We recently got new carpet in our upstairs and I decided my wife's and my current desk situation was dismal. I work at home 99% of the time and she's at home 2-3 days a week.

I learned about the Alex drawer / Karbly counter top hack and went for it and did a total desk/home refresh.

I got the 74 and 96 inch Karlby countertops and I used 4 steal joiner plates where they met. I ended up using 5 of the support beams and it feels rock solid.

Overall, it feels like a massive upgrade and I'm extremely happy with how it turned out.

And yes I know I need to do chord management.

I want to make something like this in my pantry, I currently have wire shelving. I was thinking maybe sektion cabinets but my closet is about 22” deep.

Hi guys! I’m planning to buy a standing/ desk skådis for my working table. I don’t want to drill on the wall so I probably would opt for the desk skådis. How did you design yours? Thinking of just putting a calendar, maybe picture frame/or just printed photos, maybe a shelf for my coasters and few magnet hooks for small dangling stuff. Looking for minimalist inspo! 😊

I've always loved the billy bookcase built in projects I've seen over the years, and after seeing so many processes I was (mostly) confident that I could do something similar. I love MCM style modular shelving and considered quite a few different ikea pieces and ended up choosing the Ivar cabinets because the solid pine and the sliding doors. They also happened to be just about the right depth for the little alcoves in my living room.

Started with 2x4 bases, added white oak veneer to the sliding doors of the 4 ivars, bought white oak plywood for the tops, toe kicks, and little shelf spacers between the ivar cabinets. Stained and clear coated all the visible bits and installed everything (adding the sliding doors dead last). I love them! I was stoked the the little shelf space between the ivars is perfect for electronics storage/charging, etc. There are def some little oopsies throughout but I'm still so pleased.

Still looking for a great print or something for the empty area below the orange telephone. I'm excited to to style the shelves for Halloween and Christmas!

Hello,

We want to spruce up our hallway but our circuit breaker is in the way from to ground to the ceiling. We would like to have a pax on this wall to store choose and some clothes.

Is it possible to cut a pax module to fit around the circuit breaker, the conduit and be against the wall ?

First pic is the actual hallway and the 2nd what we would want.

Upcycled these ikea items I got from the 2nd hand shops. I painted the solvinden ultramarine blue because it wasn't really in a good condition when I got it (it had a couple of stains and marks) and I think it goes well with the orange color xD

The väte lamp shade is over 15 years old I believe, it's been discontinued for a while now.. luckily I was able to get it in a good state (almost new) because the seller kept it in a storage box and never used it.

What do you think? :D

Hi everyone,

I'm facing the following problem right now: I need a 5x3 and 5x2 Kallax which will be used in vertical orientation. I figured I could build it with the minimum sets being the 5x5, 3x1 and 2x2 if I got it right (please correct me if not).

But that leads me to another issue: For stability of the single "cubes", I would like to use the "continuous" panels for the cube floors, not the "dividers" that use dowels. But as far as I understand, the plan using the sets I wrote above would need to (partly?) make the dividers the cube floors. If I want to use continuous panels for the floors only, I ended up with needing like 8 sets?

Did I get that right? If so, do you have any other ideas what the best and most cost-effective way could be to achieve these 5x3 and 5x2 builds and still have cube floors that do not use the dividers / rely on dowels?

Thanks in advance for any help. Feel free to ask if information is missing

Hey there. I’m building a home theater in my basement and I have some unique constraints. Because the ceiling height is low and the TV is 98”, I need an ultra low TV stand to put my AV gear in. The height of the stand needs to be 12” and the depth needs to be >20”. The width should be somewhere between 70” to 85” with at least 3 partitions.

Is there anything in Ikea that I can use for this purpose?

Thank you!

Sorry about the very very rough drawing.

Ive got a wall thats 220cm long and 240 cm tall. I've been doing the maths with different ikea items and everything seems like it would have too much of a gap. I'm also struggling to work out a draw that would be right as well. I really want it to be massive and soft close.

