This is a tar and gravel flat roof with a drain. If you all think it’s possible, can you point me to any resources for what the assembly material should be?
Is water supposed to drain to the center of the roof or fall off the overhang?
I am in Quebec so there is snow weight to consider during the winter.

So I have been building a log cabin kit here in Japan and I followed the roof joists (front to back 2x6, not sure if this is the right word) spacing plan according to the kit but the plywood panels don't like up and there is section where the panel joints don't like up.

I should have checked things before putting the joists, but I have installed all the panels and don't want to remove them if I can help it.

Would adding horizontal blocking between the rafters to add support where the joints don't meet work?

The spacing between the joists are 410mm and the plywood panels overhang by about 25cm on one side and 10cm on the other side.

They are well supported from what I can tell but I read online that adding the blocking is a good fix for stopping the panels from saging.

If I really have to I will remove all the panels and re adjust the joists but this is about 3 days of work, I don't want to do if I don't have to.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

I had a roofer install a new roof and put in ridge vents. He also installed an attic fan, but for some reason never hooked it up. I later had a siding guy that came through and replaced the soffits and also closed up the front/side gables since he said the soffit plus ridge vents would do the trick.

Later I was walking around my attic and noticed it felt super hot up there, hotter than I would've expected. I noticed that there were no baffles installed so I contacted an attic ventilation company to do an evaluation.

The guy has been in business a long time, probably 25 years and great reviews. His main recommendation was to install baffles to get the air flow up, but he said that ridge vents are not enough to cool the attic. He suggested I hook up the attic fan (already installed by the roofer) to properly ventilate the attic

This is contrary to pretty much everything I have read about the soffits/ridge vents. Is this true? I was kind of surprised that he would say that.

Any feedback is welcome!

Hey friends
I did this roof with my good roofer friend
It’s my dog kennel building

It didn’t have any venting before
I ended up cutting out some of the over hang that was boxed in at the back here on the pics

It now continuously vents along the whole 100 plus feet of building at the ridge it’s about 2-3 inches wide

The soffit has nothing. I thought of getting the rectangular type 4x16 or whatever they have at Home Depot and putting one every couple of feet along the length

I know there are calculations for venting
But I’m not sure about in vs out?
Does it matter really? Or is the more the merrier?

Like I said it was never vented and stayed fine

I did stuff a lot more insulation when I had it open
There is space between the insulation and roof decking

I’m just wondering I guess if the ridge will be enough for the air flow

The roof area is about 14 foot wide by 110 feet length

I guess there is around 300 square inches of venting at the ridge now

Hopefully someone can decipher all of this and have some insights

I'm almost 50 and have never purchased a roof that didn't come with a house attached so I just looking for some tips on what to ask, or look for on some upcoming quotes on an asphalt roof. House is from 1982, no clue how old this roof is, I have owned the house for 12 years and it was probably at least a decade old by then. It's in Arizona. Any tips or things to look out for would be appreciated. Is there a quality of shingle I should require a minimum, a certain underlayment? Anything to discuss about the vents?

I'm a super handy DIY guy but never touched a roof.

Above our entryway, there is a 'flat' section of roof. We had a new roof installed, and the old roof 'curled up' at the house junction and went up the wall about 6 inches. In this case, it looks like it terminates at flashing at the roof to wall connection. (I can't tell if it's new or old flashing) It does look tarred in I suppose, but it's the flashing is a little wavy at spots.

Would someone knowledgeable be able to tell me if this looks like it's appropriately installed? Is flat to flashing acceptable or does it need to roll up the wall 8 inches? I know that in picture 2, there are some loose boards that have slid down. Either they (or I) will nail those back in to place, so don't worry about that.

Thank you so much!

We have final walkthrough coming up, and this is the one thing that I'm not sure if it's right or not.

Also presumably 'properly installed' impacts warrantee (in addition to possible water penetration!).

Damage on a flat membrane roof. I'd like to know what are the options here, sealant mud obviously won't cut it. Any help please??

