Kia K4 LXS

This is a deal from Ohio and I’m confused where 703 government fee comes from. This is BS fee right? And the numbers don’t even add up so I feel like even thought it was good offer they weren’t going to honor it once I walked into the dealership. They wanted to lock me into financing through there bank at 7.5 percent APR which is fine because I probably could have just refinance through my union but still. Feels like I made mistake by not taking it.

Edit: Y’all need to learn how to fucking read. I already said I already planned to refinance. My union was going to give me 5.19 @ 60 month and 4.89 at 48

Debating between these two SUVs and can’t decide what to go with.

Both have cut and dry engines/transmissions. No CVT or Turbo.

Both come with decent features, but realistically i can get a newer sportage with less miles and cheaper.

Anyone have any experience with either vehicles in the 2023+ range?

I’m looking to buy a used car that’s about 2–3 years old, and I’ve contacted around five dealerships that had the spec I’m looking for.

Pretty much every dealer has told me that the online advertised price is already their best price and there’s little to no room to negotiate. The most I’ve been able to get is confirmation that there won’t be any dealer add-ons, just the normal taxes and fees.

Is this pretty much the standard now for used cars? With everyone shopping and comparing prices online, do dealerships just advertise their lowest price from the start so their cars show up competitively in searches?

I know there can still be a decent amount of negotiation on new cars depending on the model, but are 2–3-year-old used cars mostly priced to sell with very little negotiating room these days?

Also, saying you'll pay cash today IF you can get me to x price doesn't work either because they'd rather you finance with them so they interest off you too...

Curious what people who have bought used recently are experiencing.

Got a 20 year old Volvo S80 D5 that I daily. Nearing 250k miles.

To cut to the chase, it's not in a good state despite my best efforts at repairing it and keeping up with maintenance. A financial sink hole. I think it's worth $2k right now with some $10k spent on repairs since 2019. It's due another $3k in repairs by next August for engine problems, electric gremlins, suspension wear, new windscreen, rust in wheel arch and fuel cap now.

I've been thinking of jumping ship, or jumping car in this case? Looked around on the used market and it's diabolical. Shitboxes that'd give me depression if I drove daily cost a fortune and anything that interests me is beyond what I can afford.

So my heart's telling me to stick with it, don't give up cause it's a very sentimental car too but everyone around me has sort of given up on it, even my mechanic, who of course doesn't complain that I pay him but he said to me he'd have cut the losses the first time I came to him some 5 years ago.

Guess I'm looking for mindset advice. People on Reddit have said to me the devil you know is better than the one you don't ie buying a new old used car but I feel like I'm just digging a bigger hole. I mean I could have taken out a new car load all those 7 years ago and I'd be driving something far newer with potentially less problems.

So yea, how do I figure out if I've got Stockholm syndrome to my car and what might be the better ways going forwards.

Should I consider looking at this vehicle? This is the ad:"True 1 owner grandma’s car for sell. Most options pw/pdl/p mirrors/tilt steering/ A/FM CD Bluetooth connection to your phones/ voice set up/ magnesium steering gear selectors/speed sensitive delay wipers/rear defrost/heat & AC/center digital info screen/everything is working perfectly nothing is wrong. This SUV has Mitsubishi’s most reliable 2.0L 4cyl engine they have been making it for over 25 years, and the maintenances are all current.

Always used Mobil One full synthetic oil, transmission fluid has been changed in 2025, serpentine belt & brakes changed 2024, tires are in excellent condition. Engine is in original condition, never been washed, so that you can tell if there is any leaks.clean title, have all the books and original sticker." This vehicle has 65,000 miles

He is pricing at $7,700? Do you believe this is a reasonable price for this car? Is this model known for being reliable and lasting?

Hi I recently wanted to buy a used car, it is a hyundai i10
I loved the car, but one thing I noticed was that the steering wheel jitters when I try to steer fully (fully locked to left or right both)

Is this normal? the dealer told me it is normal for such a small car, when I told him I had a VW polo, and it never happened with that, or any other cars I drive.

This is my first time driving such a small car, so I got no idea if this is legit or they just trying to hide that fact.

Can someone with good car knowledge please help me :)

To start, I know fuck all about cars in general, and have never owned one before, this would be my first.

I've done some research on the '08 automatic 5-speed Fits myself, and figure that if I change out the ignition coils and spark plugs ASAP, spray the spare tire well (and common leakage areas) with silicone, and possibly draining and then refilling the transmission fluid, that I would be making a good first used vehicle purchase. I would also be doing some other basic maintenance, like undercoating and changing the oil.

Does this seem like a good idea for $3600 CAD? Are there any other things I should look out for? Thanks a bunch!

As the title says I am looking for a truck. I wanna spend about 12-15k on one. I want preferably a 4cyl. Worst case scenario I get a 6cyl that is ultimately good on gas. Preferably four door. My options are Toyota Tacoma, Nissan Frontier, or maybe Ford Ranger. I don't know shit about trucks and would like some recommendations of trucks I should look at. Also what would be considered "good" mileage and what is not. I currently drive a scion tc and it currently needs some work done on it and would like something bigger and not two door lol. I am leaning more towards a truck because i rather have one and not need it than not have one and need one. Any recommendations would be great as said before. Thanks in advance.

