My DIY 3000-watt RMS system build (total system weight approximately 150 pounds). First vehicle audio system build since the 1990s.

My impression... .

The Orion Xtreme (XTR) class AB amp holds its fidelity at volume (smooth like warm butter), and the Orion soft dome tweeters are soft as silk (no high volume fatigue by crashing cymbals, etc.). The Orion amplifier produces 2 x 225W RMS at 4 Ohms, and the front speakers handle 280W of peak power and 70W RMS. I have the front soundstage amp turned halfway down on the gain. The rear speakers (powered by the Stinger 25W RMS amp) are Orion bullet midranges and have a higher rating of 1000W peak power and 250W RMS at 4 Ohm; they have a +8 dB increase in sensitivity (contrasted to the front soundstage), but they'll never receive maximum power since they are only rear fill. Realistically, at a concert the soundstage is in front and not the rear... only echo is heard from the rear). I prefer Class A for home HIFI audio or Class A & AB (switching at higher volumes). In other words, I'm more into high fidelity rather than maximum SPL... but the challenge is to achieve both.

The subwoofers, enclosure, and amplifier were packaged: Harmony class D 1500 watts RMS and 3x 12" Kickers. Total system costs, not including the Stinger, come to about $1300. That's incredible to me ... considering the costs for what was offered back in the 1990s.

I'm tuning with the Stinger active crossover now (preferring screen reach fingertip adjustments from the driver's seat rather than amplifier adjustments). Since the enclosure for the triple 12" subwoofers is sealed, I want it to extend a little higher than 80 Hz. At first I set the lowpass to a 18 dB slope, but that was too sharp a cutoff (18 dB decrease 1-octave up), set now to a 12 dB slope at 80 (found the sweet spot); it hits harder, and it's better fidelity to my ears. Glad I went with 3x12" subwoofers (powered by 1500 watts RMS at 1-ohms class D); quick, successive drum beats are distinct rather than rolling-rumble thunder like (typical of larger-sized cones). I also adjusted the front soundstage at a 100 Hz highpass with a 18 dB slope. I haven't adjusted the rear fill yet, but I'll probably choose a highpass with a sharp slope well above 100 Hz. The transition from the low frequencies to mid (bass) doesn't leave any observable dips to my ears (I don't have DSP software or a calibrated microphone to test the frequency anymore). Though I might break out some frequency waveform tracks to listen for any dips. I clearly observe the distinct drum beat and the slap of the skin, whether on the kick drum or snare, and it carries through to midrange rim shots.

• 12 dB Slope (Second Order): The signal drops by 12 dB for every octave above 80 Hz. At 160 Hz, it is down 12 dB, and at 320 Hz, it is down 24 dB.
• 18 dB Slope (Third Order): The signal drops by 18 dB for every octave above 80 Hz. At 160 Hz, it is down 18 dB, and at 320 Hz, it is down 36 dB. Comparison Above 80 Hz
• At 160 Hz (1 Octave Up): The 12 dB slope is quieter by 12 dB, while the 18 dB slope is quieter by 18 dB (significantly more suppressed).
• At 320 Hz (2 Octaves Up): The 12 dB slope is down 24 dB, while the 18 dB slope is down 36 dB.

I demoed the system playing "Down with the Sickness" by Disturbed... the opening has an incredible drum bass line. This system will make you shake your head... the kick drum is danger close powerful, it targets and impacts the sternum of the listeners, like high-end home cinema systems. Talk'n Black Hawk Down .50 caliber cover fire overhead on the HumVee or the scene in John Wick, a sledgehammer on the basement concrete floor to uncover a weapons cache, and the fidelity and the slap of the drum skin remain incredibly detailed at insane volume. I probably won't port this enclosure; the tight control and larger bandwidth of a sealed box remind me of why a lot of audiophiles prefer sealed enclosures, though the ported enclosure will play louder at the narrower port tuning frequency.

The next upgrade will be a +400A alternator.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=09LTT0xwdfw

Bought this ugly S10 mini truck with walk through & snugtop a few months back and started with the system build. It will be LS Swapped with a 80e trans, painted white and old school ARE 3 spokes over the winter. All new Orion XTR gear with a Pioneer deck. Had a company called EZ DB’s design the box and it went together great. Highly recommended this service as everything was done quickly and precise. No DSP’s as of now but the goal was to play old school rap at 150db’s. Just reliving some of my youth with this new project and excited to see how it comes out. Digging the splatter paint!

