Having a killer Sunday ride out in the hills when I get a damn screw in my tire. Unfortunately I didn’t have anything to fix the tire so I limped it as close as I could to home then called my dad for a lift to my house.

I have the Mosko Reckless 80 luggage, and am trying to mount it on my WR. Mine did not come with passenger pegs, so it's missing the obvious tie-down point. Should I pick up a pair of passenger peg mounts, or is something like the [Mosko Cleat Kit](https://moskomoto.com/collections/hardware-parts/products/cleat-kit) adequate for where the passenger pegs would normally go? Or would you place the cleat kit elsewhere?

Backstory: Bought a dirt cheap 2008 Wr250r a couple weeks ago as a little project. Only notable mod is a safari tank. Dude was a long distance truck driver 2nd owner that kept it on his truck to ride around town short distances, but he bought a new bike and after that it was rode very infrequently mostly sitting.

What I've done so far:

So, it was running but rode like shit. Did some basics: Replaced fuel pump, clutch cable, chain & sprocket, and did fluids. Battery is at 12.6. Fuel line seems fine.

Bikes running great now. Seemingly as it should. Power delivery and shifting feels good, rode it around for hours to see if anything happened held up just fine.

The Idling Mystery:

I have one lingering issue, which is idling. The bike will idle 1.5-3ish minutes and then cuts out. Pretty random how long it lasts.

Threw it in CO mode, changing those settings didn't really help. Bike will pretty quickly drop to about 1000-1100RPM where it struggles hang on for a bit then eventually cuts out.

I have a new fuel pressure regulator coming Monday because i want to rule that out. Also just recently thought about checking the manual idle adjuster just to be sure.

I do my own work but I'm no expert. Part of this was for the learning experience lol. So I can absoutely being missing obvious shit.

Was just looking for advice on things to check, other possibilities, if I'm the right track etc. All advice is greatly appreciated really want to figure this bullshit out.

FIXED: Im not 100% what did it but just wanted to write what steps i took, if someone sees the down the line because this had me very confused

Obviously oil change

Fuel pump and regulator improved the situation greatly but did not fix the idling problem

Changed battery, while the battery appeared fine on multimeter, interestingly on battery diag test it was slightly below where it should be so I said fuck it let's just be safe

Changed air filter and cleaned airbox as well as the openings as deep as I could without removing. I think this was a pretty big factor i think their might have been a carbon build up as it was little dirty. Which would be logical that this may have been an airflow problem. Luckily didn't have to take it all apart.

I had a dump line in my safari tank that was not in its ideal location. Didn't seem to be a culprit but I'm sure that didn't help. Easy thing to miss.

After all this stuff i ran through all diag tests which I hadn't done in awhile everything seemed to be fine so I was like "huh".

So I tried the manual adjuster screw again which previously didn't seem to have an effect and it worked correctly. Was able to readjust my idle RPM and fix the problem.

Also pro tip on that adjuster screw because i was fucking with it so much, you can get some sweet angles from the left side of the bike to have just enough room where the rubber normally sits to undo the nut and if undo the back two bolts of your tank you can totally move the screw with a metal coat hanger. Which is conveniently pretty much the same girth as a 2.5mm allen. Very useful so you can turn the bike and fine tune. I looked everywhere for a trick to do this and didn't see anything so I hope that helps someone lol.

these bikes have some power when set up right hahaha

i was leaning forward too and it popped a wheelie when i got into 2nd gear

im still learning how to ride so this is pretty excitiing. i definitely think i could do some real wheelies on this thing once i get more comfortable on it

I have a Stumpjumper evo élite alloy 2023, with cascade link and vivid coil d1. I mostly use the bike at bike park and rowdy enduro local trail.

I was thinking about going mullet, to give at the bike more agility at the rear end and have more fun out of the bike at bike park.

So because i have cc link (and i will not remote it) the only way seems to put the wrp yoke , correct?

I read that the wrp restore the 29-29 geo with mullet set up, and it’s all? Does the wrp add some travel? Because i don’t want to.

And most important thing : what if i leave the wrp with 29 rear wheels? Thers’s some important change? Negative or positive?

