So quick context, my father lost his battle with cancer last year after a 14 month fight. Him and I bonded over cars when I was super young and it’s been something that had always been a stronghold of our relationship. He bought a 2016 BRZ brand new in 2015 and took exceptional care of it. He even went as far as paying Subaru to pull the engine out of the car in 2024 to replace the clutch,throwout bearing, and cam seals as a preventative measure. He was just incredibly OCD.

In January 2025, him and I underwent the task of installing a Jackson racing supercharger and Jackson racing oil cooler. We mainly did it as a good distractor from his cancer treatment at the time. We finished the build but unfortunately he passed two months later.

Fast-forward to last week and the car was picked up by the public administrator here in the state of Kentucky. It’s a long drawn out story but basically his Will was invalidated because it had the wrong number of signatures and so the car must be sold since no one can technically claim it. He had gifted it to me in his Will, but unfortunately, since the will is invalid, I don’t get to keep it.

I say all of this to let the community know at large, that if you’re looking for an incredibly well-maintained and clean 2016 BRZ that has been supercharged, it will likely be for sale soon. I have no idea if it will go to auction or if it will go to a dealer but it’s here in Louisville, KY.

Hopefully one of you who puts as much time and care into your cars as my dad and myself did can give it a home. And also remember, cars are something that can bond us together even in the darkest of times. Cheers

It’s far from perfect but it was in my price range and 10 minutes from my house so I went for it. First on the list is a new clutch, then I’ll start dealing with the cosmetic issues.

Glad to be part of the club!

- inozetek color ppf
-Enjuku racing front bash bar
-Perrin intake
-custom 4” titanium tip exhaust
-Darwin pro carbon nrs wing
-kensai KNP wheels
-Michelin pilot sport 4s

What size should I buy ?

215/45R17 - 205/50R17. Or something else ?

I got a 2020 Toyota 86 and it’s almost time for a brake pad change. Right now I’m looking a little more into rotors and not sure whether to go for slotted drilled or both. I daily drive my car but I also drive canyons a lot. I’ve had an issue where my brakes overheat on downhill runs and my car doesn’t wanna stop and I want to avoid that in the future.

Any good budget friendly recs?

Hi everyone!

I recently bought a 2014 Subaru BRZ. I live in Europe and my car is a US-spec model, so I’d like to change the units on the instrument cluster from Fahrenheit to Celsius, MPG to L/100 km, and miles to kilometers.

Does anyone know how this can be done? I’ve searched all over the internet but haven’t been able to find any clear information about it. I know there are people who can reprogram or modify the cluster to do this, so I’m wondering if anyone here knows how it’s done or what kind of equipment/software is required.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

2jz swap is complete. Built everything from scratch, all work completed in house by me. Will update again with hp numbers when I make it to the dyno! It feels great. No noticeable weight change since I pushed the engine so far back. Full chassis functionality, including cluster/abs/tac/speedo, AC (once I have lines built), etc. Doesn’t even have a check engine light.

Today I went into the same Subaru dealership I bought my 2017 at 9 years ago and they were happy to order a new vehicle for me. The only issue is in the ts options. The ts only comes with a blue on black interior. I wanted to order another red car with a red and black interior, which is the interior that comes standard in the BRZ premium. The premium only comes as an automatic and you can’t get the upgraded brakes or suspension, those are only on the ts. Even the fantastic sales person could not find a work around. I went down the road to Toyota, but they can’t order a GR86 at all as they are only available as allocations. However Toyota offers the vehicle with any combination of options. Toyota also wants you to put a deposit down to be on a wishlist for allocations they may, or may not have the options you want. I am kinda of stuck looking for a used car or settling with a blue car (or any other color). It’s kinda crazy there is no work around for this when I am willing to pay for a new car. Anyone have any advice or found a workaround?

Last Saturday I had finally opportunity to visit Autodrom Jastrząb and complete some laps in my 2013 FR-S. Wow, that was amazing!

My pace was nowhere, but that was first outing, I was focused on keeping car in temps as I recently did engine rebuild and didn't wanted to destroy it on first outing.

Did total of 6 sessions, first 2 were wet and TC was constantly kicking in, then the track dried and I started getting use car more and more (still a lot to improve from my side to make myself more reliable and be more consistent on the track), but yeah, it was unforgettable experience.

