As the title states. How late do you guys usually work? Residential shingle company here and we typically make hay when the sun is shinning here in the Northeast. I had a customer complaining that multiple of his neighbors were upset tonight that we were still working at 5:43 p.m. we typically go till 6 or 7 but can push till 8 if needed.

What’s your typical build schedule?

Hello much more experienced people of Reddit. I had my roof done not too long ago to fix a leaking issue and after the roofing was done it continued to leak. Please ignore the black locite I used to seal the gap between the flashing and roofing, that was done by me. I did it because after placing a hose on my roof so the water goes under the gap i got leaking so i sealed it up. I am wondering if the flashing was installed properly.

Thank you for any info 😀

I bought a fixer upper house back at the end of April and have been slowly finding more and more issues. The biggest ones have been the roof and where it meets with stuff like the wall (as pictured) and my chimney.

Recently had some flat roof work done on my Victorian terrace in the UK. The roofer recommended adding a few slate vents lower down on the pitched roof to improve eaves ventilation and prevent loft damp. Sounded sensible, so I went ahead.

The slaters replaced a few slates with vented ones evenly spaced towards the bottom of the pitched roof. To do this, they removed an existing slate in each space and cut through the existing non-breathable underlay membrane, thereafter replacing the old slate with a vented slate over this newly created hole. Today I popped into the loft space to check out the work, and I’m pretty horrified by what I saw.

They’ve literally just hacked rough holes straight through the existing underlay membrane directly behind each vent, leaving the underlay hanging down in various points. I did think they'd need to make some holes, but assumed the underlay would be finished by tucking into the slate / waterproofing it somehow...

A few questions for the trade experts and experienced DIYers here:

1. Is this standard practice? Do you really just chop a hole through the membrane with a utility knife and call it a day?
2. How bad is the execution? The cuts look extremely rough from inside. What should they have done to create a proper weather-tight penetration?
3. Leak risk: If a slate higher up leaks or condensation builds up on the underlay higher up the pitch, won't water running down the membrane drain straight into my loft through these freshly cut holes?
4. How do I fix this without getting rinsed? Do I really need to strip the roof slates and relay the membrane from top to bottom, or is there a valid way to seal/collar this properly from the inside/locally?

Appreciate any advice before I call the roofer back to discuss fixing this mess. Photos attached in comments! Have currently paid him around 60% of the bill so hoping I can leverage the remaining to get him to sort it out if needed.

Having a new roof installed in climate zone 4A and seeking some advice on ventilation. Thanks in advance.

On main roof, there's currently no intake but there is one exhaust power vent. Lots of mold in the attic and clear evidence of condensation as the nail heads are all rusty.

Hip roof is 25' x 48' with about 18' of ridge length.

I don't think there's enough ridge vent length to get the ~605 sq. in. NFA needed for 50/50 balanced flow, so is my best option to install the soffit vents and ensure the power vent is sufficiently sized for exhaust?

I would have the power vent replaced while I am re-roofing, and am looking at going with a solar/AC hybrid.

In the lower portion of the roof over the garage, which is 36' x 24', I believe I should be fine with a ridge vent. With 23' of ridge vent at 18 sq in per LF, exhaust NFA will be 414 sq in., nearly exactly 50% of the total NFA requirement of 830 sq in.

I plan to put soffit vents on both the long sides and the short (hip) side of the lower roof.

It’s fall so started having someone clean the gutters. I noticed chipped tile corners everywhere. What is causing them and will they cause leaks?

Should there be more light coming through this roof ridge vent? I’m worried there isn’t enough ventilation.

Hello, I am looking for some advice on what you guys would do in this situation.

We have a concrete tile roof in California, about 35 years old, and live in a hot, dry climate. Over the last 5 years or so, we've had a number of small leaks pop up in different areas. Nothing catastrophic, but between finding the leaks and doing repairs, we're probably averaging a couple thousand dollars a year.

I'm starting to wonder if we're just throwing money at a roof that's reached the point where it makes more sense to replace it. We've had multiple cracked tiles replaced over the years, but several roofers have told us the concrete tiles are actually still in pretty good shape and could potentially last 50 years or longer.

The bigger concern seems to be the underlayment. The house was built around 1990 and apparently they used the cheaper felt underlayment that was common at the time. At 35 years old, I'm assuming it's probably pretty deteriorated at this point. We're also anticipating a pretty rainy winter because of El Niño, which is making me a little more nervous about just continuing to patch things. I was told replacing the tiles would not be that much more expensive than replacing the underlayment only.

So I'm basically looking at three options:

1. Pay for this latest repair and hope we can squeeze another 5–10 years out of the existing roof.
2. Remove the tiles, replace the underlayment, and reinstall the existing concrete tiles.
3. Replace everything, new underlayment and new tile roof.

Hey friends
I did this roof with my good roofer friend
It’s my dog kennel building

It didn’t have any venting before
I ended up cutting out some of the over hang that was boxed in at the back here on the pics

It now continuously vents along the whole 100 plus feet of building at the ridge it’s about 2-3 inches wide

The soffit has nothing. I thought of getting the rectangular type 4x16 or whatever they have at Home Depot and putting one every couple of feet along the length

I know there are calculations for venting
But I’m not sure about in vs out?
Does it matter really? Or is the more the merrier?

Like I said it was never vented and stayed fine

I did stuff a lot more insulation when I had it open
There is space between the insulation and roof decking

I’m just wondering I guess if the ridge will be enough for the air flow

The roof area is about 14 foot wide by 110 feet length

I guess there is around 300 square inches of venting at the ridge now

Hopefully someone can decipher all of this and have some insights

I'm almost 50 and have never purchased a roof that didn't come with a house attached so I just looking for some tips on what to ask, or look for on some upcoming quotes on an asphalt roof. House is from 1982, no clue how old this roof is, I have owned the house for 12 years and it was probably at least a decade old by then. It's in Arizona. Any tips or things to look out for would be appreciated. Is there a quality of shingle I should require a minimum, a certain underlayment? Anything to discuss about the vents?

I'm a super handy DIY guy but never touched a roof.

Hi, a gutter company came to install these yesterday and I don’t know if it is normal for the gutters to end before the end of the fascia. It ends early on both ends of this side of my house. I’m a new homeowner and I don’t know much about gutters or anything but I do know it doesn’t look right. Would it be reasonable to bring this up to the gutter company?

So I have been building a log cabin kit here in Japan and I followed the roof joists (front to back 2x6, not sure if this is the right word) spacing plan according to the kit but the plywood panels don't like up and there is section where the panel joints don't like up.

I should have checked things before putting the joists, but I have installed all the panels and don't want to remove them if I can help it.

Would adding horizontal blocking between the rafters to add support where the joints don't meet work?

The spacing between the joists are 410mm and the plywood panels overhang by about 25cm on one side and 10cm on the other side.

They are well supported from what I can tell but I read online that adding the blocking is a good fix for stopping the panels from saging.

If I really have to I will remove all the panels and re adjust the joists but this is about 3 days of work, I don't want to do if I don't have to.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Had roofers out to replace fascia, soffit and fix some flashing. They've now sent me these photos and are talking about a dry ridge, replacing battens, ventilation and all the felt. It all feels a bit off to me, like I'm being unnecessarily upsold at very least. Any advice/opinions?