Scope only says "within". Malicious compliance kicking in.

The reviews who say it’s flowing too much in braze setting, can’t they just dial back the 50psi on the regulator? Or is this just a gimmick tool and the float ball is the only accurate flow meter. Another guy in the comments said he uses his manifold for braze and purge, I thought that was pretty clever, not accurate but clever. I bought my own nitrogen tank today and want the best value for a braze flow valve, maybe that means spending more to avoid junk. Are guys using the puck style or the float is the only real option? Appreciate any input! Thx

Question for industrial Freon guys, I have some industrial plants that need new Freon refrigerant detectors. Gotta detect 404A, R22, 448A and 507 as we have all gases in this particular refrigeration room.

Existing model is a “Cimco Gas Detector.” has no part numbers, no online manual, we aren’t gonna call a competing company to buy their proprietary shit to fix it and were want to quote replacement. Have 3 of these at the moment that aren’t functional and can’t for the life of me find any reasonable replacement. I also can’t even find just generic continuous refrigerant sensors that we could tie into our own controller to give us a 4-20ma signal without spending $3k+ each (Looking at you Anal-gas)

anyone else, particularly in Ontario Canada that has a lead on something like this? All I can find is the ones that tie in and communicate with emerson E3 and whatnot. has to be able to sense multiple halocarbon refrigerants, have at least 2 programable digital outputs to signal exhaust Fans + audible alarms at certain ppm levels. Let me know!

Hey guys! Has anyone worked for the company smart care? Today while I was working they were at the same location and their field manager was there and gave me his contact information to apply there. Just curious to if anyone knows anything about them? They say they do refrigeration but most of the guys I've talked to their only do hotside it seems like.

Building had a power outage, when controller rebooted all programs were gone besides date and time… atleast it’s not Friday.

I’m looking into buying a 2008 Sub Zero BI-48SD/S/PH refrigerator. The seller says the freezer section has had a compressor replaced once and it currently doesn’t work, the refrigerator side does work. I have my Refrigeration Contractor license but I primarily do service on comercial/industrial hvac. I’ve worked on my fair share of walk in coolers and a handful of kitchen equipment over the years and enjoy those calls but I don’t do it all of the time.

My question is - Are parts for these readily available? and for someone with my experience, will diagnosis and repair be pretty straightforward or do these things suck to work on?

Also seller is asking $2700

Any input is greatly appreciated less

Hey boys, so my time in the field has come to an end and in the spirit of putting things to rest, I am posting some of the shit I’ve seen in the field, comments of funny stories and some situations are very welcome

First two pics are a “just to get them going fix”, everyone in this subreddit knows there’s nothing more permanent than a temporary fix

Third pic is something ugly and creative I HAD to do in the field on a hussman two door cooler

Fifth pic is the most perfect example of “yep that’ll do it”
So is the sixth pic

7th is pure desperation of “hey it’s raining in the store.”
8th is just before she shed her winter coat
9th is “hey we have an old condensing unit, can we use this compressor
10th I can’t really figure out what that’s for to this day
11th is “can we crane it off the roof?”
12&13 all is fair in the field
14 is me on my 28th birthday, running an event at the SAP center I ran an event the night before and was exhausted, I can’t remember if it was a concert or a sharks game

If you have any questions or additions, please don’t be shy

Manitowoc on the left, Hoshizaki on the right. I changed the filter about a month ago and our water goes through a softening system before it gets here. Even after changing the filter the water pressure is low. It's been like this for the past year and four months I've worked here.

I'm thinking the Hoshizaki is pulling water away from the Manitowoc and causing this. I tried shutting the water off to it and seeing if it made a difference but I didn't notice any.

I've got this on my plate to have solved early this week. I'd love some pointers to get me in the right direction. I'm perfectly capable of replumbing whatever needs to be replumbed. Just not sure how to do it.

Now that I'm thinking about it, maybe I should check the water pump amps?

I'm a mechanical engineer, and for the past few years, I've had to design custom refrigeration systems for a variety of prototype automotive, off-highway, and stationary technology demonstrations. These systems are typically air-exchange condensers and brazed-plate heat exchangers for evaporators. I've learned to size all the relevant components for the target cooling capacity (which seems to work), but my implementations always feel very amateur because I feel I don't know enough about this trade. I'm too dependent on whatever off-shelf expansion valves (and condensers, evaporators, etc.) I can find that meet the cooling capacity requirements, and which can plumb in easily. I don't have a good sense for practical design of such systems, and I rely on putting pressure/temperature gauges or transducers everywhere to monitor performance.

I refreshed myself on thermodynamics, refrigeration theory textbooks, and otherwise scoured the internet (and ChatGPT) for resources. But I have yet to come across something that merges the theory with practical design and implementation. I unfortunately don't have the benefit of working under someone else who is deeply familiar with the practical design of such systems.