The goal is to have 2 or 3 or 4 losts of book shelves (which fits best) with 1 or 2 large draws under each one.

I'm going to make glass door for the book shelves that looks arched.

I bought a used Ikea Kivik chaise longue and its pillow is very soft. The owner said he used it for 4 years but the seat cushion is very sat through. Has anyone changed the cushion before and can tell me what to use instead? Or should I just add something underneath or on top of the original cushion inside the cover?

Any help or experiences would help!

I want to put a display cabinet and a low cabinet in a corner of my living room. I was initially thinking of going with the typical option: a low BILLY bookcase and several BILLY glass-door cabinets together.

But to make it a bit more personal, I also had the idea of building a display cabinet using the IVAR system. The low cabinet would simply be an IVAR cabinet with doors. For the display cabinet, my idea would be to use two 226 cm tall IVAR side units, with a low cabinet at the bottom, a drawer on top of it, and then another IVAR cabinet above the drawer. I would cut openings into the doors of the upper cabinet and add glass panels to turn it into a display cabinet.

I like the idea of using real wood rather than the wood-effect material used in the BILLY system.

Below I’ve included a mock-up of the living room with the IVAR units, as well as an AI-generated image showing roughly what the display cabinet built with the IVAR system could look like.

I’m not sure whether the IVAR idea is actually feasible, or whether it would be better to just go with the BILLY option. What do you guys think?

Has anybody tried cutting their lydersholm rug? I love this rug under dining tables, but my dining room has a quite irregular shape so the rug’s rectangular shape feels weird. I would therefore like to trim a few inches here and there. Has anyone tried it? How should I finish the edges? Any tips?

Thanks!

Added some additional MDF boards and a desktop. The MDF is covered with furniture foil, so you can probably barely see it in the picture. Also added some rubber sheets to reduce vibrations. Everything is screwed together.

I've never done an IKEA hack before, and I'd appreciate any guidance anybody could offer.

I'm sure everybody has seen the MALM desks and the ALEX desks. I'm trying to make something similar, but with the drawers only on one side, like in the image. However, I want to use a six-drawer STORKLINTA and the 98-inch EKBACKEN.

Is these even doable with the laminate EKBACKEN, or do I need a real wood countertop? What kind of screws do I need? Do I need any additional pieces besides the dresser, the countertop, the legs, and the screws?

Looking at a few options for our home office. key point is we rent so I don't want to have to fix suspended cabinets to walls.

I like the idea of this layout - I could fit an eckbacken bench underneath with some posts to make a dual workspace desk.

how could i go about fixing the two "floating" units to the book shelves? i could use L-brackets on the sides and some kind of t-bar across the top

The suspended units weigh about 16kg each. filling them would be limited to trinkets etc that would not need regular access.

or would plasta be a better solution given they advertise some options like this? e.g. the over-bed units

I'm making a children's bedroom based on Trofast. They are all the white kind. I have a bunch of the 46cm wide, 145 tall ones. I also have a shorter one for under the window and some smaller size wall ones.

I want to buy some 93cm height, 46 wide ones and place them on top of the 145 high ones, as there's a full wall of lost space there.

What would be the safest way to do that?

This is about what I'm looking for, but looks more fancy/complicated than what I was planning.

ETA- or maybe there are other ideas for using that space that I haven't yet thought of

I am currently redesigning my mudroom and was wondering if anyone had any advice on how i could add a rod for hanging jackets to this. Kind of like in the second picture. I am mainly concerned with stability and the connection points.

Hi everyone! My husband and I finally got a new bed. We purchased the Tonstad model from IKEA. My husband is allergic to the cats I brought into our marriage. Usually his symptoms are manageable with daily medication. But about a week after we installed the new bed, we kept finding cat fur and dander on his clothes which was causing minor reactions. We quickly realized that the box spring and mattress on the bed, it leaves a wide gap so our cats are crawling in and hanging out on her clothes. Any suggestions on how to close this off so the cats are unable to enter? They are anxious cats so we don’t want to eliminate their comfort of being able to hide under the bed, but we’d really like to avoid them getting into the drawers if possible. ANY advice would be appreciated.

