Picked up a dream car of mine yesterday. Drive it two hours home n had zero issues

Was there some secret stash of parts GM decided to release? Earlier, I saw the LS3 could be ordered from Jegs with a September 14th shipping date. I punched in my card information and hit order before noticing the LS9 block had the same status. My card hasn’t been charged yet but I did call to confirm if my order went through online and to cancel the LS3. Customer service said the vendor side shows a shipping date of September 16th. I have an invoice and order number for the LS9 block. I guess we’ll see what happens

Alright everybody, so I’m here for some advice, not a bunch of s*** talking, or telling me what i already know which is that I’ve gotten way over my head, just productive advice. I’m new to engine building and I wanted to force myself to rebuild my motor so I can learn what it involves and what goes into the 5.3. I’m 32/M who’s been a welder for 11 years and love learning about anything mechanical. I’ll start by saying this… last year I did a bunch of work to my motor. I had no oil pressure and a bunch of small leaks, so I changed my oil pan gasket, my rear main seal, valve cover gaskets, the timing cover, <<<—- its gasket of course, the front seal, the gasket around the rear main cover, the oil pickup tube o ring, the oil pump (replaced with high flow), the water pump, and obviously put all new fluids in it and a new serpentine belt as well as radiator hoses. After doing all of that the truck ran flawlessly for about a year and a half. Then one day back in like May of this year, I went to change my oil and saw cream under the cap which told me the head gasket was probably shot because all the other seals were strong and I never replaced it so I figured it was the weak point and eventually starting leaking coolant into the oil. So, I decided it was time to replace head gaskets, exhaust gaskets, intake manifold gasket. Well, me being extra, I figured it would be easier to do all this work with the motor pulled out and I also wanted to re-loom all the electrical wires because almost all of them were exposed due to the old loom cracking and falling off as well as clean anything I can, maybe paint the block, etc. So now I’ve got the motor pulled out of it and I’ll post pictures of everything that I can and I’m reaching out to the world to just ask yall what all yall suggest I do to it while I’ve got it out. So far I’ve taken the heads to the machine shop and got them resurfaced but that’s about it. I’m sorta on a budget but at the same time I don’t want to skip anything I should go ahead and replace or clean so if I’ve gotta have my truck out of commision a little longer in order to have it done up correctly that’s not an issue, however I’m not building a race motor and don’t want to do more than I need to either. Another thing I want to add is that when I went to get a tune done, I was told that it was already tuned and DOD AFM was turned off/removed (praise God) and when I pulled the lifters they weren’t the ones with springs on them which I was told meant they were aftermarket for the delete so I’m assuming that means the cam is aftermarket as well? I’ll post a pic of one of the lifters I pulled out of it. I checked all of those and only one had a scar line but it was so light and I couldn’t grab it with a fingernail which I was told meant it’s fine. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. And for the record I’m keeping it completely covered anytime I’m not working on it. I’m very aware that you have to keep it as clean as possible.

I have the option to straight trade my current car (worth 5.5k) for a 2000 v6 Chevrolet Camaro 5 speed manual. I also am in possession of an ls2 engine with t56 6 speed trans. I’m wondering if it’s a good idea to go for this swap as a first time and if it’s worth it?
I’d have access to a shop with almost everything I need I think, and am prepared to spend what I need although I would like to keep it as cheap as possible while not cutting corners. So keeping it safe and reliable. I also loves doing my last build (didint swap an engine though) so I’m excited to actually be the one to build it and so idc that I can go buy one already with an Ls. Also that’s not an option here anyway.
The car currently has had a lot of work done to including fully aftermarket break system and is in great condition body and mechanical wise, it does have 220k miles though.

So really two questions. 1. Is it worth it to drop money into this swap if I should even attempt it as a first engine swap?
And 2. What am I looking at price range to do this considering I do almost to all the work myself and spend no money on the car, engine, trans, and some other little things that come with those two (air and electrical systems)

I have a 04 ford ext cad 2wd and I was wondering if I should ls swap it and if I do how hard would it be? What advice would you guys give?

