Recently bought a CVT (auto) 2012 2.0i premium impreza wagon. on the way home the radiator blew out. Went to Oreillys for a replacement, the replacement has two fittings for trans cooling lines. the broken radiator i removed does not have those fittings. After searching around the transmission i could not find any plugged cooling lines coming from the trans. Does this car have a separate cooling system for the trans? Did the previous owner really just have the trans uncooled? Any advice/ support would go a long way im seriously stuck. my ai is giving me all sorts of opposing answers. thanks.

So I have a 1999 Subaru Wrx Manual 2.0L Ej20g closed deck, I just did the clutch and while getting it back in had to wait until my new downpipe gasket arrived. I had to move another car in so I pulled it out and it started just fine, i now have the gasket. Drove the car into the garage totally fine (fine enough without a downpipe) put my exhaust back on without a top mount and it started like normal. Shut it off and now every time I try to start it it just clicks once and that’s it.

So far I’ve checked another battery that is for sure good… nothing. Hit it with a hammer, cleaned and checked my terminals and their tightness, took the starter off and put it back on. And hooked a multimeter up and it’s reading the right volts but it all leads back to nothing

I can spin the motor freely by hand so it’s not locked up too.

Any help here would be appreciated

So I have a 1999 Subaru Wrx, I just did the clutch and while getting it back in had to wait until my new downpipe gasket arrived. I had to move another car in so I pulled it out and it started just fine, i now have the gasket. Drove the car into the garage totally fine (fine enough without a downpipe) put my exhaust back on without a top mount and it started like normal. Shut it off and now every time I try to start it it just clicks once and that’s it.

So far I’ve checked another battery that is for sure good… nothing. Hit it with a hammer, cleaned and checked my terminals and their tightness, took the starter off and put it back on. And hooked a multimeter up and it’s reading the right volts but it all leads back to nothing

I can spin the motor freely by hand so it’s not locked up too.

Any help here would be appreciated

What will I fuck up that I shouldn't fuck up? I'm looking for anything I need to be aware of that isn't completely obvious.

someone please help me identify this horrible noise coming from my car in the mornings mostly. still can hear it in the afternoon but this is getting worse. got a diag and 2 visuals inspections and they cannot find any thing. cv axle and sway bar links along with the basic stuff you would think is checked off. not sure what to do at this point

I have a 2007 Saturn Ion-2 2.2 that I replaced a water pump on and the sprocket holding tool became loose causing a DTC (p0016) to pop up. It drove fine for about a week but died while I was warming up the engine one day. Two additional codes (p0341 and p0520) popped up. Fast forward. 8 months later I'm trying to repair it. The chain didn't snap but a tiny piece of the small top guide had chipped off causing the chain to sag a little. Thank God the piece sat near a rocker arm. The other guides seem to be still intact.

Before I replace the chains, I want to do a leak down test to check the valves. I have removed several components like the valve cover, intake manifold, coolant reservoir and some hoses fuel rail, etc. I have a leak down tester that might be defective or maybe I'm just not using it correctly.

Can someone please ELI5 how to use it? A few things: air seeps from two places. 1 is a hole under the air adjustment knobs hex bolt. Maybe it's a bleeder hole? The other is from the hose that connects to the hose that screws into the spark plug hole. Another thing is the right side gauges needle goes way to the right, past 0 clockwise to 100 on the other side. For example, the needle is naturally at 100 (redzone) when nothing is hooked to the tester, or the compressor is hooked up but the air isn't being let through. When I adjust the knob to let air through, as the psi on the left gauge goes up, the needle on the right side gradually goes from 100 past the yellow zone, past the green zone, past the second yellow zone, past 0 all the way back to the 100 mark. This is one way clockwise and with the psi on the left barely reaching 40-60 psi

Can someone give me some advice on this or does it seem like the tester is bad?

Note: Air seeps frim those places when a certain amount of air is let in

Thanks

Look, I understand the knowledgeable ones hate dealerships, but I am not knowledgeable and and have finally decided enough is enough. This freaking place takes so long and charges so much and doesn’t resolve issues

Anyway, like two weeks ago I took in my 2013 Tacoma to the Toyota dealership bc I was only getting cold ac from the left driver vent. They said this was probably bc of a leak and they’d need to run some fuel test. Supposedly they found the leak and I paid like $300 for it to be fixed.

