To cut a very long story short a family friend who Ive obsessed over his Rx7 Fd has unfortunately passed away and I intend to buy it. To my knowledge (quite limited) its been sat for 5+ years. Im going to see it on friday to see what kind of state its in so i can gauge a price. Any advise on common things to look for like where rust usually forms and common issues that occur over time. Ill also be bringing a jump pack with me to see if it runs which i will be astonished if it does but any advise on making that more possible will also be appreciated! Thank you :)

First turbo is making boost and it feels like it 😂 quick car honestly also had to bypass my heater core due to a small pinhole leak into the passenger floor.

Hello guys, i've bought an fd with a "water leak"

and the car was not running for 10 years

compressions were good for a non running engine ~130-140 psi (cold) on both rotors and all faces and the engine was running "pretty good" after unblocking the fuel pump (very old gas which turned into glue in the tank), at the time, as there were no coolant, i've avoided to make it run more than 10 secs, two times, only to move the car in the garage.

Of course, after investigating, one of the freeze plug (bottom one) was popped out, i've removed the trans and flywheel, replaced the frost plug and noticed the top plug was also about to pop

After replacing both plugs, i've put water in the system and ... big fail, all the water goes immediately in the oilpan overflowing by the flywheel "hole" (which was removed at the moment)

So i guess there's a leak between combustion chamber and water jackets which over pressurized the coolant circuit and made the plugs pop

i know i'm good for a engine teardown to see what the problem is but does anyone already have an idea of what failed and want to make bets about how fucked it is ?

Thanks !

I need to replace my cat so I can pass smog. I'm just going to replace my secondary cat, however I'm noticing most of the universal carb compliant cats don't have the pipe for the split air tube to hook up to. Does anyone know of any available? Or do I need the racing beat pipe put in before the secondary cat, and then just bolt the universal cat to that?

I ran into this guy on I-95; his car sounded great, and he drove with a lot of style.

So, I'll be very clear in saying that I am only thinking about getting an RX7 as a next next, or a next next next project car. I already have 2 cars right now and I don't really want to buy another car whatsoever right now, I just purchased a Z that I need to work on.

HOWEVER, i've been deliberating about this for quite a while and talking to friends with experience with RX7's and RX8's. I am very much interested in getting an older FC or FB personally.

However, I want some more insight about working with the carbed 12a. I've heard that the FB, while finding parts is rather difficult due to age, is much much easier to work on and maintain. On the other hand, the FC's parts are a lot more readily available, and although the 13b is more complicated to work with, it treats you well as loong as you you treat it.

The FB style-wise and philolsophy-wise has grown on me more, kinda more like a cooler NA miata, but my main worry first and foremost has been mechanical condition, I usually don't give a shit about exterior/interior condition.

At the end of the day, how much more does it cost to maintain and keep a steadily running 12a FB compared to an FC?

Hey guys, I’m currently in the process of fixing up an old gsl-se and I’ve been able to source pretty much everything so far. Now I’ve run into an issue with the calipers. I ordered a rebuild kit for the rear ones but I can’t seem to find anything for the front. Is there new/old stock calipers for the front somewhere out there or maybe even like using fc or fd calipers? I’ve tried researching it but I find just a lot of conflicting answers. Thank you for your help!

Hi! So i have been looking to get my hands onto a 83- fb rx7 with a12 wankel. Theres one in my area going for 10k€ it has 27 961 miles and has been driven only in the summer. I still have to go and see it on site to check for advertised "no rust" and "good coldstart". But otherwise interior looks mint and it has been repainted.

Otherwise fully stock except for bc racing suspension and fuel tank is replaced with the fuel cell that is in the trunk.

So the question is, is that a fair price for theese conditions or am i being ripped off?

I’ve fixed the idle hunt issue and raised the idle to where I like it even did some hot starts and started right up each time I love having accurate gauges👍🏼

1986 Rx7 Fc Finally made some progress! let mmo soak for a day in the spark plug holes and sprayed starter fluid into the air intake and wow the car seemed to want to start right away!! Really happy to see it’s capable of running.

