Anyone else experience this? How long before I am gonna be driving around a paintless truck

Once they get in and see that mess, I think they’ll pass… chasing a fuel loss at highway speeds and worry I’ll need those sooner rather than later!

Trying to get a ballpark of what my stock 2011 f350 with about 230k is worth the truck didn't run when I got it but after several weeks was able to get it going. The engine sounds great but it's derated for some reason and won't go over about 10mph part of the back glass is busted interior is pretty rough (don't currently have pictures) and I have the dash pulled out of it 4wd works as It should I'm sure I'm missing some important details so let me know if you have any questions I recently got a new job and don't get to mess with it as much as I'd like anymore any input is appreciated

Been looking for a while for a truck to fit my needs, primarily to tow jeeps and SxS and dirt bikes where they need to go. Found this low mileage 2002 for $11.5k (great deal from everything I've seen) that's in fantastic condition. Only a few minor fixes needed. One was the mirror adjustment switch which I designed an Atari 2600 controller replacement cap for and has been working great. Second is the headliner is coming down just for a few inches on the front driver side. Third is why I'm here, the tab is broken off the air box which I understand is fairly common for this.

I'd love to get the severe duty intake, but that seems discontinued. I'm not a huge fan of cold air intake or high flow filters, I'm keeping this more or less stock so longevity and clear air intake is way more important. And I've also read that I shouldn't just replace it with another used one cause it'll just break again.

So what are you guys doing here? I could probably drill a hole in the dirty side and fab something up to hook the latch back onto, or is there something good out there I should just pick up?

Truck is a 1997 7.3

Mainly I have to replace the power steering pump as its pulley and bearing are toast, and there is a pretty bad power steering leak. I am pretty sure it’s coming from the pump input shaft as the shaft and bottom of the pulley are wet. Looks like it’s leaking down onto the top of the gearbox and then my driveway. I never noticed issues with steering except some clicks from the column when turning but probably just the column?

If I’m taking the pump out should I just replace the gearbox while I’m at it or does having the pump out not make it any easier? Where do the gearboxes usually leak from if they do leak?

Also there’s a small oil leak coming down the passenger side of the front cross member, seems slow. Weird thing is I drive the truck 4 hours home after buying it going 70-75, and nothing was leaking for the next day or two. It was only after driving it around town for 10min and pulling into my drive way (was street parked before) that it started leaking. Valley is dry in the back, engine bay is filthy with old gunk so it could be fuel or something else leaking and picking up oil just wondering if anyone know what might be causing this slow leak/where I should look.

I just bought a 2002 f350 7.3 automatic. Any good recommendations on coolant? High miles 340k.. I live up in Montana so high elevation and cold winters. Any other good to do recommendations are good too. I’m new to the diesel world. I’m going to run t6 5w40 rotella oil, but that’s as far as I’ve gotten. Planning on doing the fuel filter, oil filter, coolant flush, trans oil, new batteries, and some other odds and ends

Appreciate it
-jake

One of the first things I want to fix on my new 1997 f350 is the belt. Squeals louder than the engine and looks like it’s getting eaten fairly rapidly. Is there a common cause for this? I couldn’t see anything obviously crooked in terms of idlers or pulleys, and there is zero play in any of them either. Belt seems fairly tight. I haven’t done any testing while running other than the guy who sold it to me sending a video of him spraying wd40 on the belt and the squealing went away. Not sure if this rules anything out but the plan is to take the belt off, see if everything rotates freely, then check alignment. The tensioner looks sort of suspect to me as there is this black mark on the arm which the belt runs past like it’s been rubbing up on it somehow, but the belt is also chewed up on both sides…

Hey guys im looking at buying a 2018 Ford F250 6.7 Powerstoke from a dealership here in West Michigan, I went to go look at the truck last Thursday and was able to crawl under it to check out the underside of the engine and transmission, im a Subaru Dealership mainlinetech and work on cars everyday but i dont work on many trucks and honestly have pretty close to no experience on these trucks so i would like a second opinion on what i think looks like an Upper oil pan leak. Do you guys think this is the common upper oil pan leak or something else?

My 1997 F250 HD 7.3 at the farm today.
I love this thing…

Hey I’m at a dead end trucks 03 6.0 truck had fuel pressure issue fixed that had contribution codes 1 5 and 6 replaced injectors and then still had code for 6. Swapped 6 for number 4 code followed swapped in an another reman from Warren still had code for six. Then broke down and bought a brand new one and still have a code for number 6 only when it’s hot and you drive it. Has even crank when you jump starter hot or cold. I even swapped in a good ficm to try it and still code came up and it misses. Starting to think maybe I have a lifter collapsing when it’s hot and you drive it.
I’ll post information about numbers below when it’s missing and truck is at opt temp.

