I dont think I did it justice. I might just redraw the design and start over.

What are your thoughts? Is it giving Rocky horror or something else?

Software: Ember Embroidery

Size: 3.5" x 3.5"

I used ChatGPT to turn the picture from my phone into a suitable PNG image, then used DADE to generate the stitch files. Sewn out on my Husqvarna Topaz 40.

A little journey from one of my most challenging embroidery projects to something much simpler 🌼

I originally created these florals for an embroidered dress where I really wanted to push myself — experimenting with difficult fabrics, backing choices, layering and intricate embroidery techniques.

The finished dress went on to win at the National Embroidery Awards 2025 and remains one of my proudest projects.

Recently I've been revisiting the flowers and challenging myself in the opposite direction: how much could I simplify the embroidery while still keeping the character and detail of the originals?

It's been surprisingly interesting going from deliberately pushing the technical limits to stripping everything back and seeing what really makes each flower work.

Hi everyone,
I recently purchased a Ricoma SWM-2002-10S dual-head embroidery machine, and I’m still learning how to use the full embroidery area of the machine.
According to Ricoma, the machine can achieve a maximum embroidery area of approximately 160 × 50 cm when using the large sash frame.
I’m planning a large embroidery project that will be approximately 150 cm long × 40 cm wide, so I would like to use almost the entire available embroidery area.
I have two main questions:
How do I correctly set up/configure the large 160 × 50 cm sash frame in the machine settings?
At the moment, I cannot find this frame size listed on the control panel. Do I need to manually create/register the frame dimensions, change a machine setting, or select a special sash-frame mode?
How does a 150 cm-wide design work on a dual-head machine?
Since the machine has two embroidery heads, do I need to split the 150 cm design into two separate files/sections and embroider one section with Head 1 and the second section with Head 2?
Or can I import the complete 150 × 40 cm design as one file, and the machine automatically knows which head should embroider which part of the design?
Basically, I would like to understand the correct workflow for creating one continuous large design across almost the entire 160 cm sash-frame area.
If anyone owns a Ricoma SWM-2002-10S or has experience with large sash-frame embroidery on Ricoma multi-head machines, I would really appreciate any advice, screenshots, videos, or explanations of how you set this up.
Thank you very much!

I have been using a Melco Bravo at work to embroider name patches using Inkscape/Inkstitch default fonts and that’s basically it.

Today I attempted to digitize a file from scratch of a logo I am familiar with. I used “Circular Fill” for the red portion. And satin for all of the lettering.

What can I do to get a smoother more full fill? All of those black lines/specks in the fill section is my black bobbin showing through. Also, it bunched up in the middle because of the dense fill.

I used 2 layers of tear away backing, I had a 2% pull compensation on all of the objects and the fill, I had a 1mm inset on the fill underlay and a 1mm outset on the fill itself.

Thank you for your time and expertise.

Picked up this ricoma em1010. Previous owner bought new at beginning of 2025. Has 500k stitches. Included was HoopTalent full station, set of magnetic Maggie frames, lots of thread/bobbins. Lots of extras like stabilizer and 7 or 8 books of digitized designs. Paid $3700.

(sorry for repost, I accidentally posted without pictures haha)

I've made a collection called Haunted World, which is based on a series of dreams that I had, and I wanted something cool and unique, yet simplistic, so I took a bone creature from one of the 8 artworks that I made together with 2 other people (I did all the concept art and sketches, the other 2 the line art and coloring) and asked my embroidery artist to do use a technique that keeps the embroidery light while not taking away from the artwork. So we ended up with this.

I did the embroidery on my own machine. Rehooping was a pain in the ass, but I got it lined up almost perfectly. Pretty happy with the result considering it was my first attempt at rehooping a design. What do you guys think?

Pretty happy with the results overall, sending this to a friend as a gift

I have a brother Skitch and the magnetic hoop isn’t strong enough to go all the way through this thicker softshell jacket.
I’d float it and pin it but then it’ll leave pin marks..
Can I use binder clips to keep it taught against the hoop?
I’ve already ruined a jacket so 🥴

Does anyone know how Waggle makes designs like this one? They are raised designs that look like a patch or 3D but are not actually puff. If you’ve seen these in person you’ll know what I mean.

Good morning !

Does anyone here have the ability to delete jump stitches from pes files?

I have a file I designed for a client who asked me to embroider a very delicate linen for their daughter’s upcoming wedding, and the design I made has so many jump stitches that I’m afraid trimming them will destroy the linen once it is stitched. The test I did on a linen cocktail napkin has so many tiny holes. I cannot figure how to delete jump stitches with my software (Creativate Embroidery).

Let me know! I'd be happy to pay you for your help.

I am using Hatch by Wilcom. I’ve tried the “travel on edge” feature but this created a single line stitch border that I didn’t like. I’ve tried moving around the start/stop points to various locations, and changing the stitch angles, to no avail. I also tried increasing the pull comp/density. Nothing seems to be working. Does anyone more experienced than me have advice?

