Installed this amp today. At first I thought oh it's common ground outputs but u can clearly see that the shared terminal is both negative and positive I watched a YouTube video and it's explanation was verbatim it's more positive for one speaker and more negative for the other... Wait a minute if this actually works (it didn't) the speakers will be out of phase. Whatever I'll hook it up as the instructions say ( my ability to read has rarely steered me wrong)but it has turn on buzz lol the right side buzzes for 15 seconds and then nothing. Also the rca inputs, channel one is red channel two is white please wake me from this nightmare.

So I set gains using a dmm with a 0db test tone 1khz for mids and 50hz for sub on my kenwood excelon double din and I set it at 32/35. My question is am I not allowed to turn the volume past 32 now? Because I have on multiple occasions without distortion especially with quieter songs. Am I frying my equipment by doing this?

Need some help figuring out where my issue is. I believe I have a defective amplifier.

I am running 2 sky high bmx 12’s in a ported box 4.8cft tuned to 32hz at .5 ohms on a taramps big boss 5 amplifier. I have a 40ah xs power yinlong lto cell and a 320amp Js alternator. I have done big 3 and have both a positive and negative 1/0 ofc run from the from xs power agm to the rear lithium bank in parallel. I have two short ofc 1/0 runs from the lithium bank to the amplifier. I am having issues where during demos I will get one really strong drop that will last about 5 seconds then the rest of the demo it’s like the amplifier is turning itself down. I have set my gains to 50vac. Monitored for clipping which I am not. Verified 2vac at the pre out. Voltage is rock solid at 14v or higher until the amp starts to “overheat”. Lowest voltage I see during demos is 13.4. I have had multiple taramps big boss 3k and they all sound like a drone taking off when they start to get any amount of heat being generated. My big boss 5 came missing one insert for the power side hookups. One side of leds doesn’t work and it won’t spool up the fans past what sounds like idle to me even on the self check when first powered on. The amplifier gets so hot that the heat sync on top could burn your hand. I believe this is a faulty amplifier based on my knowledge of previous amps I’ve owned but what’s some input on what yall think. I’m most likely going to try and rma it. Amplifier is 1 week old. Also if anyone has the same amplifier could you create a video getting it hot bumping some power then record the fans to see how hard they are pushing. I feel like mine just aren’t spooling up enough to move any air.

So I have a 2003 Chevy Silverado. Thing is basically a damn farm truck. Middle seat don’t move at all, but I also got 2 12’s sundowns that have a depth of 6.5 inches. I need to make enough room to fit both of these fuckers in there which ain easy with it being a single cab. Has anyone ever built anything custom with these dimensions, or if there is something pre built you recommend let me know. I’m currently fucking around with cardboard trying to figure out just how I can possibly fit these. I’m okay with two separate boxes, or a whole dual enclosure. Whatever works best. Thanks yall.

Im having a hard time understanding how a port works. Im planning to run 2 sundown xv4 8in. Sorry for bad drawing

I am in the process of wiring my head unit to a rocker switch to select power input (primary and secondary battery). I purchased a 7-pin rocker switch (on-off-on) and with my voltmeter I was able to wire it to switch between the two batteries.

From the head unit I spliced the head unit power input wire to the outputs for each battery on the switch. As well as connecting the head unit ignition power to power out for the second battery.

Which means that regardless of which battery source Im using. The whole wiring system is powered. My question is wether or not this will cause passive battery drain over time or other issue. Is there a better way to set this up?

