Currently knitting the Moinear by Ailbiona McLochlainn, I thought it was going okay, but suddenly got concerned that my floats are too tight and want to address if they are before I go any further. Can anyone with more experience weigh in? I know it’s hard to tell through photos, but any guidance hugely appreciated. Thanks so much.

Hello all:
A member of my knitting group recently passed and her yarns and books have been given to some of us. I have found patterns and correct yarns for four of her afghans but I am stumped on this piece. I’m reasonably sure it was a cardigan in process and I know (given her taste and stash) it is a wool worsted tweed yarn. Any help you can offer on:
What’s this pattern?
What’s this yarn and colorway?
Thanks in advance, I really appreciate it. I want to honor my friend’s craft and creativity by finishing this as she would have.

I recognise the second picture being Ragland increase but what is the first pictures increase style?
Is there such thing as multi Ragland?

I'm currently planning to knit this sweater (Norppa by Mia Summell), which is knit bottom-up with raglan shaping at the neckline. Unfortunately I really dislike the way the raglan looks on this sweater, but I love the chart.

I've never knit bottom up, I've only ever done top-down drop shoulder and raglan sweaters, and I'm contemplating potentially knitting the sweater top-down and adding in the colourwork. Would the colourwork still read well that way? This is my first time venturing into colourwork so please forgive me if this is a silly question!! :)

Hello! I've been knitting for a few months now and am pretty confident with the basics. This is my second stranded colourwork sock and my tension in colourwork still looks bad? Sometimes it looks like my non dominant stitches disappear (see pic 3, pic 4 to prove the green stitch is there just hidden!)

I knit continental and use a ring to knit both yarns at the same time. I understand colour dominance and the white yarn is on the left this whole section.

I knit inside out and spread my stitches a lot on my right needle so the floats don't end up too short. Maybe this is part of the issue - are my floats too long?

Any advice welcome, thank you :)

Hello knitters! I’m making the Eken sweater )
(https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/eken-sweater) and I just separated the sleeves. I tried it on and I noticed a lot of puckering around the arms and the neck seems to be sitting quite high on the back considering that the collar hasn’t been added yet.

I have never made modifications to a pattern before but I’m happy to try things out to make it fit better. It’s a raglan with a construction that I personally haven’t seen before, started flat and joined in the round later.
I am aiming for an oversized look and I’m making this a couple sizes larger than the recommended size for my measurements.

Thanks to anyone who can help :)

I don’t understand the second row.
It says purl to yarn over, p1 and then purl to yarn over, purl yarn over. Is there a difference between these two instructions?

Is it:
1. I purl the yarn over, purl another stitch and mark it
OR
2. Purl yarn over and mark it everytime?

I was doing a moss stitch and came across this stitch? What did I do wrong and how do I fix it? Please help!

I am making a hat for my dad and he is going to love it even if objectively it’s kind of bad, lol. But it’s SOO tight that it isn’t even enjoyable to knit! My hands are cramping.

I’m holding two strands of dk weight cotton yarn and using 4.5mm needles.

This pattern is supposed to have 0-2 inches of negative ease. My first time knitting a garment like this. Wondering if I should have made the armholes bigger or if having them a little tight like this is normal and will breathe/can be stretched a bit more with blocking. I’m using a merino nylon blend.

Hi all! I started this double knit scarf. As you can see from photos, I have been doing a solid colored selvedge edge. I thought about switching the colors every row those sections but decided a solid color line of stitches on the end looked most polished.

This is my second time double knitting, but the first time it was in the round. I’ve tried looking up videos how to fix a selvedge edge but it only shows dropped stitches, not how to fix a misplaced color switch.

Any advice or pointers toward tutorials would be much appreciated!

*edited to add- do yall think I should have done the edging different than I originally intended?

Yarn used:
-Yarnspirations Patons Grace 100% mercerized cotton in ‘Night’ for the black
-Loops and threads skyscape 78% acrylic and 22% nylon in ‘cream and purple multi’ for the contrast color

I’m planning my second sweater, and I’m planning to use a lighter weight yarn than called for. I did the math and at my desired gauge I just need to follow the stitch counts for a couple sizes up, but I’m not sure how much yarn to get. Should I just get the yardage for the larger size? Multiply the smaller size’s yardage by the gauge ratio? Something else?

SOLVED!!! I can do an exclusively knit row or purl row just fine but the alternating KP row is so hard. I’ve been working on it on and off all weekend to now.