I kinda knew i was gonna fail 60% way into the test. I knew a few things but it wasn't enough. I completely blanked out on the oil sump questions even though I already learned about it. I feel like I would have done better if the chillers at the maintenance job im in now would be in operation but they're not. They were long put out of service before I got hired there and they use outside temporary chillers that we're not supposed to check/maintaine. I need to leave that place so that's why im doing my best to get this license.

Anyone who's taken the tests can help me with the other stuff here? I know I got to study the oil sump and cooling towers again but im still a bit lost.

Hi everyone, I’m a refrigeration technician from Egypt with 8+ years of experience in commercial and industrial refrigeration, including cold rooms, freezer rooms, and screw compressor systems.
I’m looking for a job opportunity in Canada and willing to relocate.
If anyone knows of a company hiring refrigeration technicians, I’d really appreciate any advice or leads.
Thanks!

Hello guys I just had a question about if a circuit is reportedly running too cold, or if a case line up running too cold, what could be the issue other then too cold of a set point? Im a new tech don’t yell at me I’ll like it😏

Do you think the plating is starting to go?

My time in the field draws to a close, I was lucky enough to find an opportunity that gets me out of boots and into business casual but still working in refrigeration, and I’m taking an adjunct professor position at a local community college. I’ll be posting a “greatest hits” of sorts later on featuring some of my fuck ups and triumphs (sometimes on the same call) so stay tuned.

Please rate my stack /10, she’s perky, she stands up on her own, she’s completely full and she goes clear over my head please be gentle (that’s what she said)

For some reason I wasn’t able to post this in the hvac subreddit so I’m posting it here. Im having this issue with this captive air RTU where suction pulls into vac and head skyrockets. I verified my drier didn’t have a temp drop across it and then I found in the HMI the eev wasn’t even 15% open even with the compressor at 100%. I was able to manually open it through the hmi test mode and the unit ran fine. I verified the stepper motor was good, and that all the transducers and sensors are within range. I don’t understand why even with the unit in cooling it won’t open the eev, but in test mode it will, even with all inputs reading properly.

So I came back on another tech who replaced the compressor, filter drier and cap tube on this r290 unit. After pulling a vac and charging the unit it started up well, I charged a little more than the rated nameplate because some extra piping was added. Started the unit up and pressure stabilized around 40 psi suction 175 discharge. Discharge air temp dropped to 36 degrees. After like 20 minutes of running both the suction and discharge dropped, suction pulled into a vacuum discharge dropped to like 100 psi. Discharge air rises as this happens. Shut off unit when I noticed this, pressures equalized and I turned unit on and it started normally with the original pressures. After 5 mins the pressure suddenly dropped again with suction going into a vacuum and head pressure dropping. This issue keeps repeating. I’m thinking there may be debris in the high side of the system that clears and gets plugged up again when system is running. Not sure how to proceed

I got a job offer from them, just have some questions regarding them as a company. Please DM me if you know anything..

Hey my wholesaler and I are having a problem finding the BTU of this condensing unit. Their website is not giving me any results and I am pretty sure they no longer make condensing units.

Customer complained about ice machine occasionally tripping gfci. Apparently coworker replaced the back panel gasket months ago but it is leaking again now onto the compressor and presumably shorting.

Any advice? I dont see any way to tighten the gasket seal and it seems like it is just about sitting there with no pressure.

Manitowoc UDF0140A-161B

Title: Any experience with Alibaba monoblock units for a small walk-in freezer?
Hi everyone,
I’m setting up a small walk-in freezer, around 5–6 m³, with 120 mm insulated panels.
Target room temperature will be -18°C to -20°C, with summer ambient temperatures reaching up to 35–40°C.
I’m considering buying a complete wall-mounted / plug-and-play monoblock freezer unit from Alibaba, probably around 1.5–2 HP, 220–240V / 50Hz.
I’ve seen suppliers such as Fland, Xueyun and several similar Chinese manufacturers, usually in the $500–900 range.
Before ordering, I’d really like to hear from anyone who has actual experience with these units.
Has anyone here bought or installed an Alibaba monoblock refrigeration unit?
I’m mainly interested in:
reliability after 1–2+ years
compressor quality
controller/electronics reliability
defrost performance
refrigerant leaks
spare parts availability
any suppliers or brands you would recommend or avoid
I’m not looking for the absolute cheapest option. I’d rather pay a bit more for a Chinese unit with a known compressor and standard, easily replaceable components.
My application:
Room volume: ~5 m³
Target temperature: -20°C
Ambient: up to +40°C
Panels: 120 mm PU
Power: 220–240V / 50Hz
Expected size: around 1.5–2 HP
If anyone has a specific Alibaba supplier, model, compressor brand or setup that has worked well, I’d really appreciate the recommendation.
Thanks!

Have you ever repaired a leaking copper line on a Low Temp Rack evaporator coil in a freezer and somehow ended up setting off the fire alarm AND the sprinkler system while brazing joints to seal the leak?
I was thinking I’m just gonna fix this leak real quick.”
Next thing I knew sprinklers went off inside the freezer along with the fire alarm. Has this ever happened to any one of you refrigeration techs out there?