Look, I understand the knowledgeable ones hate dealerships, but I am not knowledgeable and and have finally decided enough is enough. This freaking place takes so long and charges so much and doesn’t resolve issues

Anyway, like two weeks ago I took in my 2013 Tacoma to the Toyota dealership bc I was only getting cold ac from the left driver vent. They said this was probably bc of a leak and they’d need to run some fuel test. Supposedly they found the leak and I paid like $300 for it to be fixed.

When I got the car back the leg ac vents still didn’t blow cold but the rest did, and this isn’t the first time the dealership doesn’t fully resolve a problem but I was so irritated I didn’t immediately go back.

It’s been 2 weeks and now the original issue is back again, only cold air in the far left vent.

What should I do 😭 should I go to a smaller parts store? Watch a YouTube video? Please and thank you.

So I have a 1999 Subaru Wrx, I just did the clutch and while getting it back in had to wait until my new downpipe gasket arrived. I had to move another car in so I pulled it out and it started just fine, i now have the gasket. Drove the car into the garage totally fine (fine enough without a downpipe) put my exhaust back on without a top mount and it started like normal. Shut it off and now every time I try to start it it just clicks once and that’s it.

So far I’ve checked another battery that is for sure good… nothing. Hit it with a hammer, cleaned and checked my terminals and their tightness, took the starter off and put it back on. And hooked a multimeter up and it’s reading the right volts but it all leads back to nothing

I can spin the motor freely by hand so it’s not locked up too.

Any help here would be appreciated

So I have a 1999 Subaru Wrx Manual 2.0L Ej20g closed deck, I just did the clutch and while getting it back in had to wait until my new downpipe gasket arrived. I had to move another car in so I pulled it out and it started just fine, i now have the gasket. Drove the car into the garage totally fine (fine enough without a downpipe) put my exhaust back on without a top mount and it started like normal. Shut it off and now every time I try to start it it just clicks once and that’s it.

So far I’ve checked another battery that is for sure good… nothing. Hit it with a hammer, cleaned and checked my terminals and their tightness, took the starter off and put it back on. And hooked a multimeter up and it’s reading the right volts but it all leads back to nothing

I can spin the motor freely by hand so it’s not locked up too.

Any help here would be appreciated

someone please help me identify this horrible noise coming from my car in the mornings mostly. still can hear it in the afternoon but this is getting worse. got a diag and 2 visuals inspections and they cannot find any thing. cv axle and sway bar links along with the basic stuff you would think is checked off. not sure what to do at this point

I have a 2007 Saturn Ion-2 2.2 that I replaced a water pump on and the sprocket holding tool became loose causing a DTC (p0016) to pop up. It drove fine for about a week but died while I was warming up the engine one day. Two additional codes (p0341 and p0520) popped up. Fast forward. 8 months later I'm trying to repair it. The chain didn't snap but a tiny piece of the small top guide had chipped off causing the chain to sag a little. Thank God the piece sat near a rocker arm. The other guides seem to be still intact.

Before I replace the chains, I want to do a leak down test to check the valves. I have removed several components like the valve cover, intake manifold, coolant reservoir and some hoses fuel rail, etc. I have a leak down tester that might be defective or maybe I'm just not using it correctly.

Can someone please ELI5 how to use it? A few things: air seeps from two places. 1 is a hole under the air adjustment knobs hex bolt. Maybe it's a bleeder hole? The other is from the hose that connects to the hose that screws into the spark plug hole. Another thing is the right side gauges needle goes way to the right, past 0 clockwise to 100 on the other side. For example, the needle is naturally at 100 (redzone) when nothing is hooked to the tester, or the compressor is hooked up but the air isn't being let through. When I adjust the knob to let air through, as the psi on the left gauge goes up, the needle on the right side gradually goes from 100 past the yellow zone, past the green zone, past the second yellow zone, past 0 all the way back to the 100 mark. This is one way clockwise and with the psi on the left barely reaching 40-60 psi

Can someone give me some advice on this or does it seem like the tester is bad?

Note: Air seeps frim those places when a certain amount of air is let in

Thanks

I have a 05 Toyota matrix 1zz-fe.
There is a fair amount of cranks case pressure (you can feel it really puffing if you take the oil cap off)
I’ve replaced the pvc valve and tested compression. Factory compression was 210psi and a minimum if 145psi I believe. My lowest was 190 with most at 200.

What else can cause it or what else could I check here?

Was driving down the interstate going 60 when I heard loud noise and truck started shaking violently, pulled it into a hotel parking lot and am waiting for a tow, where do I go from here?

Edit: I mean is it worth fixing

While jumping right into this, I would like to start off by saying that I’ve been chasing an ongoing issue with my manual 2003 Mach 1 for months and I’m reaching the point where I’m ready to give up on diagnosing it myself and take it to a shop.

For some insight, the car currently has approximately 117,600 miles, a K&N intake, stock manifolds and H-pipe, and Borla ATAK mufflers.

