Went home to New Zealand and finally dragged my Silvia S14 out after it had been sitting untouched for nearly 3 years 🇳🇿
The original plan was pretty simple: get it out of storage, see if it still ran, give it a quick refresh and get it back on the road.
As usual, that escalated 😂
Ended up spending a good chunk of my trip sanding, fixing things, painting it and generally questioning why I thought this was going to be a quick job.
Pretty stoked with how it came out though — especially seeing it driving again after being abandoned for so long.
I filmed the whole process if anyone’s into old-school JDM stuff / S-chassis builds. Would genuinely appreciate any feedback on the video too

https://youtu.be/QtzmCBXF0ks?is=sZybny0wdJlAKvP8

1972 Volvo 1800es
1972 Opel Gt
1980 Mercedes 450sl

Another week to get the top sprayed and it'll be back home for carpeting, new seat heaters and upholstery.

A few months ago I bought my first project car, a 2005 350z with 155000 miles. I was really excited to try building it into a street/drift project that I've always wanted. However, because of construction on my street, issues with the engine, college, and money, I've driven it maybe 3 times in the last 4 months. So, I've resolved to sell it. I just feel bad because I really think that it's issues are fixable. II just have no will to work on it, partly because I know to build it into the car I want will cost more than I want to spend right now. Even though I want to drive it so bad I can't see straight. My thinking is by selling it now, I can save more money and get a cleaner example next summer. My rational brain just tells me that its not smart to spend that much on a second car at my age, plus I'm scared of a similar thing happening next time.

Sorry, this is me just rambling a bit, but I'd love to know about some of your experiences with similar things and take any advice from people who know more than me

got into a car accident a few months ago and she’s just been sitting cause money has been tight. to be honest i have no idea what im doing when it comes to getting her fixed up, any advice would be appreciated.

Hi all,
Currently working on engine swapping my 85’ ST141 Corona and am a little stuck on what engine would be good to put in it. Any and all advice is appreciated.

I was originally aiming for a 3SGE but they are too hard to find in Aus.

Cheers

Got to mockup the seat the past weekend with the transmission crossmember mounted in the car and I wanted to post a bit of a hype post for myself. I also have to periodically remind myself what we’ve done.

For reference, anything struck out is parts I aquired but changed the design on, italicized are parts that I acquired but haven’t yet integrated:

-1992 Toyota** **Corolla, 4th owner at least, 265k miles that I put a six point cage in.

-Chevy S-10 rear axle** **Mercedes SL550 rear subframe with E350 rear calipers and rotors, Gen 1 Tacoma coilovers, 2018 Mini Cooper 16” steel wheels

-Ford Crown Vic front subframe SN95 Mustang front coilovers, spindles, hubs, and brakes custom spindles with Taurus brakes, hubs, and steel wheel Corolla aftermarket coilovers, Camry knuckles, hubs, brakes and lower control arms, VW Mk6 Golf front sway bar, Lincoln MkVIII steering rack with Camry steering column

-Chrysler Pacifica 4.0L V6 2000 Toyota Camry 5S-FE, harmonic dampener delete, with Celica headers/fuel regulator, NB Miata intake manifold and throttle body modified aftermarket 2JZ intake and 1MZ-FE throttle body, MR2 oil pan, Chevy 350 engine mounts F-250 cab body mounts for engine mounts, Summit oil filter relocation kit

-Chevy S-10 NV1500 Ford Mustang V6 T5 Chevy S-10 T5 with a bellhousing from cut up 4 speed Camry automatic transmission Nissan Sentra 13” steel wheel

-Chrysler LeBaron flywheel Camry flywheel and pressure plate, 1986 Ford Mustang I6 clutch disk and pressure plate Chevy S-10 clutch disk and all other clutch components, BMW E36 M3 pilot bearing

-Aftermarket Miata NA/NB dual core radiator, GM LS coolant hoses, and VW Golf coolant overflow reservoir

-F150 battery group size and battery mount, PCB power distribution circuit card, Microsquirt ECU.

