would like to know the specific model thanks :)

I got tired of hardware monitors wanting an account, so I built one that doesn't

Every monitor I tried wanted something from me. An account before it would show me a temperature. Four background services and an RGB hub I never asked for. An overlay switched on by default, buried three menus deep when I went to turn it off. None of it was what I opened the app for.

So I built Aikonic. Windows, lives in the tray, stays out of the way. No account, no sign-in, no telemetry. CPU, GPU, fans, drives, memory.

The piece I'm proudest of is die temps. Most tools read them through WinRing0, which Microsoft now flags as a vulnerable driver and carries on its blocklist, so with memory integrity on it doesn't load and Defender flags it on plenty of machines besides. The usual workaround is an exclusion or switching Core Isolation off. Asking you to lower your defences to see a temperature is not a trade I'm willing to offer, so I created a driver and got that signed by Microsoft instead. Stock Windows 11 and works on Windows 10 too, nothing disabled, temps just work.

The app makes one outbound call, an update check. Buy the paid tier later and it also checks the licence, which sends the key and the version number. Nothing about you, nothing about your machine. Firewall it and watch.

It reads sensors and does not write to them. Fan control is what I'm building out next, and it'll be worth having when it lands.

Free, and the live monitor stays free permanently. The paid tier adds history and depth, one payment, no subscription.

I'd rather hear what's broken than get compliments. If something reads wrong, reads zero, or doesn't show up, tell me what board you're on and I'll dig into it. Hardware monitoring gets weird at the edges, and where a board doesn't expose a sensor I'll say so rather than invent a number.

While trying to get some unallocated memory for laptop upgrade i mistakenly deleted the drive D: instead of drive E:. I have been trying to figure out a way to restore it but to no avail I keep failing. I'm using a dell Inspiron 5 11th gen. Any tips on how I can recover my lost data ?

I've seen a few tutorials on how to handle it but I'm using the latest version of both windows and edge and none of the methods worked,

I couldn't edit the jason file which controls the region

Wintoys doesn't have that digital marketing act switch anymore

And i only tried one console method but to no avail, any luck you guys?

Edit: it is 7 years old, not 4!

I have a Tt Water 3.0 cooling kit with two exhaust fans at the top of my tower. It was working fine 2 hours ago. After cleaning my tower and connecting everything again the rear fan is extremely slow and buzzing, which wasn't happening before. This is as soon as the PC boots.

Eventually it speeds up but not to full throttle and when I shut down the PC that fan stops instantly while the other winds down.

I don't see any obstructions.

Before I buy another water cooling kit I want to know if this one is truely dead. My guess is a bearing came loose but wanted to get the opinions of you fine folks first.

Video speaks a thousand words: https://youtu.be/HQe832PA2jA?is=XEh8IDV2ZrNLs6es

Closer, illuminated view (yes, fan housing and radiator are dirty - can't clean that lol): https://youtu.be/PdWsasZYR5k?is=w8ZpHc-wjM7gcpcv

Update: My PC shut down after about 1 minute if it is a clue - just running Wndows was noticeably slow. Trying to start it again there was no video signal. Shut down after 40 seconds. Final attempt it shut down after 3 seconds.

Win 11, Ryzen 9700x, 9070XT (Driver: 32.0.31041.1004), 32GB DDR5 G.Skill 6000MT, ASRock B650M-HDV/M.2, 750W PSU MSI MAG A750GL. 1440p monitor freesync enabled

Alan Wake 2, Mortal Shell 2, The First Beserker Khazan, Peak, Lies of P are some issue games. RE9, KCD2 and Clair Obscur E33 are examples of games that run fine.

I have Jsons and screenshots on CapFrameX for Alan Wake 2. Don't know how to upload the Jsons here but here is the screenshots of the graphs https://imgur.com/a/3YmcdmU

Trying my best to keep this short. These games almost always seem to start out extremely smooth during starting areas then become a stuttering mess 1-2 hours in and then remain that way. To be very clear, some of these games became borderline unplayable, including Lies of P which was locked smooth until I left the hub area. Sometimes if I mess with windowed/fullscreen, vsync or some other major settings in game it will smooth out but then return 5-15 minutes later. Lowering the overall settings just gives me more frames but the stutters remain. Locking the FPS at 60, 90, 144 doesn't help either. Other metrics including the temps all seem normal from the screenshot I provided.

Things tried:

• HAGS on/off
• AMD Cleaner and fresh driver install
• BIOS defaults, EXPO off would crash Mortal Shell during loading save
• Memtest86 and some Memory stress test (I cant remember what its called)
• Samsung Magician SMART and Full scan
• HWINFO32 logging and all looked normal there as well
• No WHEA log errors.
• Many others I cant think of right now

Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Even just pointing me at some diagnostics I could try or things that could be related. I can provide more info if needed.