I’m not sure why I’m not getting fuel. Using a multimeter, I am getting 12v to the fuel pump, I hear the relay clicking if I bridge the yellow connector but I never hear the fuel pump itself. What confuses me is if I cranked it I can smell fuel from the left exhaust and after waiting a few days it goes away. Also confirmed it is not flooded, the spark plugs are dry and did deflood procedure just in case. I know I’m not getting fuel but don’t know why. How should I start? Could it be something I’m overlooking?

Shameless plug: https://www.instagram.com/framebymarcus?igsi=MW1keWo3NWFmNnZoOA%3D%3D&utm_source=qr

Technically makes boost 😂 and I’ve got some odd idle issues with the Pfc maybe it’s still just learning itself.👍🏼

Shameless plug: https://www.instagram.com/framebymarcus?igsi=MW1keWo3NWFmNnZoOA%3D%3D&utm_source=qr

About 300km into the rebuild, super hit or miss on how nicely my car will start. Sometimes it'll startup properly, rev to 3k then 1.5 then down to 1, this time it didn't, didn't want to hold any sort of idle until it was warmed up. Motor is stock on stock ecu. Has some other weird behaviour like throttle seems to have some lag to it, like I'll punch the throttle and the engine responds a second after. Also noticed rev hang, if I clutch in after a pull the rpms take some time to drop. Finally, there's vibration above like 4500. I'm so lost with things, looking for some insight, thanks.

Finally have accurate gauges and can get rid of the emissions stuff and get rid of my upstream cat without worrying about boost creep I can already tell the car runs better👍🏼

Hi all. I'm putting my engine back together and can't remember where the OMP lines previously ran.

Looking at it currently, they're running right against the housings and irons where it would get super hot. See the photos without the water pump housing.

Is that right? Do they handle the heat against the block?

87 T2 project is failing to start after any prolonged sitting. I can occasionally get it started after do an extended deflooding and it will start right back up if i try it immediately after turning it off. The car was sat for 2yrs before i got it about a month ago. Since then ive drained the fuel tank, replaced the fuel pump and had the injectors cleaned, tested and rebuilt, i put new plugs and wires and fresh fuel. When I can get it started it runs smooth but has a low idle after running for aprox 30 min. Only modification is a racing beat exhaust. Any ideas?

Edit: Apologies I shouldve been nore clear. After the car is started once it has no issues restarting as long as i starting it within about half an hour. If it sits for longer than that the problem starts leading me to believe it may be leaky injectors again

The FD has been a dream of mine for approx 3 decades. Because of the rarity and my constant financial hurdles, I've never even sat in one. Can someone who is about 6'0" to 6'2" and large (275-325lbs) tell me if I'd even fit in one? it might be time to crush my dream.

Looking for a bit of advice on rear fitment on my FD.
I’ve just fitted a set of Advan GTs and the rear setup is:

- 18x10.5 +24
- 275/35R18 tyres
- BC Racing coilovers
- Arches already rolled
- Currently basically no negative camber

At the moment the rears are sitting roughly 10-15mm outside the arch at the top of the tyre/wheel.

I’m hoping that around -2 degrees of camber might be enough to bring everything in and give me a fairly aggressive but still usable street setup. I don’t want to run ridiculous camber purely to make the wheels fit.

Has anyone run a similar 18x10.5 +24 / 275 setup on an FD?
Mainly wondering how much clearance I can realistically gain from around -2° camber, how much negative camber is achievable with the factory rear adjustment, and whether I’ll likely need adjustable rear arms to get this sitting properly.

Car is already fairly low and the arches are rolled, so I’d rather sort it through sensible alignment/suspension adjustment before considering changing tyres or wheels.

I’ll add a couple of photos showing how it’s currently sitting.

Cheers!