So I finally snagged myself a stock from Magpul and oh boy. On paper, it is lighter and way more comfortable than A3, has about same length of pull as A2 but is collapsible. Moreover, it has quite nice cheekweld. There is just one problem, my particular example is wobbly and rattly as all hell (not to mention I find it quite ugly in person). On a positive note, I also got Magpul safety lever, which in my opinion is one of the best upgrades one can get for SEF lower.

Picked it up yesterday and fell in love. I plan to frt, sbr and suppress it. I need to find a light mount so if any recommendations feel free to let me know.

So, in typical fashion.. my bolt gap is 0.010 and one of my mags won’t lock. Do you just take this on the chin and fix it yourself or is there any sort of help available from MKE? I purchased from dahlonega armory, a drop shipper. I do have a 90 degree LP coming from HK parts. Will that maybe help? Thanks!

I electronically submitted a form 1 for my Zenith ZF5-K on 8/30/26 at 1:54pm and received approval today 9/1/26 at 1:53pm.

Time for a vertical foregrip and a telescopic stock!

Decided that optics are overrated

https://sdsarms.com/lmf-series-for-mac-5/

What’s the consensus on these? Decent deal?

My ap5-p runs flatnose and hollowpoints nearly 100% except for the last 2 rounds in the mag consistently, KCI, MKE mags. Is it the lips or the spring tension?

A question about the patent. What are the granules "supplementary mass" #13? Is that tungsten? Is that mass tuneable? Is it granular to mitigate bolt bounce?

https://patentimages.storage.googleapis.com/2e/e8/95/5e85d8ccf684be/US3283435.pdf

Finally done with the build! Only thing left is maybe a stock since the Form 1 got approved, but happy with the brace so far. Zero issues with 124 grain in MKE mags.

Hopefully one day I’ll buy a SP5k.

Just got the MKE AP5 navy lower in and the RareBreed RD3 ambi dropped right in without issue. I am running HK internal parts and a 90 degree LP with the OCL Lithium 9 shooting 124gr NATO. I did drop a note when I ordered the RD3 that it was for an AP5 and the package had a sticker for “AP5SD” on it when it was delivered. From emailing with RareBreed they have a different locking bar for the AP5’s to fix the shim issue people were having. The safety selectors line up on safe and semi but for FRT they split the difference between burst and full on the pictogram lower. Safety feels tactile but on the mushy side.

Just looking for some opinions

I was replacing my charging handle and my cocking tube slid out. Trying to figure out which way it goes back in. Detent facing up or down?

Both ways work perfectly fine, but honestly my OCD just wants it back in the way it came stock. Can anyone with an AP5-P tell me if this detent is shown when passing the roll pin hole at this point?

Decided to get a second housing for the RB trigger pack SEF (yes, I know, I know). Everything fits well on these used housings currently on sale. The only thing I had to do was trim the extra plastic at the shelf where it was clipped and pinned. The attached picture are the 4 pieces needed for a complete housing besides the trigger group.

Bonus the 99$ stocks are currently in stock!

Been looking into getting an AP5. Does century make them or MKE?

Does anyone have any inside information on the ASD ARHK? It's the end of August, and so far there hasn't been an update on the ASD website.

Hopefully they'll post an update today saying it's ready to go and will start shipping???

Hey guys,
I’m running an AP5 Navy with the ambi housing, an RB drop in, and HK G3 Ejector. On first install, I noticed the trigger pack needed to be shimmed in order to get it to rack and fire. Everything seemed fine until the first range trip, I noticed a lot of difficulty in pulling the charging handle back and it got stuck about half way back. Upon further inspection, it appears the ejector is not gliding smoothly each time along the bottom of the bolt channel when looking at it through the mag well. If I place the weapon on fire and pull the trigger, the next time I pull the charging handle is smooth. Obviously, not ideal. Does anyone have any suggestions for how to best modify the trigger pack to align the ejector with the bolt channel? I may have to mess with the shims on the trigger pack itself but any other suggestions before trying a different bolt head/lower?

Pretty self explanatory question. Would you still buy a Lee sporting or Leber lower if they could not accept a super safety?

Y'all are gonna help me settle an argument. Someone told me that the majority of people who buy them, only do so as a simple trigger quality upgrade, and the FRT capability is not a driving force in the popularity of said lowers. I do not believe him, ergo: a poll.

Blazers functioned perfectly this range trip

So I’m sure this question has popped up before on here. Right so, if I’m correct you can buy full auto lowers for most H&k roller-delayed guns “legally” The current ap53 has the welded block in the receiver to block a full auto bcg. But yet companies like armament USA have removable sear trip modification services to the bolt without modifications to the receiver or gun itself. Say with right license is this possible and easy as I think?

So just picked up my Mac 5 and the first thing I did was put on the SB tactical PDW brace. Like most people I had to use a mallet to get it on, now I’m trying to get it off and I fucking can’t. Any tips to getting it off so I can clean it after taking it to the range?

Like some others on here, my AP5 case deflector already had or developed some wiggle after several thousand rounds. Online sources recommended warranty, gunsmith, or using a punch to remedy the issue. However, I couldn't find a straightforward guide on how to go about tightening the rivets at home. All you need is a punch small enough to hold the internal side of the rivet in place and to brace it against something hard(in this case a chair) and use a brass punch on the external side of the rivet. This doesn't require much force or many taps. I used masking tape and I still messed up the paint on the rivets a little, but I don't care. Hope this helps you guys dealing with the same issue!