-BMW E34 lights, grille, and horn. Camry brake master cylinder (still needs to be converted to discs), BMW E36 pedal group

-ATL Fuel cell with dual Walbro 155LPH external pumps, custom fuel plate to accept large rollover valve and Summit fuel sender unit

-Modified Celica aftermarket header with V band clamps, 2.5” mild steel tubing, and Cherry Bomb Salute muffler with 3”x1” rectangular tubing exhaust tip. Spartan V3 O2 Wideband sensor module with Bosch 4.9 LSU

1968 Thunderbird with the 429, undercarriage is still mostly factory black paint, and I am STOKED that I was able to drive it back!

Most of what I’ve done in the last two years. I’m sure I’m forgetting some things.
Tanks INC 15 gallon tank
In tank Walboro fuel pump
Holley Sniper EFI
Custom intake manifold
6AN fuel lines
Serviceable fuel filter
Fuel pressure gauge
Electronic distributor
MSD coil
MSD wires
Nissan frontier alternator
Vintage Air sure fit
Catch can with 10AN line
KYB shocks
Eibach progressive springs
Camber plates front and rear
LED headlights
Resurrected classics turn signals
Custom LED sequential tail lights
240z tail light surround
Tucked and sectioned 240z front bumper
custom front grille
New stainless exhaust with flow master 40 series
10 inch touch screen head unit
Recaro SE reupholstered seats
5 speed swap
Rear disc brake swap
MSA air dam and rear spoiler
New Starter
New battery
Konig wheels and new tires
Fuel gauge and programmer
Third brake light
New tie rod ends
New steering boots
Custom rear chassis brace
New front ball joints
Mishimoto Radiator
New weatherstripping
Dayco harmonic balancer
R200 differential swap
MSA driveshaft
Wheel bearings
Futofab axles
New suspension bushings
New diff mount
RT style diff snubber
New transmission mount

Hi guys,

Got a Merc engine in my Volvo and intend to get the air-conditioning system working. I only have the evaporator left from the original system so I'm struggling on how to size the condensor, what expansion valve type is best etc. if anyone can help or give me some links to read id be chuffed!

Volvo 960 is designed around a 7kw evaporator

Merc w203 compressor is designed around a 5kw system

Ta lads

Hello everyone
I own a Pontiac firebird 2002 v6 for nearly 20 years. It was my dads car which passed on to me 2 years ago and now i want to make it faster
I just restored it from the outside like paint and bumpers but now I’m deciding on an engine swap

Im opting for a hellcat swapped firebird
The 700-800hp hellcat engine and transmission with a Holley ECU and other goodies

What is your opinion on this build as i dont want my build to be like every other LS built Pontiac.

This is not my daily driver or my first hight horsepower car
I own 2 mustangs and c63 blackseries and want this pontiac to be a stripped drag only car

This is purely hypothetical but I guess you guys would know a thing or two about this. If I were to increase the wheel size of the rear driving wheels, but keep the size of the front wheels the same size, what impact would that have on handling, would it cause some balance issues. Also when I say wheel size I mean both tire and rim size, the sidewall would be the same just different size rims from 13-14 to 15-16 inches.

Edit: The car in question is a 1960s Opel Kadett Coupe.

TL;DR - Great grandmother's car. First car I ever drove. Been sitting in the yard for 30 years. Now its mine. 307/TH350/power brakes/power steering/factory air/radio. 47k original miles.

Story time!

My great grandmother bought this 1970 Nova brand new. It has a 307, TH350, factory AC, power steering, power brakes, and a radio. It's 'Gobi Beige' with a 'Dark Gold' vinyl roof and a 'Medium Gold' cloth interior. Like the little old lady trope she literally drove it to the store and home (but unlike the joke she was a speed machine and just basically floored it everywhere she went). I remember riding in it with her when I was a kid (like 7 or 8) and giggling my ass off. That might have been what started this path for wanting speed. Granted a 307 is a boat anchor but to a 7 year old it might as well have been powered by rockets.