I’m trying to clean up my car audio setup because I had way too much high-frequency output and it was getting really sharp and fatiguing.
I have Kicker 3-way 6x9s front and rear. Up front, I also had dash tweeters, so basically I had tweeters everywhere. I removed the dash tweeters, and on the front Kicker KS speakers I was able to disconnect the tweeter/treble section, so now the fronts are basically acting like woofers/midrange only.
Honestly, it sounds way better now. The harshness is mostly gone.
The problem is now almost all of my treble/highs are coming from the rear Kicker CS 3-way speakers, and I don’t like the soundstage being behind me. I want the rear speakers to act more like woofer/midbass/rear fill only, then add a nice pair of silk-dome tweeters in the front so the highs are actually coming from the front.
I really don’t want to physically modify or cut anything on the rear CS speakers.
I’m running them off an amp. Would using the amp’s LPF on the rear channels be a good way to remove most of the highs, or would that make the 6x9s play too much low bass and risk damaging them since I don’t have a subwoofer?
Basically I want:
Front: woofer/midrange + silk dome tweeters
Rear: mostly woofer/midbass, little to no treble
What’s the easiest/safest way to accomplish that without modifying the rear speakers? External crossover? DSP? LPF from the amp? Something else?
The system actually sounds really good right now — I just want to move the highs from the rear to the front without bringing back the harshness.

Speakers: Morel Supremo 63 Special Edition
Front amps: Mosconi PRO 4|10 + PRO 2|10
DSP: HELIX DSP PRO MK3
Controller: HELIX Conductor
Stereo: Sony XAV-9500ES
Subs: 2× JL CLS110RG-W7AE 10W7
Sub amps: 2× JL HD750/1
Fabrication: Custom mid/tweeter A-pillars + rigid door baffles
Treatment: Full vehicle
Electrical: ~250–300A+ HO alternator target pending measurements + upgraded battery + Big 3 + 2/0 or dual 1/0 OFC main feed + fused distribution

And a custom enclosure for all 4 amps and dsp with 2 cooling fans

My Sony head unit appears to be stuck onto the body of the radio, it will swing out some but not enough to pull out to get the chassis out. Any tips or tricks beyond just pushing the button?

First of all thank you to everyone that reached out to help me with planning this out, I am going to go forward with this setup.

This is for a Infiniti Qx70 with the bose upgrade. I have not thought up how im going to get the rca from the existing amp yet, Theres a company making Harnesses called OWC but not sure which one to get. u/OWC_Upgrades If you have the chance to please let me know lol.

Using;

Speakers: 8" Mids Itek Brazil Supra series IX805s ;4

Horns: AP Audiopipe 70W APHC-4550 ;2

Tweeters: AudioPipe 3-3/4" Aluminum bullit titanium horn tweeters;2

AMP: Itek Inex 4C4500 ;1 , and 2 generic 2 channel amps from amazon

DSP : Taramps Pro 2.8s

Taramps amp MD 1800.1 ;1

Itek Audio Brazil 5001 Equalizer

5 Band in dash graphic equalizer with high output line Driver and front auxiliar input

I’m looking for advice on adding a subwoofer to the factory non Bose system in my 2023 Mazda CX 50 (small SUV).
We listen to everything from rap and electronica to pop and podcasts. I want a noticeable improvement in bass, but cargo space is important, so I’m looking for something compact that can be easily removed when needed or transferred to another vehicle later. I’m prioritizing musicality and accuracy over volume.
I’m considering these two:

• JL Audio ACS110LG TW1

• Alpine PWV SB10

Both are powered, sealed 10 inch enclosures with around 400W RMS. They seem like a good balance of size, performance, and portability. I’ve heard good things about JL’s quality, while Alpine’s DSP technology is interesting.
Has anyone used either of these? Which would you choose, and are there any other setups I should consider in this price and size range?
I’m planning to have a local shop handle the installation and my all in budget including install and wiring kit would be around $1K.

Micro Precision 3.28 MKII Tweeters

What’s the best way to go about installing 2 12 inch subs and a 5000 watt rms amplifier in my 2026 BMW m340i? I called a local car audio shop and they said that it’s difficult with bmw because it’ll give a voltage codes. I have an auxiliary battery and also a capacitor, but I don’t know how to approach this. The guy from the shop said he could install them, but the car could freak out. Anyone have any knowledge on this? Any help is greatly appreciated.

