I don’t prefer it to 2D, but 3D is fun sometimes.

For anyone on the fence, I just got the BDI Elements media console that's on clearance in a bunch of places in. It is an amazing console - super well built, and all the right conveniences. KEF Q150/Q250c fits perfect. No clutter!

I tried the center both on and in the console and could not audibly hear a difference. I'm sure someone can, but I can't.

The SVS PB12-NSD's positioning is suboptimal, but seems to still sound great and no rattles. The port has around 8" of clearance in front.

Is the tv mounted too high? The cabinet is 20” tall. We were going to mount a floating cabinet but ended up getting a standing cabinet.

I’m trying to clean up my living room setup and need a new TV stand. Right now the receiver and consoles are basically sitting wherever I can fit them, and the cables are starting to get annoying. I’m looking for a stand with good ventilation, decent storage, and enough width for a larger TV without making the whole room look too bulky.

Any recommendations for a TV stand that works well with home theater gear? Thanks in advance.

Running a strdh790. 2 es20. Xt30. Rsl 10e

Whats going to give me the most bang for my buck.? Sub? Rears? Height ch?

I currently have a Marantz Cinema 40 and was running a 7.1.2 set-up. We are moving to a new house and it already has 4 atmos speakers and my cinema 40 won't be able to handle the extra 2 atmos speakers. What equipment do I need to be able to run a 7.2.4 system without getting rid of the cinema 40.

Thanks in advance.

Hi,
I would like to get opinion from owners of Anthem MRX 740 8k and Marantz Cinema 50 (S2) that are on my shortlist which one you would recommend for 5.1.2 setup with architectural / plastered speakers. Use is split roughly 70% streaming / movies, 20% gaming (PS5 + Steam Machine), 10% music over AirPlay. AVR placement will be in technical room in AV rack.

Speakers:
- L/R - 6 ohm, 75W RMS (150W peak), 83 dB sensitivity (vendor recommends 100W amps)
- C - 8 ohm, 120W RMS, 93 dB sensitivity
- Atmos / Surrounds - 4 ohm, 50 RMS (100W peak), 90 dB sensitivity
- Active Sub

Anthem
+ 170W at 6 ohm for channels 1-5 which is great fit for speakers above
+ Really like virtual inputs and fully dynamic amp assignment
+ Rack kits easy to find / simple to mount
- Price in EU is roughly 25-30% more than Cinema 50 S2 with full Dirac suite
- Available only as custom order in my country, so I have no way to see / listen to this AVR

What I would like to hear from Anthem owners is what you like / dislike on the unit. And if you can answer following.

? 8k version is from 2022 and I'm little bit worried about platform refresh (previous generations were released 2013, 2016, 2020 and 2022) so it's roughly end of 3-4 year cycle for current generation. If you would be choosing would you buy again right now or would you wait till start of next year to see if there will be refresh announced?
? Unknown stability of IP drivers / commands for integration. I've seen some articles that integrators preferred RS-232 control over IP. If someone is using IP integration how well is it working for you?
? Some reviewers complained that HDMI source switching is really slow. How fast / slow is it really?

Cinema 50 S2
+ AVR refresh with latest codecs and support for gaming features for next years
+ Support for Dirac Live, Bass and ART
+ Well-documented and stable IP drivers / commands for custom integration
+ All major music streaming services are built-in
- Paid upgrade for Dirac licences and calibration mic bumps price another 1k USD
- Rack mount kits are hard to find and I'm little bit worried to place this on the shelf without proper fixture as my AV rack slides on the rails from furniture.

Similar ask from owners what you like / dislike on the unit that you will not see in showroom.

? Is there a way to somehow achieve simple switching between daytime watching and night mode? I know that it's possible to have different speaker layouts for Anthem but I haven't seen anything in manual that would look like simple filter / switch to drop sub in the night and focus more on dialogue. Only thing I've seen is support for BT headphones but maybe I'm just missing something.
? Amps are 150W at 6 ohm for 2 channels driven with 70% guarantee (105W). I should be safe on paper but would you be comfortable with built-in amp or would you use external amp for L/R/C in my speaker setup?
? Similar ask for HDMI switching - how fast / slow the unit reacts?

