I’ve seen some videos of people playing new gen games on crt’s and they look beautiful. What adapter would have the least latency for these? I also plan on playing GameCube and ps3 on them. Is there a way to play split screen but it’s one on each monitor? I havnt used a console in a very long time. I’m so glad they both turn on still! They’ve been up there for 15ish years.

Project update: CABLE 82 now supports channels. Add videos to folders on a Raspberry Pi, set a channel number, and switch channels with an input controller.

I have a 90s commercial channel, a 50s movie channel, a Saturday morning cartoon channel, and a community bulletin board. I leave it running all day at the house ;)

Was out in the neighborhood visiting my dad when I saw these post up for free just a few blocks away. Both work perfect as far as I can tell. Loving this Hitachi w/ the side speakers and wood paneling!

And besides the fact that the glas is a bit scratched its GREAT!!! The Image is pretty sharp (sharper than I expected) and the colors are pretty vibrant, its great for watching old school anime an playing arcade games. Though it cannot capture the blurry beauty of 240p games so I still have a good reason to use my CRT TV because I do like the blurry composite signal?

After a lot of negotiations I managed to get her to lower the price to 165$, which makes a lot more sense.

It might still be a bit overpriced, but I'll mention again that I live in the middle east. This area barely got any CRTs with component inputs, let alone HD CRTs.

I'm going to look at it tomorrow, and if everything looks good I'll probably buy it. I'll bring my PS2 with me to check how it looks. Anything specific I should check for?

Flipper through the memes

Credit to my wife.

She's letting me put my KV-34HS420 in the living room!

...Just need to find the stand....

Every

Time

Don't recommend HD CRTs. The people don't like that.

Seen this on marketplace got a chuckle out of it

As of today, I've had 3 different Sony Trinitrons and countless CRTs from other manufacturers. Quite frankly, I don't find Trinitrons to be at all what they're hyped up to be. I've had the following 3 models: KV-27S42 (Used the most), KV-19TS20 and KV-27FS12. I'll start out with the oldest of the three, the KV-19TS20. I know at least one of you is about to say "that's a composite only set, not a fair comparison". However, that isn't my point. This trinitron was actually the only one I was impressed with. It has quite a good picture for only having composite, and especially for a TV released in 1989. Enter the KV-27S42, a CRT introduced nearly a decade later. I got rid of my Toshiba 20AF43 before getting this thinking I was upgrading to one of the best possible consumer TVs. After all the 20AF43 is an Orion made Toshiba. I was real disappointed once I hooked everything up over S-Video, the same as I was using with the Toshiba. The AF series picture seemed much more clean looking to me. That being said, I still gave the Trinitron the benefit of the doubt considering there's a difference in pixel density between 20 inches, and 27. Since then, the KV-27S42 quit powering on (don't worry, I listed it for free on my local fb marketplace, I was told by the buyer that it has now been repaired). Pretty recently, I actually did get pretty lucky and got a JVC I'art AV-27F475 for free. It was in need of a cord replacement, and some magnets placed on the tube to fix some purity issues, but it does work. I find this TV to be even better than the Toshiba AF, giving a very clean picture with even better colors than any TV I've had prior. The next day I got lucky again finding a Panasonic Tau PV-DF2703 for $1, albiet with its internal dvd/vcr combo having issues. I also think this Tau looks better than the Trinitrons, albiet only marginally. Today I found a Trinitron KV-27FS12. I picked it up thinking perhaps Sony improved their TVs in the 2000s, but I was wrong. I find this CRT to be just as unimpressive as the KV27S42. It has some rainbowing issues around the corners, but the tube is still okay enough to get a general idea of its picture quality. I'll be giving it away for free since it's not going to be replacing either my I'art or Tau, even though I could probably fix it if I felt like it. I just don't understand why so many people hype these up as being the best consumer CRT you can possibly get. I frequently see these CRTs for $200-500, which I don't find justifiable when JVCs, Toshibas, and especially Panasonics can be found for much lower prices. I know this is definitely a hot take, but I feel like someone out there needs to hear it before dropping $350 on a trinitron just because its "the best".

