Kia K4 LXS

This is a deal from Ohio and I’m confused where 703 government fee comes from. This is BS fee right? And the numbers don’t even add up so I feel like even thought it was good offer they weren’t going to honor it once I walked into the dealership. They wanted to lock me into financing through there bank at 7.5 percent APR which is fine because I probably could have just refinance through my union but still. Feels like I made mistake by not taking it.

Edit: Y’all need to learn how to fucking read. I already said I already planned to refinance. My union was going to give me 5.19 @ 60 month and 4.89 at 48

I’m looking to buy a used car that’s about 2–3 years old, and I’ve contacted around five dealerships that had the spec I’m looking for.

Pretty much every dealer has told me that the online advertised price is already their best price and there’s little to no room to negotiate. The most I’ve been able to get is confirmation that there won’t be any dealer add-ons, just the normal taxes and fees.

Is this pretty much the standard now for used cars? With everyone shopping and comparing prices online, do dealerships just advertise their lowest price from the start so their cars show up competitively in searches?

I know there can still be a decent amount of negotiation on new cars depending on the model, but are 2–3-year-old used cars mostly priced to sell with very little negotiating room these days?

Also, saying you'll pay cash today IF you can get me to x price doesn't work either because they'd rather you finance with them so they interest off you too...

Curious what people who have bought used recently are experiencing.

I bought this car as my next project but times are getting hard so I came here to see if anyone is interested in a project car. It’s a 2017 Dodge Charger Pursuit 5.7 liter V8 RWD. There was originally 151,900 miles documented on the chassis and body. I just installed a Grade A 5.7 replacement motor with 51,034 miles on it looking for $18,000. The motor also comes with a 6 month warranty that I have receipts for showing you original miles. If interested send me a message. Buyer will be responsible for shipping

I'm looking at buying this 2020 Nissan Titan and want to get a pre-purchase inspection (PPI) done. The dealer said they offer two options:

Used car inspection – $320: the same inspection they do on trade-ins before putting them on their own lot (more thorough)

Basic inspection – $160: less thorough

The truck has one owner, no accidents, and under 100k miles. Given that history, would the cheaper $160 inspection cover what I need, or is the $320 one worth it anyway?

Hi everyone,

I'm looking for a reliable A-to-B car with the following specs:

Year:2017-2019

Mileage:Under 140,000 km (the lower, the better)

Location:Ontario

The used car prices here seem crazy right now. I compared with what my friends paid for very similar cars/specs in 2022/23, and I'm being quoted almost double , even after adjusting for inflation.

Can anyone tell me what a realistic price range should be for this type of car right now? Just trying to set a proper budget.

Thanks in advance!

There's something satisfying about seeing an older car with 100k miles still running reliably after years on the road. A lot of that comes down to staying ahead of maintenance and knowing which repairs are worth investing in over the long run. Sometimes replacing one worn component at the right time can add years to your car's lifespan. For those driving higher-mileage cars or trucks, what's one maintenance habit you never skip?

Got a 20 year old Volvo S80 D5 that I daily. Nearing 250k miles.

To cut to the chase, it's not in a good state despite my best efforts at repairing it and keeping up with maintenance. A financial sink hole. I think it's worth $2k right now with some $10k spent on repairs since 2019. It's due another $3k in repairs by next August for engine problems, electric gremlins, suspension wear, new windscreen, rust in wheel arch and fuel cap now.

I've been thinking of jumping ship, or jumping car in this case? Looked around on the used market and it's diabolical. Shitboxes that'd give me depression if I drove daily cost a fortune and anything that interests me is beyond what I can afford.

So my heart's telling me to stick with it, don't give up cause it's a very sentimental car too but everyone around me has sort of given up on it, even my mechanic, who of course doesn't complain that I pay him but he said to me he'd have cut the losses the first time I came to him some 5 years ago.

Guess I'm looking for mindset advice. People on Reddit have said to me the devil you know is better than the one you don't ie buying a new old used car but I feel like I'm just digging a bigger hole. I mean I could have taken out a new car load all those 7 years ago and I'd be driving something far newer with potentially less problems.

