First bow I’ve ever owned. Picked it up from a pawn shop. Plan on taking it to a local shop and having it looked over!

Had to share.
Guy next to me at the local range shot a liiiittle low. Never have I seen a carbon arrow punch and stick in steel tubing. 🤣

Korean Traditional

Target : 145m away, 2m x 2.66m

bow : Jeil KTB 62lbs medium size, 78lbs at 32inches

arrow : 32inches, 250spine, 495 grains

flicking away bow forearm at release when tired. Need fixed.

Korean Traditional Archery.

How to use 궁대(Gung dae - bow sash)

Hey everyone I’m looking for any good recommendations for a crossbow target. Currently the “self healing” foam one we have is not good enough. Every shot we pull the arrow out and foam is basically heat burned onto the arrow and we have to scrape it off along with almost impossible to pull out. Looking for anyone who’s dealt with this before and has any good recommendations. Thank you!

Edit: they refunded the purchase with profuse apologies.

Hi folks! I believe I am asking the obvious here.

I recently bought my first bow from a second hand store (I know that is always risky), it's a traditional longbow and when purchasing it had what appeared to be some minor cosmetic damage but was otherwise ok, just well loved.

After a few sessions, I removed the old shelf pads to put on new ones and when cleaning and inspection under better light, it appears that the damage is much more extensive than it first appeared and I do not believe it is safe to fire.

I'm wondering if people could confirm that it is unsafe for me before I make the journey to return it.

Unfortunately I do not live near an archery club or any experts within range of a visit.

So last year I was given an old Fred Bear extreme bow from the 2000s to try the deer hunt with and while it does work, I would probably like to get something newer because from my understanding it doesn’t shoot as hard as a lot of the newer bows. What would be a good economical bow for hunting Whitetail deer for an adult?

I’ve spent decades archery hunting the BLM land northeast of Glenwood Springs, Colorado, that Congress is now proposing to transfer into private ownership through the GAME Act.

This isn’t unused ground on a map. I’ve walked it, glassed it, hunted it and cherish it.

All hunting depends on access. These BLM parcels also connect hunters to larger areas of adjoining public land and forest service. Closing them off would affect much more than the 2,000-plus acres being transferred.

GMU 444 already contains a tremendous amount of private land. Every accessible public parcel matters. Once this ground becomes private, the public will almost certainly never get it back.

Supporters are selling the exchange by promising access to land northwest of Rifle. But that is in a completely different area and game-management unit. It does not replace the hunting opportunity, access or history being taken from hunters near Glenwood Springs.

Public-land bowhunting is already difficult enough without Congress carving away productive, accessible ground for the benefit of a private ranch.

If you believe public hunting land should remain public, please take 30 seconds to sign the petition:

Oppose the GAME Act and protect this public land

I’m also happy to share parcel maps, coordinates and more background in the comments. This land is real, it is used and it is worth defending.

My teacher recommends using a clicker and releasing instantly on the click. Last few shooting sessions I’ve been holding the arrow and lining up the shot, with much more accuracy (third arrow passed through the hole left of center).

I would like to use this skill to hunt. Any tips, recommendations, or advice?

I really do wonder what would arrive if you bought one, but not enough to find out.

I usually shoot Barebow recurve, but I also have a 30lbs Si Cai from AF Archery. I’m wondering where to start with arrows spine for it. I have some 500 spine Gold Tip Trad XT arrows, and those seem to fishtail (which could be my technique - I’m not any good at it yet).

Basically, I’m not made of money, and getting close to the right spine to start would be helpful. Anyone have thoughts n where to start?

Oh, I also have some 60p and 700 spine VAPs, but those are pretty light. I don’t know if they will do well with the Si Cai.

I'm looking at the Bearpaw Self Nocking Jig and the Raptor Nifty Nocker. Both look like they're clones of each other and I'm not sure which came first and which is better. The one from Bearpaw is made in Germany and the Raptor Nifty Nocker is made in the US and quite a bit less expensive. Both are made of aluminum.

I'm also looking at the nock cutting jigs from Arrow Fix.