I’m planning on doing fairly heavy DoorDash and other driving apps. I have to drive to the nearest city to do so which will add another 70 miles/day round trip on top of however many miles I put on per day doing the apps. My budget is $5500. There’s loads of options in Tucson for cars so I wanted to ask advice on what would be the best model and a good mileage target so I can narrow my choices. ChatGPT for whatever it’s worth was saying that, given my desire to do driving apps, to go for Corollas and Civics basically, as theyll have the most life left in them and are cheap to repair and have decent MPG. But I just wanted to check here too, since there’s a lot of Kias and Hyundais and Chevy Malibus that are more recent (2015s etc. compared to a lot of 2010s or even older for the corollas) and also have less miles sometimes. Like if I go Corolla I’m probably looking at a 2010 with 150k miles, but I could also do a 2015 Optima with 100k miles. But ChatGPT was saying to avoid the Kias as theyre notorious for sudden engine failure above 100k, or something like that? Anyway yeah, if anyone had advice it would be much appreciated.

I am so mad at Facebook for letting car dealers misuse the marketplace for used cars. Everyone knows people go on marketplace for a better priced used cars. But, when I go on marketplace all I see is brand new cars listed as 2000$ which is recommended down payment.

Who the Fuck is coming to your dealership seeing this bro?? If they want something like that they'll come to the dealership they wouldn't be going on marketplace.

And most of the other listings are rebuilt cars bought from auctions and fixed cheaply to increase the profit and people who does this are always shady people.

If I as a owner post a car for some reasonable amount.

These dealers keep messaging me asking to come to their dealership with the car for a good price and when I go there surprise surprise, they lowballs so hard you'll start to rethink all the life choices you made and wanna die on the spot.

Anyway I'm looking to buy used car at reasonable or best price from a owner, any suggestions how I can find such deals directly as the marketplace is swarmed by misleading, manipulating and shady dealers.

Is this a good car? Ill get a carfax and do a PPI. Is it generally a good reliable car? And is this price fair? I live in michigan. Would greatly appreciate your input as my experience with cars isnt vast and i cant really afford to get a car and have it bail on me. Thanks in advance!

Sorry if this has been asked before. I'm looking to buy a car from a private party for the first time. I'm using FB marketplace, and prices are everywhere. Some vehicles are being sold at $2k with 200k+ miles and some are being sold at $2k with only around 150k. In your guys experience, are there usually more irregularities on the vehicles that look like a better deal on paper?

Beyond this, any general tips on what to look for and questions to ask? Important parts of the frame to inspect for rust? How to tell when rust is too much? I know some of this won't be easy to answer without specific makes and models, but any advice is appreciated.

Hi everyone,

I'm looking for a reliable A-to-B car with the following specs:

Year:2017-2019

Mileage:Under 140,000 km (the lower, the better)

Location:Ontario

The used car prices here seem crazy right now. I compared with what my friends paid for very similar cars/specs in 2022/23, and I'm being quoted almost double , even after adjusting for inflation.

Can anyone tell me what a realistic price range should be for this type of car right now? Just trying to set a proper budget.

Thanks in advance!

I’m looking at a used car and came across ClarityCheck while researching VIN checks. I’m familiar with the basic VIN decoder stuff, but I’m wondering how useful their vehicle history report actually is. For anyone who’s used it, what kind of information did the report show? Did you find anything useful that you wouldn’t normally get from a standard VIN decoder?

Just trying to figure out if it’s worth paying for before I buy the car.

1 owner
0 accidents
78k mile

Car details: 2016 Maruti Suzuki Alto 800 VXI Petrol Manual 1st owner 42,971 km driven 796cc engine Registered in RJ-14 (Jaipur) Location: Mansarovar, Jaipur Cars24-owned stock

Price details: Base price: ₹2,11,740 RC transfer: ₹10,000 Warranty: ₹0 (12 months shown) Servicing charges: ₹0 Total drive-away price: ₹2,21,740 (~₹2.22 lakh)

Cars24's inspection report says: No accident history No odometer tampering No water damage 300-point quality checks They claim the car is in perfect condition

How much should I ask if I want to sell this 9th gen corolla manual driven around 100k. Its MH registration

I’m looking to spend no more than 20k on an SUV. Doesn’t have to be three row, but definitely a plus. I need it to be reliable and have good gas mileage. I’m not expecting anything super luxurious, but at least up to date features (apple carplay, blind spot monitors, reverse camera, heated seats etc). Wouldn’t want anything super old either, probably 2016-2022. My wife and I recently had a baby so we need a bigger and safer car. I don’t know much about SUV’s so any suggestions/advice are greatly appreciated

I am going to be selling my 2015 Fit soon. Wanted to know a good value on this car.

I was going to list it at around 9k let me know if I am crazy. KBB is around $10,500 don’t want to rip anyone off but I don’t wanna rip myself off lol.

It has 101k miles

Unfortunately there is a moderate damage on the car fax but was fixed professionally

I am the second owner

It has the infamous VTC grinding issue no surprise from my research.

Besides all that it is mint cold A/C no warning lights.

I am in Michigan near 48195