So yea, how do I figure out if I've got Stockholm syndrome to my car and what might be the better ways going forwards.

I’m planning on doing fairly heavy DoorDash and other driving apps. I have to drive to the nearest city to do so which will add another 70 miles/day round trip on top of however many miles I put on per day doing the apps. My budget is $5500. There’s loads of options in Tucson for cars so I wanted to ask advice on what would be the best model and a good mileage target so I can narrow my choices. ChatGPT for whatever it’s worth was saying that, given my desire to do driving apps, to go for Corollas and Civics basically, as theyll have the most life left in them and are cheap to repair and have decent MPG. But I just wanted to check here too, since there’s a lot of Kias and Hyundais and Chevy Malibus that are more recent (2015s etc. compared to a lot of 2010s or even older for the corollas) and also have less miles sometimes. Like if I go Corolla I’m probably looking at a 2010 with 150k miles, but I could also do a 2015 Optima with 100k miles. But ChatGPT was saying to avoid the Kias as theyre notorious for sudden engine failure above 100k, or something like that? Anyway yeah, if anyone had advice it would be much appreciated.

Should I consider looking at this vehicle? This is the ad:"True 1 owner grandma’s car for sell. Most options pw/pdl/p mirrors/tilt steering/ A/FM CD Bluetooth connection to your phones/ voice set up/ magnesium steering gear selectors/speed sensitive delay wipers/rear defrost/heat & AC/center digital info screen/everything is working perfectly nothing is wrong. This SUV has Mitsubishi’s most reliable 2.0L 4cyl engine they have been making it for over 25 years, and the maintenances are all current.

Always used Mobil One full synthetic oil, transmission fluid has been changed in 2025, serpentine belt & brakes changed 2024, tires are in excellent condition. Engine is in original condition, never been washed, so that you can tell if there is any leaks.clean title, have all the books and original sticker." This vehicle has 65,000 miles

He is pricing at $7,700? Do you believe this is a reasonable price for this car? Is this model known for being reliable and lasting?

Sorry if this has been asked before. I'm looking to buy a car from a private party for the first time. I'm using FB marketplace, and prices are everywhere. Some vehicles are being sold at $2k with 200k+ miles and some are being sold at $2k with only around 150k. In your guys experience, are there usually more irregularities on the vehicles that look like a better deal on paper?

Beyond this, any general tips on what to look for and questions to ask? Important parts of the frame to inspect for rust? How to tell when rust is too much? I know some of this won't be easy to answer without specific makes and models, but any advice is appreciated.

Debating between these two SUVs and can’t decide what to go with.

Both have cut and dry engines/transmissions. No CVT or Turbo.

Both come with decent features, but realistically i can get a newer sportage with less miles and cheaper.

Anyone have any experience with either vehicles in the 2023+ range?

1 owner
0 accidents
78k mile

I’m looking to spend no more than 20k on an SUV. Doesn’t have to be three row, but definitely a plus. I need it to be reliable and have good gas mileage. I’m not expecting anything super luxurious, but at least up to date features (apple carplay, blind spot monitors, reverse camera, heated seats etc). Wouldn’t want anything super old either, probably 2016-2022. My wife and I recently had a baby so we need a bigger and safer car. I don’t know much about SUV’s so any suggestions/advice are greatly appreciated

Is this a good car? Ill get a carfax and do a PPI. Is it generally a good reliable car? And is this price fair? I live in michigan. Would greatly appreciate your input as my experience with cars isnt vast and i cant really afford to get a car and have it bail on me. Thanks in advance!

I am going to be selling my 2015 Fit soon. Wanted to know a good value on this car.

I was going to list it at around 9k let me know if I am crazy. KBB is around $10,500 don’t want to rip anyone off but I don’t wanna rip myself off lol.

It has 101k miles

Unfortunately there is a moderate damage on the car fax but was fixed professionally

I am the second owner

It has the infamous VTC grinding issue no surprise from my research.

Besides all that it is mint cold A/C no warning lights.

I am in Michigan near 48195