I’m knitting the Northland by Petit Knit. The pattern says to pick up approx 100 stitches along the neck edge. I’ve followed the ratios (1:1 on back and front and slanted edge, 2 in 3 on the straight side edge) and I’ve only picked up 85 stitches. How do I fix this? Even picking up 1:1 on the straight edges will only add 4 stitches. Do I need to add stitches where it changes from straight to slanted?

This is my first time doing short rows. My problem comes in Short row 3. In my photo, the turquoise marker is my BOR and the orange ones are the Raglan markers.

So in row 3 I take the directions to mean knit to 1 before RM and do the increase section twice. Once before each of the RMs. Where my problem lies is in the next step: knit to 4 stitches before doubled stitch and turn work. My doubled stitch came BEFORE I would get to the farthest RM. I don’t have an image because I already unpicked back to the begging of Short row 1.

Does the instruction knit to x number of stitches before

RM/Double stitch mean before you get to it? Or does it mean x number of stitches past it? (Which would make more sense to me).

I’ve made a swatch for the Dagmar Jacket and ordered some wool wash but it’s delayed. In the past I’ve used dish detergent to block merino wool and I believe the garment came out correctly after drying.

For regular wool, would it make a difference when blocking if I were to use a non wool wash?

This is my first piece and im just learning to knit - why does it have some larger holes? What have I missed?

I’m planning to make this sweater for my dad’s Christmas present. The suggested yarn is no longer available, and a yarn substitute website suggested Lana grossa soft tweed.

I made a swatch (not pictured) using the recommended needle size, and it came out way too tight at 28 sts/10 cm so I sized up to a U.S. 9. This is what’s pictured and is the right gauge at 20sts/10 cm.

While new swatch is at the right gauge, I’m not sure I like the fabric. The stitch definition isn’t great and it feels very loose—it seems pretty see through although it’s not coming through in the photo (a good thing I guess).

I suppose my question is, am I obsessing over a normal feature of the yarn or is it really not the right yarn for this pattern?

i’m kind of a beginner so i’m not great at modifying patterns. i’m trying to make my friend some gyaru style socks so i was thinking just make the cuff longer and then maybe going up a needle size for that too? but i’m not really sure lol. any advice would help!

Just finished my Frej sweater but the first row keeps disappearing. I assume a tension issue but i tried adding more yarn and stretching it but it still won’t show. what can i do?

Update: Thank you all for the help! This is my first big project as a beginner other than a pair of socks. I guess lesson learned!

Okay, back again. I pulled a pattern off of Ravelry to work up some gorgeous silk yarn I have, but I think it was translated from a different language cause some of the grammar is weird, like in the section I'm currently having trouble with and I don't understand what is going on here. I just got finished working up this: Picture above. My needles are holding the very top stitches, where it looks like the triangular neck hole is going to close, I.E, Section A, Section B.

Okay, problem time: You will now assemble the yoke by knitting across all stitches, folding your work where you bound off for neckline. This move will close up both the neckline and the armholes.

I understand that it wants me to knit across all of the stitches at once and close the gap, but I don't understand what it means by folding it at the neckline to do so. If I do that, I'd just be turning the top into a tube, cause the front and back would be sew together, and if I fold it across the neckline and do it that way it still ends up being a tube.

NOTE: this is my first time EVER working on a top pattern (shawls don't count, they are long rectangles/wide half circles), so I know absolutely nothing about yokes.

Edit: I was asked to link the pattern, and add finished result pictures, so here is the link: https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/levnadslust

And here are finished product pictures for some reason I couldn't add the actual pictures, so here are links.: https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/lilikins/243327867/P1050374_medium.JPG, https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/flickr/9/2/6/9265988449/9265988449.jpg?webp=0 .

I am knitting a triangle lace shawl that increases 4 stitches every other row. I’m a beginner and have been off by a stitch or two here and there and have to redo a row which takes forever. Out of anxiety for stitch count I count and recount the stitches constantly which will eventually triple my project time. https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/beginners-lace-shawl is the pattern and if anyone has any tips on where I should place stitch markers in the pattern to count an even multiple of stitches consistently would be incredibly helpful!

(unsure what flair to use here)

isn’t the kitchener stitch the same as italian bind off just with the “knits” and “purls” on different needles? i can’t help noticing how it’s basically the same process, but when i brought it up to someone i was told vehemently that i was wrong but they didn’t really expand on why.