Bought this ugly S10 mini truck with walk through & snugtop a few months back and started with the system build. It will be LS Swapped with a 80e trans, painted white and old school ARE 3 spokes over the winter. All new Orion XTR gear with a Pioneer deck. Had a company called EZ DB’s design the box and it went together great. Highly recommended this service as everything was done quickly and precise. No DSP’s as of now but the goal was to play old school rap at 150db’s. Just reliving some of my youth with this new project and excited to see how it comes out. Digging the splatter paint!

Hey guys, I bought a classic truck. Want to put a stereo system in, I don’t need huge base or a sub, just
Looking for something that plays good quality sound.

I am Canadian so my choices may be more limited. Preferably just some stuff I can buy off Amazon. I’ve attached a pic of the interior so you can see what I’m working with. Not looking to drill holes in anything so thinking of some speakers under the seat or dash? I think the smaller the speakers the better

I appreciate you’re help :)

Looking to upgrade the front speakers in my 2006 Civic. I already have two 10” subs handling the bass.

I want 6.5s + tweeters that can get really loud while staying clean, crisp, and detailed, especially with the windows down. I have an 8-channel DSP and plan on getting a 4-channel amp. Budget is around $250–600 for the speakers/tweeters.

What would you guys recommend?

Hey everyone, sorry if this is a repetitive post. This is my first time wiring subs and an amp.
I’ve got a Skar monoblock 1200rms @ 1ohm amp and 2 skar 10” shallow mount 500rms subs. The subs are wired down to 1 ohm (tested with a multimeter) so they should have plenty of power.

After wiring all the rest I went to test the output of the amp with a multimeter to tune the gain right. I did this with a 0db 50hz test tune with 0 gain, 0 crossover, max bass knob, max “sub” power on my headunit (which just adjusts the power of low frequencies across the whole audio system) and 80% volume. My target hz was 31 volts to match the subs max power. I was confused to see the initial reading was 0.2 volts. I kept cranking the gain to max until it reached 29 volts at max gain. I can tell this is an accurate measurement even in the sound because at half gain it measures 10 volts and it’s noticeably 1/3 as quiet as it should be.

Admittedly the headunit is a cheap Chinese headunit off Amazon. My truck is old and I am broke so I really didn’t want to spend more than $300 on a head unit. Everything else about the headunit is great including sound quality across the speakers. Is it possible it’s just not outputting enough power or is something else? Is it safe to leave it at max gain since it still doesn’t even output what I need it to?

I’m looking at installing a Kenwood DMX8710s and I’m trying to determine which route to take. I have a 2012 4Runner, and I’d like to keep my basic steering wheel functions

Do I Order everything from Crutchfield and self install with the Maestro RR2.

Or go to Best Buy and do an install. It looks to come out cheaper but doesn’t include the Maestro in their parts list. The website seems to claim it will work with full functionality.

Is BestBuy using an alternative to the Maestro, or are the steering controls likely not going to work? Obviously this is a question for them, but if anyone else has BB installs what has been the experience regarding Maestros and steering wheel functions.

Better to self install or bother with BB?

I’m looking for advice on adding a subwoofer to the factory non Bose system in my 2023 Mazda CX 50 (small SUV).
We listen to everything from rap and electronica to pop and podcasts. I want a noticeable improvement in bass, but cargo space is important, so I’m looking for something compact that can be easily removed when needed or transferred to another vehicle later. I’m prioritizing musicality and accuracy over volume.
I’m considering these two:

• JL Audio ACS110LG TW1

• Alpine PWV SB10

Both are powered, sealed 10 inch enclosures with around 400W RMS. They seem like a good balance of size, performance, and portability. I’ve heard good things about JL’s quality, while Alpine’s DSP technology is interesting.
Has anyone used either of these? Which would you choose, and are there any other setups I should consider in this price and size range?
I’m planning to have a local shop handle the installation and my all in budget including install and wiring kit would be around $1K.

What’s the best way to go about installing 2 12 inch subs and a 5000 watt rms amplifier in my 2026 BMW m340i? I called a local car audio shop and they said that it’s difficult with bmw because it’ll give a voltage codes. I have an auxiliary battery and also a capacitor, but I don’t know how to approach this. The guy from the shop said he could install them, but the car could freak out. Anyone have any knowledge on this? Any help is greatly appreciated.

