Idk i think it sounds pretty good, for what it is at least. Lmk y’all’s opinions 🙌

Got to mockup the seat the past weekend with the transmission crossmember mounted in the car and I wanted to post a bit of a hype post for myself. I also have to periodically remind myself what we’ve done.

For reference, anything struck out is parts I aquired but changed the design on, italicized are parts that I acquired but haven’t yet integrated:

-1992 Toyota** **Corolla, 4th owner at least, 265k miles that I put a six point cage in.

-Chevy S-10 rear axle** **Mercedes SL550 rear subframe with E350 rear calipers and rotors, Gen 1 Tacoma coilovers, 2018 Mini Cooper 16” steel wheels

-Ford Crown Vic front subframe SN95 Mustang front coilovers, spindles, hubs, and brakes custom spindles with Taurus brakes, hubs, and steel wheel Corolla aftermarket coilovers, Camry knuckles, hubs, brakes and lower control arms, VW Mk6 Golf front sway bar, Lincoln MkVIII steering rack with Camry steering column

-Chrysler Pacifica 4.0L V6 2000 Toyota Camry 5S-FE, harmonic dampener delete, with Celica headers/fuel regulator, NB Miata intake manifold and throttle body modified aftermarket 2JZ intake and 1MZ-FE throttle body, MR2 oil pan, Chevy 350 engine mounts F-250 cab body mounts for engine mounts, Summit oil filter relocation kit

-Chevy S-10 NV1500 Ford Mustang V6 T5 Chevy S-10 T5 with a bellhousing from cut up 4 speed Camry automatic transmission Nissan Sentra 13” steel wheel

-Chrysler LeBaron flywheel Camry flywheel and pressure plate, 1986 Ford Mustang I6 clutch disk and pressure plate Chevy S-10 clutch disk and all other clutch components, BMW E36 M3 pilot bearing

-Aftermarket Miata NA/NB dual core radiator, GM LS coolant hoses, and VW Golf coolant overflow reservoir

-F150 battery group size and battery mount, PCB power distribution circuit card, Microsquirt ECU.

-BMW E34 lights, grille, and horn. Camry brake master cylinder (still needs to be converted to discs), BMW E36 pedal group

-ATL Fuel cell with dual Walbro 155LPH external pumps, custom fuel plate to accept large rollover valve and Summit fuel sender unit

-Modified Celica aftermarket header with V band clamps, 2.5” mild steel tubing, and Cherry Bomb Salute muffler with 3”x1” rectangular tubing exhaust tip. Spartan V3 O2 Wideband sensor module with Bosch 4.9 LSU

These 2 bolts are actually hellish. Taking them out was a pain and now putting them in has been even worse. They are so difficult to see because the oil pan is shaped weird and there's just a tiny cut out hole to access them. I'm pretty sure the right one is also cross threaded a little, it only goes in a little and crooked.

There's 2 bolts right next to them anyway, anyone think I can just leave these bolts alone given how huge of a pain they are to put in and take out?

Even torqueing them is going to be a nightmare because the cut out is at an angle. Any ideas?

I tried to put the oil pan on yesterday and genuinely could not get the screws in, they'd also fall off the bit and into the little area by the fly wheel so I'd have to take the oil pan back off every time.

Noticed some paint bubbling on the left front fender of my ‘82 Alfa Romeo. Stripped the paint down and this is what was underneath. I would like to repair this myself and have welded some patch panels onto the car I’m years past. They were floor panels and rockers which, in my eyes, were more straightforward approach. Any help as to how to the best way to repair this would be appreciated

Hey guys, first time in this subreddit and been a mechanic for about a year and some change now and my current car, a 2006 Acura TSX, has been my “project car” for the past few years but it’s also my daily and kind of a piece of shit and I’m just trying to find a new car and project. I was wondering where everyone finds a good start? I’ve been looking around on marketplace and it’s insane how some people want 2k+ for a shell. My dad’s always telling me about how back in the day people would find cars in barns and storage units but I feel like that’s kinda unrealistic today. I’m also not too interested in trying to finance a car from some sketchy dealerships in my area. Where do yall find yalls cars? And is it worth dropping nearly 6-8k on something that drives off the start that I can also have some fun with for the next few years? Thanks for yalls time.

A while back I had to seat the ring gear and torque down the retainer bolts.

I had no way to hold the unit still, so I ratchet strapped it to a pallet and my trailer.