Well I'm searching about this topic for hours now and wanted to ask people about the problem I'm having. You might not see this as a problem depending on your perspective too.
Keyboard: Corsair K55 RGB Pro Membrane

Long story short, I want to remap/reassign/reprogram the G Keys (macro keys) to function keys above F12 (so G1=F13, G2=F14, G3=F15...) and it looks impossible

• Default keys for G Keys are numbers (G1=1, G2=2...) so I can't solve it by doing a factory reset.
• iCUE software and my keyboard's firmware is all up-to-date.
• The official Corsair iCUE software does not have a feature to write remaps over onboard memory so I can't even use the official software to remap from the onboard memory. I don't want this software to run in the background.
• The only thing I'm able to do is press the macro button on this keyboard to start recording keys for macro keys.
• I can't trick it by making a program press F13 after I start recording because it has nothing to do with the operating system.
• I saw that there is a software on linux (which I have Arch installed on my computer) for corsair hardwares. I don't know if it's too different from the original software.
• I don't know if I can remove, modify or edit the firmware to reprogram those G Keys. It's probably possible but needs some reverse engineering as I suppose. (I don't have a problem about warranty)
• I also searched for 3rd party firmwares compatible with corsair keyboards and found nothing.
• Well I can use an adapter between keyboard and pc to send a different data to pc but it will increase the delay so it's not so efficient.

What do you think? How would this problem be solved? Don't say things like buy a new keyboard or stream deck 😁 I just love this kind of keyboards (big and has lots of functions) and don't want to switch.
^{I know this post is almost useless because I don't know anything about reverse engineering :/ But I probably will pay a person to do it for me as soon as i figure out.}

I have an app based on this repo: https://github.com/seanpmaxwell/express-generator-typescript

I made my changes to it and tested it by running it locally using `npm run dev`. There is also a `npm run prod` command.

I have IIS manager on my PC, which is allowing me set up a website on a remote server. So far, I've put my web server project folder in the wwwroot folder and gone into IIS Manager and added a new website and set the bindings to http, set the IP address to 192.168.5.36 because it was in the dropdown, left the port on 80, and set the hostname to www.MyExpressApp.com. When I navigate to http://192.168.5.36, I see the Windows Server Internet Information Services page.

I then try to navigate to http://192.168.5.36/MyFirstPath and the browser shows a 404 error. At some point in all this, I need to run the command `npm run prod`, so I missed that somewhere, but not sure where I'd do that in IIS manager

I have been trying to fix my sisters laptop for a day now, unfortunstely it just acts weird

Her win11 install is the laggiest i have ever seen win11 run. Its running at 2fps and everything takes longer to load. Then after 5 mins of waiting, it just works.

Ive also checked the thermals, disk usage, cpu usage and ram but nope, nothing seems wrong. I thought this could be malware but the weirdest thing is it behave the same on a fresh installer!!

I did test a live limux iso that worked flawlesly (not i will not install linux on her pc)

The laptop is a lenovo x390 yoga rocking a 250gb ssd

(I wonder if she may hace bad ram as she only has 8gb, although i have never seen ram fail this way, ill see if i can do some mem check later today)

(Windows 11)

I have changed my preferred download drive to my hard drives, download everything on my hard drives, I use to clean disk tool thing, I empty my recycling, I tried to do the "change drive letter and paths..." thing as well but nothing seems to actually do anything and I don't know what else I can do. I only have like 3 apps downloaded on my Local Disk and they only take up like 17GB of storage so I have no idea what the other like 65GB of apps are???

I have 118 GB (Local Disk), and two 1.81 TB hard drives

I have an MSI GF63 that I got a while back in 2019. I've since updated to a Katana 15 but I want to use my newer laptop to just browse through the files on the old one and see if there's anything on there worth keeping I may have forgotten about in the last 5 years of it being on there, photos and such mostly. My issue is this, I'm trying to look through the folders, but 75% of the time if the file is larger than 75kb it's taking on average 3 minutes to load, longest so far has been 15min to load my steam library. If there's anyway I can just look through this more efficiently I'd love to hear yalls thoughts. Ik about network sharing but that would need a network folder and I plan to just transfer what I need via flash drive.