The first bow is the Huno, made by Velox, an old and reputable brand where I live. The entire brand is aimed at beginners who want to get into the hobby.

This bow is quite inexpensive and has an Asian style, but it does not pretend to be a historically accurate piece. It takes inspiration from the shape of traditional Asian bows, but its appearance is modern, with a rubberized finish. It does not boast about power or performance (although all the reviews praise its accuracy). Instead, its main selling points are that it is extremely lightweight and easy to transport, ideal for carrying in a backpack or even in a quiver.

It is also takedown, meaning it can be disassembled and assembled anywhere. It is specifically recommended for beginners who want to practice Asian styles of archery, especially mounted archery. That is essentially the purpose and concept behind this bow.

The other option is a handmade Mongolian-style fiberglass bow, which makes a greater effort to look historically accurate and costs more because of that, around twice the price of the Huno if bought directly from the manufacturer, or even more if purchased from an online store that markets itself as specializing in “medieval archery.”

Honestly, I think this bow is more beautiful, and it has some wooden details, but with the money required to buy it, I could get the Huno plus several arrows.

What do you think?

So basic history. When I was a kid in the 90s I was given a compound bow and arrows and a quiver. They were from my mom's first husband who died in the late 70s. He did hunt with it.

I want to find either a compound or recurve that is good for adult beginners. I will only be shooting at targets I have no interest in hunting.

I don't plan on competing. I just want to go on a Saturday and Sunday and spend a couple of hours shooting and improving my skills for just myself. So I really don't have any interest in paying $400 to $600 for this. I would like to stick around $250 or less.

I went to an archery shop and they only had the expensive ones that make sense for people competing or hunting.

They also mentioned all this other stuff like a scope, a trigger release. I never used any of this as a kid and I feel like they subtract from my goal of improving/challenging my skills and also I'm not shooting from hundreds of yards in the woods to hit dinner.

So I'm not interested in any of that I don't mind if it has the attachment points.

So any information or recommendations would be helpful.

Thank you.

Thanks for any advice, new sport for me. I'm just starting and hope to improve my draw weight quickly at first, or at least IF that happens trying to buy as little equipment as possible during that transition. Obviously the biggest potential expense is the riser but that can also potentially last you a lifetime if I understand that correctly. I'm strongly considering a forged ILF 25" riser and would have no problems buying a used one if it would save money over new. My limited search so far tells me that is unlikely to be a worthwhile pursuit, is that everyone else's experience? I believe I've found a nice riser that could serve me for as high as my draw weight could go for $200 new, seems like at best I'm finding more expensive risers that still sell for more than that used, if I find anything at all. If you need to know more just ask but figured I would post here before I make what I hope is a very final decision. Mostly at this point interested in target shooting, most likely just indoor at least for quite awhile.

Shooting an old Ben Pearson recurve. 35 lbs draw weight at 28 inches.

2nd pic is around 20 yards

3rd pic is around 28 yards

4th pic Antelope is around 22 yards from down below the target.

Any input or comments welcome! I tend to snap shoot

Hello, if anyone has access to this book digitally and is willing to share, please reach out to me. I would be most grateful.

Also, please recommend more books that are aligned in spirit to this one and are about traditional archery.

I bought a basic release to get started but looking for an upgrade. Looking for affordability and durable.Thank you for the suggestions.

don’t know much ive shot bows like this before but wanted help identifying them and if they are safe to use they were kept in a case in the garage

Our club shoots in a school hall during winter.

We used to hang the nets from the basketball hoops but the school is now objecting to this. There’s no way to fix anything to the walls either.

Are there any freestanding supports that we can put up and take down and store in a reasonably small place that will hold the weight of archery nets? We have poles to support the middle but we’re struggling to find something at the ends that won’t topple with the weight.

For a takedown recurve, what are you storing your bowstring in when not in use? I've been using the bag it came in, but at some point the bag will come apart, as is the fate of all ziploc style bags.

I get the general gist of siyahs but I'd still like to know: Assuming they are the same size, how does the angle towards the string affect the draw curve? Or does it matter to begin with?

I am trying to figure out, if i can tell from the shape of a bow, how it affects the draw behavior.