When I got the car back the leg ac vents still didn’t blow cold but the rest did, and this isn’t the first time the dealership doesn’t fully resolve a problem but I was so irritated I didn’t immediately go back.

It’s been 2 weeks and now the original issue is back again, only cold air in the far left vent.

What should I do 😭 should I go to a smaller parts store? Watch a YouTube video? Please and thank you.

Hi I have been looking for the canister purge valve for a while and so far I was told it’s under the brake reservoir area and it requires me to remove the battery here’s the thing the brake reservoir is on my passenger side and my battery is on my driver side 🤦‍♂️ I found a video showing where the tube leading to it is but unfortunately I can’t distinguish where the valve is I also cannot distinguish how I would go about putting a new one in so now I’m forced to either find someone smart enough to find it and I’m unsure if my photos will help in any way due to the fact everyone on the matter is talking about the 3.0l and not the 3.7l unfortunately it appears it’s below the dash tucked below the firewall metal portion their is one video of the guy finding the tube but he doesn’t at any point show how you access the purge control valve so far the most I’ve been able to do is find the tube that leads to it, I can stick an endoscope in and to my surprise it’s under that metal firewall tucked in their but I can’t for the life of me find it. Unfortunately everyone who’s a subject master in this subject doesn’t know either this appears to be the sort of job you have to take apart the entire undercarriage just to install this $20 part and asking ai doesn’t work ai doesn’t appear to know either because it’s going off the more popular 3.0 model

I have a 2009 Lexus GX 470 with 212k miles and recently got a P0420 code. A shop told me I need a new catalytic converter and said I would probably fail emissions when the time comes.
I went and got my emissions test today and passed. My numbers were:
HC: 0.0651 g/mi, limit 0.6000
CO: 1.0579 g/mi, limit 15.0000
NOx: 0.1019 g/mi, limit 1.5000
So I was well under the limit on everything.
My question is, does how far under the emissions limit you are tell you anything about how healthy or worn out the catalytic converter is?
Basically, can a catalytic converter be partially degraded enough to trigger P0420 but still produce numbers this good and pass emissions?
The cats are original, so I’m trying to figure out if I should actually replace the Bank 1 catalytic converter or have the O2/A/F sensors and catalyst efficiency properly diagnosed first.
Anyone with experience with GX 470s or Toyota/Lexus emissions diagnostics have any thoughts?

Howdy y'all,
I've had some struggles this year on this vehicle. Oil consumption (a little more than 1qt/1000mi), and a reoccurring cylinder 3 misfire. We replaced sparkplugs and ignition coils after the first round of misfires, which fixed it for a few months, had cylinder 3 fail again, swapped the new coil for one of the old ones and I am having issues with the same cylinder again.

I don't know if this is a plug/ignition coil issue, or if I'm trying to fix the wrong part of the problem.

We're at about 101,000mi, I got it at 82,000 and do regular oil changes.

I'm about to swap the coil again to see if that will tide it over, but what else should I be looking into on this now?

2001 Lexus Es300. I was driving home and I was stopped at a red light when the RPMs kept bouncing up and down from 0. It did it a couple times and then it did it a lot faster, then the battery and oil pressure light popped on and I shut the car off. Turned it back on and now its running fine but im worried to drive it. No codes. What could be the issue?

Two years ago, I didn’t even know how to do an oil change. 😭

would this amount of play be concerning. all gears go in smoothly but noticed the input shaft has a little bit of play, i’m also being pretty firm to get this play. also was no fluid in the trans at the time of this recording. let me know if there’s anything i should be concerned with before throwing it in. thank you.

Filmed the best i could while’s keeping my eyes on the road, hear this noise on decel ( especially while braking ) on my passenger side only with my window open. Anythint will help thanks

Long time DIY-er who has worked as a mechanic assistant and has worked on their car multiple times as a hobby.

I’m giving up trying to figure out where this leak is for my AC. I bought the vacuum, refrigerant, Black light, etc and today, not sure if it was me being hungry, the water sprinklers turning on randomly and drenching my work space, or the southern heat, but decided to get it worked on by someone else.

After years of working on my car, replacing my AC over 3 times, I think I’m finally going to the mechanic. It’s a little embarrassing that I’ve given up, but I’m tired.

Totally relate to mechanics who just want a car that runs.

Slight bulge and gap in the tire as in the photo. The tire is 3 years old, only 15k miles. Does it need to be replaced and is it safe to drive on? Thank you all!