Bought our house a few months back and in process of redoing roof. It's a 4.5 acre property in the woods off a long driveway. Currently shingles are faded black. I keep going back and forth between Williamsburg Gray, Estate Gray, Pacific Wave, and possibly Onyx Black. I'm open to others if people have suggestions. Ideally need something to make the house pop while also complimenting the trees in background etc.

We can't figure out the tones in Williamsburg and Estate as some show them darker or lighter than each other. Pacific Wave actually is interesting with the blue shutters and off white/muted yellow color of house, but wife is worried it is too busy. I think we will keep the color of the house the same although at some point down the line I'd be open to getting white siding if she wanted.

Any suggestions appreciated!

Hello much more experienced people of Reddit. I had my roof done not too long ago to fix a leaking issue and after the roofing was done it continued to leak. Please ignore the black locite I used to seal the gap between the flashing and roofing, that was done by me. I did it because after placing a hose on my roof so the water goes under the gap i got leaking so i sealed it up. I am wondering if the flashing was installed properly.

Thank you for any info 😀

My question is for and easy fix what can I use to glue the broken cement tile piece back into.place?

My 3 year old house, the soffits (vinyl) rattle and are very noisy in the wind. I had a contractor come out and he discovered that only every other piece is actually nailed in place and the others are just loose in the fascia. Also the returns don't appear to have anything keeping the soffit pieces from lifting way up in the wind and flapping around. Of course, the builder is trying to say this is normal and just the way they do it so that there is room for expansion/contraction. Thoughts that may help me in my response to the builder?

It’s fall so started having someone clean the gutters. I noticed chipped tile corners everywhere. What is causing them and will they cause leaks?

My partner and I are building a shed from scratch. We're both afraid of heights but I'm a bit more comfortable on the roof so I've been doing most of it up there while they gopher.

So, we put a vinyl drip edge on, nailed in the slots, all's well. I'm doing shingles when we realize on the starting side of the runs, I've probably been hitting the vinyl drip edge, so it's nailed too tight for expansion/contraction and not in the slots to boot.

It's a gabled roof, and this is just in the one side where the runs start because of using little pieces to start my offset runs that needed 2 nails in a small space. 5-6 feet on that edge. stopped there with half that side shingles because it got dark.

We live in Toronto, Canada, so pretty big temp shifts between winter and summer and plenty of snow and rain on the year.

What would you recommend?

1. It's just a shed, it'll be fine and if it's not, fix it later

2. Fix it now while you can

If 2, what's the best approach?

• Remove everything on that edge, replace all the shingles and drip edge, and use an asphalt sealant on the sheeting/decking?
• Can I reuse the shingles by sealing the holes?
• Can I reuse the drip edge by sealing the holes?
• Do I need to pull shingles completely or is it fine to bend them up/cut part out to replace?

Any advice is helpful, I don't want or be up on the roof any more than I need to be, but that includes not being up there again in. A year if I can avoid it.

Hi, a gutter company came to install these yesterday and I don’t know if it is normal for the gutters to end before the end of the fascia. It ends early on both ends of this side of my house. I’m a new homeowner and I don’t know much about gutters or anything but I do know it doesn’t look right. Would it be reasonable to bring this up to the gutter company?

Hello, I am looking for some advice on what you guys would do in this situation.

We have a concrete tile roof in California, about 35 years old, and live in a hot, dry climate. Over the last 5 years or so, we've had a number of small leaks pop up in different areas. Nothing catastrophic, but between finding the leaks and doing repairs, we're probably averaging a couple thousand dollars a year.

I'm starting to wonder if we're just throwing money at a roof that's reached the point where it makes more sense to replace it. We've had multiple cracked tiles replaced over the years, but several roofers have told us the concrete tiles are actually still in pretty good shape and could potentially last 50 years or longer.

