Drove my Touareg 6 hours round trip the other day. Filled up on the way back and drove 158 miles but range was still at 600. Deleted and tuned and comfortable for long drives. I'm never getting rid of this thing.

I have a 2011 TDI wagon and just spent about $1,000 getting the dpf/egr manually cleaned and within 2 days my check engine light is back on so ready to be done with it anyone know a decently priced and good egr/dpf delete kit?

Not finished yet. Will post an update when it's done.

Post Title: Update/Need Advice: 2011 SEAT Leon FR 2.0 TDI (170 CEGA) Belt-Side Noise ONLY When Driving (Not at Idle)

​Hey everyone,

​I’m trying to narrow down a metallic buzzing/chattering noise coming from the belt side of my 2011 SEAT Leon FR 2.0 TDI (170 CEGA).

​The weird thing is: it does NOT happen at idle. At idle, the engine sounds completely normal and steady. The noise only kicks in under load or when revving/driving.

​Since I don't have tools at home to start stripping it down, I’m taking it to a local garage this Thursday. From researching the VAG 2.0 TDI platform, here is what seems most likely:

​Alternator Freewheel Pulley (Overrunning Clutch): When these start seizing up, they often don't make a peep at flat idle, but as soon as RPMs change or you let off the throttle under load, the belt chatters heavily against the tensioner.

​Aux Belt Tensioner Assembly: The internal spring/dampener might be worn out, causing the tensioner body to slap under engine load.

​A/C Compressor Clutch Bearing: A dry bearing that only rattles when the clutch engages/disengages under load.

​Unclipped Intake/Trim: Unlikely to be the alternator itself, but plastic trim or air intake ducting vibrating against the bodywork at specific driving RPMs.

​Has anyone dealt with a belt-side chirp/buzz on a 2.0 TDI that only appears off-idle? Did swapping the alternator pulley fix it for you, or was it the tensioner?

​Appreciate any insight before I drop it off at the shop!

Need help identifying what triple square is needed I have a whole bunch that I bought to replace and none of them fit so just wondering if it’s a special bit that I need?

I have a 2014 JSW and was seeing if anyone has any experience with a malone stage 2 tune with the stock dpf. The labor day sale is going on so I wanted to see how well tuning the car with emissions goes. MPG change? I average around 32 mpg mostly city but even going on a 1000 mile road trip I only got 36 mpg at 80 mph. Don't have time or space to delete it currently and the dpf was replaced under warranty 30k miles ago so should have some life left. Tried searching and couldn't find much.

So I recently potholed my 2014 jsw with the EOC kit that came with a down and mid pipe what’re some options for a tailpipe section? I wanna get rid of the muffler and have a nice looking exhaust tip on it. Just wanna have a clean looking total aftermarket exhaust on this beauty.

Immobilizer kicks in just for fun (had this issue a month ago twice, and then it went away after disconnecting battery, draining residual power from motor, and waiting overnight)

Delete the immobilizer via bench tune at a shop?

Been waiting on a new key for 2 months now...

Edit: previous owner had VW reprogram the key from same issue right before selling it to me late spring

Here's a new one. MKIV Jetta; brake warning lamp briefly lights during a hard pull over 3k rpm. Vacuum pump was replaced 2 years ago. I'm thinking brake booster hose. Anyone else seen or heard of this?

My mk7 gtd has nearly constant high idle(1000rpm-CUNA engine). I have no error codes stored. I narrowed the issue to 2 things:1, My DPF is fucked , 2,: one temp sensor needs to be replaced. I beleive that the car is always regenerating. Mostly when I shut off the car the fan stays on for a few minutes. I also noticed that the coolant outlet temp is 2222C which is not a correct value. I found other people with the same issue but there were no answers on these forums. Any ideas what could be the issue? Should I investigate the temp sensor or should I consider DPF replacement(which is my last option as it's expensive). The car runs fine , but I think the constant high idle is not OK. I believe that the high idle is caused by constant regeneration. I'm attaching real time data from diagnsotic tool with engine turned off. Thanks for any ideas.

Is Zerex G48 coolant better to run than G12++ or G13, in my 2014 Volkswagen Jetta tdi ?

Are my injectors any good? Its a 3cyl CR engine, just a question.

Bonjour, j’ai une golf 4 tdi 130 avec une distribution à tendeur hydraulique et j’aimerais bien passer en tendeur mécanique, j’abuse entendu qu’il fallait tarauder le bloc pour mettre un goujon pour le galet enrouleur, est ce que quelqu’un a des infos la dessus ? Merci d’avance

Hey everyone I’m rebuilding /refreshing my 02j for my 04 tdi beetle… and I have run into an issue that I have not been able to figure out. I have not been able to find anyone else with this issue online either. It’s been sitting for a couple months since I got mad at it and walked away for a while lol so apologies if I’m messing up any terminology (this is the first transmission I’ve ever worked on)

I have taken the case apart to inspect, replaced the 1st & second gear synchros, reverse idler, o-rings and seals, and cleaned out old gear oil gunk.That is all that’s been done in terms of refreshing. I didn’t touch the output shaft or differential at all I just put them back as-is.

The issue is, when I have everything assembled and I attempt to place the gear selector tower back through the case and through the shift fork assembly, it appears to be very slightly out of alignment, like off-center if you look through the bottom where the retainer goes on. It will however shift through all gears no issue when the retainer is not on.
I cannot put the bottom retainer on unless I move the selector to put the transmission into reverse. When it is in reverse the bottom retainer goes right on. Once the retainer is installed, i cannot get it to shift out of reverse for the life of me. I’ve tried spinning it and filling the thing with gear oil and nothing. It shifted through all the gears fine before I disassembled it with nothing getting stuck. The selector tower is in fine shape, the little bearing inside looks ok. I can’t see anything obviously wrong with the shift forks. The retainer pins are installed correctly. The reverse gear fork thing that the shift fork pushes is lined up properly too. The shift fork is also aligned properly with the gear selector collars.
I have no idea what the issue is. Does anyone have any ideas?

What happens? Is this a problematic arrangement? I’m getting ready to switch my tune from APR to Malone stage 2 to be in a better position for when I eventually delete. But I noticed there is an option to code out the EGR. Can I do this and still keep the DPF until I serve it its last meal? I havent messaged Malone about it yet, but I was curious if anyone has run this way.