But the insert held up!

My guy was countersinking some 304 and the M. A. Ford countersink just sheared right off. I have not seen this before. Bad tool?

I’ve had this setup working at my last rental, (with the exception of the occasional blown fuse from high inrush amps upon startup) have acquired slow blow fuses for my shutoff switch since. I upgraded to the next size DPS from this same company and had my electrician set it up the same way.

Hi,

I have a Mikron WF-1 manual milling machine (similar to a deckel fp1) and the quill is not moving very smoothly.

It will stick in place even with the return spring wound tightly.

I removed the spindle from the vertical head and i can find no obvious problems. All keyways are smooth, the top portion of the spindle where the power gets tansmitted is also smooth (when i put the spinde in backwards, so only that top portion is inserted).

When i remove all the keys and put in the spindle normally, even with ample oil, it just becomes very tight and i have to tap it in with a mallet (lightly, but i can't push it in by hand)

There is one caveat, and that is that when the spindle is fully in, the first ~6mm moves freely. Then it becomes harder.

I cannot feel any burrs or anything like that so i would be curious to know of any other possibilities.

Thanks!

Does anybody use the Iscar Multiclamp C series tool assembly fixture for capto? I’m trying to find out the axis of rotation that’s the fixture offers. It appears that the fixture itself is able to tilt but I want to know if you can freely spin a tool 360° for indexing inserts. Any info is greatly appreciated

This is primarily directed to those few people who operate machines that have over 5 axes.

I can understand a 6 axis machine as one that lets you use the translational X Y Z axes & all the A B C rotational axes, but after that, what's next?

Is this a way of talking about multi-spindle machines? Is it like a robotic arm with a cutting tool on it?

I think the most axes I've heard of being used was like 19 or something outrageous.

I need to hold .002 TP to a pre existing thru bore. Currently we keep getting flyers around .006-.008 but we also get good parts about half the time what variables am I missing? what about this set up can be improved or checked? We centered the stead rest to the best of our ability. It cuts straight and to size with no taper on the entire profile of the part.

It's just adding electrical ports to a prefab box, our shop has done hundreds of these things

On the 3 axis, it took multiple setups, each side its own program, now it's just one 5 minute program.

For a bit of context, I have 13yrs in manufacturing as an industrial mechanic/semi-millwright but with no journeyman's to show for it. Employer kept fighting back on it against our union despite them recognizing us as journeyman. I assume for fear of giving their workers a chance to hire out with that on our resume.

This last year I took a sabbatical from work to move home and take care of my mom pre/post-op for a major surgery and decided to take a 10 week pre-apprenticeship program for precision machining before getting back to work. During the program I was able to get 4 NIMS certs (Measurement Materials and Safety, Milling, Drilling, Turning Between Centers)

I'm, 36 so it feels a bit late to be starting over but my last job was so specialized in what we made and I'd gotten sick of it so I'm trying my hand at something with a bit more flexibility in the industry. Both offers are for an apprenticeship position with starting pay being the same at 24$ an hour thanks to my work experience and overall success in the program that got me here.

My question is what differences I can expect to see as far as earning potential and job growth/availability between Tool & Die maker VS CNC Machinist and how the job itself might be different in the day to day. I'm gonna google some stuff of course but was hoping for some firsthand knowledge from y'all.

I received a lot of help from the experienced people here when asking questions about the parts and problems I had in the 10 week program and I appreciate all the advice so far, any more you could give before I make the final decision would be great.

2 inch, 3500 rpm, 40 fpm.

I was desperate for a little bit more reach with this endmill and broke it because of some dumb reason. What remains is about 11mm of the original shaft. Would you still use this endmill? I could clean up the broken end and use the remaining part for clamping or I could cut it off and clamp on the neck. It's intended for light cuts in aluminium.

Last week, an apprentice broke a micrometer and the boss fined him. That sparked an idea, so I machined some micrometer‑themed trinkets. I plan to give one to the boss and one to the apprentice as a gesture of comfort. I’m afraid this might come off as sarcasm, even though there’s a little bit of that intent behind it.

I have the pleasure of researching CNC vendors that ship to Italy.I need 60 aluminium sensor mounts with a deep slot and 4 tapped holes for an automation project.Quickparts, Weerg and Xometry are the milling companies. Which one would you trust most if you need repeat orders?

Hi guys,

I’m new to the manufacturing field and currently undergoing training. I’m machining an aluminum part on a CNC milling machine, but I’m getting a very loud and annoying squealing/chattering noise during cutting.

I’d like to understand what could be causing this and how I can fix it to achieve a smooth, normal cutting sound.

Here are my current cutting parameters:

- Material: Aluminum

- Cutting tool: Carbide end mill, hardness approximately 55 HRC

- Spindle speed: 10,000 RPM

- Depth of cut (Z step-down): 0.7 mm per pass

- CNC milling machine

Could the problem be related to the spindle speed, feed rate, depth of cut, tool geometry, tool holder, workpiece clamping, or incorrect cutting parameters?

What parameters would you recommend changing first?

I’m a beginner, so I’d really appreciate a simple explanation and advice from experienced CNC machinists. Thank you!

Hey everyone,
I just finished my first year of community college for machine tool and will start my second soon. I have little experience in a small job shop as a machinist. I got accepted for a machinist job that ends up paying 60k a year with good match and benefits. I will end up completing my 2 year degree but if I can still accept this job when I finish my degree I think it would be a good choice. Is this a good price for a starting machinist as I see a lot of people on here say we don’t get paid nearly enough which I agree with but was just wondering. I am also 19 and will be 20 when I finish my degree. Thanks!

After 20 years of service I decided to get another mini-vise for my drill press. As you see the old one did good, but I've damaged the leadscrew in it, and it was hard to turn at the end of travel. So, ordered the exact same model number.

Wow. If you don't know what to look at: the guide rails are missing, the vise face has no side-to-side control against cocking, the turning knob got smaller, and the worst thing: they removed the 4 bosses used to screw the whole thing down to a table.

Credit to the seller, they refunded me immediately and even told me to keep the POS.