Water from the bathroom sink at a hospital. Water is warm, almost sparkly/shiny? Milky color but not a solid white as it’s still sort of translucent. The weirdest part is when I cupped it in my hands it was steamy/smoky as if it’s off-gassing? Is it a chlorine or something? The water didn’t smell like anything though.

I had the fantastic opportunity to create a bespoke external copper shower as a center piece for a client out in their back garden.

Its functional, also has isolation internally for the client as well as drains externally for the winter months to avoid freezing.

I just wanted to share it with yourselves, let me know what you think.

(European Plumber)

i assume these are stack vents/fresh air inlet pipes? but how was all that water getting in there? and would it have been causing backups inside the building?

Granddad bought it new in ’70. My dad got it in ’86 and I got it in ’08. I’ve replaced the pedal and pigtail a few times but never really done anything to the machine itself besides greasing it up after every gas job. Run Tracpipe and Mega Press pretty regularly but we’ll still drag this out pretty often to make sure we don’t forget how to use it. Most the time I try to get out to the project and take all my measurements, cut and thread in the shop and then leave this thing there though.. Think the only tools I have older than this threading machine are pipe wrenches.. and maybe my ladle and lead pot..

Hello

Can the toilet venting be installed as shown in the picture, or is there another solution? Any help would be appreciated

Thank you

So this is my back up sump pump. Rarely goes off. But we’ve been having a lot of rain this summer and the basin has been half full most of the summer.

My question is this, when it does go off, you can see the water essentially rushing back in from the drain.

I don’t believe it’s the same water, as I’ve seen it drain into my yard away from my house. But I really don’t understand if there’s water rushing in the way it appears, why doesn’t it ever overflow or trigger the pump?

It stops at the same level, every time and never goes higher, you can see the water level on the basin.

So what is this water?

Other related facts. Basement is dry. There’s no seepage anywhere. Yard is dry, there is no standing water anywhere in property.

Is it just the water table being high?

Again, rarely goes off, so it’s not an annoyance, this is curiosity.

Thanks.

I mean...it wasn't leaking.

We live in an old, 1939 house and have been here for 5 years. Before moving in, the previous owners did a liner in the sewer lateral to our house. We have a combination of cast iron and clay pipes, and given that we have some big old trees in our yard, I decided I'd like to take a look to make sure the repair was in good shape.

We are NOT currently having any drainage issues.

Apologies for the few seconds of wasted time at the front of the video. I thought I had trimmed it better.

The access point is in the front yard. The video starts house side. The plumber thought we were probably right up under a floor drain that had enough scale in it that he couldn't advance further (all of our floor drains work just fine, and I've made use of them occasionally for weird purposes). Then, part way through, the plumber goes to the sewer, and come back to the access point.

There's some scaling throughout the cast iron that he thought we may have to deal with in the span of a year or so, and there appears to be a small belly between the access and the sewer. He had recommended hydroflush and descaling either when we start to have issues or in the short-medium future. Curious about thoughts with respect to urgency of any of this.

Hello everybody. I am not very well-versed in plumbing at all and I’ve been having an issue since I’m moved into my apartment complex. The issue is that somebody in the building is consistently flushing a large amount wet wipes down their toilet, and it’s clogging up the drains and that’s necessarily not really my problem. Even though it is causing the clogging, but the problem is where the pipe goes.

Maintenance has already explained to me that they can’t really control what people do outside of giving warnings and fining people but my main concern is that they haven’t given an explanation as to why the pipe it’s just open and leaking out near the AC units and down the sidewalk, functionally leaking sewage and actual human feces all day every day.

What I wanted to know is if there’s a receptacle that This pipe is supposed to be leading into that my apartment complex have been neglecting, or if swage is really just supposed to be leaking out of there. Near my walkway is constantly. The smell is horrible, and every time that I call and ask for a plumber to come and suction out all the debris. I’m getting fined for it and they maintenance team have effectively told me there’s no permanent solution.

And even when they come and suction it, nobody comes and cleans out any of the sewage, or wet wipes, or feces.

Any and all advice would be appreciated.

Edit: this is in Orlando Florida if that changes anything I need to do about my approach when contacting the county or with other legal matters.

i do laundry at my university and we got moved into this funky closet. there was an ant infestation that was dealt w but today we noticed spiders and eggs around this pipe. after further research the “rotten egg” scent isn’t something i found out shouldn’t be happening (it was hard to pinpoint if it was dirty laundry or that for awhile don’t hate).

can someone inform me more on what this is and possible risks of working in a small space w it uncovered?

I (44m) am a Canadian Red Seal Plumber and am looking to get into remote work in the Caribbean. I have commercial experience and am wondering which countries and companies are worth looking into and which should stay away from. I realize that I need to get may passport and background check done in advance and that I should visit some places and not just throw a dart at a map.

Thanks Reddit

Help!

EDIT: I ordered the 12. Thanks everyone!

I've been DIY for decades usually on cars.

I learned respect for electricity and can be handy.

Plumbing on a 70 year old house is like the haunted house. My main sewer line to city was some sort of black tar wrap that had formed an oval.

No easy cut off unless I'm in the yard with my twrench.

As I've torn apart walls or looked through plaster access panels I find pipes that come out of slab and are capped.

Of course solder caps don't last forever which taught me about shark bites. Toilet, washer supply lines are ticking time bombs. I can't believe people leave for weeks.

I should get one of those automatic sensors that shut stuff off.

Electric is a mix of 2 , 3, GFI, plugs.

Whoever did kitchen refurb put a GFI on every plug. WTF.