And it worked!

Most of what I’ve done in the last two years. I’m sure I’m forgetting some things.
Tanks INC 15 gallon tank
In tank Walboro fuel pump
Holley Sniper EFI
Custom intake manifold
6AN fuel lines
Serviceable fuel filter
Fuel pressure gauge
Electronic distributor
MSD coil
MSD wires
Nissan frontier alternator
Vintage Air sure fit
Catch can with 10AN line
KYB shocks
Eibach progressive springs
Camber plates front and rear
LED headlights
Resurrected classics turn signals
Custom LED sequential tail lights
240z tail light surround
Tucked and sectioned 240z front bumper
custom front grille
New stainless exhaust with flow master 40 series
10 inch touch screen head unit
Recaro SE reupholstered seats
5 speed swap
Rear disc brake swap
MSA air dam and rear spoiler
New Starter
New battery
Konig wheels and new tires
Fuel gauge and programmer
Third brake light
New tie rod ends
New steering boots
Custom rear chassis brace
New front ball joints
Mishimoto Radiator
New weatherstripping
Dayco harmonic balancer
R200 differential swap
MSA driveshaft
Wheel bearings
Futofab axles
New suspension bushings
New diff mount
RT style diff snubber
New transmission mount

Hey guys so I have a friend that is pretty much donating a Tiburon GTv6 and I was thinking about asking for it ONLY THING IS it’s a automatic plus the engine is basically done for same with the transmission do yall think it would be worth the trouble of trying to rebuild?

TL;DR - Great grandmother's car. First car I ever drove. Been sitting in the yard for 30 years. Now its mine. 307/TH350/power brakes/power steering/factory air/radio. 47k original miles.

Story time!

My great grandmother bought this 1970 Nova brand new. It has a 307, TH350, factory AC, power steering, power brakes, and a radio. It's 'Gobi Beige' with a 'Dark Gold' vinyl roof and a 'Medium Gold' cloth interior. Like the little old lady trope she literally drove it to the store and home (but unlike the joke she was a speed machine and just basically floored it everywhere she went). I remember riding in it with her when I was a kid (like 7 or 8) and giggling my ass off. That might have been what started this path for wanting speed. Granted a 307 is a boat anchor but to a 7 year old it might as well have been powered by rockets.

When she passed my grandfather got it and barely drove it. This was the first car I ever drove when I was 13 and then promptly did a powerbrake burnout I had read about (and then subsequently never got to drive it again). He had my uncle repaint it at some point about 30 years ago but otherwise it has just sat. The tag on it says '95 and I believe it.

It has been sitting in their yard on flat tires basically this entire time. The tires are so old they say 'Sears' on them (I think the 4th pic shows it on the flat tires).

Grandfather died a few years ago and my aunt became the executor of their estate. The car was specifically willed to her but she's come to the realization that she doesn't have any of the things needed to resurrect this car so she agreed to sell it to me after decades of me trying to get it.

I bought some Rally wheels last week and yesterday one of my friends and I went over and picked it up. The floors are surprisingly intact. The rear brakes are seized like they owed the IRS millions so that was entertaining. There is definitely mold. This car has an original 47k miles on it!

I'm not going to start on it until my '72 Caddy is back on the road but I'm making good progress there. I don't plan on restoring it but keeping the outside mostly stock looking. My aunt wanted me to put my spin on it (whatever that means) so it'll probably get a new motor at some point (anything but an LS), disc brakes, mostly new interior where needed, and a stereo. We'll see what the car tells me when I get started and I'll go from there.

So I have a 99 ford escort ZX2. Now this has rear drum brakes and I dont fuck with them and would prefer rear disc brakes (this car will eventually be tracked) now the ZX2 S/R comes factory with rear disc brakes unfortunately that car had only 2000 models ever made. So any parts made for it are likely obscenely expensive or hard to find. Now im sure theres a rear disc brake conversion kit i can find and use however without abs this car will perform better with drums than disc's unless I swap the proportion valve. So does anyone know a way to either work around this or a site that might sell proportion valves for a disc brake conversion?

I just want to know what is the usually cost of a custom engine swap . I really want to save and dropped a gt500 engine and trans into a Camaro body.

Got the equalizer mounts finished and started preparing the axels for reassembly. All that’s left after that is tires, gas tank and a new battery mount.

1951 International Pickup. I’m excited about this one.

Redoing a truck bed frame. Wondering if I should replicate the original C-channel or just go with box section?

