Yeah this explains all that noise and why my car started to misfire and go into limp mode constantly after it happened

Dónde puedo conseguirlo soy de México ? Que me manden el link o si se puede reparar

I have a 2003 MCS that’s been covered in my driveway on jack stands and a drip charger for about a year. I would go out and turn her on just to keep the juices flowing once a week or so. She’s waiting on tires and a tune. Prior to this status, I had replaced the head gasket. While I was in there I did the timing chain, port matched and polished the head cylinder and intake manifold. I also added 380cc file injectors which is why i need a tune. I had already had a 17% pulley and CAI installed. Today I went out to turn her on and she started surging. She wasn’t doing that before and to add to that I’ve noticed vibrating on the engine. The video barely picks it up but it’s shaking. Not violently but it’s shaking. Not positive if it might have been doing it before all the work but I’m noticing it now. I’m not a professional. I’m simply a driveway mini dabbler, that’s not afraid to do my own work, within reason. I’m just looking for insight.

Started up an old job of replacing a clutch on my 2003 and can't find where this bracket goes. Any input?

Recently swapped the seats in my r50 for r56 seats.
Rewired all plugs, including the seat heating wires
(remove the module, wire both mats in series because new seat mats have a lower resistance for those interested)

As a way to test if the seat heating rewire works, connected only the seat hearing plug, reconnected the battery and tested the heating. Of course didnt think about airbag lights, so that turned on because airbag was disconnected.

With the new seats in and all plugs connected, light is still on. Is that just a case of a stored code in the srs? Or does it check everytime with no codes stored, ie do i need to recheck the wiring?

I had the alternator go out last weekend. All electrical was wonky and when I tested it wasn’t charging at all. I got it replaced this weekend and now I have all these codes. The wheel speed was there before but the rest is all new. I have had this car 3 months and have yet to drive it more than 2 days in a row before new issues come up.

TLDR: has anyone removed and replaced encoder head themselves and are there special tools needed.

I am getting a cyl 3 misfire code on a 2004 . Starts up a bit rough then runs great and normal speeds and still makes plenty of power. Tried replacing plugs, new coil pack, swapped injectors, finally took it to the dealer and they said most likely it is a bad exhaust valve or seat. At first the tech said new engine but service advisor said need to pull the cyl head and either replace or send it to the machine shop. They want way more than the car is worth to do the repair.

How hard is it to pull the cylinder head and are special tools required? It seems like I can get a new head for about $1000 which would be worth it. The labor at a shop or dealership seems like it is prohibitively expensive.

Has anyone done this?

Thanks all for such a great group of enthusiasts!

Hi guys, really need some help here as I’m about to give up on this heap of shit.

Long story short, last week I had a weird noise, checked the upper strut mounts & they were ripped. Took the strut out to replace them, now I can’t for the life of me get it back in. It’s like an inch away from going in at the bottom hub.
I’ve changed lower ball joints on another mini before and it was a ball ache so want to avoid removing them on this car. Any tips? What am I doing wrong here? I’ve spent like 4 hours total on this and can’t get it back in, spring compressors on/off, tie rod etc are off. Any advice please?

Cv boot is leaking everywhere so I guess I’ve ripped that and it’ll need to be replaced too lol. Really fed up with this, YouTube vids look easy enough yet mines putting up a massive fight.

anybody in the pnw or greater western us selling a manual r53? been looking for over a month now and pickins are slim. thanks!

Has anyone actually experienced both single mass conversion like the valeo kit and the OEM dual mass flywheel?

It's time for a clutch change, and I can't find any first-hand differences explained. Only vague descriptions.

If you've run both, can you describe how the driving is different?

Thanks, appreciate any insight.

Soneto que fuga un poco de aire
Alguien que me explique cómo es su funcionamiento y si se puede remplazar o mejorar

Janspeed 4-2-1 ceramic manifold, Janspeed cat and Milltek cat back exhaust

As the title says guys… this is r53 brakes on r56 arms. What do i do?

Check out the bottom glide pin in the second pic…

I got a front bumper from the junkyard but I don't understand if the front car plate is supposed to screw onto someone on the bottom?

Also where is the connector to connect the ABS cable on the front right? I can't see it.

Have an R53 that stalled out on me while driving and believe it might be my EWS. Sprayed starter fluid to the intake and still no start. Replaced spark plugs, started again and drove fine but then stopped a week later (crank, no start again). Replaced leads and ignition coil and didn't solve the issue. Only codes I'm getting are in the picture and wondering if its my key, EWS or the synchronization with the DME. Any advice on how to fix, repair without throwing money at ghosts.​

Lately my H&K speakers started crackling and sometimes even just stop working. Switched left to right, problem still on the same side. Not an electrical hero so don't really want to chase wiring. Could this be the amplifier? Saw a lot online that they tend to go bad?

Partner got the black mini (pictured behind) last week and I had massive fomo

It was in line with the toggle switches in the center stack. Google Gemini says it's for aftermarket window controls. But without it, the window works as normal and I can still open the sunroof and windows all with the key fob. This was just dangling behind the toggle switches. It wasn't secured in any way.

For reference I have a 2005 Cooper s

Hi All, 2003 R53 Mini, US Spec, 15% pulley/380CC injectors/ArianCL tune. Running into an issue where the the throttle stops working after driving the car. First time on the freeway. Shut off car, waited a few min and started. Few days later, same thing. Happened again, but won't start and stay running unless this connector is unplugged. It's in the front of the engine above the T-MAP sensor. INPA codes are P1106 and P1688. Any ideas? Thank you!

Parts replaced over the years:

Crank Pulley, Cylinder head, Alternator, Supercharger, etc. Pretty much all common faults have been addressed over the years.

Started cleaning up the R56 brakes I got from the junkyard. Unfortunately they’re TRW-15’s instead of 16. But bigger pistons is at least better than what I’ve got, for the time being. I’ll find some TRW-16’s eventually. Caliper received a light wire brushing and a 24 hour soak in Evapo-Rust. Next caliper I’ll do a proper clean, wire brushing, and soak and see if they come out any better. Definitely pleased with these results though. Then on to paint.

I'm trying to replace the 12V plug under the dash, but I've discovered, that the orange piece and the plug have to be installed separately. Ignore injuries.

First picture is the driver side and second is the passenger side. I recently changed hoods and my original hood had the same issue but not this bad. With this new hood I can barely pop the hood open because it makes contact with the body of the car.

Looked up the Bentley manual and there really isn't much on this unless I missed it. Anyone have any insight please?

Hi guys,

just out of curiosity, has anyone ever done a nut and bolt restoration on a their r53?

how much did it cost?

did you perform any OEM plus upgrades such as extra sound deadening in the cabin?

Did you keep the bushings and suspension stock?

Thanks!