Hi everyone, I’m looking for some overall thoughts on this build. I am just getting into car audio systems and I’ve tried my best to piece this system together, but I’m open to any advice/improvements. I have included a wiring diagram/list of equipment in an image that summarizes my entire build.

Some Background:
- This is going in a 2004 Silverado crew cab that came with the factory Bose system and steering wheel controls. I am planning on completely ignoring that system, running all new wires, replacing factory speaker locations, adding new speaker locations, but keeping factory steering wheel controls.
- I have a previously installed Alpine iLX-W650 head unit that I’m planning on using.
- I frequently have rear passengers so I would prefer a little more than “rear fill.” I also prefer an encompassing sound experience over a traditional front stage system, but im not really too picky on that.
- Not a huge Bass head and I don’t need a super loud bass.
- Around $1000-$1200 budget

Equipment:
- Front speakers (80W): Focal 165AS3, 6.5” 3 way component set (~$330). I like the idea of a 3 way set as an upgrade to the factory woofer/tweeter combo, and these were the best deal I can find for a not so insane price. These have passive crossovers.
- Rear speakers (80W): Alpine S2S65c, 6.5” component set with in line tweeter crossover (~$120). Factory speakers used single door speakers but I would like to use a component set and mount a tweeter somewhere in the rear pillars, location TBD for now. I chose these because they seemed good enough for the rear passengers, ok price, and established brand.
- Subwoofer (100W): I’m not super huge on bass so I went with a powered subwoofer to save me some time/money/planning. I’m using the JBL Bass Pro Nano (~$230). This is a smaller sub at only 6” and 100W but I’ve heard good things about it. IF I feel like there is not enough Bass or that it’s not keeping up with my other upgrades, I’ll upgrade by either buying another powered sub or maybe building my own box in the future.
- Amp: I chose the AudioControl EPICFOUR, 4 channel, class D amp (~$200) to power my front and rear speakers. This one seems like a decent one for the price, and close enough in power to my speakers (100W RMS x 4 @ 4 ohm)
- Wiring: I plan on using OFC for everything. I’ve listed wire and fuse sizes on my diagram. I’m not sure if I should use a 60A or 100A main fuse. And I heard the general rule for wire sizes seems to be size up when in doubt?? I might size up a coupe 8 gauge runs to 4 gauge but other than that, 16 gauge for speakers, 4/8 gauge for everything else. My factory alternator is 105A but I don’t think I NEED any electrical upgrades…although I’ll likely do a “Big 3” upgrade regardless. Does anyone know rough costs for wiring? (Including terminals/fuses/distribution packs/etc)
- Other: I’ll be buying a CRUX or PAC module of sorts to retain my factory chimes and steering wheel controls, not really relevant for this discussion but its cost will be factored in to my overall budget (~$100). The math for calculating current is following @CarAudioFacrication on YouTube. And yes I’ll be using sound deadening.

And that’s it! I hope this build isn’t completely horrendous. Let me know your thoughts on my equipment pairing, compatibility, wiring, and anything else deemed necessary to flame my choices.

Picked this amp and sub up for $200 on OfferUp today, but I've got some questions.

1. Was this a good deal? The Sub is a JL audio w1 at 4 ohms 300w rms, and the amplifier is a Kenwood KAC-511 Class D

2. What would be a good wiring kit for this? I have a Kenwood DMX809S that I plan on hooking this up to, and I'm not sure if I need anything specific in a kit, as I see so many different kits claiming to be universal, but some will have 1-2 different things in them.

3. What are your aftermarket bass knob recommendations, if it matters, or can I just use one from Amazon?

So I have a 2003 Chevy Silverado. Thing is basically a damn farm truck. Middle seat don’t move at all, but I also got 2 12’s sundowns that have a depth of 6.5 inches. I need to make enough room to fit both of these fuckers in there which ain easy with it being a single cab. Has anyone ever built anything custom with these dimensions, or if there is something pre built you recommend let me know. I’m currently fucking around with cardboard trying to figure out just how I can possibly fit these. I’m okay with two separate boxes, or a whole dual enclosure. Whatever works best. Thanks yall.