So I've got a panasonic m9000 s-vhs camera from my local junkyard. Let's say it's a fucking fate. Because no one here uses VHS, since it's a remote town near pondicherry. Finding VHS is hard, but this one is s-vhs. And on top of it, the title of the day, the CRT viewfinder aka the CRT TV without rf. It's so tiny than a stamp. Tiny than a coin. The viewfinder uses lens to magnify that tiny pic. Originally it got horizontal failure, initially all I got is a blob, and when decreasing brightness, and with 240p test suite, a block move up and down but not left and right. So I confirmed horizontal side issue. Checked coil and that's fine. Checked wire which is fine too. Transistor and fbt is fine, that's why there's image. So I pulled out schematic and found a electrolyte capacitor that's leaky. BTW, it got 4 leaky capacitor replaced, and PCB cleaned with isopropyl alcohol, and there's no damage in PCB due to capacitor leakage. The capacitor on photo got heavy leaks. I can't find these on schematic diagram. Only found the horizontal side. Replaced and got the pic with clean resolution. Cleaned all mirror, and lenses with isopropyl alcohol. Now it's working fine. It's required just 5v, easy as much as USB power. And usb + -, cvbs + - is the wires i need.

note: even though the viewfinder is from pal VHS, it also accept ntsc through cvbs, but just picture would go bit up and bottom leaves a dark space

Haha did you guys know this? Noctua NF-B9-1600 92mm fan snaps right to the chassis of my 20L4.

Plan is to have it on the inside blowing out, as suggested by savonpat. - Dont worry im going to secure it anyway but I was surprised by the magnetism of this fan!

After tracking down a series of failed parts, I'm happy to report she's working great and looks even better. Pretty stoked as it's my first major (and successful) repair, by major I mean handful of PCB components needing to be identified and replaced.

Recently bought a really good condition crt but it doesn't come with the original remote. I am curious if any of you have this tv and could tell me the exact universal remote model that works with this. Thank you!

UPDATE I got a universal remote to work with this tv. General Electric 4-Device Universal Remote with the code: 1611

BAD UPDATE TV works great however none of the av inputs work. I have tested multiple cables and devices and the tv does not respond at all. I think I'm cooked

And today i learned my converter box is busted

Went to the thrift store this morning and found this to be a surprise (this is the second CRT to ever show up in the last 2 years) and I gasped when I saw the price tag on it

I am looking for a CRT myself and I knew they'd be pricey but man does it hurt to see how much they cost nowadays

Please ignore the cable management. The pic was taken during proof of concept stage. It works great. Got a Chromecast hooked up to it.

Just picked this JVC TM-22U up from someone on a different sub Reddit. It turns on, the audio works, but I'm struggling to find an appropriate adapter to test the video 📺?

Relatively new to this hobby, any input is appreciated!

-Thanks

🙏

I bought this on an auction site for about $30

I can’t find much about the model online. It’s a 27 inch from 2001 and I’m going to check it out tomorrow.

Hi everybody! My friend is asking me to post a question here about a problem with his TV since I've got a Reddit account. Here's what happened:

I need some help with my Sony KV-29LS35K CRT TV. It was barely used and had been sitting untouched in a dry room for the last 10 years. Recently, we moved it to another room, and I decided to power it on to "warm it up" and check if it still works.
My wall voltage was a bit low (around 180V), so I plugged the TV into a 1000VA relay-based voltage stabilizer (Rucelf Star 1000), followed by a 2000W surge protector.
When I turned on the power, the TV bypassed the standby mode, immediately powered on, and displayed green numbers "01" on the screen. Everything seemed completely fine.
However, after about 15 minutes, the voltage stabilizer clicked (probably due to a grid voltage spike). Right at that moment, the TV screen went black, the unit dropped into standby mode, and it started making a very LOUD cracking/snapping noise.
The scary part is that the loud cracking noise continued even AFTER I completely unplugged the TV from the surge protector. I honestly thought it caught fire, but there was absolutely no smell of smoke, burning plastic, or ozone.

My questions are:
What could this loud cracking noise be if there was no burning smell? (Could it be the flyback transformer arcing or the tube discharging?) What are the chances that this situation completely killed the TV? Should I risk plugging it back in to test it, or is that a terrible idea?

I would really appreciate any advice or insights from CRT experts here. Thank you!

Hopefully this is the right subreddit to ask. Thanks a lot for your responses!

Earlier today, I received this lovely 3.5" unit from eBay! It arrived in perfect working condition and even came with its original box and accessories! Unfortunately, there aren't any built-in ports to connect things to, so I won't be able to show anything other than static on the screen.

Last picture shows the ACN-3500 compared to a typical 5" CRT.

Manufactured October 1990.

My HDCRT has been working just fine but as of two days ago it won’t turn on. It degausses and I hear a clicking but the screen won’t turn on and it makes a clicking noise, and blinks the standby light. I got it to turn on yesterday and it worked perfectly fine for hours, but I turned it off and now it won’t come back on (I forgot if I did anything different to turn it on yesterday) I’ve tried different outlets ports and it won’t come on.