Hot icp is 635
Desired is 637
Ipr % is 22
Ficm is 48
Have ficm sync

truck was idling rough, and would have a long crank so i changed my CPS. truck started just fine afterwards, but went back out the next morning and it no started again. tach doesn’t move at all when i try to start it and i have good fuel pressure

This is my 2002 4x4 7.3 I’ve had since almost new. Immediately after doing head studs, injectors, tuner, and turbo, I hit a deer that stuck my bumper into my passenger tire and steered me into a tree. New bumper, header panel, headlights, fender, and hood incoming after I get this replacement structure cleaned up and welded in. Let’s keep these on the road!!!!!!

I have a 2002 Excursion 7.3L with 250k miles. The exterior is not in great condition, needs paint, and new tires and the interior leather could use some love. The drivers seat is ripped and it probably needs 2 new batteries. But it runs. I realize there are a lot of factors involved that would dictate price. But just knowing these basics, would you sell it for $2,500? Or is that way too low? The blue book says for fair condition $7,000, but I don’t really know the qualifications for fair condition. Any insights would be helpful.

Drove 4 hours to pick this thing up, 1997 7.3 with 257,000 miles for $8500. When I got there I made sure the engine was cold, started right up, zero blowby/vapor.

Pros:
- Virtually rust free, just some surface rust on the frame
- Oil looked really good
- Transmission fluid was bright cherry red
- Coolant was clear but looked old, was also a dark red not sure what coolant you’re supposed to use in these
- Both tanks work
- Drove the whole way back 4 hours straight at 70-75
- Valley was dry

Cons:
- Horrible screeching on startup, seems to get louder/faster with engine rpm. He sprayed some wd40 on the belt and it stopped for a min or two, so probably a bad belt or pulley on something
- Power steering pump and or gearbox is leaking, assumed I would have to replace both when buying
- Accelerator definitely needs a new sensor or something, the first 1/4 of travel doesn’t seem to register at all, then I hear a solenoid like click and it starts going
- Column shifter is super sloppy and you have to kind of wiggle it into the right gear or it will fall into the next one kind of
- Underside of the engine/oil pan was absolutely caked in crap, not even sure what it was like a mix of every fluid that can leak.
- Have to push the pedal through the floor to get up past 70, but it’s a dually pretty sure with 4.10s so from what I’ve read that’s not unexpected
- Pretty shakey at 70 and up but I hit a few nasty bumps and pot holes going about that fast and zero death wobble
- He had a tire explode and it dented the bumper and blew a chunk out of the rear fender; don’t really care about this one

It was a farm truck for a bit but then he sold the farm so it just sat. He had a whole list of seals and what not that had been replaced (oil cooler, manifolds got resurfaced, think he said up pipes, new turbo, new water pump, can’t remember the name but those 1/2in drive plugs at the back of the engine with o rings on them that like to leak). He said it’s never been washed so I am hoping that it’s just 30 years of crud that’s built up. I made sure nothing was dripping really bad after the test drive, and the only thing that did drip after the drive back was the power steering stuff.

Did I get taken, or y’all think it’s a good deal? Also what should I look at more closely first? I plan on fixing the belt squeal asap as it’s hard to hear anything that might give me more info about how the engine runs with it going. Also, how do y’all wash these engine? Is it safe to spray degreaser in there and power wash (not actual power washers, the ones they have at car washes) it down? I want to get all the crud off around/under the engine so I can actually see if anything is actively leaking.

Where can I find some polished 3” nerf bars for my truck?

I need help desperately, I have had a grinding and popping sound coming from the front end of my truck.. it seems the get worse when i give it throttle and also when im slowing down, it sounds like it’s coming from the front driver side so I replaced the wheel hub and still does it. I don’t want to spend any more money on unnecessary things so I need help

Hello, I am picking up a 7.3 Excursion this weekend with 282k miles on it. I know that isn't a ton for these engines, and I'd really like to make it last. I will be doing all the fluids fresh. Any recs on if the first oil change I do should be done sooner than 5k? Last owner kept up on oil changes every 5-6k , but it does have an oil leak. I'll get that fixed up and run quality oil thru it. Any additives for the first cycle? Any other recs to help it start fresh? Its been treated well, all parts and tranny are original. This will be a project truck and something to make last, so I don't mind spending any extra on it. Thanks.

Hey Everyone,

I have a 2018 F350 with just over 100,000 miles and I am getting ready to do a front end rebuild.

I've done plenty of front end work in the past, but I have one question for you specific to these 17+ trucks. Track bars have been the bane of my existence with front end rebuilds due to bolts sticking in the bushing. Everything else is normally smooth sailing.

My Question: How often is the track bar bolt seized in the busing on these trucks? I live in Indiana, and the truck was previously titled in PA, so it's seen road salt. Thanks!

I’ve noticed that my fuel mileage can vary significantly from one tank to the next. I’m not talking about actual fuel mileage but rather the distance to empty indicator…. but it ends up being accurate for actual mileage if that makes sense. For example I usually get around 800 KM from a tank but everyone once in a while it jumps up to over 1100. Does anyone know why this is happening?