Hello everyone
I own a Pontiac firebird 2002 v6 for nearly 20 years. It was my dads car which passed on to me 2 years ago and now i want to make it faster
I just restored it from the outside like paint and bumpers but now I’m deciding on an engine swap

Im opting for a hellcat swapped firebird
The 700-800hp hellcat engine and transmission with a Holley ECU and other goodies

What is your opinion on this build as i dont want my build to be like every other LS built Pontiac.

This is not my daily driver or my first hight horsepower car
I own 2 mustangs and c63 blackseries and want this pontiac to be a stripped drag only car

got into a car accident a few months ago and she’s just been sitting cause money has been tight. to be honest i have no idea what im doing when it comes to getting her fixed up, any advice would be appreciated.

This is purely hypothetical but I guess you guys would know a thing or two about this. If I were to increase the wheel size of the rear driving wheels, but keep the size of the front wheels the same size, what impact would that have on handling, would it cause some balance issues. Also when I say wheel size I mean both tire and rim size, the sidewall would be the same just different size rims from 13-14 to 15-16 inches.

Edit: The car in question is a 1960s Opel Kadett Coupe.

Been slowly working on restoring and retrofitting parts on a 996 Turbo and thinking about tackling a Hurácan retrofit next. RockAuto’s inventory doesn’t go deep enough for what I need, and I don’t trust eBay enough for anything safety critical since no real way to verify what you’re actually getting.

Two separate questions, since I think they have different answers:

1.  For parts, is there anywhere with a genuinely good track record for higher-performance/specialty parts? I’d like to know if there’s a go-to a lot of you already use that I’m just not aware of because the process of manually searching for each part across 10 different directories is getting really frustrating 

2.  For retrofit/restoration specifically, if a part needs custom fabrication or adapting rather than just swapping in, how do you find a shop that can actually do that well? Just local digging and word of mouth, or is there somewhere people post/recommend shops for this kind of work?

Appreciate any pointers since I’m trying to avoid learning the hard way on an expensive part.

Hello I need help figuring out what the difference is between these coilovers. I think the "Miata" ones have a much lower drop from stock height (~2 inches) than the "MX-5" ones (~1 inch), and I also know 100% that the "Miata" ones will fit. However, I do not know if the "MX-5" ones will fit, because the connection points are just straight up different. I don't know a whole about cars, but I cannot find stuff on the internet to figure it out. Any explanation would be appreciated, cuz I think a 2 inch drop might be too much for my needs. Thanks.

"Miata" - https://www.springrates.com/products/bc-racing-br-series-coilovers-1990-2005-mazda-miata-mx5

"MX-5" - https://www.springrates.com/products/bc-racing-br-series-coilovers-1990-2005-mazda-mx-5-nb8c

I have the option to straight trade my current car (worth 5.5k) for a 2000 v6 Chevrolet Camaro 5 speed manual. I also am in possession of an ls2 engine with t56 6 speed trans. I’m wondering if it’s a good idea to go for this swap as a first time and if it’s worth it?
I’d have access to a shop with almost everything I need I think, and am prepared to spend what I need although I would like to keep it as cheap as possible while not cutting corners. So keeping it safe and reliable. I also loves doing my last build (didint swap an engine though) so I’m excited to actually be the one to build it and so idc that I can go buy one already with an Ls. Also that’s not an option here anyway.
The car currently has had a lot of work done to including fully aftermarket break system and is in great condition body and mechanical wise, it does have 220k miles though.

So really two questions. 1. Is it worth it to drop money into this swap if I should even attempt it as a first engine swap?
And 2. What am I looking at price range to do this considering I do almost to all the work myself and spend no money on the car, engine, trans, and some other little things that come with those two (air and electrical systems)

Hi all,
Currently working on engine swapping my 85’ ST141 Corona and am a little stuck on what engine would be good to put in it. Any and all advice is appreciated.

I was originally aiming for a 3SGE but they are too hard to find in Aus.

Cheers

The engine is making a loud popping noise when under load. Doesn't make it when reving in neutral.