I came across these designs which I really want to learn. Tried to search on the web for learning resources but seems not too many.

Love the layering and also the fur texture of the mice!

Is there any courses (free or paid) that cover this topic?

I remember reading somewhere on Reddit of a resizing website someone made. It was a simply website where you could just enter your current design and it would quickly resize it to your desired size. In my case, 4x4 because that’s all my machine can do. Anyone know if this site or can reference the post?

My trial run (red fabric) looked great. I’ve got the shirt hooped this time and it seems so sparse. I have double layer cut away stabilizer underneath. Is there any way to save it? I’m a newbie.

1. Could I put water soluble stabilizer on top and run it again without unhooping?

2. Could I unhoop, seam ripper, use adhesive spray to spray the fabric to the stabilizer and try again?

Any other suggestions gladly welcome!

Hoping some of you who actually run caps every day can help me out here.

I run a sports apparel shop in Tennessee and we've been paying someone else $7 to $9 a hat to do our embroidery. Doing about 5,000 caps a year, almost all of it 3D puff with team logos. March is brutal, we push around 50 hats a day for three weeks straight and then it slows way down. Rest of the year is easy.

Found two options and I'm stuck.

First one is a used Bernina E16 for $8,000. From what I understand it's really a Melco underneath, 16 needles, has the Acti-Feed tension thing and a laser. It's a 2017 or 2018 and has 51 million stitches on it from a lady who ran an Etsy shop. She's including the Melco OS software, cap driver and frames, 19 Fast Frames, a Hoop Master and something like 145 spools of thread. Bernina dealer 30 minutes from me has serviced it.

Other option is a brand new BAI Mirror for $6,400. 15 needles, warranty, comes with everything. Only does 850 spm on caps though and the tension is manual.

Few things I'm trying to figure out:

Is 51 million stitches bad on a Melco or is that just normal and I need to budget for a service? What would that cost me?

How do these Melcos actually do on structured hats with foam? Not flat stuff, actual stiff caps.

Anybody running a BAI Mirror on hats? Is 850 spm going to hurt me or does it not matter since everyone runs puff slow anyway?

Whoever runs the machine won't be an experienced embroiderer. Does the automatic tension actually save you on puff or is that just marketing?

And honestly if puff on structured caps was your main thing, what machine would you buy? What actually makes or breaks it, the machine or the digitizing or something else nobody mentions?

Appreciate it.

Just finished running test samples for this vintage-inspired baroque cushion crest!

A lot of detail went into managing the stitch angles for the leaves and soft shading on the central flowers so it sits flat without pulling the fabric.

• Stitch Type: Tatami fill with satin stitch accents
• Design Style: Classic Floral Medallion / Baroque Crest
• Application: Luxury Cushion Cover

Would love to hear your thoughts on the density and pull compensation! How do you usually handle large centerpieces like this on home decor fabrics?

Hi everyone. I'm learning digitizing in Hatch Embroidery and I'm trying to recreate this style of design.

The first photo is my embroidery and the second photo is the reference I'm trying to match.

My version looks heavier and less elegant, especially the script lettering and the small birds. I can't figure out whether the problem is my satin column width, stitch angles, density, underlay, or simply the shapes I've digitized.

I'm mainly struggling with:

• getting the script lettering thinner and smoother
• making the satin stitches follow the curves naturally
• keeping the small birds clean without making them bulky
• matching the overall proportions of the reference

I'm using Hatch Embroidery. I would really appreciate feedback from experienced digitizers on what you would change first.

Should I redraw the lettering manually as satin columns rather than relying on automatic digitizing/tracing?

After the "Bioshock"visual, here’s a second attemptthis time set in " the Witcher" universe while waiting for the update. 😅 I hope you like my creation.

Crazy to compare these 3 as I know they are vastly different.
For context: I have tajima and happy embroidery machines.

Tajima - 8.5/10
Excellent machine. No major issues. Does hats well, flats even better. But crazy expensive. $29,000 cad

Happy - 5.5/10
Purchased this before tajima and got convinced it was a great JAPANESE machine. Nothing but issues with this machine. Albeit using Facebook posts and YouTube I was able to fix all. But as a brand new machine it shouldn’t have had so many issues (broken potentiometer, broken needle bar, broken hat to flat sensor, broken wiper arm, rotation issues) - I was forced to learn and fix all issues because no techs in my area. Everything was broken within first 2 years but nothing was covered under warranty.

Why I’m asking to compare these 3 is because.
I’m currently at the state of my business where production is hindering bc I only have 2 machines.
I’m looking to add a third to help with the load but don’t want to spend that much. Up to $7000 cad max for a used machine.

Saw some good deals on SWF, but don’t see any user reviews.

Bai, seems like it’s super affordable but has more of a beginner user base (reporting issues that I don’t deem as issues - such as auto needle threader)

My main work load is hats and 3d foam hats.

Any insight is helpful!