Speakers: Morel Supremo 63 Special Edition
Front amps: Mosconi PRO 4|10 + PRO 2|10
DSP: HELIX DSP PRO MK3
Controller: HELIX Conductor
Stereo: Sony XAV-9500ES
Subs: 2× JL CLS110RG-W7AE 10W7
Sub amps: 2× JL HD750/1
Fabrication: Custom mid/tweeter A-pillars + rigid door baffles
Treatment: Full vehicle
Electrical: ~250–300A+ HO alternator target pending measurements + upgraded battery + Big 3 + 2/0 or dual 1/0 OFC main feed + fused distribution

And a custom enclosure for all 4 amps and dsp with 2 cooling fans

My Sony head unit appears to be stuck onto the body of the radio, it will swing out some but not enough to pull out to get the chassis out. Any tips or tricks beyond just pushing the button?

I was playing some music and it was on 19 and front speakers stopped for a second I turned it down to 16 and did it once and then down to 14 and it stopped. What would cause?

I purchased a Kenwood KSC-PSW88 and didn't realise that it didn't come with a wiring kit and only had the harness pictured. I have an aftermarket headunit so will be using method 1 to wire it up.

ChatGPT mentioned I could buy an amp wiring kit something like the Aerpro MX28 and replacing the included 60A fuse with a 25A one. But before I go buying a kit I'd thought to see what the experts would recommend.

The issue is that the kit uses 8AWG wiring for the power and ground but the wiring harness is only 12AWG.

Would it work if I use step-down connectors or would that be a fire hazard and should I just run 12AWG wire along with an inline fuse from the harness to the battery?

My friend and I have a small project for his car that involves installing the Kenwood X3001-4 amplifier to power a pair of Alpine R Series 6.5" 2-way coaxial speakers. We’ve already bought the Aerpro BSX208 8GA amp wiring kit specifically for this install.

The planned set up:
Kenwood X3001-4 Compact D-Class 4 Channel Amplifier
Alpine R Series 6.5" 2-Way Coaxial Speakers 300W
Aerpro Bassix 8GA 2 Channel Amp Install Kit - BSX208

My only concern is that after seeing so much discussion online about CCA power cable compared with OFC, I’m starting to hesitate about using the kit.

He isn't planning on upgrading the system after this project, so would the 8GA CCA cable in this kit be perfectly fine for this amplifier, or would it be worth replacing it with an OFC kit instead?

Just wondering whether there would actually be any meaningful benefit to going OFC for a setup like this, or if the CCA kit is adequate for the power the amp will be drawing. Any advice would be much appreciated, thanks.

Hello r/CarAV! I will soon be attempting my first try at upgrading a car AV system. Some family members bought a 2008 Buick Enclave that they want navigation and backup camera on. They're well in age, so an easy to use system is ideal. I am just looking for feedback on my selections so far and any improvements you might make! Thanks so much in advance.

Edit: Sony XAV-AX4000 paired with a Boyo VTL17IRTJ

have a pair of Kicker KSC69304 6x9 3-way speakers running off an amp with the included Kicker crossovers.
I’m trying to figure out if there’s a way to disable just the tweeter/high-frequency section because they’re a little too harsh for my setup. The crossover connects to the speaker using three separate terminals.
I tried disconnecting the terminal that sits at the top of the speaker because I assumed that was the tweeter connection. When I disconnected it, though, the entire speaker stopped playing. As soon as I plugged it back in, everything started working normally again.
I didn’t try disconnecting either of the other two terminals because I assumed those were the main positive and negative and didn’t want to mess anything up.
Does anyone know exactly what each of the three terminals on the KSC69304 does? Is one specifically for the tweeter that I can leave disconnected while still running the 6x9 woofer/midrange through the factory crossover? Or do all three terminals have to be connected for the speaker to work?
Trying to keep the crossover installed and do this safely rather than just bypassing it.

Need some help figuring out where my issue is. I believe I have a defective amplifier.