....am I supposed to remove that red thing in the oil filter?...it's for a 1998 Dodge ram 1500 with a 5.9 liter V8 360 magnum

Hey everyone, sorry if this is a repetitive post. This is my first time wiring subs and an amp.
I’ve got a Skar monoblock 1200rms @ 1ohm amp and 2 skar 10” shallow mount 500rms subs. The subs are wired down to 1 ohm (tested with a multimeter) so they should have plenty of power.

After wiring all the rest I went to test the output of the amp with a multimeter to tune the gain right. I did this with a 0db 50hz test tune with 0 gain, 0 crossover, max bass knob, max “sub” power on my headunit (which just adjusts the power of low frequencies across the whole audio system) and 80% volume. My target hz was 31 volts to match the subs max power. I was confused to see the initial reading was 0.2 volts. I kept cranking the gain to max until it reached 29 volts at max gain. I can tell this is an accurate measurement even in the sound because at half gain it measures 10 volts and it’s noticeably 1/3 as quiet as it should be.

Admittedly the headunit is a cheap Chinese headunit off Amazon. My truck is old and I am broke so I really didn’t want to spend more than $300 on a head unit. Everything else about the headunit is great including sound quality across the speakers. Is it possible it’s just not outputting enough power or is something else? Is it safe to leave it at max gain since it still doesn’t even output what I need it to?

I got a new speaker setup in 2 Front 2 Rear with 2 Tweeters and a 8 inch Sub. What would you guys recommend my HPF-Front and Rear and the LPF be at for the best sounding bass while still hearing a good amount of the music and quality in it. Thank you!

Not sure if "tech support" is the right flare.
2017 Toyota Highlander with JBL

Replaced the dash stereo with a Viabecs kit for our Toyota a couple of months back. Works great. 360 cam and steering wheel controls are all good.
Replaced the front doors with JBL Stadium GTO 930-6" X 9"

Replaced the back doors with JBL GTO 9 Series GTO629 6 1/2"

Today I got 2 pairs of Infinity Reference 3.5" REF-3032CFX

I replaced the two dash speakers already. The other pair are meant for the lift hatch (tailgate, backdoor, whatever you want to call it).

I haven't replaced the amp, and I was trying to avoid it, at least for the time being. Money is really tight and our son starts university in a couple of weeks. However, I do know that the JBL amp is hard coded with their DSP settings, so the doors are not getting full signals, which is really killing the performance of the great door speakers.
It also seems like the JBL amp might behave like a 5.1 home stereo system where it sends the vocals to the center dash speaker. I had disconnected it thinking that it wouldn't be needed with all the other speakers being much better than the stock ones. But with it missing the vocals now seem flat. So, now I'm wondering if I should skip upgrading the back hatch ones in and use one from the remaining pair for the center channel, upgrade the back hatch ones and put the original center back in, or try to figure out something else.
Car audio is new to me. I'm very familiar with home A/V though.

Hello CarAV! I have a question about a potential use of alubutyl, and I figured this sub probably has one of the highest concentrations of people who are familiar with handling alubutyl.

Here's the situation: We just moved into a new rental flat that has its own ventilation system. The box with the fans (air handling unit?) looks something like this: https://www.systemair.com/en/products/residential-ventilation-systems/air-handling-units/save

It's not that loud, but it has a definite electric hum and is located on the wall just outside the bedroom. It can clearly be heard when trying to sleep. It seems to be the vibrations of the fans inside the box coming out through the metal walls of the box and into the air.

I've been researching possible sound dampening methods to decrease the noise. (I know we can't get it 100% quiet because some sound will always transfer through where it's joined to the wall/ceiling). I picked up a very cheap and thin bitumen/asphalt sheet that was in the car section of the hardware store, and tried sticking it to two sides of the ventilation box. I think it helped a tiny bit, but didn't make that much of a difference.