Thanks

Long time wr250r rider. I’ve been riding mostly dual sport (logging roads/jeep trails). But my interests are leaning more towards trail riding. I’ve been riding single track and quad trails on my wr250r (still fairly new to trail riding) but I’m wanting something lighter.
I’ve been considering going to a 250 2 stroke (because they’re light) but I worry that I’ll have to relearn how to ride since a 2 strokes power delivery is much different than that of a 4 stroke, especially a wr250r.
I’ve also been looking at a wr250f, which is going to be heavier than the 2 strokes but still about 45lbs lighter than the wr250r and will retain that 4 stroke power delivery that I’m used to.
So for those of you who ride the wr250r, but also ride a non-platted dirt bike, what do you recommend someone like me buy for my first dirt bike?

Had to replace/refill rear brake reservoir after the rear pad came apart and did some damage.
It feels like I have air in the rear brake caliper. No brake fluid leaks. I can get the rear wheel to lock but the travel seems way to far. I think there is still air in the line or caliper. Anyone have suggestions how to clear air in rear caliper or line?
Can I stand it up on the back tire? Will the air go out through the master cylinder?
Bleeding rear brake it seems like there always a tiny bit if bubbles. But I have used half a liter of brake fluid and still bubbles.
I'm doing something wrong, send help.

Bought a 2017 WRR about 2 months ago and I love it but it has the FMF powercore 4 and it’s honestly just obnoxiously loud. Looking for something quieter but it’s hard to find anything in stock online. I’m willing to pay and figure out shipping if anyone bites.

Looking at a 2016 wr250r with about 4400 miles. Has some mods I would make myself, including 3 gallon gas tank, new seat, exhaust, and rear rack. Asking $4,800. Would be a second bike to compliment my larger adventure bike. Is this a pretty good deal? Is there anything I should look for?

I'm looking to get the IMS 4.7 tank but I really want graphics, I've seen the DMK Designs kits but can't find any photos. Can you share a photo of your 4.7 tank with graphics?

Hey yall. I am currently running a 13/47 sprocket combo. I enjoy it much better than the stock 13/43. I am currently running tusk d sport adventure tires. A 90/90/21 front and 130/90/18 in the rear. I wanted to try the 130 out and I am not a fan so I will be switching back to a 120. Before I had dunlop d606 tires in the same size I have in the tusk now, and they seemed to be much lighter and more nimble. Upon switching to the tusk, the bike felt more sluggish and lost about 3-5 mph top speed wise. Once I switch to the 120 tusk tire and see how it feels, I am also contemplating going up to a 50 tooth sprocket in the rear. I ride highway every now and then but am trying to get as much pull from the bike as possible. I have all the standard power mods, full fmf exhaust, fuel programmer, hi flow air filter, flapper box mod, and weight reduction such as AIS delete, charcoal canister delete, tail tidy, smaller front flashers etc. I would like to hear yalls input on 13/50 gearing with similar power mods and how it rides on the highway. Worst case scenario I can always switch back to the 47. Any input would be appreciated!

Edit: After changing the rear tire to a 120/90/18 from a 130/90/18, and 13/47 sprockets to 13/50, I was able to hit 79 mph gps verified today. Probably could have pushed to 80. The bike is definitely up there in rpms at 70 mph. Wouldn’t want to run it at that speed for too long but for short highway trips it doesn’t bother me. 60-65 mph is much more comfortable. I like the torque and acceleration better with the 50 tooth and the bike is much more nimble and feels lighter with the 120 tire. Much easier to navigate ruts and tricker single track with as well.

I have recently bought a brand new wr250f and want to keep the bike in best possible condition, what are the recommended intervals in kms for services ect, and are there any extra steps i can ask for when getting it serviced to make sure my bike is healthy.

Hello everyone,

On my wr 450 f the clutch was stuck to the shaft as the title suggested. The clutch suddenly engaged after a drive in high temp, and didnt let go since then. i found the problem, but also not really.

I have openend up my bike and after removing the crank case and the insides of the clutch i could lift the clutch itself off. It was somehow tightenend to the shaft, but i dont know why. Because after i removed the clutch, and put it back, everything seems to be working again. the shaft moves freely without noise or resistance without clinging on to the clutch.

my issue is that i dont know why it became stuck in the first place, and im afraid it will happen again. its a road bike, this is very dangerous. If you have any idea why this happened pls let me know as i have no idea and the manual doesnt help me anymore either. my first question would be whether the copper colored plates (pic 2)on the insides are fitted with bearings? but i have no clue what else the problem could be. any comment or help is appreciated!

thanks in advance

My Yamaha WR250x 2008 when sat outside in the sun for hours on very hot 30+ degrees days the fuel pump doesn't prime and the bike doesn't start. Once I leave it to cool down the bike starts on the button no issues at all I hear the pump prime. I have been warned this is the start of a bigger problem and the fuel pump will fail all together at some point and is risky to keep using. The WR250x and WR250r are known for failing fuel pumps and apparently have two updated pumps released after the known issues with the original fuel pumps.

