ATTENTION! IF YOU TRY THIS YOU DO THIS UNDER YOUR OWN RISK! I KNOW 2 PEOPLE THAT BRICKED THERE PRINTERS!!!

This is for Kobra 3, but should apply to any Anycubic with an AMS. I am looking for some gcode commands to swap tools on an AMS without doing the wipe / purge that you get with the T0/T1/T2/T3 commands. I can move the X to the cutter (push state,switch to absolute, move X to cut, move x back, pop state). I then want to retract the filament, switch to another spool and feed that up. This is a hot swap while printing (think of a wipe into infil).

Things are pretty locked down, the generated gcode uses the T commands. I wrote a text file read/parse/writer that looks to those and can change it out for custom code. Then that new gcode file is run on the printer.

I've been going through the anycubic repo on github and see the ACTIVATE_EXTRUDER EXTRUDER=<config_name> command. Does anyone know if ,config_name> is a specific name for the extruders (ie: extruder0.cfg or other names?).

As upfront payment for this divine knowledge here is a cheap freebie for everyone. To read the logs from your anycubic printer do the export to USB. Then pop the USB into your pc, rename the file to a zip file (ie: AC_LOG.PACK gets renamed to AC_LOG.ZIP). Now you can explore it. We now need the PWD to get in further and read them..... (lets get this one!).

Thanks to anyone who has info.

Stupid question, how do I remove the edging shown that goes out of the print path? I have tried looking myself in the anycubic slicer, but have had no luck, this is for a kobra x, I just updated to the newest slicer, and i have been able to work around it before, but this is a print I would rather not work around it on because I would like all these pieces done at the same time.

Is anyone else experiencing issues with the latest AnyCubic app update? It seems that the option to upload a file is now gone. I’ve searched the whole layout and can’t find it.

I'm running my Kobra X with a .25 nozzle. It's been working great. Suddenly it's trying to print but nothing is coming out. It thinks the filament is moving but it isn't, no error messages.

After removing the nozzle and dismantling the extruder assemblyand finding nothing I took a thin tool, pushed upward through the isolator and felt resistance. I pushed gently until the resistance gave, then manually fed filament from the top.

That tiny piece of white filament on the lower right of the bed fell out. It was bent just enough to act as a plug, right where sensors couldn't see it.

Machine works perfectly now. I spent a good part of the day fighting this so I had to share my pain!

Sharing my fully documented experience with an Anycubic Kobra 3 Max Combo bought from the official online store:

• Unresolved core defects: The machine suffered from a severe geometric flaw out of the box (oval circles instead of round). Support acknowledged the issue (Ticket #1093949), but it was never solved.
• Hardware failures: The ACE Pro feeder jammed constantly (Ticket #1467172), and a replacement printhead sent under warranty arrived Dead on Arrival (heating block and daughterboard not working).
• Endless DIY burden: For more than 6 months, support pushed repeated domestic teardowns: belt replacements, full motherboard swaps, printhead rebuilds, and wasted spools of filament on failed calibrations.
• Refusal of Statutory Warranty: With the printer completely inoperable, Anycubic formally refused a return and full refund, citing an internal "30-day return policy" and disregarding mandatory EU consumer protection laws (EU Directive 2019/771).
• Current status: Support unilaterally shipped more bare parts to solder/install, ignoring the rescission request. The case is now under formal chargeback dispute with the card issuer and reported to the Italian Antitrust Authority (AGCM).

Be aware of how warranty support operates on direct purchases if you encounter serious dimensional or electronics flaws.

Anyone had experience with these? I’ve had a Kobra S1 for about 3 months and the bed leveling has never been great, but it has gotten significantly worse over time.

The bed mesh would seem to indicate the bed is warped. Support sent me a new bed under warranty (I’ve been pleasantly surprised at how helpful their support has been), and after installing, I’m down from 2.1 mm variance to .9 mm variance. Big improvement, but still not great, and there’s lots of issues particularly in the rear corners of the bed. I’ve tried adding shims and that helped a little, but the rear left corner is still quite bad and sometimes I can see it flexing when the probe hits it. Now I’ve that had two beds both with similar issues, I’m thinking maybe the stock bed is just not very level even when brand new. The auto leveling just can’t compensate for it.

I have a lot of large, flat pieces I want to print, so having as perfectly level of a bed as I can get is important to me. So, I’ve been thinking about getting a third party bed instead.

TLDR: I’ve come to the conclusion that the stock bed is just kinda bad and flimsy. I’ve heard the Funssor replacement bed is much more sturdy and much more flat. Does anyone have experience with it? Did it help? Thanks!

Hi! Can you guys verify if this site is legit us anycubic? I tried searching and could find any sources. The site was saying its their anniversary and offers great deals. Thanks!

So i have been eyeing to buy a 3d printer but since Anycubic doesn't normally deliver in my country the express shipping fee is very high like nearly the same price as my order is there any work around or code that can help me?

I lost one of the two little scrub screws holding the hotend in place. Online I find different info about the size. The only thing I know is that the Allen M2 key fits. Does anyone know the size exactly?

Hey everyone!

Yesterday I heard a rattling sound coming from the printer (Anycubic Mega X) while I was getting ready to print, I turned it off while I went to get a flashlight to check it out, but when I turned it back on again it looked and sounded fine, and everything printed normally.

I got ready to print another thing today and it happened again, and I was able to get a video of an internal fan sputtering. I assume it’s not advisable to try to print again—does anyone have advice? I’m fairly inexperienced with repairing things like this, so I’m hesitant to start taking it apart if I don’t have to. That said, I’ll do what I have to do and I’m open to advice and instructions!

Any help is greatly appreciated!

After many successful prints, all of a sudden when im starting a new print it doesn't seem to be centered as it keeps trying to print off the build plate. Anyone know the reason for this? I've tried all the basic troubleshooting and still having the same issue. Any ideas? TIA

Genuinely can someone give me a straight answer for how this printer finds home on the x axis? Mine is having an issue where it seems to think that anywhere it's left on the gantry is home. I just want to know how to make it stop doing that.

Also ignore the mess around the printer, it's given me genuinely the worst like week and a half I've ever experienced with printing.

Been having trouble with this, it sounds like it's scrapping the bed but I see no marks on the print plate. When I auto level from a computer I get this problem but when the print is started from the printer I get no problem.

I started getting this error code about hotend not heating properly. When I heat it up manually it heats ok, shows the temp and everything on screen, I restarted the printer, updated ace pro 2 firmware, it got fixed and I did 1 print and started getting this code again. Anyone had this problem? What should I do? The wires, everything is ok, plugged, the printer is new, maybe only 10 prints in.

hey so i’m currently looking for maintenance products i asked gpt it said buy both but the anycubic site says apply a small amount of grease to the guard rail. what should i do?

Yesterday, I was printing something and then the printer stopped printing and gave a T0 sensor abnormal error.

I already tried removing the green cable and plugging it back in, i dont see any visible damages to the cable either

EDIT: The printer does show the Hotend temps (they are likely accurate because its similar to the room tempersture) and the hotend wont heat up