for the frame i printed the segments in PLA and wrapped them in slow cure epoxy combined with carbon fiber wrap.

flies okay, some duct issues i didnt account for before the build

build 13" prop 380kv 4006 brushless motors, Pixhawk 2.4.8 FC, 9000mAh 6S, AM32 ESCs, Radiomaster RP1, PDB, external GPS. as  well as (not shown) AI Stack Jetson orin nano, 4x OV9281 Camera

if you want to generate a ducted frame with segments that fit in your 3d Printer free use check this out ^_^

https://github.com/jackgibbons85/ductgen

Feel free to repost to other drone groups

I've decided to have a shot at using my no-brand Chinese spot welder with some "new~ish" tech. batteries, the tabless 21700 Reliance RS-50's.. They are rated at 5000 mAh and 70A draw, so I decided for 2p config for 140A total max draw. This is a 10.000 mAh pack. They'll be flown with my 7inch.

The two holders for the cells are printed from PLA. They're very neat, with a clip-on effect.
I've modded this STL cut for 6 cells.

The tabs are a layer of pure Copper strips and pure Nickel strips, cut into various shapes for fit, 0.15mm thick (i think), 10mm wide. For the parallel link, using them was easy, but to continue onto the next cell, I've spot-welded on top of the 1st link, making it a 4-layer connection (1x Cu+N into 1x Cu+N.. it's hefty)

Barley paper on top of the finished wiring + automotive el.harness tape + shrink wrap + another layer of automotive el.harness tape. (my shrink wrap was not wide enough for this chungus)...

It took a whopping 2h30min to charge both packs up to 4.15V / cell on 3A charge (68-74W of power)...mind you, the packs were not fully discharged... they started at around 3.7V's

Will edit this post later with flight time achieved.

However, the solder is dogshit, I used a solder paste made for pipes (because i am a fucking idiot) and it turned out other than being acid is also conductive :)

I'll order the correct flux, a better wire (the one i used was too small) and bigger solder tips and a de-solder station

Still funny video, and the smoke stopper saved the whole board

Well y'all, I finally did it. I found the time last night to finish my HD tinywhoop rebuild. I removed the motor plugs and direct soldered the motors, as well as reduced the length of wires going from the VTX to the FC to the shortest I could manage. Less than an inch. It was really tight area to solder in, but I pulled it off, and it flies better than ever. My goal was to get sub 30 grams, but looks like it's not gonna happen unless I remove the heat sink shield from the VTX. I tried a little, but didn't want to risk breaking it.

Walksnail 1s lite, air 75 II frame, dime 1002 24k kv motors, two peek screws and one titanium screw securing each of the motors.HQ ultralight props, newbee drone racespec canopy. And goku evrs aio f405 flight controller.

I run it with the Lava series batteries both Is, and IIs and get around 2:30-3:00 minutes of flight time.

Based on how i aim at Gates and Dives, i chose the Storm Trooper Style Boxer to fit my career

Ordered 5x5 from GetFPV, but received 7x6 from RaceDayQuads? I had precut my PVC for the 5x5 but no big deal I guess. Looks fire.

The other side is all in blood where the actual cut is I didn’t show it to not make it nsfw
So It’s a brand new build it should be all correct i was testing and yeah
Specs for anyone wondering:
Happpymodel mobula 8 x14 aio
Rcinpower gts v3 1003 22000kv
Some props that are 2 inch 2.3 pitch don’t remember what brand
Betafpv c03
Happymodel mobula 6 canopy
Flywoo explorer 1s 1000mah 80c v2
Flywoo I think flybee 20 2 inch frame the 04 variant
How it feels well only one 30s test flight in so idk I have to tune it tomorrow and test and see how it is

edit: weight with battery 59 g

Hi, I'm very new to this and have been flying simulator and just started flying. My radiomaster pocket has just started showing a steady red light at the back.

I set it up per josh bardwells video a week ago and it was working fine. It wouldn't connect to my Mac today via usb to play in the sim. I changed it to the preset pocket mode and it connected to the computer fine and worked with the SIM and drone mode worked fine with my drone.

I am completely out of my depth with this hobby at the minute and would appreciate if someone might no the reason this might have happened. Thanks

I’m in the hole about $1650. How much was your priciest build ?

Found this lying around in house, oops....

So I mean like kiwiquads but that are set in EU or at least have trackable international shippings.

Hey hey.

I just calibrated the Boxer.

The CH3 shows the Throttle. So does A2.

As you can see the channel shows -99 instead of -100.

Same thing with Roll right. Calibrated it again, same behaviour. Is it normal, do i have to do something about it?

Hello Reddit! I was wondering if there are any O4 things I should be aware of.

Coming from cheap analog, I don’t really know about any of the weird features. For example, low-power mode I don’t really know how it works or when I should use it.

I’m also worried about cooking the O4 while doing configuration and stuff. I don’t really know how the N3s work either, but I assume it’ll be more straightforward than I think. I guess once I get them, I’ll start learning all that stuff.

Is there anything important I should know before getting into O4?

PS: My setup is Radiomaster Pocket, Meteor75 pro ii elrs/ dji o4 wide and dji n3

I was flying my pavo20 pro and getting amazing stuff chasing guys getting pulled by a boat when a splash hit my drone and it went down instantly. 😭 i’ve seen pros put a water bottle on their drone so it floats. is there something similar i can do for a smaller drone or something more practical? additionally, is there still no way to get the “last recording before crash” off the goggles 3??

PLEASE AND THANK YOU ONCE AGAIN

I dont know why this happens but i would like any help because i am clueless. And yes i checked the soldering joints and even redid them so that shouldnt be the problem, i hope.