The vehicle has zero value and the particular model is completely undesirable so no worries about not keeping it original!

So I found the old message from this guy I took my car to forever ago. He said “There's piston ring failure in the engine on leak down test” he recommended swapping a new engine in, but I thought maybe I could just replace the rings, but from what I’ve heard from friends and seen online it looks like a long process and my time might be better spent just putting a new one in. But I wanna hear some more opinions so feel free to spit what yall think.

Trying to get this kit going going so excuse all the posts but hope you guys enjoy the shots during the daytime not night🤣🤣 video is live as well! Appriciate your guys support hope you enjoy! https://youtu.be/gF8siY0XzSo?is=BlCdCb-BdxL1amzf

Picked this car up a couple years ago, guy was funding his other projects and I’ve always wanted a javelin since I was a kid. I’ve poured about 10k into it just to get it in a condition where I can drive it around the block. It honestly needs a lot of work but god damn if it doesn’t make me happy to get things done here and there on it

For a design study i am working on, the brief is a mid-engined 60's style prototype street/track day car - picture something like a Porsche 904 or Dino 246 with modern underpinnings.

Engine really needs to be a V6, between 300-400hp NA would be the ambitious goal. If money was really no object, what would you do?

I can see why LS swaps are so popular. Compact, cheap, light. Sky is the limit with power. If there was a V6 version of an LS that would actually be perfect (i think the LV3 is an option but cant find any modified examples).

There are old Nascar V6's based off SBC's but i believe they are iron block, so no real weight saving advantage.

Nissan VQ - cheap, reasonable power. Larger/heavier than an LS?

Alfa Busso V6 - amazing sound, won't make HP target unless purely a race motor.

Ford Duratec V6

Is there a Merc or Audi V6 that makes high HP/L?

Go full custom, billet V6 crankcase based on 2x Triumph 1200cc triples?

Ford 302 mounting bolt is stuck. I’m turning it counter clockwise, but the bolt won’t loosen. It isn’t rusty as it’s caked with oil from a leak that the old owner didn’t fix.

Is it under pressure due to me loosening the other bolts? I do NOT have the lift hooked on yet. I’m just trying to loosen them to I can attach the lift, and then remove them.

Should I lift the engine and then loosen the bolts?

Any ideas? Fire isn’t possible (obviously.) and I’m unable to clean off the oil at the moment.

Also, while I’m at it. What are the torque specs of them? Read somewhere it was 35-55 ft-lbs but that seems way too big of a range.

North jersey, 2007 Accord, 214k on it. The rust is just starting on the rear arches and I priced doing it properly. The quote was most of what the car is worth so I walked away from it, and I have since had enough people tell me that undercoating does not stop what has already started.

So the option I have not looked at is doing a rough version myself. I have never sprayed anything in my life. I do my own brakes and fluids and I stop at anything that needs the car in the air for a day, which is most of why I got a quote in the first place.

What I want from anyone who has actually done it is not how to do it properly, because I already know I cannot. It is whether a bad job that keeps the water out buys you real years or whether it just hides it while it gets worse underneath. The car has to move on Monday mornings. I would take four more winters over a nice looking arch and it is not close.

My uncle passed away before he could get it restored. It has been left to me and I am contemplating keeping it and fixing it up as I can. This would be my first project car and I know parts will be ridiculously expensive and difficult to get. What would you do in this situation? Obviously it is sentimental to me but I’m afraid It may rot away before I can devote serious time and money to it. The motor has 60k miles and will turn by hand but hasn’t driven since the mid 1980s, judging by the license plate that’s on it. There is minimal rust for being stored in a barn for 40 years however there is some. I just hauled it home to Alabama and am going to scrub her down a bit and see exactly what I am dealing with damage wise. If it were yours would you sell it as is or attempt to restore?

Looking to fix some dents on a truck I just bought. 05 f250 crew cab. Going to put a service body on it. I want to fix the dents and use an lvlp gun with some nason grey base and nason clear. It’s going to get scratched and I want to do the work myself just because I’ve always wanted to paint. I just don’t want it to fall off in sheets. I had a cat I was going to do myself so I went to an auto body supply house and they sold me Omni. Then a buddy with a body shop owed me a favor so he sprayed it for me. The paint fell off in a couple years. Im sure that was his fault not the paint, knowing him. Any suggestions would be appreciated.