The original recurring code was P0172 (System Too Rich Bank 1). It came back roughly once per month in March, April, May and July. Then in August, instead of P0172, I received P0420 (Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1) twice within five days and only 164 miles. The car is my daily and mainly drive it with highway miles considering a 60 mile round-trip commute, so this is pretty concerning for me.

I’ll attach the freeze-frame reports separately so everyone can see the fuel trims, speeds, RPM, load and fuel-pressure data for themselves.

The main symptoms have been:

- Uneven and slightly shaky idle

- Car sometimes rocks at idle almost like it has very mild cams (very Lumpy Tone)

- Passenger-side exhaust is consistently sounding a bit louder, and bubblier/poppy

- Driver-side exhaust sounds noticeably cleaner/smoother/growly (best I can explain it)

- Occasional pops/backfire around 2,500–3,000rpm when having a little bit of a light heavy foot and switching gears from 1st to 2nd

- Constant popping like popcorn while holding the revs at 2,000–3,000 rpm’s

- Low-rpm acceleration can feel heavy or sluggish

- Occasional difficult restarts after the car sits for approximately 5–30 minutes (found this out by the car struggling to turn on after consistently turning it off and on in a long drive through line)

- Cold starts are usually stronger than hot starts, but can still give me issue when cranking over before starting
General Occasional weak starting

- In the past, the engine occasionally stalled after high-speed driving and throwing it in neutral, or while coasting downhill in neutral

- Fuel economy has been approximately 14–15 mpg, even though MOST of my driving is on the freeway in 5th gear with my stock 3.55 Gearing (I know this because I daily the car lot and consistently top off the Car in gas and measure it EVERY TIME by resetting the trip meter)

- Full tank of premium (15.7 Gallons) Last me 230 miles MAX (Mainly Highway Miles)

- The codes always appear while the engine is fully warm and I’m steadily cruising on the freeway (not while idling in my driveway)

This is everything I’ve done trying to fix or narrow down the problem:

- Installed eight new NGK iridium spark plugs

- Gapped the plugs approximately .050–.053 inch

- Replaced the coils with a complete set of used Edelbrock coils off a 99 Cobra That WAS Working

- Swapped the Bank 1 injectors with used set of Bank 1 injectors from another 2003 Mach 1 (24Lb)

- Installed a new fuel pump

- Installed a new fuel filter

- Replaced all four O₂ sensors with new sensors (NTK)
drove around a bit got the code again Swapped the upstream O₂ sensors left-to-right

- Also moved the other O₂ sensors left-to-right during diagnosis

- The problem continued to remain associated with Bank 1

- Swapped the CCRM with one from another 2003 Mach 1

- Cleaned the original IAC then noticed no change also with my idling issue so I ended up, replacing the IAC with a used Lincoln Mark VIII IAC I got from the Junkyard

- Cleaned the MAF using proper MAF cleaner

- Used fuel-system treatment TWICE! (3 month Gap between uses)

- Sprayed brake cleaner around the intake manifold looking for a vacuum leak (Did not notice an obvious idle change during the brake-cleaner test)

- Replaced the passenger-side radio noise suppressor (advice from a friend)

- recently swapped in the MAF from other other 2003 Mach 1 (That WORKS)

The most recent MAF swap happened after the second P0420 just yesterday (August 31st), so I don’t have enough driving time yet to know whether it changed anything, but then again, I’m not sure if it will because if it really was the MAF, then it would be affecting both banks, but we will have to see, it’s more of a why not I guess. But for the most part it has still sounds and feels the same at idle.

The plugs greatly improved the original weakness of power and sluggish starts and cleaning/replacing the IAC from the Lincoln MKVlll helped the stalling, but the uneven idle noise from the passenger-side exhaust end is still noticeably different with occasional popping more consistent condensation, and smoke on cold starts from that side (Bank 1)

I own a set of BBK long-tube headers and a matching BBK catted X-pipe, but I have not installed them yet. I don’t want to install new catalytic converters and possibly damage them if the engine is still running super rich.

At this point I really don’t know what else it could possibly be besides a vacuum leak or some sort maybe but considering that this car is my daily and deeply need to find out what’s wrong with it, I’m willing to spend some money (Nothing Crazy) for a genuinely deep diagnosis from a shop. I don’t want to pay someone just to scan the codes and recommend a MAF or catalytic converter based on the code description. I want somebody to test the fuel pressure mechanically, check pressure after shutdown, inspect the EVAP purge system, evaluate the MAF data, test the injectors and compare the Bank 1 O₂ signals before and after or generally just whatever the procedure might be to crack down on this shit that’s making me go insane!

I would still 110% rather diagnose and repair it myself if possible. I’ve considered buying a smoke machine and compression tester, especially because I can use those tools again. However, I don’t want to keep spending money on tools or parts that won’t actually narrow this problem down.

Based on these symptoms and everything already replaced or swapped:

- Would buying a smoke machine meaningfully help with this specific problem?