I'm in the UK and it seems impossible to find a pump I contacted a local Yamaha parts dealer and they want £597.00.

Options -

1. OEM Fuel pump and housing - £597.00 Yamaha UK.

2. Buy pump only - Quantum, KEMSO, or All Balls and try to put into original housing I understand it could be brittle not easy to do and plastic housing could snap.

3. Replace with the Chinese Fuel pump unsure about that and can't find much information online regarding success.

4. Import new from Japan around £320.00 before shipping and 20% UK taxes and handling fees etc.

5. Buy a Chinese Fuel pump and replace it with a better fuel pump like Quantum if I snap the original housing. Unsure how easy or different that would be and even if it's worth the hassle.

6. Buy used working fuel pump rare to find and seems impossible to ship due to fuel contamination.

Honestly what have people done and honest advice?

2015 but acquired about 2 years ago. It was stolen last year and I got it back and swapped the ignition. The noise has been happening for a few months now, getting worse and I don’t want to ignore it for it to become detrimental. Don’t know much about mechanics so pictures, drawings, descriptive language is very helpful. Here’s the video for reference. Thank you for any and all help.

Obviously the radiator and things of that nature need to be replaced but the odometer won’t turn on and the bike won’t crank. I’m not sure if that broken cable I grab in the beginning is for the brake light? I can’t really see anything else that would be causing the screen not to come on, the individual wires seem to be okay. Im going to pull the radiator off later to see if any of the wires are damaged behind there but if anyone could give me any advice or help it would be greatly appreciated. Pretty torn apart about this. My wr was my baby :(

bought my first legal bike, been riding mx since im really young and never left honda or yamaha tbh..got my liscence and just bought my wr250 with 3k miles from an older guy only owner. Got tips or advice for a new wr250 rider? :)

Hello friends, i have recently purchased a 2017 wr250r. I am excited and can't wait to start taking it out in the woods.

This is my first DS and it has been sitting at the previous owners garage for long time. I want to work on the bike like all fluid changes, tier removal and new tier installation etc.

Can you please suggest list of tools and items I need to work on the bike.

Thanks in advance.

Had my WR sitting in my garage and maybe took it out once in the last 4-6 months with no issues. Went to try to take it out and it started just fine but after 1 second it shut off. Everything sounds fine but it just won’t start. I put in new fuel, charged the battery, make sure it was in neutral, made sure it wasn’t the kickstand kill switch, changed the spark plug, but nothing.

A quick google said maybe the fuel injector is clogged but of course 1 of the screws stripped so checking that out isn’t an option for now.

Any other ideas?

Used cardboard for first drafts and transferred measurements to cad with millimeter paper. Water cut plate and bracket from 2mm stainless steel. Seems to be holding up well, might change nuts to nylocks at some point

Hi all, I don't have a lot of experience with maintaining forks. I had the seals rebuilt about a year ago and have put about 2000miles on the bike since. I have hit a few jumps and a few curbs and have been using the bike as I assume it was intended. I do practice quite a few wheelies. At least a couple per ride. Only the right side is leaking oil and I don't see any nicks or anything on the shock itself. Did I blow it already? Is there anything I can do to make it last longer other than not wheelie...

Hey yall. I bought my 2019 wrr used with 3,700 miles. The whole time since I have owned it, the clutch pull has always seemed to grab. The clutch lever itself is an aftermarket asv lever. I inspected it and it seems fine. I figured the previous owner just didn’t keep up with lubing the cable. So I ordered a new clutch cable, installed it with no pinch points in the routing and the clutch pull feels better but ultimately the same. I have an oil change due in about 700 miles. While Im doing that I plan to take apart the clutch assembly itself to see what the deal is. Has anyone had issues like this? Also to describe the clutch pull in greater detail, the lever will pull, grab, then jump to the next position instead of a consistent smooth pull. It does this on the pull in and release out. It also does this while the bike is off as well as on and running. The grabbing feel is more apparent when slowly trying to pull in or let out. Any input would be appreciated!