Hi guys,

Got a Merc engine in my Volvo and intend to get the air-conditioning system working. I only have the evaporator left from the original system so I'm struggling on how to size the condensor, what expansion valve type is best etc. if anyone can help or give me some links to read id be chuffed!

Volvo 960 is designed around a 7kw evaporator

Merc w203 compressor is designed around a 5kw system

Ta lads

Let's see if I even get to "project" anything. First I have to fight the rust before it spreads!

Another week to get the top sprayed and it'll be back home for carpeting, new seat heaters and upholstery.

1968 Thunderbird with the 429, undercarriage is still mostly factory black paint, and I am STOKED that I was able to drive it back!

Went home to New Zealand and finally dragged my Silvia S14 out after it had been sitting untouched for nearly 3 years 🇳🇿
The original plan was pretty simple: get it out of storage, see if it still ran, give it a quick refresh and get it back on the road.
As usual, that escalated 😂
Ended up spending a good chunk of my trip sanding, fixing things, painting it and generally questioning why I thought this was going to be a quick job.
Pretty stoked with how it came out though — especially seeing it driving again after being abandoned for so long.
I filmed the whole process if anyone’s into old-school JDM stuff / S-chassis builds. Would genuinely appreciate any feedback on the video too

https://youtu.be/QtzmCBXF0ks?is=sZybny0wdJlAKvP8

I couldn't find the allegedly weekly purchase advice megathread, so here we go:

At a car show yesterday, a guy had (as the title describes) this.

Runs and drives (that's how he got it there).

Odometer and A/C don't work, and rear power locks struggle to unlock (not a big deal, old solenoids, my FJ62 has the same issue).

He wants 2500, and it comes with a parts car.

Has both color-matched center hubcaps and original alloy wheels, and the donor gauge cluster has a working odometer. Also has a rigid plastic snap-on dash cover. Seats are all in good shape, and (not that it matters), it still has the original first aud kit. Seller claims the fuel injection seals were replaced in the last year.

I have the guy's number, and I'm tempted to reach out to get under it for real and see how bad the rust really is. Considering we're in the midwest, and based on what I can see, this car hasn't been out every winter. If it had, it would be way worse, way farther up the body. All rust pics are from the right side, because the left had none visible externally.

The only big thing leading me towards *not* getting it is I don't have indoor space (that's already taken by my '89 FJ62) to work on it and store it through midwestern winters. I'd also like to landscape some space on my property to keep vegetation down where I'd put the parts car, which isn't cheap.

From research I've done, I've seen similar condition and model year 280SEs go for 5-mid 6s.

My mechanical aptitude:

I pulled the FA20 from my daily, a 2017 WRX, to do clutch, flywheel, and spark plugs, with help. I do brakes and oil changes myself on all my vehicles. I've rebuilt the carburetor on my family's 1921 Ford Model TT, and I used to work on robots and industrial electronics professionally.

I've always had a thing for older German cars. I have a basic understanding of German too, and have some friends in Germany as well if parts sourcing gets that bad. Would this be a good first foray, or is it a potential nightmare I should pass on?

If you've read this far, thank you.

A few months ago I bought my first project car, a 2005 350z with 155000 miles. I was really excited to try building it into a street/drift project that I've always wanted. However, because of construction on my street, issues with the engine, college, and money, I've driven it maybe 3 times in the last 4 months. So, I've resolved to sell it. I just feel bad because I really think that it's issues are fixable. II just have no will to work on it, partly because I know to build it into the car I want will cost more than I want to spend right now. Even though I want to drive it so bad I can't see straight. My thinking is by selling it now, I can save more money and get a cleaner example next summer. My rational brain just tells me that its not smart to spend that much on a second car at my age, plus I'm scared of a similar thing happening next time.

Sorry, this is me just rambling a bit, but I'd love to know about some of your experiences with similar things and take any advice from people who know more than me

I figured out the issue with the no start conditions being that the crank sensor died but heres a few things since my last updat motor mounts are dont driveshaft is installed and the car is on the ground now

Onto the other pictures

1 is a replacement for the crank sensor of the 89 ford taurus sho engine that sits with the cam sensor and uses the dead crank sensors wiring

2 is how i plan on replacing the ccrm since honestly i have no need for it and it looks ugly compared to the box