When she passed my grandfather got it and barely drove it. This was the first car I ever drove when I was 13 and then promptly did a powerbrake burnout I had read about (and then subsequently never got to drive it again). He had my uncle repaint it at some point about 30 years ago but otherwise it has just sat. The tag on it says '95 and I believe it.

It has been sitting in their yard on flat tires basically this entire time. The tires are so old they say 'Sears' on them (I think the 4th pic shows it on the flat tires).

Grandfather died a few years ago and my aunt became the executor of their estate. The car was specifically willed to her but she's come to the realization that she doesn't have any of the things needed to resurrect this car so she agreed to sell it to me after decades of me trying to get it.

I bought some Rally wheels last week and yesterday one of my friends and I went over and picked it up. The floors are surprisingly intact. The rear brakes are seized like they owed the IRS millions so that was entertaining. There is definitely mold. This car has an original 47k miles on it!

I'm not going to start on it until my '72 Caddy is back on the road but I'm making good progress there. I don't plan on restoring it but keeping the outside mostly stock looking. My aunt wanted me to put my spin on it (whatever that means) so it'll probably get a new motor at some point (anything but an LS), disc brakes, mostly new interior where needed, and a stereo. We'll see what the car tells me when I get started and I'll go from there.

I figured out the issue with the no start conditions being that the crank sensor died but heres a few things since my last updat motor mounts are dont driveshaft is installed and the car is on the ground now

Onto the other pictures

1 is a replacement for the crank sensor of the 89 ford taurus sho engine that sits with the cam sensor and uses the dead crank sensors wiring

2 is how i plan on replacing the ccrm since honestly i have no need for it and it looks ugly compared to the box

Trying to add lights and switch panels to my truck, previous wiring job caught on fire. What’s the proper way to wire in 3-4 separate lights safely?

Let's see if I even get to "project" anything. First I have to fight the rust before it spreads!

A while back I had to seat the ring gear and torque down the retainer bolts.

I had no way to hold the unit still, so I ratchet strapped it to a pallet and my trailer.

And it worked!

I couldn't find the allegedly weekly purchase advice megathread, so here we go:

At a car show yesterday, a guy had (as the title describes) this.

Runs and drives (that's how he got it there).

Odometer and A/C don't work, and rear power locks struggle to unlock (not a big deal, old solenoids, my FJ62 has the same issue).

He wants 2500, and it comes with a parts car.

Has both color-matched center hubcaps and original alloy wheels, and the donor gauge cluster has a working odometer. Also has a rigid plastic snap-on dash cover. Seats are all in good shape, and (not that it matters), it still has the original first aud kit. Seller claims the fuel injection seals were replaced in the last year.

I have the guy's number, and I'm tempted to reach out to get under it for real and see how bad the rust really is. Considering we're in the midwest, and based on what I can see, this car hasn't been out every winter. If it had, it would be way worse, way farther up the body. All rust pics are from the right side, because the left had none visible externally.

The only big thing leading me towards *not* getting it is I don't have indoor space (that's already taken by my '89 FJ62) to work on it and store it through midwestern winters. I'd also like to landscape some space on my property to keep vegetation down where I'd put the parts car, which isn't cheap.

From research I've done, I've seen similar condition and model year 280SEs go for 5-mid 6s.

My mechanical aptitude:

I pulled the FA20 from my daily, a 2017 WRX, to do clutch, flywheel, and spark plugs, with help. I do brakes and oil changes myself on all my vehicles. I've rebuilt the carburetor on my family's 1921 Ford Model TT, and I used to work on robots and industrial electronics professionally.

I've always had a thing for older German cars. I have a basic understanding of German too, and have some friends in Germany as well if parts sourcing gets that bad. Would this be a good first foray, or is it a potential nightmare I should pass on?

If you've read this far, thank you.

The engine is making a loud popping noise when under load. Doesn't make it when reving in neutral.