I have a 05 Toyota matrix 1zz-fe.
There is a fair amount of cranks case pressure (you can feel it really puffing if you take the oil cap off)
I’ve replaced the pvc valve and tested compression. Factory compression was 210psi and a minimum if 145psi I believe. My lowest was 190 with most at 200.

What else can cause it or what else could I check here?

Was driving down the interstate going 60 when I heard loud noise and truck started shaking violently, pulled it into a hotel parking lot and am waiting for a tow, where do I go from here?

Edit: I mean is it worth fixing

Hi everyone,

I'm looking for some advice regarding a frustrating issue with my 2009 Renault Megane III 1.5 dCi (110 HP, Siemens/Continental fuel system). No warning lights or "Check Injection" messages on the dashboard.

The Symptoms:

• Total loss of throttle from a stop: When trying to accelerate from a standstill, if I press the gas pedal to the floor, absolutely nothing happens. The RPM stays around idle, and the engine feels like it's bogging down.
• Releasing the pedal helps: The car only starts moving and responding if I partially release the gas pedal.
• Jerky RPM drop: When I rev the engine and let off the gas, the RPM doesn't drop smoothly to idle; it drops in a jerky, stuttering way.
• Delay: There is a noticeable 2-3 second delay in throttle response when accelerating.

(Note: I just had the clutch and dual-mass flywheel replaced 2 weeks ago, but this throttle issue started exactly 1 day BEFORE the clutch replacement, so it's likely unrelated).

What I've done/checked so far:

• EGR Valve: I removed the EGR valve and the metal conduit. It was completely clogged with thick, hard carbon. I cleaned it thoroughly, it's mechanically spotless and moves freely now. However, I haven't done a software adaptation/relearn yet. Is it possible the electronic part of the EGR got fried from struggling with the carbon?
• Vacuum Solenoid: Replaced the turbo boost control valve (vacuum solenoid) – no change.
• Brake Switch: I tried pulling the brake pedal up with my foot while accelerating to rule out the brake override system – didn't help.

Could this be a faulty fuel pressure regulator (IMV valve) on the high-pressure pump? Or maybe the anti-shudder valve (throttle body) is broken? Has anyone experienced these exact symptoms?

Any ideas or suggestions for what to check on live diagnostics would be greatly appreciated!

My girl has a 2011 Chevy Malibu LT (2.4 L) and she sent me this video with the car making this noise

I have a 2005 Honda accord that is overheating already replaced the radiator,fans, water pump, and thermostat and is still overheating what else could it be?

​Hey everyone,

​I'm getting ready to change the gear oil on my 2018 Corolla LE 6-speed manual.

​Living in Puerto Rico, it’s almost impossible to find the factory-recommended Toyota 75W (GL-4) fluid locally. Ordering it online with shipping to PR is either ridiculously expensive or restricted.

​I was able to get Red Line MT-90 (75W-90 GL-4).

​Before I pour it in, I wanted to ask:

​Has anyone here used Red Line MT-90 in their 11th-gen / 12th-gen 6-speed manual Corollas?

​Since I live in a hot year-round climate (Puerto Rico), does the slightly thicker 75W-90 cause any notchiness when shifting, or does it feel better than the thin OEM 75W once warmed up?

​Any issues with synchro feel over long-term use?

​Appreciate any advice or personal experience!

Took my car for An alignment and they said my front driver side strut belong to a Honda pilot. I checked what I ordered and I ordered the correct part. I’m gonna have my buddy take a look at the actual part number her installed on my car and make sure it’s the right one. But is it even possible to install a honda pilot strut onto a 2018 Honda civic ext 1.5L?

I have a 2011 Ford Focus. Sometimes when I turn off the engine it'll sound like the engine is still running and sometimes it'll start making that same noise just by opening the doors as well without ever starting up the engine. Does anyone know what this might be?

2016 Toyota aygo cold start I have this knock/slap that disappears after 2-5 minutes, no oil burning, drives fine, tick rises with rpms

Two engine flushes and 4 oil filter changes last 4k miles,

Replaced chain kit tensioner, VVTI gear, cleaned out VVTI solenoid,

There is 0 issues apart from this noise

It’s driving me insane and garage that did chain reported the noise is normal for this engine but it’s so loud on cold start makes me doubt them !!!

The car has 0 issues apart from this tick,

I need opinions please as it’s still under warranty, which has covered chain replacement so far, I’m half tempted to sell it,

Any advice is a god send!