Thanks

Basement wall getting a tv and built in shelves and base cabinet. Adding a lot of outlets and some Smurf tubing.

Will have a 65 inch tv mounted. We aren’t major audiophiles or anything, but figured now is the chance to make improvements.

One additional challenge is the pipe in the photo is our main water line with two shut offs, as well as we need to keep access at the top of the top right corner of the wall for outdoor water pipe shutoff.

Thanks for any help! 🫶

I replaced my old IKEA TV stand, which worked like a champ, with one on wayfair because I upgraded to a bigger size TV, 55 to a 65, and the overhang was a bit much.

It said solid wood but getting it definitely wasn't, and it also could support 500lbs, this is also false.

The stand has my 65" lg c4 and a device that allows sound to come out of it instead of the tv. Some would say it's bar shaped. Stupid filter that won't let me put sound and bar together.and it starting to bend/sag in the middle. I'm scared one day I'm going to come home and the TV stand will have collapsed

So im in search of another TV stand, solid wood preferably or something sturdy. I went to a local furniture store and they said they don't carry them because nobody uses them anymore and just hangs them, but living in an apartment and the placement of the tv, I'm unable to hang it

I thought about getting a utility shelf, but even those seem to be cheeply made now. So what is everyone using that they think is a sturdy and not going to break if you move it

I checked the Amish, and apparently they don't ship, and must go to one of their stores, so that's out of the question for me. The only 2 furniture stores around me are bons and Ashley, so the quality won't be that great

I'm up for anything that works, I may still try a utility shelf and just take it back to home depot if it sucks.

I'd like to spend no more than $500 due to apartment living, can't be mounted.

Don't waste over $100 on official THX blue filter glasses on eBay.

Buy the Primary Acetate Sheets by Creatology from the Michael's crafting store for only $7, then staple the blue acetate sheets, and now you have yourself some DIY THX glasses.

https://www.michaels.com/product/primary-acetate-sheets-50ct-by-creatology-10715769

Extremely beginner in the space and need advice. I am looking to assemble a front LCR for my 5.1.2 setup. I already got pinnacle sfit twr 1050 (planning to use as surrounds) and Energy Pro Series 3.5 Bookshelf (planning to use as atmos or rear speakers depending on 5.1.2/7.1). I also have an Energy ES 12 XL Subwoofer. The last remaining piece is a good matching front LCR setup.

Nearby to me on FB Marketplace are these Polk speakers combined as two towers and a center channel which is exactly what I am looking for. The rest of my system is already pretty vintage and that is not an issue for me as long as it works and sounds good. The price was lowered recently to $80 which is perfect for my budget as long as they dont sound like garbage and would mesh with the rest of my setup okay.

The center channel is the Polk CSi40 and the towers I believe are Polk RTA 8T.

Please let me know whether this would be a good option to move forward for my initial budget home theater.

I usually use my subwoofer for music but I can never get crossover/volume right, when I listen to rap music I set it too loud because when I listen to rock I can’t hear it at all so I turn it up. Then next song comes on and it’s too loud. What am I doing wrong and how can I set it up right?

I've got a Yamaha RX-V6A and my subwoofers have no output when using my turntable. They work fine with the TV as a source. Am I missing a setup screen or do I have the wrong sound mode? They don't work with Pure Direct on or off.

After my recent post I followed your tips to tape it on the wall. This is 77” what do you all think? Bigger?

Can anyone tell me what the heck is going on here?

Can I do something like this with recessed ceiling DIY acoustic panels to have Atmos in-ceiling speakers?

Doing in wall speaker install. Seating will be 12ft from tv. Since I am doing in wall and can’t toe the speakers in should I move them closer to the TV to fill in the sound? I was thinking 10ft apart. I can’t go closer than 9ft because of the TV.

