Looking good for 15 years and 220 000 km! (136700 miles)

TIL there can be full 6 buttons loaded on E class. I thought those 2 extra blank buttons can only be used on S classes with night vision and 360 cam.

I thought this was cool! Out of the Top 10 highest mileage cars ever reported, Mercedes-Benz takes the #2 and #8 spots!

#2 1976 Mercedes-Benz 240 D (2,858,307 miles)
Driven by a Greek taxi driver who swapped engines 11 times over decades of service. Mercedes-Benz was so impressed they traded him a brand-new C-Class for it to display in their museum.

#8 1966 Mercedes-Benz 250 SE (1,280,000 miles)
Maintained by its original owners for decades.

You can see the full list here: https://www.cargurus.com/research/articles/highest-mileage-cars-ever-reported

My 06 w220 s430, 128k miles, that I bought off fb marketplace was honestly kind of a shitter. I’ve spent over 10k fixing it up, granted I don’t do my own work so that’s why it has been so expensive. Car runs great now though. I have no idea when the last time the trans was serviced. Is it a bad idea to have it serviced now?

New to Mercedes, I was a Honda mechanic for five years. This vehicle was passed down to me from my father when he passed away nine years ago.

it’s been a lot of fun to learn and teach myself about this car. I’m happy to see they have a nice following still 🙏🏾

Hi all.

Recently took possession of a 2026 CLA 250+ with the superscreen, just to find out that I can neither control the Spotify account from it because I can't log in with the same profile on that screen, nor can I have the copilot pull up the map and make changes or searches or add waypoints or anything, because they actually have NO GPS or map on their screen.

So... Basically unless the passenger wants to watch YouTube, there isn't much they can do on the screen. Not even watch Netflix.

Am I missing something maybe?

Also, when I try to enable some functions, the AI tells me to go to the"grid of nine" in the Multimedia system. I have no idea what that is. Any ideas? I wanted to turn on the warning for the static traffic and speed cameras (legal in our country).

First W464 in the US at the NGAUS 2026 in Indianapolis, Indiana

Source: https://www.linkedin.com/posts/amber-addington_ngaus2026-activity-7499605546581479425-H4mr/

Found a 2014 CLS550 with a little over 80k miles (roughly 129,000 km) and I want to know from some experts how reliable these cars are? I don’t plan on driving it every single day. Maybe 3-4 times a week at most but I want something that will last at-least a few years before I have to do anything other than routine maintenance. I have always loved these cars and it is pretty much a dream car for me to own. However my wife & I recently bought a house and I cant afford to own a car that will cost me a bunch in maintenance. I understand that these are essentially performance cars and will require maintenance but I do not want something that will break my pockets.

So i need some advice. Im looking at the c63, specifically a 2015. My budget is around 25-28k. All im seeing are ones with near or over 100k miles. My question, is it worth that much with those miles? Im new to the community and need educated. I just dont want to spend that much and not get some good years out of it. Any advice is appreciated.

I love the gle coupe but the plastic bumper on the back looks horrible. Does anyone know if you can get this painted to match the body? or any other options to make it not look so segmented?

My steering wheel is falling apart (corroding) it looks like the sun has been wearing it down because when I grip it, it feels sticky and if I wipe it.. black stuff comes off…. lol just bought the this turboed lawnmower from car max

Anyone experience this before?

I had to trade this beauty since I am sick of fixing its suspension. I only drove the car 16k miles since buying it 2.5 years ago. I honestly wish I put coil overs on her but to me that that didn't feel right. I fortunately sold this to someone that actually owns an Indy shop. Since owning it I have replaced numerous lines, 3 hydraulic pumps. Every pump died. Probably since I chose to drive the car rather then towing it to the shop which was less then a mile away But all the struts, the accumulators and height sensors were replaced. But last week she blew another line and I was told they have to pull the engine just to solve the problem. I already gave this Indy 8k just for the labor since I typically can find the parts for cheaper. I use new parts and namebrand. Just avoiding their parts fee. Another 4k in labor on other issues. They said it would be another 6k to get it back on the road but they recommended a total of 14k to re do all the lines, motor mounts and everything else they could do after pulling the engine to help save me in the future. The Indy shop seems to be very fair and cheaper then other shops around especially since I am close friends with the owners son.

TLDR: DON'T BUT AN R230!!!

Unless you have massively deep pockets or know what your doing

I spent close to 30k on this car to end up selling it to someone who knows these cars for 4k with him being generous. I asked many shops and techs if they would buy it and they told me 1800-2000 since the suspension needs so much work even after 10-12k spent on it.

I am saying good bye to Mercedes for now since I have learned I bought probably one of the worst of the worst Mercedes to own maintenance wise. Other than that it was a great car. Sorry for the doom and gloom post

Hi, I have a 2011 Mercedes C180 CGI (C204, M271 EVO).

After replacing the intake manifold and swirl flap actuator, the car runs perfectly and currently has no fault codes.

However, I noticed a new loud noise under hard acceleration. It only happens while driving under load – I cannot reproduce it by revving the engine while stationary.

When I suddenly press the throttle, I first hear a high-pitched “TIIII” sound, followed immediately by a loud “TSSSSSH” as the first sound fades away. With gentle/normal acceleration there is no unusual noise.

I’m attaching a video with the exact sound. Does this sound like a boost leak, turbo/intake noise, diverter valve, or something else?

Hi guys...
I'm really stumped at the moment.
The thing is, I had some issues with my MB Sprinter 317 (2020), and I've usually handed the car into the dealer to get everything fixed. This time around, they just couldn't get it right, even though we changed parts for more than 10K.
Then there was a friend of mine, who knew another friend, who could access the PCM/ECU thing (or what it is called), and get rid of all codes and what not. After this the car run perfect.
But here's where things get stupid...
Because I also have a MB Sprinter 316 (2016) which we also changed a bunch of parts on, like dpf, intercooler, catalysator, turbo, nox censors and more. And the car was eventually finally working fine. This guy told me he could fix this car as well, so that we'll not get any further issues with ad-blue, dpf etc. And, as he literally saved the other car, I thought it was worth it.
And boy I was wrong....

Now the car wont pass 3k RPM uphills, and is a really pain to drive. I've tried to get in touch with this guy and ask him for a full reset, you know, go back to last good configuration, but he has not answered my calls. Is it possible to go to an authorized dealer to reset everything, like, insert new software to the "brain" or whatever they do, so that we're back to square one yet again?

I'm really stumped here, and I really regret doing this. But if the authorized dealer could reset everything back to original software, maybe I could save the car.

And thanks for all your tips and tricks in advance. And yes, I know I f'd up...

I just recently leased a Mercedes with this color it was a very very good lease deal.

It's beautiful but makes me nervous as I don't want to ruin it and get destroyed on turn in. Any recommendations on taking care of it, and what you to do wash it? would love some recommendations on products, do you use a foam cannon/pressure washer?