Looking for a front lip that doesn’t take drilling into the body. Lmk

Had this car for almost 3 years and have put 81,000km on her. Close to 300,000km now and really enjoying her! I’m waiting for my GT86 4.1 diff to arrive.

For a ‘22 IS350

Anyone have a long term review for tire wear?
I know these only significantly reduce the uneven tire wear issue but don’t completely get rid of it.
If it’s like 80-90% of normal tire wear, that’s fine for me.
If it only helps marginally, I’ll go for the RR Racing ones.

I rarely drive hard or aggressively and have brand new Continental DWS06+ on right now after going through two sets of the stock Bridgestones in 25k miles.

I just want to prolong the tire life because I seriously considered getting rid of this car after burning through tires twice when I don’t even drive the car aggressively.

Anyone have any fix or suggestions for the yellowing in the middle of the L looking design light thing lol. Sorry for my horrible explanation.

In my opinion this vehicle is a nice looking commuter and that’s it! It will never be a “sports car” in my eyes and I’m not even sure if Lexus wanted it to be that. Tho I do like my Fsports aggressive styling. Well I just ordered lowering springs and I feel like I’m going against what in my eyes a Lexus is. A luxury vehicle. Opinions?

My grandparents recently gave me their 2017 IS 300 AWD. When I took it to the gas station to fill it up, I saw on the gas cap that it takes premium. My grandparents are very cheap, and when I asked them about it, they said they couldn’t recall a single time they put anything more than the cheapest option into the vehicle.

I believe they bought the car new, so I would guess it’s been running on the cheapest fuel since they bought it.

What should I do going forward? Should I just start putting premium in it from now on, or is there anything else I should be concerned about after it’s been running on regular for so long? Could this have caused any long-term damage?

I finally got around to measuring the Mark Levinson system in my 2023 IS350 with a calibrated UMIK-1 Microphone. I measured both the driver and passenger positions, then did a few more sweeps with the bass and treble settings changed just to see what the Lexus controls are actually doing. Figured i'd post it here as others might be curious.

Overall, I'm pretty impressed with it.

I wouldn't call the response from the stereo "flat" because it definitely isn't. There's already a pretty healthy bass shelf built into the factory tuning, but through most of the mids and treble the overall balance is surprisingly good for a factory car system.

For most people I think a really good starting point is:

Bass +1
Mid 0
Treble 0

The +1 bass setting is actually pretty mild. It's only adding a small amount down low, roughly a couple dB depending on the frequency, rather than completely changing the character of the system.

I think +1 bass makes the most sense if you normally listen at lower or moderate volumes. Because of the Fletcher-Munson/equal-loudness effect, our ears become less sensitive to bass as listening volume drops, so that little bit of extra bass can actually make things sound more balanced.

If you tend to listen fairly loud, I could honestly see leaving Bass at 0. The factory tuning already has plenty of low end, and as the volume comes up you don't really need as much extra compensation.

Treble +1 is also pretty subtle. I personally don't think the system needs it, but it could make sense if you like a little more top end or if your hearing has started to roll off at higher frequencies. High-frequency sensitivity generally decreases with age, so some older listeners may actually prefer +1 treble. Obviously everyone's hearing is different.

I wouldn't touch the mid control.

There are some pretty noticeable dips in the measurements, but a lot of them change depending on whether you're measuring the driver or passenger seat. That's a good indication that you're mostly looking at cabin cancellations rather than something you should be trying to fix with the Lexus EQ.

One interesting thing I noticed is that the passenger side gets a little less bass overall than the driver. It's not lower at every individual frequency because the cabin modes move things around, but overall the driver position has roughly a couple dB more low-frequency energy.

There's also some pretty impressive extension down low. There's still a lot of output happening around 20 Hz, which I wasn't really expecting from a completely stock system.

For comparison, I've actually used Spotify's EQ in some of my other vehicles because they had some pretty horrible dips or tonal issues that were obvious enough to bother me. With the ML system, I really don't feel the need to do that. There are still cabin-related peaks and nulls, obviously, but nothing about the overall tuning makes me want to start trying to correct it with a full EQ.

I also checked distortion and it was pretty decent overall. Through most of the range THD was under roughly 1–2% at the level I tested. There was one uglier area around 300 Hz, but I've heard some plastic trim buzz in that region before, so I suspect at least some of that is the car vibrating rather than the speakers themselves.

That's probably the biggest compliment I can give it. It doesn't measure perfectly, because no car is going to, but the underlying tuning seems really well thought out.

For me I'd basically say:

Lower/moderate volume: Bass +1 / Mid 0 / Treble 0
Higher volume: Bass 0 / Mid 0 / Treble 0
Optional: Treble +1 if you want or need a little more top end (or are older)

Beyond that, I honestly don't think it needs much messing with.

The blue Harman curve in the graphs is just there as a visual reference. I'm not suggesting the Lexus should perfectly follow it.

Unfortunately I don't have access to a non-ML car to see the differences.

Can i replace this part or do i need to replace the whole sub frame? 2008 Lexus IS250 one side is rusted broken and the other side seems like its about to go too.

My ac keeps going in and out, it has freon and does blow coldish air. When I either first start it or after a hoon, it cuts out and blows hot. I can hear it turning on and off repeatedly with makes the rpms fluctuate below 1k. Could it be a fuse or the fan going out? Turning it off and on fixes it sometimes, but it takes a while.

Another problem I am having is on cold start it doesn't want to go in reverse. It was shaking at 40mph at 1400k and 60 mph at 1900k. Is it the transmission going out or maybe the torque converter? I did a fluid and filter change recently and it stopped, but it is starting to happen again after 6 months.