What I've been looking at lately is alubutyl panels for vibration reduction. Theoretically, this should work, right? There are two issues with this, and I've got questions about both:

1. The butyl sticks tightly to metal and is difficult to remove. Any soundproofing solution should be reversible as we are renting. Would it work if I put a laminate film type thing directly on the ventilation box, and then stuck the butyl to the film? Then I could pull the laminate film off without having the butyl stuck to the metal directly. Would this interfere with the vibration reducing effect of the butyl?

2. The edges of the aluminum in the alubutyl are apparently quite sharp. This ventilation box is located in a closet, so we don't want sharp edges to get stuck on clothing. Has anyone had experience putting alubutyl on an exposed surface / any tips on managing the sharp edges?

I'm aware this isn't really about cars or AV systems, but I didn't know where else to inquire. I'm hoping someone with relevant knowledge would be able to advise! Thank you! :)

I’m looking at installing a Kenwood DMX8710s and I’m trying to determine which route to take. I have a 2012 4Runner, and I’d like to keep my basic steering wheel functions

Do I Order everything from Crutchfield and self install with the Maestro RR2.

Or go to Best Buy and do an install. It looks to come out cheaper but doesn’t include the Maestro in their parts list. The website seems to claim it will work with full functionality.

Is BestBuy using an alternative to the Maestro, or are the steering controls likely not going to work? Obviously this is a question for them, but if anyone else has BB installs what has been the experience regarding Maestros and steering wheel functions.

Better to self install or bother with BB?

My system is 2 jl jd amps. A 4 channel 400 and mono 500 along with a fix 86. This is in a 2017 f150. The whole system will randomly lose power and then come back on at random times. Nothing is going into protect mode. When I loosen the power wire at the distribution block and retighten the system comes back on and may stay on for 30 minutes or 2 minutes but eventually goes off again and will randomly come back on hours later. Any suggestions? I’ve check voltage and such and the numbers seem good which is why I’m very puzzled.

Hi everyone.

I recently replaced the HK amp of my F33 2017 bmw 440i convertible for one from a 2016 328i wagon but with the same exact identification numbers and everything. The first one got water damaged and wouldn't properly connect to the car. Even connected, I would have no audio, infotainment, or anything really related to the amp itself. Now with the replaced one, everything but the audio came back. Ran it for codes and Bimmercode said the amp just needed to get coded in. I took it to a guy that was recommended to me and he tried coding it but it didn't work as it should've. Everything was still the way it was before where everything except the audio worked. He suggested that it could be that the amp isn't able to send a signal to the head unit and suggested getting that replaced (and installed + coded through them of course) too. I ran it for codes through Bimmercode again shortly after I left their shop and cleared a number of errors that were not there before the guy tried coding in the new amp. Not trying to blame the guy, especially since the codes all cleared and last I checked there wasn't any faults after clearing them all, yet still, everything except the audio works. Not suggesting that they're trying to fleece me, but through them I was given the contact to another guy that has head units available. The head unit he linked me is oem from a 2018 bmw m550i xdrive. The listing states it is for g12/g30 navigation headunit radio audio cd head unit hu evo hw 3.2. I brought up that mine is a f series 2017 and he said its no issue and that it'll work, though a quick google search told me otherwise. What are my options here? How do i go about fixing the audio and having a fully functioning HK amp again?

Thank you in advance!

Bought this ugly S10 mini truck with walk through & snugtop a few months back and started with the system build. It will be LS Swapped with a 80e trans, painted white and old school ARE 3 spokes over the winter. All new Orion XTR gear with a Pioneer deck. Had a company called EZ DB’s design the box and it went together great. Highly recommended this service as everything was done quickly and precise. No DSP’s as of now but the goal was to play old school rap at 150db’s. Just reliving some of my youth with this new project and excited to see how it comes out. Digging the splatter paint!

To my southeast Michigan people, where do you take your car to have a audio system installed?