The bigger concern seems to be the underlayment. The house was built around 1990 and apparently they used the cheaper felt underlayment that was common at the time. At 35 years old, I'm assuming it's probably pretty deteriorated at this point. We're also anticipating a pretty rainy winter because of El Niño, which is making me a little more nervous about just continuing to patch things. I was told replacing the tiles would not be that much more expensive than replacing the underlayment only.

So I'm basically looking at three options:

1. Pay for this latest repair and hope we can squeeze another 5–10 years out of the existing roof.
2. Remove the tiles, replace the underlayment, and reinstall the existing concrete tiles.
3. Replace everything, new underlayment and new tile roof.

Hi all! I’m buying my first home and we must had our inspection yesterday. Overall the inspectors said the roof is in good shape for being 26 years old- but we do know that we’ll need to replace it in the next few years. No evidence of leaks at the time of inspection but the photos I attached do show a small amount of shingle damage and cracked boots around the vent pipes. They also noted the gutters need some maintenance and down spouts need to be reattached in some areas. We’ll get that done at the same time as we fix the other issues.

Just curious what you all think of these findings and about how much something like this would cost overall. They recommended fixing sooner than later, we’d like to just make these smaller repairs and budget for a roof replacement in a year or two.

Thanks!

Had roofers out to replace fascia, soffit and fix some flashing. They've now sent me these photos and are talking about a dry ridge, replacing battens, ventilation and all the felt. It all feels a bit off to me, like I'm being unnecessarily upsold at very least. Any advice/opinions?

Roofing guy said roof would need to be replaced in the next 1-2 years. Is it worth fixing these issues or replacing the roof?

Edit:.Just wanted thoughts on that choice. Roofer guy said roof is almost 20 years old.

Current Downspout has several elbows trying to bypass all different kinds of surface planes. I was thinking that relocating it as shown in photos might be the solution- but I have my doubts. I think it needs to stay where it is-at the end of the gutter run. Unfortunately the side of the house at that location is actually a vinyl clad triangular roof gable wall with no horizontal fascia board. So, when you turn the corner with the elbows it cannot be fastened anywhere -becomes a long length of gutter elbows turning every which way in order to connect to downspout and eventually empty out into the in ground drainage system ( see photo). Didn’t know if someone out there can envision a cleaner solution without so many elbows or a different configuration in the same location. Thanks!

I bought a fixer upper house back at the end of April and have been slowly finding more and more issues. The biggest ones have been the roof and where it meets with stuff like the wall (as pictured) and my chimney.

Recently had some flat roof work done on my Victorian terrace in the UK. The roofer recommended adding a few slate vents lower down on the pitched roof to improve eaves ventilation and prevent loft damp. Sounded sensible, so I went ahead.

The slaters replaced a few slates with vented ones evenly spaced towards the bottom of the pitched roof. To do this, they removed an existing slate in each space and cut through the existing non-breathable underlay membrane, thereafter replacing the old slate with a vented slate over this newly created hole. Today I popped into the loft space to check out the work, and I’m pretty horrified by what I saw.

They’ve literally just hacked rough holes straight through the existing underlay membrane directly behind each vent, leaving the underlay hanging down in various points. I did think they'd need to make some holes, but assumed the underlay would be finished by tucking into the slate / waterproofing it somehow...

A few questions for the trade experts and experienced DIYers here:

1. Is this standard practice? Do you really just chop a hole through the membrane with a utility knife and call it a day?
2. How bad is the execution? The cuts look extremely rough from inside. What should they have done to create a proper weather-tight penetration?
3. Leak risk: If a slate higher up leaks or condensation builds up on the underlay higher up the pitch, won't water running down the membrane drain straight into my loft through these freshly cut holes?
4. How do I fix this without getting rinsed? Do I really need to strip the roof slates and relay the membrane from top to bottom, or is there a valid way to seal/collar this properly from the inside/locally?

Appreciate any advice before I call the roofer back to discuss fixing this mess. Photos attached in comments! Have currently paid him around 60% of the bill so hoping I can leverage the remaining to get him to sort it out if needed.