Any help or advice would be appreciated

It is a 2010 is250 base model

I am stumped on both of these problems

Most places near me seem to not want to do the job.

I just bought a 2011 Lexus is250 the other day.

So far love it! But looking into a an upgraded radio/navigation system.

Would love a replacement or a way to update it to have at least have Android auto would be nice.

So far i haven't found anything online at least for my type. (I have the original navigation system)

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Just got the OEM Lexus F Sport Performance Exhaust installed. Figured I’d share the cost breakdown for anyone considering it:

Used exhaust from OfferUp: $600
2 OEM gaskets from local Lexus dealer: $120
Installation: $125
Total: $845

Really happy with it so far. It’s definitely noticeable, but not rowdy. Won’t disturb the neighbors and you’re not going to hear me coming from a block away.
No ricer sound at all. Cruising around it stays pretty tame, but it comes alive when you actually get on it.

For $845 all-in, I’m happy with it.

I don't understand why IS is always neglected when it comes to redesigns. NX redesign gets next gen tech and design while IS gets the aged interior for the next 4 years. Guess we just have to wait lol

Hey I currently have the REMARK Axle back without mufflers and am curious to see others setups, can you guys show me yours with clips?

I saw the temp gauge go up while i was deiving which is unusual. So i pulled over to a gas station and let the engine cool down. I opened the reservoir cap ans noticed its almost empty. Good thing the gas station has coolant so i bought it and top up the reservoir. When i started the car the temp still goes up. So i let it cool down. While waiting i searched for answer why it overheats. I saw a post about one of the reasons for overheating is a broken rad cap. It was almost 10pm and good thing autozone still open so i bought one. I opened the rad cap and saw it was broken. I also noticed its bone dry inside. I try to top up but i ran out of coolant and i was away from az and its closed by 10pm anyway. I will try to top it up again today while the engine is cold. I hope it will get fix.

So kinda confused hoping for some help. 09 is250 AWD 130k miles. I drove around 88miles one way today, no ac/heat on, windows down cruising at 60-70mph (managed to get 30mpg 👌). Only hard driving was through some tunnels but ya can’t blame me there 😂😅. I’ve noticed this before but when I reach down by my ash tray and around the base of my shifter it’s radiating heat basically all around where the transmission is. Idk it confuses me and I had the fluid swapped at like 120k ish miles. Also I drive in sport with pwr on.

The right side muffler was hanging low so I had it removed, it was held up with a “strong” what looked like plastic clamp that ripped. Need info on getting it repaired or repairing it myself. Lexus IS250 2010. I still have the muffler to reattach

Has anyone driven both before? Can you actually tell that there’s a difference in handling, or do they almost feel like the same car? I also don’t mean the 2014+ f sport ones, only the pre-2014 ones. How would that F sport compare to the 2014-2015 F sports as well, in terms of handling, cornering, composure at different speeds, etc.

Why would you ruin a good stew?

I have a 2024 IS350 fsport. It’s my first Lexus so I’m not too familiar with the norms when it comes to this vehicle but recently I’ve been experiencing sluggish acceleration. When I press the pedal, it feels like the car is building to go and then it accelerates. It’s almost like it gets stuck at a speed for a sec or two and then goes. I took it to the dealer awhile back ago but they said everything is fine. Since then, it feels like the delay has increased a bit. It’s weird. Is this common with these cars? I read that it could be due to the throttle sensitivity settings. Someone else mentioned that the car was designed to be driven in higher gears or something to that degree. I’m not sure tbh, I’m not a big car guy but I do recall accidentally hitting the up paddle while driving in automatic awhile ago. I’ve been considering taking it in to my usual mechanic for a second opinion but I wanted to see if this a common thing before spending the money.

1. 2021-2024
   
2. 2025-2026
   
3. 2027+
   My order is 3, 1, 2

Hi I’ve seen a lot of people talk about curb rash on the black chrome. Found these guys and they are mobile around the Bay Area. I was charged $145. Their instagram is @torres_wheels

Changed battery out and now i have zero audio and radio fuse keeps blowing. Volume knob doesn't do anything and audio customization is doing this and cant adjust anything

Any help would be greatly appreciated

I’m buying a 2018 Lexus IS 300h and plan on keeping it for the next 3–4 years. I’m looking for recommendations on the best OBD2 scanner/adapter setup to maintain and customize it.

My Hardware / Devices Available:

• Android phone
• iPhone
• Windows10 laptop

What I need to do:

Hybrid Battery Health & Live Monitoring: Periodically check battery life expectancy, monitor cell block voltages, and watch inverter/battery temperatures.

Dealer-Level Customizations / Settings: Tweak comfort settings (disable reverse beep, key fob window roll-down, lighting/lock settings, etc.).

Deep Diagnostics: Scan and clear manufacturer-specific codes across all modules (Hybrid ECU, ABS, SRS/airbags), not just generic standard engine fault codes.

My Preference:

I really want to avoid ongoing monthly/annual subscriptions (like Carista’s recurring plans). I’d much rather pay a one-time fee for the hardware/software upfront or use one-off/free tools.

From my initial research, a few options keep popping up:

• Vgate vLinker MC+ bluetooth paired with apps like Dr. Prius, Hybrid Assistant on Android, or Car Scanner Pro / OBD Fusion.
• OBDLink MX+ comes with the OBDLink app and free enhanced Toyota/Lexus OEM diagnostics.
• Mini-VCI Cable + Toyota Techstream on a Windows laptop for full dealer-level control.

For those with an IS 300h or other Lexus hybrids: What setup are you currently using, and what would you recommend for a 3–4 year ownership window?

Thanks in advance!