New to me project. Bought it knowing it had engine issues, and I’m trying to decide whether this motor is worth tearing down and rebuilding or if I’m better off sourcing another L92 and starting there.

What I know so far:
Significant oil leak / was very low on oil
Has a noticeable tick, possibly a mild knock
Was getting Reduced Engine Power pulling it off the trailer
Throttle would occasionally go dead while moving it, but would come back after shifting to Park and then back into gear
Also getting Service Stabilitrak
Battery is from 2022 and was weak enough that the previous owner had to jump it before I arrived, so I’m also wondering how much low voltage may be contributing to the electronic issues
Truck still runs and moves under its own power
I haven’t torn into the engine yet
My current plan is to get the electrical/voltage side healthy, check oil pressure, cut the filter open, pull the valve covers, inspect the valvetrain, and then potentially drop the pan before deciding anything.

For those familiar with high-mile L92s: at 255k, would you tear this one down and inspect/rebuild it, or just plan on replacing it with another L92?
If I open it up, what specifically would you be checking before deciding the block/crank are worth saving? Bearings, cam/lifters, rocker trunnions, oil pump pickup O-ring, timing set, cylinder condition, etc.?

Not looking to blindly throw parts at it. I’d rather diagnose what actually failed, learn the engine, and then make the rebuild-vs-swap decision based on what I find.

Will swap a 2020 silverado l82 in a 2014 gmc sierra.

Title correction, ...does L82 "HAVE" provision...

I want to swap her 350 for a 6.0 where do I start

Hello Reddit mechanics. I’m having an issue with my pushrods I dropped some 7.400 in my LS build but due to the new cam and heads those are too short. We fit a .045 feeler gauge underneath the rocker and above the pushrod which tells me that we need 7.445-7.450 pushrods. However I would imagine this does not include the necessary .06 - .08 of preload on the lifters. Should I stick with a 7.450 or do I need to hop up to the 7.475?

A friend of mine that collects stuff was moving so I bought everything he had that was GM related. One of the things I got was this. LS7 block with the billet main caps (not pictured), but nothing else. Is there actually a market for this thing? Bare blocks from GM were like $4000 when they were being produced, but LS7’s seem to be seldomly sold and traded so it’s hard to pin down a value. I also have the stock cam and a few other bits. No rotating assembly or heads, other than a set of 2.20 titanium intake valves.

Turbo 5.3 that revs to 7k. Looking for recommendations that is not just the holley high ram. I know the high ram or the lxr fast would make the most power but I'm not cutting the hood. I do like the look of no hood though to be honest.

 The PE Enable Min MAP 130 kPa finding lands around 7:33 to 8:31

Tim sent in a data log on his LQ4 6.0 Silverado and said the truck felt flat up top. Uploaded the CSV to StreetTunedAI and the report caught it in under a minute: PE Enable Min MAP was set to 130 kPa on a naturally aspirated 1-bar setup. Power Enrichment was commanded in the tune but could never actually activate because manifold pressure never gets that high on an NA motor. Truck was running lean under WOT and nobody had spotted it.

This is what StreetTunedAI does. You upload your HP Tuners log, the tool runs pre-flight checks on your channels first, then walks you through what it sees: fuel trims, MAF Hz correction, knock and spark, WOT and PE, airflow and load, torque management, and a first edit path. If a channel is missing (no wideband, no fuel pressure), it tells you and refuses to guess. No made-up numbers.