- Is a full compression test justifiable?

- What should I test next before paying a shop?

- If I take it in, what specific tests should I require for a proper diagnosis? And how much am I looking at$?

- Could the original rich-running/misfire condition have damaged the Bank 1 catalytic converter and caused the two recent P0420 codes. And how badly do I need to get this fixed before anything else gets fucked up?

- Is there anything else to the 2003–2004 Mach 1 or Ford fuel systems that commonly causes this combination of symptoms?

I’m attaching all six freeze-frame reports along with the list of work completed. I’m looking for a proper direction. The car still runs strong (from what I know) but I’ve always been wanting to overthink everything and not ignore a problem before it turns more severe (talking from experience) so I’m a bit paranoid and just want to fix it as soon as possible so I can make sure that my Mach is not only being as efficient as it possibly can but at its best potential.

I’ve put a lot of time, effort and money into trying to solve this, and I’m honestly reaching the point where I don’t know what else to do. I really love this car and I’m willing to keep it for the long run. I’ve made it to be everything that I’ve ever wanted and I’ve been trying so hard to keep it running correctly, please help me and keeping my baby alive and healthy. I’m more than willing to communicate about any questions or concerns!

Thank you all!

What will I fuck up that I shouldn't fuck up? I'm looking for anything I need to be aware of that isn't completely obvious.

Slight bulge and gap in the tire as in the photo. The tire is 3 years old, only 15k miles. Does it need to be replaced and is it safe to drive on? Thank you all!

https://www.reddit.com/r/nursing/comments/1w44437/ohthats_where_my_10mm_socket_went/

What is this noise??

I have taken my car to 3 different mechanics and no one can seem to tell me what this noise is or they don’t hear it on test drives. It most frequently happens when driving 35 to 55 mph and when coasting. Noise goes away when braking. Seems to appear most often on bumpy roads/speed bumps. Just put new guide pins in, pads and rotors are all less than 6 months old, and michelin tires only have 30k miles on them and are wearing evenly. Tires have been balanced and alignment is good. I appreciate any ideas or thoughts. TYIA

ETA: I believe it’s a 2.5L turbo

Looking for some advice. My prius has 185k miles and it was having rough starts that would even out after about 5 seconds. After a week it threw a code for a cylinder 2 misfire, i noticed i had lost anout half the coolant in the reservoir as well. I replaced the spark plugs and ignition coils and the code went away. I also refilled my coolant. It started fine, drove smoother, better mpg. However after 2 weeks it shook bad at start up then the code came back. I've had it sitting for a couple of weeks until I could run a boroscope in. I noticed that it also lost about an inch of coolant from the reservoir. I dont see any obvious leaks under the vehicle. I was wondering if anyone could give me an idea of what may be going on. Sorry the photos aren't super clear.

Hey all,

My wife drives a 2011 Hyundai Sonata(auto, 285,000km), engine replaced in 2017 with a used one. It's on it's last legs now, but I am trying to keep it going as long as possible.

She went to get an oil change without prior issues. Once she turned it on after the oil change, the CEL started flashing and the tech used his scanner and pulled a couple o2 and knock sensor codes.

He tried to clear them so she could go, but they did not clear and she drove home(about 3km). Car made it home okay, but she has anxiety with car stuff and I can't get a full picture of what happened. I am trying to save some money here, can anyone provide me with suggestions on what this could be, or anything I can try before I take it in?

It starts fine, no weird noises. I checked the oil cap, gas cap etc, but I can't get under to see if they spilled oil on a sensor.

I know this is probably a dumb question but I want to go have a go at it before I spend any more money on it. Thanks in advance

Good morning everyone. I’m not sure if this is the right subreddit, but I’ll give it a shot (apologies if not). I have a 2008 Renault Clio 3 ("Le Iene" edition) and I’m having a problem I can't quite identify. Before heading to a garage and getting ripped off, I wanted to ask if any of you recognize the issue.

I hear a metallic scraping sound, like a bearing that’s lost its lubrication, when I turn the steering wheel while driving (there’s no noise when the car is stationary). I’ve attached a video so you can hear exactly what I mean.

I’ve noticed that if I drive the car after it’s been sitting for a while, it takes some time for the problem to reappear.

Thanks a lot in advance, everyone! ❤️

My girl has a 2011 Chevy Malibu LT (2.4 L) and she sent me this video with the car making this noise

Long time DIY-er who has worked as a mechanic assistant and has worked on their car multiple times as a hobby.

I’m giving up trying to figure out where this leak is for my AC. I bought the vacuum, refrigerant, Black light, etc and today, not sure if it was me being hungry, the water sprinklers turning on randomly and drenching my work space, or the southern heat, but decided to get it worked on by someone else.

After years of working on my car, replacing my AC over 3 times, I think I’m finally going to the mechanic. It’s a little embarrassing that I’ve given up, but I’m tired.

Totally relate to mechanics who just want a car that runs.