Installing this on a ram 1500 2018 bighorn with the basic 6 speaker system non amplified.

I didnt have the right size RCA cables thats why you can see some rca bunched up and tied and some RCA running near power wire. I ordered the shortest RCA cables to clean up this install. As of right now I havent powered anything up just ran the power wires. Is there any tips or advice you guys can give me before completing the install.

Installed this amp today. At first I thought oh it's common ground outputs but u can clearly see that the shared terminal is both negative and positive I watched a YouTube video and it's explanation was verbatim it's more positive for one speaker and more negative for the other... Wait a minute if this actually works (it didn't) the speakers will be out of phase. Whatever I'll hook it up as the instructions say ( my ability to read has rarely steered me wrong)but it has turn on buzz lol the right side buzzes for 15 seconds and then nothing. Also the rca inputs, channel one is red channel two is white please wake me from this nightmare.

I’m looking for advice on adding a subwoofer to the factory non Bose system in my 2023 Mazda CX 50 (small SUV).
We listen to everything from rap and electronica to pop and podcasts. I want a noticeable improvement in bass, but cargo space is important, so I’m looking for something compact that can be easily removed when needed or transferred to another vehicle later. I’m prioritizing musicality and accuracy over volume.
I’m considering these two:

• JL Audio ACS110LG TW1

• Alpine PWV SB10

Both are powered, sealed 10 inch enclosures with around 400W RMS. They seem like a good balance of size, performance, and portability. I’ve heard good things about JL’s quality, while Alpine’s DSP technology is interesting.
Has anyone used either of these? Which would you choose, and are there any other setups I should consider in this price and size range?
I’m planning to have a local shop handle the installation and my all in budget including install and wiring kit would be around $1K.

Hey everyone, sorry if this is a repetitive post. This is my first time wiring subs and an amp.
I’ve got a Skar monoblock 1200rms @ 1ohm amp and 2 skar 10” shallow mount 500rms subs. The subs are wired down to 1 ohm (tested with a multimeter) so they should have plenty of power.

After wiring all the rest I went to test the output of the amp with a multimeter to tune the gain right. I did this with a 0db 50hz test tune with 0 gain, 0 crossover, max bass knob, max “sub” power on my headunit (which just adjusts the power of low frequencies across the whole audio system) and 80% volume. My target hz was 31 volts to match the subs max power. I was confused to see the initial reading was 0.2 volts. I kept cranking the gain to max until it reached 29 volts at max gain. I can tell this is an accurate measurement even in the sound because at half gain it measures 10 volts and it’s noticeably 1/3 as quiet as it should be.

Admittedly the headunit is a cheap Chinese headunit off Amazon. My truck is old and I am broke so I really didn’t want to spend more than $300 on a head unit. Everything else about the headunit is great including sound quality across the speakers. Is it possible it’s just not outputting enough power or is something else? Is it safe to leave it at max gain since it still doesn’t even output what I need it to?

Anybody have experience with these? Do they normally go full volume without distortion? Looking at them for a 14 Silverado and would prefer to not have to stay at 3/4 volume to keep distortion out. Thanks!

there is no tag or any form of sticker to see the model number, so does anyone know what model this is and what will it be worth for

What’s the best way to go about installing 2 12 inch subs and a 5000 watt rms amplifier in my 2026 BMW m340i? I called a local car audio shop and they said that it’s difficult with bmw because it’ll give a voltage codes. I have an auxiliary battery and also a capacitor, but I don’t know how to approach this. The guy from the shop said he could install them, but the car could freak out. Anyone have any knowledge on this? Any help is greatly appreciated.

I’ve never done any type of mods to the truck and I’m not knowledgeable about what a car needs to have a good sound system. My first thought would be to upgrade the head unit for more modern tech because the Bluetooth doesn’t par well with my phones current software. I just want well balanced high quality music.

I would like to one day have a hifi sound system but I don’t really know where to start. Has anyone modded a 2013 tundras sound system? Any recommendations?

I’m looking at installing a Kenwood DMX8710s and I’m trying to determine which route to take. I have a 2012 4Runner, and I’d like to keep my basic steering wheel functions

Do I Order everything from Crutchfield and self install with the Maestro RR2.

Or go to Best Buy and do an install. It looks to come out cheaper but doesn’t include the Maestro in their parts list. The website seems to claim it will work with full functionality.

Is BestBuy using an alternative to the Maestro, or are the steering controls likely not going to work? Obviously this is a question for them, but if anyone else has BB installs what has been the experience regarding Maestros and steering wheel functions.