Apparently images aren't allowed to be included or else I'd show exactly what it looks like. Today I tried to pull out my ol' reliable flash drive for movie night only to discover it no longer lit up when plugged in. My PC didnt recognize it, then neither did my TV, nor even my Phone via the USB-C end that was built-in (it was a USB/USB-C stick) I noticed that both ends were very loose and slid in and out. Finally after trying all manner of angles plugging it into multiple devices to no avail I finally took off the plastic cover to discover the whole chip was outright split in two. I do not abuse my hardware, I learned early in life from thousands of unusable PS2 discs to treat my tech with tenderness. I dont know how it could've cracked in half when it's for the most part only been left sitting in safe places for storage or left plugged in. If you need photos to see how likely it is that I could salvage the files from the memory and its possible to at least send replies with images I'll gladly do so.

TLDR: computer chip of my USB stick somehow broke in two from within the plastic casing and I need to know if its possible to salvage the files inside. I can send images if necessary

I can’t post a video showing what’s happening but it’s as quick as snapping your fingers, my screen will flash dark and light, Random and about 30 seconds apart. So far only while on YouTube. I’m using brave and had hardware acceleration on and when it’s off it doesn’t happen. I’d like to use hw acceleration because on some websites I drop frames on playback for videos. Another major issue is when scrolling through YouTube shorts for an extended period my computer will freeze up and I have to force a restart. I have a mid-high end pc with an 3080ti and ryzen 9 7900x

It was working yesterday but somehow the screen is all black. I don't know if my PC or monitor is the problem. When I turn off and on the monitor, the desktop shows abit then immediately black screen again. The cable HDMI is properly connected, I even tried the VGA cable but still the same. I'm pretty noob about PC btw.

I'm not sure exactly if this is the right place to post this, but i cant find a real answer to this myself.

Say i have a 120hz monitor but i can only run a game at 100 fps. To my understanding frame generation at minimum must generate 1 frame per real frame. Does this mean in my case if i were to enable frame generation i would only be seeing 60 real frames and 60 fake frames or is the software smart enough to prioritise real frames if there is overhead? In the case that it forces a rough 50/50, would my input latency only match 60 fps too?

i have 2 hard drives submerged in the flood. can it be saved?

Hello. I purchased a DELL laptop today and went to set up a Microsoft account. I used my primary gmail account. I realized afterwards that I had used that email to set up my daughter’s Minecraft account 5 years ago so the Microsoft account is technically a minor account. I cannot delete it because she still uses Minecraft and I don’t want to change the date of birth or privacy setting to an adult for safety reasons while she uses Minecraft. Is there a way for me to separate her account from my email without deleting her Minecraft world? Should I just create a new email to use for the Microsoft account?

I'm using a Hyper X Quadcast 2 as my microphone and out of the blue it stops working. For some reason I have to press the mute button on top of the microphone and mute then unmute it for it to actually start recording whenever something new starts recording my voice. I have no idea why it won't record automatically and it's real annoying to deal with every time. Hopefully one of you can help me remove this problem.

My mouse keeps not wanting to click on anything or just stuff in my taskbar in tried everything I see on google and this subreddit but nothing works from the ctrl alt delete escape method to reinstalling the mouse drivers and different mouse does not work I’ve scanned my software with sfc/scan now nothing seems to work and it’s getting frustrating I just want anything that could fix this cuase I need to be able to use my computer not just for games but for my college work please any help would be appreciated

I have been having some serious trouble with it this, l have watched like 20 videos to try and figure it out, l tried to contact steam and got no response so this is kind of my last resort. To give some specific info l have a m4 Mac air and I have it connected to my monitor through an hdmi adapter. I have an Xbox series x controller and I have steam download and I have Minecraft download and paid for. What I can't seem to figure out is how to use my controller in game. I have a layout downloaded from community layouts for controller settings on Java. ( this might be the problem but I have tried multiple and none work at all). I haven't purchased anything on steam yet, I saw somewhere that you need to purchase 5$ worth of content to gain access to community features but I don't think that's is either. Can anyone help me with this issue?

How do I remove the folder. It is stuck on my d drive

My Specs:
- RTX 4080 Super
- DDR4 32gb 2666 MT/s
- B760M DS3H AX DDR4
- 13th Gen Intel(R) Core(TM) i9-13900k
- Predator SSD GM7000 2TB
- SP M.2 PCIe Gen 3 SSD 1TB (Using SSD USB-C Adapter)

This August I have been experiencing so many BSODs, even today. I have no clue whats causing it. I was considering maybe my second SSD was causing the problem but even with it removed the BSOD continues. When I go to the boot menu I don’t see my primary SSD anywhere, but when I plug back the second SSD suddenly both appear.

Also for some reason the second SSD doesn’t appear when it’s only installed by itself from the motherboard. I have to use an Adapter to make use of it. I will also like to say it does have windows. Both of em do.