I want to get a decent set of speakers for preferrably $100 or less (I know a lot will say I cant get good one for that, but I am far from an audiophile. I have a 84" toolbox with hutch and want to put speakers in the corners, and have the sound played from the 3.4mm jack on my laptop. Wondering what a good set of 2,0 speakers would be? My needs would be decent volume and " far field" since I wont be at my toolbox, but out in the shop or at my hoist.

I looked into the Edifier r1280t and they sounded kind of muddy to me, I have looked at the presonus 3.5s, someone near me has a used set of presonus 4.5s for 100, but read those are studio monitors for "near field" so not sure if they would serve me well. Obvioulsy I cant have huge speakers since they need to fit in my hutch, but I could PROBABLY make a decent shelf for a speaker the size of an R1280T. Any recommendations?

I just completed the making of my solid walnut cabinet for my 2c rig, custom designed by me to properly fit all the separates.

The project started with raw walnut slabs and going through all the motions of milling, sanding, fitting, glueing, more sanding..., oiling, and finally...completion.

The cabinet has an integrated, 6" deep cable chase so most cables and interconnects stay within the cabinet itself. The cable chase also makes it much easier to reach the back panels of all the gear, not least because the top is floating and easily removed for full access from above.

Gear is a Rega Naia tt with an Apheta 2 cartridge, an Allnic H-3000H tube phono stage, the Antipodes K41 server and K22 streamer, a MolaMola Tambaqui DAC, a Trinnov ST2 Pro DSP, an Audio Research Reference 10 linestage, Pass Labs Xa100.8 monoblocks, Opera Grand Callas speakers, and two JL Audio 112 subwoofers.

Looking to build a box or even buy if someone knows one that I can put in my semi truck! I do have an inverter so id prefer something rechargeable not plug-in. BASS is an absolute MUST.. like either a solo 10/12 sub or dual 8 woofers, I want to kinda feel the vibrations but also want crisp sound if that makes any sense ….any help greatly appreciated or let me know if I’m asking for too much out of a box. Be amazing to keep under 1k.

Hope i have the right flair, i couldn't find a better one...

i have some old speakers that connect via 3.5mm to my laptop, and they work, one left and one right. but then my laptop speakers are off. i want to use laptop speakers as front right/left and the old external speakers for back left/right. i'm on Linux (fedora rn, but might switch). any software to achive this?

bonus for letting me fine tune the audio channels on each speaker in case i cant set them up symetrically or whatever...

I recently built a new box and horn for an old EV sx100+. I used the crossover, 12” driver and compressor driver from the original Ev. It now sounds super muddy, and the compression driver tries to play across the entire spectrum rather than being properly crossed over at 1250 hz. Any idea what I could’ve done wrong? I believe there is an actual problem rather than my box just being suboptimal.

Would anyone be willing to tell me if there are any obvious flaws or changes to be made to this? I have 650 for speakers and electronics before boxes wiring and misc. I don't know anything about speakers this is just what i came up with after some google searches so I apologize if anything is egregious..

I just wanted a budget system as a first time build. Im trying to chase clarity over raw loudness or bass. Nothing above im attached to or already have so anything goes.

That way I can get a richer sound.

I have a pair of Epos m5i speakers and one of them has a broken bass driver (no sound coming from the bass driver, only from tweeter). I wanted to open them up and see if I see anything obviously wrong inside (and perhaps purchase a replacement driver to install).

But I can't get the unit open. I've tried unscrewing everything on the front, but with the screws out (they're pictured in here) none of the drivers come loose. Perhaps they are glued in?

I've also attempted removing the screws on the back near the terminals but these screws won't budge at all. Used all manner of Phillips sizes and some Wd40 - no luck.

There are no other possible entrances to the unit. The wood is completely sealed on all sides.

Any insight into opening up Epos speakers like this?

Cool novelty or am I just playing with trash?

Building my first 2-way horn speaker: sensitivity mismatch between SB Acoustics drivers
Hi everyone,
I’m working on my first DIY 2-way high-fidelity horn-loaded speaker as a proof-of-concept project. I’m relatively new to speaker design, so I’m trying to approach this properly rather than simply bolting together expensive drivers and hoping physics develops a sense of humor. The best I’ve done till now is make a kit speaker, but I didn’t have to deal with the issues I have now. I’m
The drivers I’ve currently selected are:
Woofer: SB Acoustics SB13PFCR25-4
Compression driver: SB Acoustics Bianco 25CD-P, used with a horn/waveguide
The main issue I’m trying to solve is the large sensitivity difference between the two drivers.
The Bianco 25CD-P is substantially more sensitive than the SB13PFCR25-4, which means I’m trying to figure out the best way to integrate them while maintaining a balanced, high-fidelity response.
My current options seem to be:
Use an L-pad/resistive attenuation to bring the compression driver down to the woofer’s level.
Find a lower-sensitivity compression driver that is naturally closer to the woofer. Which I cannot find in India.
Find a higher-sensitivity woofer, although that introduces compromises in cost, size and potentially bass performance. Too costly tbh for a prototype
Design a proper passive crossover with attenuation and impedance compensation around the actual drivers..
The DSP approach is particularly interesting to me because I’m considering DSP for the final system anyway. However, I’m unsure whether using DSP to compensate for a sensitivity difference of this magnitude is considered good practice.
What I’m particularly trying to understand is this:
If the compression driver is significantly more sensitive than the woofer, is there any real downside to simply attenuating it substantially with an L-pad?
For example, does significant attenuation introduce meaningful disadvantages in terms of:
dynamics
distortion
amplifier power requirements
noise floor
impedance
crossover behavior
transient response
overall sound quality
And would DSP attenuation be preferable to an L-pad if I use separate amplification for the woofer and compression driver?
The intended configuration is simply:
Bianco 25CD-P + horn/waveguide → SB13PFCR25-4 woofer
My goal is hi-fi sound rather than maximum SPL. I’m mainly interested in getting the tonal balance, crossover integration, imaging, dynamics and distortion performance right.
I’m also trying to understand how much importance I should place on the nominal sensitivity figures in the datasheets. I understand that the actual response curves, impedance, horn/waveguide loading, crossover frequency and acoustic response of the finished system are ultimately more important than simply comparing two sensitivity numbers.
For those of you who have experience designing 2-way horn speakers, how would you approach this particular combination?
Would you:
attenuate the Bianco with an L-pad,
use a passive crossover specifically designed around these two drivers,
use active amplification + DSP,
or reconsider the driver combination altogether?
I’d also appreciate any advice on a sensible crossover frequency for the Bianco 25CD-P and SB13PFCR25-4, particularly regarding directivity matching and getting the best integration from the horn/waveguide and woofer.
I can provide the exact datasheets, response curves and the passive crossover I’m currently considering if useful.
Thanks in advance.