My brother (stupidly) had his PS5 on a floating shelf which gave way a couple of days ago. We found his PS5 dangling down by just the HDMI cord. Luckily, it mostly still worked but the HDMI port was damaged and the image was very poor and glitchy.

I’ve been into electronics (mostly Arduino) for a couple of years now and even though I bought myself a hot air rework station a long time ago, it was my first time using it this weekend. We got a replacement HDMI kit from amazon and I did the replacement this evening.

It took me quite a while to figure out the process but I’m glad to say he’s now gaming with a good image once again!

### 1. Original Behavior and Diagnosis

* **Symptom:** The device charged and operated normally when connected to the charger, even allowing it to be unplugged and continue working. However, the failure occurred when turning it off; it wouldn't turn back on independently unless the charger was reconnected.

* **Diagnosis Process:** Exhaustive tests were performed, ruling out various components like the power button, battery, and motherboard capacitors, ultimately finding a damaged P-type MOSFET in the power section.

### 2. Tools and Materials Needed

* Precision multimeter

* Soldering station

* Flux and isopropyl alcohol

* Precision screwdrivers

### 3. Module Disassembly

* Carefully remove the screws to open the module.

* Separate the pressure tabs.

* Carefully lift the back cover where the battery is attached, being mindful of the wiring connected to the main board.

### 4. Repair Procedure

* Locate the power circuit section where the P-type MOSFET identified in the diagnosis operates.

* Apply flux and use the soldering station to extract the defective component.

* Once the P-type MOSFET causing the power-on failure is removed, clean the area with isopropyl alcohol and proceed as needed to restore the power line.

### 5. Subsequent Tests and Reassembly

* Test the receiver's autonomous power-on without connecting an external charger.

* Correctly align the circuit board inside the casing, securing the buttons and pins.

* Close the cover, tighten the screws, and perform the final operational test.

I know my soldering needs some work, but it works as expected. My gf has this cheap lint remover that was wired directly with a usb A cable. I wanted to make it wireless and also add the option to work while plugged in to charge. I used a TP4056 for charging and an XL3608 to boost to 5v. I added a AO3401 MOSFET to switch between usb and battery power seamlessly. Here is my post asking r/AskElectronics if it will work, it includes a Falstad schematic and a diagram (with visuals) that makes more sense for me. I ended up removing the 1000uf capacitor as it was bogging down the boost converter on startup. Other than that my (With some help from Gemini) design works perfectly.

A antenna tuner circuit which incorporates the resistance of the panel meter light into the accuracy of the meter. One must wonder why they would do this. They no longer support this unit so the bulb is hard to find. It is an axial lead bulb much like a axial lead resistor. I could replace the bulb with a resistor that is the same ohms as the bulb, I suppose. No back lit meter then but at least the meter would work again. Dumb design.

I had a lego pack sitting around that I has sorta messed up years ago for somthing, desided see if I could jam a 9v to 5v converter in it, to say the least I sorta went way smaller than I actually needed, in theory it can take 1.5 amps, I wont get even close to that using it, to help with the heat it has some copper sheet attached the sits against the AA to help spread heat from it, parts used are two 10UF caps, ceramic 0.47UF on 9v side and a ceramic 0.1UF on the 5v side, the souldering is a little rough, but this is the smallest thing Ive ever made by far, Im sure it would be better if I did it a few times.

i had one mechanical keyboard after getting bored i tried to reverse engineer it but i couldn't send any usb data or i could not see much on the terminal when i tried to see if it listens to the data and after opening i saw that it only takes +5v and gnd plus the processor something like BYK.. was a hard coded chip that doesnt listen notes i was newbie to hardware and really scared to try anything. so i gave up but seeing my brother have a kreo rgb keyboard it gave me some boost to open it up and i learned so much and burnt my hand while trying to solder.

heck i even burnt the solder iron's wire itself (sniff sniff whats that smell).

so the plane was that i would use a mcu as esp 32 or pico that listen to my command and can do anything that i want .

first month really ....

i bought a mulitmeter and did the traces of all the rows and col sicne there was no pcb and other design files there i didnt know how keyboard matrix works at all i went rhough whole thing.. after getting all the traces and nothing them i was really soul scattered by the fact how this whole thing worked but then i got to know this was a common thing everyone knew this.

after this i took pico as the main mcu why...