Better to self install or bother with BB?

So I have a 2003 Chevy Silverado. Thing is basically a damn farm truck. Middle seat don’t move at all, but I also got 2 12’s sundowns that have a depth of 6.5 inches. I need to make enough room to fit both of these fuckers in there which ain easy with it being a single cab. Has anyone ever built anything custom with these dimensions, or if there is something pre built you recommend let me know. I’m currently fucking around with cardboard trying to figure out just how I can possibly fit these. I’m okay with two separate boxes, or a whole dual enclosure. Whatever works best. Thanks yall.

I know this sub is probably riddled with this type of post, but had some specific head units I was hoping to get some feedback on. I just recently got a 2014 Mazda5 and I'm looking to install a CarPlay head unit. Typically I have not been a fan of floating screen style units, but the stock radio is so big in this car that I think I want to take advantage of a larger screen since it won't obstruct my AC vents or controls, but also like the adjustability of screen angle a floating style display offers. In my previous car I had a Sony XAV-AX5000 and it served me well; biggest issue I ever really had was some CarPlay connectivity issues but they were always solved with a new USB cable, so not even the unit's problem. All I'm looking for now is reliable CarPlay connectivity, a camera input for a backup camera, a microphone input for calls, and ability to wire in the steering wheel controls. Wireless CarPlay and a volume knob are nice to haves but not required. Im no audio snob so as long as the sound quality is as good as the stock radio I'll have no complaints. And looking to keep it under $500 if possible. I bought my previous Sony unit on crutch field and installed it myself and plan to do the same for whatever I end up with. I try to stick to the big brands I hear good things about: Sony, Alpine, Kenwood, JVC, Pioneer, but there's been some others that have caught my eye.

I think the leading contender right now is the Jensen CAR1013/CAR813 (haven't actually measured to see if I have the clearance for 10" screen yet). It's got all the features I'm looking for along with left/right screen adjustability, which I haven't seen in some other floating displays. I have only heard mediocre things about Jensen though. Kinda looking for input on if Jensen is as bad as people make them sound? I mostly see people saying for this unit there's CarPlay connectivity issues. But if that's just a wireless CarPlay issue I have no problem using a cable, but the reviews never specify. Or anybody own one and can speak to its functionality?

I would love to stick with Sony since I had good luck with my previous unit. So I found the XAV-AX8100. But even here the reviews I see aren't stellar; some complaining of connectivity issues, but a lot of complaints saying the screen isn't bright enough for daytime. Additionally, this one doesn't have left/right adjustability to help mitigate daytime viewing issues. I remember my old Sony being hard to view in the daylight at times, but mostly only if someone was in the passenger seat in lighter clothes, creating a bright reflection on the display. Anybody have experience with this unit in particular?

If I go with a regular display I would probably just go with the Sony XAV-AX4000 or Sony XAV-AX3200, depending on how much I decide I really car about wireless CarPlay. I know there's a ton from the bigger brands in this price range.

Anybody have any input on any of these units or any other recommendations for a larger display CarPlay headunit?

TLDR; Any input on Jensen CAR813/CAR1013, Sony XAV-AX8100, or any recs for a large display CarPlay compatible headunit?

Thanks!

Im having a hard time understanding how a port works. Im planning to run 2 sundown xv4 8in. Sorry for bad drawing

I am in the process of overhauling the very sad standard stereo system in my new IS350 F Sport. The lack of bass was my first step, so I added a single sealed 12” woofer in the trunk. This helped tremendously with the low end.

I am now looking to change out the primary mid/high front dash speakers. Initially, I assumed a high sensitivity speaker would work best as the stock amplifier is really quite weak. However, once I got into it I realized that one of the worst parts of the system is the insane imbalance to the front speakers. I’ll be honest, without fading almost entirely to the rear (which sounds terrible anyway)… I can’t hear any of the other speakers. My thought was what if I put a low RMS/ Lower sensitivity speaker in the front, possibly allowing me to turn up the volume overall and bringing in the door woofers and a little of the rear with the hope this brings things together a bit. Also with the added bonus of being able to keep the sub amp turned down to no extra bass boost.

Had anyone had good luck with the front swap specifically? If so, what did you use and did it actually have this effect?

My best guess so far would be the JL C2 350X across the dash, as it’s a low power and medium/low sensitivity speaker that I have had experience with and enjoy the sound of and should still be plenty audible at the 10-20 watt range if the stock amp. Unfortunately, it will require buying two sets as there is 3 speakers up front.