Hi there! I'm trying to maximize the space that i use on the Micke corner workstation shelves. They're a little cluttered, but if I can organize them in a nicer fashion, I might get more out of them. On the left side of the desk, there is a file storage swivel drawer (I don't know the technical term for it.) This is what it looks like.

I was wondering if there was any way to utilize it for something else. I don't really use files or notebooks at my desk, and I was thinking about designing a 3D printable insert for it to hold... something (maybe paints?). I figured that other people here would have ideas/have already repurposed it to something. The only other option that I can think of is to remove the drawer entirely and put slide out drawers to hold stuff instead.

Any insight or suggestions are appreciated!

We built this bedroom wall to wall dresser using 8 Ikea kitchen boxes and Voxtorp drawer covers. Idealy, I'd like to add another rown under these using cut off drawer fronts and some kind of drawer on casters to store shoes. The under bed storage options at Ikea dont work because the wood support is too low to accomidate them. The wood beam is 17 1/2 cm (roughly 6.8") from floor. It is 28 cm (11") to bottom of the next drawer.

Can you cut down these Voxtorp drawer fronts without destroying them? The cut side would be facing the floor so it doesn't have to be beautiful but the front has to appear clean.

I also need ideas for a countertop. I don't think I want wood because the floor is wood and it wouldn't match and also, then I'd have to worry about having plants etc... I don't want it to look too kitcheny though ....

Anyone have any great ideas?

Posted this in r/vinyl and reddit suggested I post here. I'm a vinyl collector and I've been looking for a vinyl storage solution that isn't Kallax, but still simple, functional and plain to match other similar furniture. I need a taller unit but am limited on width, and if I stack the available kallax options the upper units end up incorrectly oriented so all of the weight of the vinyl ends up on the wooden dowels. I also don't think Kallax is space efficient, with those thick outer panels, especially when you start stacking units.

I happened across the shallow PAX wardrobe frames

They are 35 CM deep externally, the shelves are 33 cm deep internally. They are 50CM wide externally, and the shelves are 46CM wide internally. THey have the standard 32 mm hole spacing for adjustable shelving in continuous rows, and the holes are standard 5 mm holes so you can use heavy duty l-shaped shelf brackets.

I'm thinking of using these to store vinyl. I currently use Kallax units. Here is my rationale:

• PAX components are solid chipboard, kallax parts are a laminated chipboard frame with a paper filling.
• I don't see why using decent quality l-shaped shelf mounts would be any weaker than the 4 dowels supporting the shelves in a kallax.
• These frames can reach the full ceiling height
• The PAX units have fitted backs. Not hard to achieve on Kallax units, but harder to do with a neat rebate.
• THe PAX units have plinths to clear a skirting board, and are easier to secure to a wall. In the kallax, the brackets interfere with the internal storage in 2 of the cubes.

My only concern is whether a 46 CM span of vinyl is likely to cause ring wear on sleeves, or excessive pressure on the records, even stored upright? I can't find any information on this.

Kallax shelves are only 33 cm wide. If we assume an average LP thickness, including the outer sleeve and jacket of 4 mm, that gives us 82 records on a Kallax shelf, and 115 on a PAX shelf. Not a huge difference, but I'd be really interested in hearing from collectors on this. In reality actual storage will be less, as many are gatefolds around 6 to 8 mm in thickness.

Is anyone using PAX to store vinyl, and if so has shelf sag been an issue? If you're a vinyl collector using this or any other furniture that isn't Kallax, how wide are your shelf openings, between solid uprights or end panels? What is the longest spin of LPs leaning against each other you would consider acceptable?

If youve lost rhe aluminum pieces of a Premiar Wall Art frame.. this is easy way to replac with sturdy corner protectors saved from ordering large items, add a couple cuts.. boom.