1. it was small
2. it has higher clock speed.
3. it was one sale since the esp was on boom and the price of pico was dropped
4. it has more computer power that i needed for Fourier transform for disco light that i wanted for the custom rgbs i would put there

quickly after that i ran into a problem of less gpio also

after that i took a longer time to solder since i was learning and it was very scarry to solder on the pcb but as i did i grew more confident .. after burning my finger prints.

i bought a io expander because of 6 rows and 17 cols it got burnt and again tried that was jittering the one signal was affecting other signal. so i gave up 3-4 cols and went for the gpio full on.

The RGBs... Hardest

the rgb i had to cut each rgb strip stick them all on each keys then use the single core wired without the cover and solder each joints aroung 300 small pieces of them total 600 joints appx and it was tough because heating one end would make other end heat up also.

but since i cascaded 100 of them the voltage kept decreasing and it was 0.5v at the end so i just provided supply from both of rows and it worked and there was no deeming and jitters.

thats it... if u want to know about the logic behind it then u can ask me i will add it most of things and testing and all the stuff is in the video

TI sells a light-sensing IC (OPT3001). Since it needs to detect light, the package is clear. I think this is very cool. A couple pictures have a quarter for scale.

Really baffling decision, my last order from them was only a few months ago. Apparently Linux is no longer a "standard" operating system!

video

Have been using the SpaceMouse Enterprise for about 3 years, always think the surrounding buttons are among the worst, both the feel and layout are awful. Today the delete key stopped working, so I took it apart to repair, also as a good opportunity to see what's inside. I thought it would be some crappy key switches, to my surprise, it's membrane. It feels strange to see such a relatively expensive device using membrane keypads.

Edit:

To be clear, I'm not against the use of membranes on expensive devices. It's totally fine and common in practice. It's the combination of the terrible layout and stiff membrane that makes it difficult to use. I have to stretch out my fingers at a strange angle and press hard.

What am I trying to say is, for such a device that is advertised to be ergonomic, users should of course expect to have good buttons. Additionally, comparing to the basic model, it costs 3x the money to have more buttons, we deserve a better solution than this.

Small share: I'm building a connected mailbox (ESP32 + LoRa) that notifies me when the mail carrier passes by, and I wanted the transmitter unit (inside the mailbox, battery-powered) to draw as little current as possible. Instead of going with classic deep sleep, I went with a full hardware power cutoff using a MOSFET.

The circuit comes from Random Nerd Tutorials:
https://randomnerdtutorials.com/latching-power-switch-circuit-auto-power-off-circuit-esp32-esp8266-arduino/

The principle: a contact (a push button in their design, a reed switch on my mailbox flap in mine) briefly wakes the board through a P-channel MOSFET, then a GPIO takes over to keep the power on while the program runs, and cuts everything off itself once its job is done.

The only thing I added compared to the original schematic is a small capacitor, to avoid an unwanted power cut if the contact happens to open again just before the GPIO has had time to take over.

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I read the different values on each tap in can capactor the get a single matching cap with equal or greater voltage and temp. Then set them as you see on a daughterboard, binding all grounds to a common ground post. Then run wiring to the appropiate terminal or junction of where that value capactor was in the circuit before. I find this way an efficient and orderly way to replace older multi-can capactors. The daughter board is attached to chassis by one or two small, "L" brackets.

From left to right:

Intel B8702A

Fujitsu MBM27C64

SGS M2716F1

Motorola MCM27A08

Mostek ET2716Q

Eurotechnique ET2716Q

SEEQ DQ27128

Intel QD2716

TI TMS2764

Testing a .001 uf 6000v door knob capactor for leackage, both passed at least up to the 600v this IT-28 Capactor tester can run. Not the 2000 to 3000 volts that are possible in a SB-220 but it should be close enough if the "eye" does not close at 600v they should be good.

The old paper wound caps were replaced with new metal electrolitic caps, and bleed resister array which bleeds voltage off caps when unit is turned off. New metering board on the front of the power pack to feed readout meters on front panel. Older chokes and caps were removed from botyom grid circuit and the grid was grounded to chasis for better stability. A soft-key was built and added to the amp key up circuit to ne compatable with modern radios. Old coax and wiring replaced to higher temp and voltage rated material.

Rf choke replacement

Dreading placing those SMDs… I need a PnP 😭

Open to anything, including discussions, complaints, and rants.

Sub rules do not apply, so don't bother reporting incivility, off-topic, or spam.

Reddit-wide rules do apply.

To see the newest posts, sort the comments by "new" (instead of "best" or "top").