Additionally, I would love to know if anyone saw benifit from the front door speaker swap. Did it allow you to actually hear a mid bass signal from them and how sensitive did you have to go to get that result?

Speakers: Morel Supremo 63 Special Edition
Front amps: Mosconi PRO 4|10 + PRO 2|10
DSP: HELIX DSP PRO MK3
Controller: HELIX Conductor
Stereo: Sony XAV-9500ES
Subs: 2× JL CLS110RG-W7AE 10W7
Sub amps: 2× JL HD750/1
Fabrication: Custom mid/tweeter A-pillars + rigid door baffles
Treatment: Full vehicle
Electrical: ~250–300A+ HO alternator target pending measurements + upgraded battery + Big 3 + 2/0 or dual 1/0 OFC main feed + fused distribution

And a custom enclosure for all 4 amps and dsp with 2 cooling fans

So I set gains using a dmm with a 0db test tone 1khz for mids and 50hz for sub on my kenwood excelon double din and I set it at 32/35. My question is am I not allowed to turn the volume past 32 now? Because I have on multiple occasions without distortion especially with quieter songs. Am I frying my equipment by doing this?

Need some help figuring out where my issue is. I believe I have a defective amplifier.

I am running 2 sky high bmx 12’s in a ported box 4.8cft tuned to 32hz at .5 ohms on a taramps big boss 5 amplifier. I have a 40ah xs power yinlong lto cell and a 320amp Js alternator. I have done big 3 and have both a positive and negative 1/0 ofc run from the from xs power agm to the rear lithium bank in parallel. I have two short ofc 1/0 runs from the lithium bank to the amplifier. I am having issues where during demos I will get one really strong drop that will last about 5 seconds then the rest of the demo it’s like the amplifier is turning itself down. I have set my gains to 50vac. Monitored for clipping which I am not. Verified 2vac at the pre out. Voltage is rock solid at 14v or higher until the amp starts to “overheat”. Lowest voltage I see during demos is 13.4. I have had multiple taramps big boss 3k and they all sound like a drone taking off when they start to get any amount of heat being generated. My big boss 5 came missing one insert for the power side hookups. One side of leds doesn’t work and it won’t spool up the fans past what sounds like idle to me even on the self check when first powered on. The amplifier gets so hot that the heat sync on top could burn your hand. I believe this is a faulty amplifier based on my knowledge of previous amps I’ve owned but what’s some input on what yall think. I’m most likely going to try and rma it. Amplifier is 1 week old. Also if anyone has the same amplifier could you create a video getting it hot bumping some power then record the fans to see how hard they are pushing. I feel like mine just aren’t spooling up enough to move any air.

Hello CarAV! I have a question about a potential use of alubutyl, and I figured this sub probably has one of the highest concentrations of people who are familiar with handling alubutyl.

Here's the situation: We just moved into a new rental flat that has its own ventilation system. The box with the fans (air handling unit?) looks something like this: https://www.systemair.com/en/products/residential-ventilation-systems/air-handling-units/save

It's not that loud, but it has a definite electric hum and is located on the wall just outside the bedroom. It can clearly be heard when trying to sleep. It seems to be the vibrations of the fans inside the box coming out through the metal walls of the box and into the air.

I've been researching possible sound dampening methods to decrease the noise. (I know we can't get it 100% quiet because some sound will always transfer through where it's joined to the wall/ceiling). I picked up a very cheap and thin bitumen/asphalt sheet that was in the car section of the hardware store, and tried sticking it to two sides of the ventilation box. I think it helped a tiny bit, but didn't make that much of a difference.

What I've been looking at lately is alubutyl panels for vibration reduction. Theoretically, this should work, right? There are two issues with this, and I've got questions about both:

1. The butyl sticks tightly to metal and is difficult to remove. Any soundproofing solution should be reversible as we are renting. Would it work if I put a laminate film type thing directly on the ventilation box, and then stuck the butyl to the film? Then I could pull the laminate film off without having the butyl stuck to the metal directly. Would this interfere with the vibration reducing effect of the butyl?

2. The edges of the aluminum in the alubutyl are apparently quite sharp. This ventilation box is located in a closet, so we don't want sharp edges to get stuck on clothing. Has anyone had experience putting alubutyl on an exposed surface / any tips on managing the sharp edges?

I'm aware this isn't really about cars or AV systems, but I didn't know where else to inquire. I'm hoping someone with relevant knowledge would be able to advise! Thank you! :)