Built by a tuner, for tuners and DIY guys who are tired of getting talked down to in forums. Try it free this weekend. 3 reviews or 36 hours, whichever comes first. No card required .portal

Tearing down my new iron block for a build and find this. Big sad. Boat anchor time? 😪

I just got what I thought to be an LQ4 from the junkyard last week and Im finally getting to revealing everything and I noticed 2 weird things; it seems to have Gen 4 rods and provisions for a timing chain damper . What gives ? Came out of a 2002 GMC Sierra

My power steering went out two weeks so I ordered a new pump and bought a new belt. Replaced everything and I put the new belt on. Good news is I have steering again, yay. Bad news is every time I crank the belt shifts out of alignment. Anyone run into this before? Is it poor placement of the belt? I tried the old belt thinking because its “worn” it’ll stay in its place but it does the same thing. Side note New idler pulley as of last year

Can someone point me in the right direction in how to connect these bundles of wires. BP Automotive did a great job labeling but I don't understand if I need to make the connection or if I'm missing a harness. The plug and play part of the harness is easy I'm at the next steps.
Do I have to make the connections? Lights, fuel pump, starter, fan, dash, ignition. Anyway currently I'm doing the work myself the directions are kinda vague. Thanks in advance.

Hi guys, I've started an LS2 swap on my S14 with a CD009 and a Sikky swap kit. The only problem is that the CD doesn't fit in the tunnel. Has anyone used it and can tell me how to modify the tunnel? Thanks.

Can’t check for oil pressure. Don’t have a sensor or a mechanical one. just can’t tell where the sound is coming from because the car is so loud.

I'm planning on building a LS and was originally planning on an LQ4 or LQ9 6.0 and even considered stroking it out to a 408.

I'm in no hurry and my original plan was to slowly build a junkyard engine completely over the next year. Goal is 600-700 ish HP. Forced induction but not sure if that's turbo or SC. Can set the bottom end up for boost (compression ratio, ring gap, etc) but decide that later. E85 isn't very common where I am, I'd like to stick to pump gas but could add water/meth injection if necessary.

I want it to be streetable but we do have a small dragstrip nearby and who knows, I'd probably run it once in a while for fun but it won't see a lot of high RPM.

Ultimately I'd like to drop it in a regular cab short bed truck but damn those are so pricey because everyone wants them.

But I came across a good deal on an 08 Tahoe with a 5.3. (which I'd totally be ok with) I know they can make some serious HP and I'd be good with 600ish for reliability and not pushing it too hard.

Am I crazy to think it's so much easier to buy something high mileage and yank the motor and rebuild it knowing it'll be easier to adapt a built motor to the same vehicle it came out of rather than the fight of finding something later and putting this engine in it?

I'm willing to put in the budget either way. Expecting to spend 10k ish on the engine build alone and mostly doing it because I want the fun of building it myself. Not interested in a crate motor.

Torn on which direction to go.

Sorry for the long read.

TLDR. With the goal of a 600-700hp streetable toy, should I buy a junkyard engine and build it slowly finding a home for it later or buy the whole vehicle now and yank the engine and build it.

Less of a question more of a vent. Im SO pissed. Anybody in here go to WyoTech? A coworker of mine went for performance gm and the fabrication side to build racecars. He said hed help me build a new engine for my wife's yukon. He sourced a 6.0 block and rotating assembly and i funded the entire build. I asked questions throughout the build. I specifically remember asking about the hole ny the crank behind the rear cover. "Theres a little barbell there but its not a necessary component" might leak a [little] oil but another crazy. Here i am 3 months after installing the engine with the wrong crank and wrong cam bearings, assembling the entire thing myself in my garage AGAIN. Is there ANYTHING else I should be looking out for thru this build. Gen 3 block, gen 4 yukon for reference. no matter how small you guys think the advice is ill probably take it at this point. Im fucking LIVID about everything thats gone wrong

So all you carb swapped guys, what are you running for gauges? Have a 91 c1500 I am building a spiced up 5.3 for and planning on putting a carb and MSD box on it. I assume I won’t be able to use the regular LS swap gauges I see everywhere since I don’t have an ECM? Would prefer something that looks more modern like the Dakota digitals. TIA

Complete story here:

https://www.reddit.com/r/LSSwapTheWorld/s/l7xH393qsY

I’ve recently picked up an iron block 5.3 (lm7 I believe) and would like to use it for a dedicated race car build. I plan on adding turbos for it. I would love some recommendations and suggestions as to what’s needed to build it as it is my first build. Anything would be appreciated.