Hi there.

Friend of mine has been a valve tech for over 50 years. He builds really nice amps. I own a PR from him and an AC10 style amp. Both really fantastic amps.

These are 2 x 10 watt 6G2 clones basically. Handwired. Uses some recycled parts, but it's a scratch build.

The main issue is the cab being plywood. I think it makes it look a bit cheap and does a disservice to how nice the amp sounds. Was thinking it needs a varnish or lacquer of some kind.

Just wondering if anyone has any recommendations for a varnish technique or a way to make this plywood look better? He's hoping to sell these from between $1000-$1500 australian dollars. ($700-$1000 USD). Which I think is reasonable if it were to have a nice varnish to take the edge off the ply.

Alternatively sell it cheaper not worry as much. But I think it's worth trying to make the ply look a bit better.

Thoughts?

Good lord, is this thing a ton of amp. Sounds so good straight in, gonna experiment w/ the 4 cable method for running my fx. Any tips from any Peavey folks out there?

I was watching this video and noticed a comment about replacing the 2 watt resistors, they didn't mention swapping anything else and was wondering if simply swapping these 3 resistors is a viable mod or if the rest of the plexi mod is required too.

I built this amp kit from Mojo about 4 years ago. Got furloughed and had to go back to school. I'm just getting back to it now. I added a 10k so I can set bias. Does this look OK? The amp has worked well since building, but I wanted to be able to adjust the bias in the future. First amp build, so I'm sure it doesn't look amazing. Thanks ahead of time!

It’s a laboga The beast 15w. I’ve had this amp for some years now and yesterday it stopped working. I was playing and the volume lowered itself to zero and hasn’t made a sound since. I’ve tried changing the speaker output, I’ve tried a different speaker too. The amp turns on, but there is no sound.

I have 4 amps running through an Ampete 442 which has the option to turn on and off the fx loop feature. I’m having an issue with my 6505+ head where when I engage the fx loop or switch to that amp with the loop on I get a nasty pop. I’ve tried moving other amps into that same position without any issue. So far I’ve only tried cleaning the send and return jacks with deoxit d5. I’m going to try changing out the preamp tube next (V5?) and if that doesn’t work I’ll let it sit for a while before I crack it open to check the board. Has anyone else had issues with the loop popping? If so please let me know what I should look for. Thanks

I’ve always service my own amps. 5150s, jcm800, fender hot rod, mesa mark v (total nightmare). But I have an idea and I wonder how plausible it may be. I’d like to build a modern high gain amp that’s not another marshall or Soldano based circuit. I ideally would like to have a power section that’s something like a 50 watt or 100 watt KT77 or KT88 super high fi sounding and transparent like a McIntosh tube power amp for home stereo systems. And the preamp would have an active EQ with non linear gain staging. Essentially it would be like a clean hifi power amp and preamp in one unit. Is this even feasible? I kind of just want to attempt as an experiment.

Hi all, troubleshooting "broadband noise" on my Hot Rod Deluxe iii ("static" from 0-5kHz). My symptoms are:

1. Noise present in clean channel from vol 0

2. Noise present in drive channel once turned up (I suspect drive pot controls this)

3. Plugging straight into "POWER AMP IN" completely erases the noise

Using my scope I've verified clean signal all the way up until TP7 (valve 2 input). At TP8 I have roughly 5mV P-P noise. I've tried 2 new valves and used contact cleaner in the connector, same results, same noise :(

My "power amp in eliminating noise" symptom supports the noise is coming from the preamp/this area of the circuit but for the life of me I cannot figure out where or what it is in this part of the circuit. After all this I thought maybe a power issue to the bottom pcb with the valves+tubes the speaker sounds perfectly OK.

Any ideas appreciated!

I have a Supro Delta King 10 and a 10-inch 30 watt Celestion Alnico Gold sitting on the shelf. I recently got to wondering if the 5-watt amp could drive that speaker to good result. Anyone try something like that already?

Today, I turned on my Fender Pro Junior 4 and after 30ish minutes noticed a slight smokey smell. I turned off the amp immediately, and after further inspection, it seems to be coming from the tubes. When I lean it forward so that the vents face more upward, the smell is stronger. I've never noticed this before, and after I let it sit for a while and turned it back on, I noticed it again. My tubes don't seem to be red plating. On some other posts, it's been said that it's sorta part of owning a tube amp. However, like I said, I've never noticed it before. The last time I used it before this was yesterday evening. Right now it's off and unplugged. I'm not very knowledgeable on tube amps. What do I do??

Edit: I went back and tried it and I didn't smell it, only felt the warmth. If it makes any difference, it was cranked to 12.

Anyone ever take the schematic off the page and build from mouser ordering the ot and chassis from Ceriatone?

Didn’t get any help on this over at guitaramps so reposting here. Can anyone help with my question?

So, I'm working on an amp based on the Mesa Boogie D-180. The official schematics of the circuitry are available outside of the power supply. The first and second included images are the two pages of the schematic. At some point, I found a schematic of the Power Amp circuitry, but I can't find the source image for that at the moment.

Nonetheles, I am trying to work on the power supply. All my searching leads me back to this talkbass forum post where people allege that the power supply from the Bass 400 is compatible with the D-180. The third included image is the schematic of the Bass 400 power supply.

My problem is that the positive power rails don't line up voltage-wise. In the attached schematics, you can see that tubes 3 and 4 from the D-180 use a 430 volt rail. Tubes 1 and 2 also use a 455 volt rail labelled "D". But if you look at the Bass 400 power supply schematic, you can see that after the 535 volt B rail, the C rail goes down to 370 volts. Neither a 455 nor 430 volt rails seem to be present in the Bass 400.

Additionally, tube 4 utilizes -56 volts of negative Bias power, but the negative bias voltage on the Bass 400 is -63 volts.

The specs *do* line up on other fronts. For example, the 6L6 Power Amp circuitry shows that it uses a 540 volt rail labelled "A", which is exactly what's present on the Bass 400 PSU. Also, the heating filaments for the various tubes use 6.3 volts AC, which is also there on the Bass 400.

Is there something I'm misunderstanding here?

If you have any to offer, I thank you for your guidance.

I'm working on a circuit inspired by the Mesa Boogie D-180.

Input 1 is meant for lead, while input 2 is meant for bass.

Point 1 is definitely going from the tip of Input 2 to the circuit.

Points 2 and 6 are going to ground from the connection ground/sleeve.

What I'm confused about is points 3, 4, and 5.

The trace from point 4 has an "n" with an arrow pointing to it, which makes me think that it's the 'normal' output from a switching connector. Then what does that make points 3 and 5? If point 3 was going to the sleeve, why isn't it going to the the Input 1 symbol itself like the ground connection does? Or is it a switched sleeve connection? If that's the case, then it makes sense that point 5 is the non-normal tip connection. If point 3 goes to tip, then what does that make point 5?

Thank you for any suggestions

It’s not my own phone- I put it in airplane mode for hours, nothing.

Even when the guitar isn’t plugged in, it does this.

I do live in an apartment building, so could it be my neighbors? Any ideas on how to fix this? Apologies for the newbie questions.

Starting to think it can’t be fixed.