I am running 2 sky high bmx 12’s in a ported box 4.8cft tuned to 32hz at .5 ohms on a taramps big boss 5 amplifier. I have a 40ah xs power yinlong lto cell and a 320amp Js alternator. I have done big 3 and have both a positive and negative 1/0 ofc run from the from xs power agm to the rear lithium bank in parallel. I have two short ofc 1/0 runs from the lithium bank to the amplifier. I am having issues where during demos I will get one really strong drop that will last about 5 seconds then the rest of the demo it’s like the amplifier is turning itself down. I have set my gains to 50vac. Monitored for clipping which I am not. Verified 2vac at the pre out. Voltage is rock solid at 14v or higher until the amp starts to “overheat”. Lowest voltage I see during demos is 13.4. I have had multiple taramps big boss 3k and they all sound like a drone taking off when they start to get any amount of heat being generated. My big boss 5 came missing one insert for the power side hookups. One side of leds doesn’t work and it won’t spool up the fans past what sounds like idle to me even on the self check when first powered on. The amplifier gets so hot that the heat sync on top could burn your hand. I believe this is a faulty amplifier based on my knowledge of previous amps I’ve owned but what’s some input on what yall think. I’m most likely going to try and rma it. Amplifier is 1 week old. Also if anyone has the same amplifier could you create a video getting it hot bumping some power then record the fans to see how hard they are pushing. I feel like mine just aren’t spooling up enough to move any air.

Im having a hard time understanding how a port works. Im planning to run 2 sundown xv4 8in. Sorry for bad drawing

I am in the process of wiring my head unit to a rocker switch to select power input (primary and secondary battery). I purchased a 7-pin rocker switch (on-off-on) and with my voltmeter I was able to wire it to switch between the two batteries.

From the head unit I spliced the head unit power input wire to the outputs for each battery on the switch. As well as connecting the head unit ignition power to power out for the second battery.

Which means that regardless of which battery source Im using. The whole wiring system is powered. My question is wether or not this will cause passive battery drain over time or other issue. Is there a better way to set this up?

I’m trying to clean up my car audio setup because I had way too much high-frequency output and it was getting really sharp and fatiguing.
I have Kicker 3-way 6x9s front and rear. Up front, I also had dash tweeters, so basically I had tweeters everywhere. I removed the dash tweeters, and on the front Kicker KS speakers I was able to disconnect the tweeter/treble section, so now the fronts are basically acting like woofers/midrange only.
Honestly, it sounds way better now. The harshness is mostly gone.
The problem is now almost all of my treble/highs are coming from the rear Kicker CS 3-way speakers, and I don’t like the soundstage being behind me. I want the rear speakers to act more like woofer/midbass/rear fill only, then add a nice pair of silk-dome tweeters in the front so the highs are actually coming from the front.
I really don’t want to physically modify or cut anything on the rear CS speakers.
I’m running them off an amp. Would using the amp’s LPF on the rear channels be a good way to remove most of the highs, or would that make the 6x9s play too much low bass and risk damaging them since I don’t have a subwoofer?
Basically I want:
Front: woofer/midrange + silk dome tweeters
Rear: mostly woofer/midbass, little to no treble
What’s the easiest/safest way to accomplish that without modifying the rear speakers? External crossover? DSP? LPF from the amp? Something else?
The system actually sounds really good right now — I just want to move the highs from the rear to the front without bringing back the harshness.

First of all thank you to everyone that reached out to help me with planning this out, I am going to go forward with this setup.

This is for a Infiniti Qx70 with the bose upgrade. I have not thought up how im going to get the rca from the existing amp yet, Theres a company making Harnesses called OWC but not sure which one to get. u/OWC_Upgrades If you have the chance to please let me know lol.

Using;

Speakers: 8" Mids Itek Brazil Supra series IX805s ;4

Horns: AP Audiopipe 70W APHC-4550 ;2

Tweeters: AudioPipe 3-3/4" Aluminum bullit titanium horn tweeters;2

AMP: Itek Inex 4C4500 ;1 , and 2 generic 2 channel amps from amazon

DSP : Taramps Pro 2.8s

Taramps amp MD 1800.1 ;1

Itek Audio Brazil 5001 Equalizer

5 Band in dash graphic equalizer with high output line Driver and front auxiliar input

I got a new speaker setup in 2 Front 2 Rear with 2 Tweeters and a 8 inch Sub. What would you guys recommend my HPF-Front and Rear and the LPF be at for the best sounding bass while still hearing a good amount of the music and quality in it. Thank you!