I originally paid more attention to my Hisense E7 Pro because of the gaming side of it - refresh rate, VRR, Game Mode, all that stuff.

But realistically I probably spend just as much time watching movies and shows on it now. And that made me realize I don't really switch my brain between "this is my gaming TV" and "this is my movie TV." It's just the TV in the living room that needs to do both well.

Obviously if you're building a dedicated theater that's a different story, but for a normal mixed-use setup, are there still things you'd prioritize specifically for movies that you'd be willing to sacrifice on the gaming side? Curious where people here draw that line.

I’m currently planing to upgrade my audio setup for at home movie watching. My current setup is fairly modest, just a Denon 1700H and a pair of Kef Q1s for LR. My chief complaint is that dialogue tends to be too quiet while watching movies/TV (and yes I have dialogue enhancer settings turned on). I have budgeted to purchase one of three upgrades for this year. What do you think makes the most sense to prioritize?

1. Purchasing a Q6 center and subwoofer (likely an svs)

2. Upgrade my receiver to a Denon 3800 (I’ve been a Denon loyalist for years, open to other suggestions)

3. Upgrade my LR speakers to Kef Concertos (or go all the way to R3s).

I’ll try to upgrade all these in the next year or two but don’t think I can spend $3000-$4000 all at once. What do you think would be biggest quality of life improvements I could make?

Hey so my amp went out on my rp-1400sw. Klisch mailed me a replacement amp but I cant figure out how to make the switch with how tiny the opening is and not being able to see a thing....

Has anyone here done this? Any advice? Is there anyway to get a panel off to access?

I found a killer deal on an open box LG G5 77” for $1700, but I’m putting together a dedicated home theater room and can’t help but think it’s going to end up feeling too small.

I’ve had Hisense TVs before and always been really happy with the picture quality. Would I be crazy to give up a LG G5 for the extra screen size?

I feel like the added level of immersion at 100” would be a solid trade-off.

Quick note; this would be a mix of 4K movies and also PC gaming.

I'm a casual tv watcher, I don't want anything too basic, but I also don't need the highest quality. I can afford an OLED, but I'm not sure I'd actually benefit from spending that much because my TV watching is pretty inconsistent. I will be buying a 65”.

These are the overall totals after tax/ warranty ...

Lg OLED = $2,000

The TCL Mini-LED = $930

Which would you recommend?

Hi guys, I've recently added surround back to my pioneer sc lx 701. Dolby atmos content or other dolby audio seems to make no difference.

Current channel setup is 7.1.4 setup. I'm using a stereo amp for the front. It seems no content I play utilise the rear surround channels even though it shows up in the channel level test.

Any advise finding content that actually uses the rear?

I've finally gotten around to troubleshooting some audio issues I've had in my home theater setup since earlier in this year. The main one was an intermittent low end thump on the back channels of my L95TR system. Turns out CAC in AppleTV was the culprit or, well, Dolby MAT to be more specific (was having the same problem on the PS5 until I discovered the Dolby Atmos audio priority function in settings does what CAC does, ie, wraps audio in a Dolby MAT container).

Seems like it was kinda screwing up the sound in general. Everything was much louder with CAC on, but compressed/muddy. After turning it off everything sounds so much better. My wife noticed it too, and she's much less picky than me (the back channel noise didn't even bother her, but she did notice an improvement to sound without being prompted to weigh in).

I think in general if you notice sound problems like this on any streaming device you have, try to figure out if it has its own feature that uses Dolby MAT wrapper, then turn that off. This will cause audio drops when your next piece of media has a different audio format from the last (stereo to Atmos, let's say) but I have been able to get the delay to basically zero by going through my TV and disabling features that post process audio (pretty much anything with AI in the name, or things that claim to help sync HDMI audio and video are actually adding latency and you only want them on if you notice a problem that requires automated intervention at the panel level).

I'm wandering around fora Johnny Appleseeding this information because it's been driving me crazy on the AppleTV since March, and longer on my Playstation. Hope it saves people some headaches.