Even though times were nowhere comparing to competition, I feel like I did amazing progress.

Mods to do after session as I learned:
- Oil cooler (definitely, Motul 5W30 was getting to 125 degs after 2 laps)
- Better brake pads (had some no-brand when I bought it, finally used them to max)
- Braided brake lines

When I learn how to drive it quicker, most likely suspension, semi-slick and WRX brakes will kick in to further improve.

Trying to find out whether I should install some brake ducts or not.

This is what my front rotors look like after a few trackday sessions. I run PBS Pro race pads (not popular, but they are good dedicated track pads, maybe comparable to Ferodo DS1.1) + OEM rotors. For the street, I swap to street pads.

I always do cooldown laps, and normally I dont notice brake fading. I think that before it happens the tyre and the oil are already overheated, (even though I run a 13 row oil cooler, tyre is worn Federal 595 semi-slick). But I am concerned the "white" spots on the rotor. Not sure if I should consider brake ducts at this point, or if it is fine this way. I barely do 2-3 trackdays per year (2h long) and I want the car to be fully usable on street (not daily driven though)

just installed the hks hi power spec L and i’m looking to get some headers to pair with it. i’m leaning more towards ELs but it wouldn’t be a deal breaker to get some UELs. i looked into tomeis since they’re a house name (prolly for good reasons) but im pretty sure they’re discontinued now. any other recs?

I'm having an issue (more like an annoyance) in which every time I close the door or roll the window all the way up where the window hugs the seal (the one on top, on the car's body, the one that makes it be water tight) it makes a loud squeaking noise, like it's pressing wrong or too hard.

I've checked the seal to see if it was placed correctly and it is. It's a 2012 so maybe the rubber has gone bad? It doesn't feel too stiff compared to the passenger side which makes no noise. I've fixed it before by hydrating the rubber but it only lasts a couple of days.

My other guess is maybe the window mechanism isnt calibrated correctly and perhaps it presses too far up because the squeak continues even when the window is already all the way up (I don't know if that's even possible)

Any light on this subject would be of great help. I bought the car a month ago and it came like this

I got a 2013 frs and I’m planning on putting on some decent breaks after the ones I have rn wear out cause the stock ones are surprisingly mid for a car that weighs 2800lbs. What break fluid and pads and rotors do ppl recommend for backroads driving but also decent for daily driving

Hey everyone, I have a 2015 Scion FR-S manual. I recently installed Tomei UEL catless headers and already have a catback exhaust. A few days after installing the headers, I got a CEL. I do have an O2 sensor spacer installed on the Tomei header, but the CEL still came on.

I’m considering getting an EcuTek tune and had a few questions:

Will an EcuTek tune take care of the CEL caused by the catless header?

Will the tune properly optimize the car for the Tomei UEL header and catback setup?

What kind of performance/drivability improvements should I expect from the tune?

Are features like auto rev matching with EcuTek any good?

Are there any other EcuTek features worth getting while I’m having the car tuned?

Would appreciate hearing from anyone running a similar Tomei UEL + EcuTek setup. Thanks!

They're fully decatted, no resonators, but I can't figure out where they are from. Does anybody know?

I just got a 2013 FRS and am in need of some new ideas. Im not too familiar with setups as ive rocked all stock cars in the past but this time i wanna make it an actual project car.

The build I wanna go for is sporty and outgoing but still practical. No widebody kit either. I dont want to gain looks only to lose practicality for everyday use.

All I really want is a nice front bumper/rear bumper. (whether its a full assembly or just lips/diffusers) Some side skirts and a wing that isnt super ricey.

Not too sure on wheel setups/sizes either but I do know that I wanna have the best fitment possible with a non-widebody build.

Anyone got any tips or recommendations? Please let me know!

Idk why my fitment bothers me so much but I’m on the 17 stocks and I just got my 20 mm spacers on up front and was planning on 25’s in the rear but I feel like the front still looks bad and would be better with 25’s. But then idk if I should go 30 mm in the rear

I've been refreshing my interior recently. I'm not crazy about the chrome accents. The only aftermarket hand brake buttons I could find are oversized drift buttons. I tried one, really didnt like how it felt, and was wondering if there were any other more basic options other than OEM chrome. I wouldn't even mind if there was at least a smaller drift button either, just can't seem to find anything that looks promising