After a drip in the cabinet was fixed by replacing a basket gasket, and new slip washers…everything was drying up until I went to the basement.
We don’t use the left much, in fact the dishwasher is the main use on that side. So it went unnoticed but once I’m full throttle running water ..It’s leaking pretty bad. Looks like it’s coming from the glued joint between the cabinet and the floor. Also doesn’t seem to have a vent anywhere near the sink.
I didn’t do this. It’s a century home. The projects are endless. This is priority…especially with the junction box proximity.

Is there any easy way to fix this?
My waste drain (I believe it’s called) has separated from my sink as you can see in the picture attached. Online it says that there is a nut/washer that needs to be used to attach it, but I can’t see where that would fit?

One of our old toilets has a few issues. It was installed in 1996, so wife thinks replace rather than repair.

Current one has quite a large base and is rectangular in shape with square front. 9 1/2" wide x 17 1/2" long. Front corners have 1 1/2" radius. Back corners have 3"x3" 45deg cut offs. Bolts holes are 11 1/2" from front and 6" from back.

Water supply comes up through floor - about 5 3/4" offset from centerine of toilet and 3" from back wall.

The toilet is in a small 1/2 bathroom and is 27" from wall to front of seat. Just enough legroom between toilet and vanity.

Bolts are standard 12" from back wall.

I have looked at various toilets at box stores. Seems we need a round seat type to achieve the 27" maximum length. Several available. I need ones that would also cover the footprint of the old toilet and not interfere with the water inlet.

Problem I have found, is that although American Standard and some others have dimensioned drawings, none of them show plan views of the base. The box stores have their displays up on a wall where I can't reach them to take measurements!

Anyone else had this issue in trying to cover a footprint in flooring? Any sources for drawngs of the bases? Any suggestions for toilets that might work?

I will take any advice with how to get this guy off.

I cannot for the life of me figure out how this is able to be tightened. Google image search identified it as a Moen tool free faucet mount. Apparently the yellow nut is supposed to be pressed and then spun, but it doesn’t budge, by band or by wrench. I also can’t imagine how it could spin like a typical nut because the entire this is connected to three bars, one in the center threaded, and two on the outside no threads. I’m obviously an idiot in this arena, but any help is greatly appreciated.

I live in a high rise condo building on the 6th floor. There's a commercial unit below me on the 5th floor (one of a few in a mostly residential building) that's experiencing water leaking thru their concrete ceiling. We think it's coming from our shower drain based on the location of the ceiling leak. Also, we ran the water in the shower while bldg maintenance watched on the 5th fl, and he saw water coming thru the ceiling.

We had a plumber come out to make sure that's where the leak was coming from, but he didn't do any tests and didn't have any leak detection equipment. He wants to: "Remove shower drain and trap from below and above at the same time, install new shower donut and drain line and refire caulk can. Once damaged section is removed and replaced the shower enclosure itself will be placed on test to check the water membrane for the tile."

QUESTIONS:

1) I'm wondering if it would be better to test the shower pan first (block drain and flood it?) to see if that's the source of the leak before replacing the drain?

2) Also, I'm wondering if it would be better to have a leak detection service make sure where the leak is coming from before having the drain replaced. The plumber didn't say that he knew for sure where the leak is coming from, more like he suspects it could be the drain, but it's an expensive repair and we'd like to be more sure about where the leak is coming from. Thank you...

I have two bathrooms upstairs, both toilets are back to back. One is in my master bath one is in the guest bath. A little while ago I noticed a softball sized stain on my kitchen ceiling directly below the guest bathroom. I didn’t see any obvious leaks and after monitoring it, it never changed size or got wetter.

After that I kind of forgot about it, but one day noticed that water level in the guest bathroom toilet was low. After flushing it, it filled back up to normal level and I chalked it up to us just never using it so the level went down. But I realized it keeps losing water.

A while later I noticed the master bath toilet slightly gurgles at the very end of the flush. And now I put two and two together and saw the guest toilet loses water when I flush the master toilet. The water in the master slightly jiggles when I flush the guest but doesn’t lose water. Both flush normally besides the slight gurgle at the end. Nothing on my main floor has any symptoms.

I’ve been trying to google but I either come up with it’s definitely a clogged vent stack or definitely not a clogged vent stack and there’s a clog in the drain line. The stain on my ceiling is throwing me off making me think there’s a small clog hung up some where but I don’t know what to think so here I am asking for help. I’ve plunged the hell out of both toilets on multiple occasions but no change. Any insight on what I should try next? Trying to avoid going on my roof to check the vent stack if it’s not necessary since it’s a 2 story colonial. Thanks in advance.

We replaced an old tub with an Americh hydromassage tub. There was an existing bare ground wire coming from the basement which we just screwed into the grounding spot on the nano massage motor. The inspector specifically asked if we had grounded the tub which I showed him that wire. He seemed happy with that. I noticed however the control box next to the motor also has a spot for a ground? Does that need to be bonded or grounded to anything?

For context this tub has a blower motor and pump as well. 3 seperate gfci circuits, one for each cord. House water lines are cpvc but we transitioned to copper in the tub area since the the trim out has copper roughs.

Hello all,

Seeking help. The pipe underneath my kitchen sink has now come undone twice causing big leaks. When i put it back on and tightened it, it seemed like it would last, then it slid off again. I can basically just pull it right off it’s not super tight and just slides down. Almost seems like the red washer is too big. Can anyone help? I’ve attached photos

Basically what i have is a small pipe from the sink drain, to a straight pipe, to a p trap, to a curved piece, to the wall

It looks like an o ring there, but feels like it’s nothing but metal. When the faucet is in use it drips a good bit. Delta chat support was worthless but I don’t know if the customer needs to get a new hose that goes to the sprayer, or if that very hard o ring actually needs replaced. Haven’t dealt with a sprayer style this damn old tbh it was a nightmare to get loose the first time.