Last weekend. Really enjoyed it a lot

I know I googled and researched this. From what Ive seen, my 65 firewall had ports for steering, brake, clutch. It has a bulkhead connector for feed harness, and below it has ports for speedo cable and parking brake cable.

I'm trying to run several more wires through the firewall for new gauges, and I'm looking for the cleanest way to go about it.

If this was a less original / more custom application, I'd just cut/drill a hole next to existing bulkhead connector and put a Deutsch or milspec bulkhead connector there and just run my engine bay wires there.

When looking at firewall now, I see places where maybe there is a knockout for some unused port or accessory or something.

I hate idea of having to drill a new hole. If I must, I will, but if I'm passing several wires through, what would be the best way of sealing that? A tapered rubber grommet with enough ID to pass wires through and silicon to fill gaps between wires?

Thanks for any pointers

Howdy. It’s hot as balls where I live, and I’m convinced the engine driven fan isn’t doing enough & is a fairly considerable power hog.
Does anyone know of a kit to convert from the factory engine fan to electric? I’m only finding things for the 289 and above.

Thanks

I made a post a while back about my 1966 mustang fastback 289 A-code with the C4 automatic 3-speed trans making a weird sound and losing power after stops. I have to get off the accelerator and ease lightly back on it to get it moving.

I've been driving it and generally its been fine, but today it would not stop making the sound and it especially hated the upward stops in my town.

Attached is a recording of the sound, any help is greatly appreciated!

289 in a 64.5 and I do not know any specifics about the engine internally. It is a 65 block. 600cfm holley carb. I have raced with race built Chevy engines and this engine does not feel like anything special so I imagine mostly or all stock.

Been running 87 with lead substitute since I bought it. Timed based on that fuel.

Any noticeable gain to running higher octane?

Finally pulled the trigger. I have been entertaining the idea of getting one for years but my excuse was always “I don’t have the time to work on it.”
I probably still don’t have the time, but I already enjoy looking at it parked in the garage.

Now I just need to sell my 2000 SLK230 that’s now parked on the street 🥲

Any mods/upgrades/fixes that I should heavily consider?

While out shopping with my wife for her next minivan (please, contain your jealousy), spotted this beast on the lot. It just came in, they haven’t even gone over it, yet. No official price, but he hinted it would probably be around $79k.

The fuel pump was good but timing had moved slightly. I’ve begun my love hate of the 289, turns out yesterday was a learning day. After finding the nuts on the carb loose as heck and I snugged them down it sounded almost perfect but the timing was way off. Removed the distributor and tried to set it but after several hours my son spotted the rod for the oil pump. It was leaning so the distributor wouldn’t go into place. Used grease to hold it in place but it still wouldn’t slip in. Finally he got a socket to orient the oil shaft and things were short work after that. Thanks for everyone’s input about the fuel pump. When this one goes out we will buy one mentioned in the previous post. Have a great weekend!

Seen at a local car show Danville Kentucky

Hey all, I’m trying to do research on some bottom ends I came across I believe they are hi po but if someone’s could help me figure it out that would be awesome. I found a punch mark but no 1M casting so I’m lost. It has the earlier 5 bold pattern

Hello! The 3 hex screws which hold the accelerator bellcrank to the firewall are stripped out. Considering going with larger screws vs. filling the hole and using stock size screws. Would be interested to hear from anyone who has dealt with this issue.

What y'all think about best tires for this type of car are I've never really owned one, right now this is what size are on there look at the picture.

Last night my son was left again having to call the wrecker for a haul home due to yet another short life fuel pump. Is there a solid reputable brand? The last 2 have come from AutoZone and haven’t lasted but a few months each. Any recommendations would be appreciated!

Hi everyone,
I’ve just bought my first classic car, a 1966 Mustang that I picked up for $1,000 and I’ve started documenting the process of getting it back on the road.
It’s a really interesting car to me because there’s quite a bit going on that I’ve never dealt with before, including the 289 V8, dual carbs, older braking system and all the other quirks that come with a nearly 60-year-old car.
I’m very much learning as I go, and I know there are people in this group who know far more about these cars than I do. I’d really appreciate it if you could have a look at the video and let me know what you think I’m looking at, whether anything seems unusual/wrong, or if you have any advice for what I should be checking or doing next.
I’m hoping to document the whole build, so any advice from people who have worked on these cars before would be massively appreciated.
Thanks!

Hi all, my first post here. I'm at the end of a 4 year 68 gt500 Eleanor build and need a trunk kit. mustangs to fear is out of stick while they chnage suppliers. any chance someone here knows of one for sale or sitting in someone's garage? Here's some pics.

The sound is even better.

I am by no means a photographer, and I have no idea what I'm doing but I kinda liked how these turned out

Has anyone else had issues with the Holley Sniper EFI swap?

I had it installed recently in my 67 and it has been nothing but problems. I can drive about ten miles and then it just keeps stalling. At first they thought it was the O2 sensor, then the entire throttle body, then a full ECU replacement, fuel injectors and o-rings.

I am trying to figure out if this is an across the board problem or if I just have a bad one.

(UPDATE)
Thank you so much for everyone’s input.
I showed the customer all the issues and he agreed with me on sending the brakes to the dumpster. We settled on the Leeds kit as suggested by a commenter. He had no idea the depth of the butchery committed on his car.

I need some help here from the ford wizards.
Someone did a disk brake swap on this mustang who knows how long ago. It’s got 10” .500 thick unvented rotors. The rotor is wedged onto a hub via the splines on the studs. The brackets are machined and not torch cut, so I’m assuming a kit. Now here’s the real abomination. It’s got rear brake calipers from what appears to be a ford transit or Taurus. Complete with parking brake assemblies. I with this was the most egregious hack job on this car. But for now I need help sorting this thing.
Does anyone know what “kit” this is, and what calipers I would be able to use to replace this mess?
It seems the e tire club this guy belongs to had all their cars “restored” by the same shop in Mexico. His brother’s f-150 had some seriously compromised rear suspension. This one has the same hack work to it. Once this one’s sorted I’m sure I’ll have the entire clubs worth of fuckery to sort out.