https://www.reddit.com/r/nursing/comments/1w44437/ohthats_where_my_10mm_socket_went/

Slight bulge and gap in the tire as in the photo. The tire is 3 years old, only 15k miles. Does it need to be replaced and is it safe to drive on? Thank you all!

What will I fuck up that I shouldn't fuck up? I'm looking for anything I need to be aware of that isn't completely obvious.

Good morning everyone. I’m not sure if this is the right subreddit, but I’ll give it a shot (apologies if not). I have a 2008 Renault Clio 3 ("Le Iene" edition) and I’m having a problem I can't quite identify. Before heading to a garage and getting ripped off, I wanted to ask if any of you recognize the issue.

I hear a metallic scraping sound, like a bearing that’s lost its lubrication, when I turn the steering wheel while driving (there’s no noise when the car is stationary). I’ve attached a video so you can hear exactly what I mean.

I’ve noticed that if I drive the car after it’s been sitting for a while, it takes some time for the problem to reappear.

Thanks a lot in advance, everyone! ❤️

While jumping right into this, I would like to start off by saying that I’ve been chasing an ongoing issue with my manual 2003 Mach 1 for months and I’m reaching the point where I’m ready to give up on diagnosing it myself and take it to a shop.

For some insight, the car currently has approximately 117,600 miles, a K&N intake, stock manifolds and H-pipe, and Borla ATAK mufflers.

The original recurring code was P0172 (System Too Rich Bank 1). It came back roughly once per month in March, April, May and July. Then in August, instead of P0172, I received P0420 (Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1) twice within five days and only 164 miles. The car is my daily and mainly drive it with highway miles considering a 60 mile round-trip commute, so this is pretty concerning for me.

I’ll attach the freeze-frame reports separately so everyone can see the fuel trims, speeds, RPM, load and fuel-pressure data for themselves.

The main symptoms have been:

- Uneven and slightly shaky idle

- Car sometimes rocks at idle almost like it has very mild cams (very Lumpy Tone)

- Passenger-side exhaust is consistently sounding a bit louder, and bubblier/poppy

- Driver-side exhaust sounds noticeably cleaner/smoother/growly (best I can explain it)

- Occasional pops/backfire around 2,500–3,000rpm when having a little bit of a light heavy foot and switching gears from 1st to 2nd

- Constant popping like popcorn while holding the revs at 2,000–3,000 rpm’s

- Low-rpm acceleration can feel heavy or sluggish

- Occasional difficult restarts after the car sits for approximately 5–30 minutes (found this out by the car struggling to turn on after consistently turning it off and on in a long drive through line)

- Cold starts are usually stronger than hot starts, but can still give me issue when cranking over before starting
General Occasional weak starting

- In the past, the engine occasionally stalled after high-speed driving and throwing it in neutral, or while coasting downhill in neutral

- Fuel economy has been approximately 14–15 mpg, even though MOST of my driving is on the freeway in 5th gear with my stock 3.55 Gearing (I know this because I daily the car lot and consistently top off the Car in gas and measure it EVERY TIME by resetting the trip meter)

- Full tank of premium (15.7 Gallons) Last me 230 miles MAX (Mainly Highway Miles)

- The codes always appear while the engine is fully warm and I’m steadily cruising on the freeway (not while idling in my driveway)

This is everything I’ve done trying to fix or narrow down the problem:

- Installed eight new NGK iridium spark plugs

- Gapped the plugs approximately .050–.053 inch

- Replaced the coils with a complete set of used Edelbrock coils off a 99 Cobra That WAS Working

- Swapped the Bank 1 injectors with used set of Bank 1 injectors from another 2003 Mach 1 (24Lb)

- Installed a new fuel pump

- Installed a new fuel filter

- Replaced all four O₂ sensors with new sensors (NTK)
drove around a bit got the code again Swapped the upstream O₂ sensors left-to-right

- Also moved the other O₂ sensors left-to-right during diagnosis

- The problem continued to remain associated with Bank 1

- Swapped the CCRM with one from another 2003 Mach 1

- Cleaned the original IAC then noticed no change also with my idling issue so I ended up, replacing the IAC with a used Lincoln Mark VIII IAC I got from the Junkyard

- Cleaned the MAF using proper MAF cleaner

- Used fuel-system treatment TWICE! (3 month Gap between uses)

- Sprayed brake cleaner around the intake manifold looking for a vacuum leak (Did not notice an obvious idle change during the brake-cleaner test)

- Replaced the passenger-side radio noise suppressor (advice from a friend)

- recently swapped in the MAF from other other 2003 Mach 1 (That WORKS)

The most recent MAF swap happened after the second P0420 just yesterday (August 31st), so I don’t have enough driving time yet to know whether it changed anything, but then again, I’m not sure if it will because if it really was the MAF, then it would be affecting both banks, but we will have to see, it’s more of a why not I guess. But for the most part it has still sounds and feels the same at idle.

The plugs greatly improved the original weakness of power and sluggish starts and cleaning/replacing the IAC from the Lincoln MKVlll helped the stalling, but the uneven idle noise from the passenger-side exhaust end is still noticeably different with occasional popping more consistent condensation, and smoke on cold starts from that side (Bank 1)

I own a set of BBK long-tube headers and a matching BBK catted X-pipe, but I have not installed them yet. I don’t want to install new catalytic converters and possibly damage them if the engine is still running super rich.

At this point I really don’t know what else it could possibly be besides a vacuum leak or some sort maybe but considering that this car is my daily and deeply need to find out what’s wrong with it, I’m willing to spend some money (Nothing Crazy) for a genuinely deep diagnosis from a shop. I don’t want to pay someone just to scan the codes and recommend a MAF or catalytic converter based on the code description. I want somebody to test the fuel pressure mechanically, check pressure after shutdown, inspect the EVAP purge system, evaluate the MAF data, test the injectors and compare the Bank 1 O₂ signals before and after or generally just whatever the procedure might be to crack down on this shit that’s making me go insane!

I would still 110% rather diagnose and repair it myself if possible. I’ve considered buying a smoke machine and compression tester, especially because I can use those tools again. However, I don’t want to keep spending money on tools or parts that won’t actually narrow this problem down.

Based on these symptoms and everything already replaced or swapped:

- Would buying a smoke machine meaningfully help with this specific problem?

- Is a full compression test justifiable?

- What should I test next before paying a shop?

- If I take it in, what specific tests should I require for a proper diagnosis? And how much am I looking at$?

- Could the original rich-running/misfire condition have damaged the Bank 1 catalytic converter and caused the two recent P0420 codes. And how badly do I need to get this fixed before anything else gets fucked up?

- Is there anything else to the 2003–2004 Mach 1 or Ford fuel systems that commonly causes this combination of symptoms?

I’m attaching all six freeze-frame reports along with the list of work completed. I’m looking for a proper direction. The car still runs strong (from what I know) but I’ve always been wanting to overthink everything and not ignore a problem before it turns more severe (talking from experience) so I’m a bit paranoid and just want to fix it as soon as possible so I can make sure that my Mach is not only being as efficient as it possibly can but at its best potential.

I’ve put a lot of time, effort and money into trying to solve this, and I’m honestly reaching the point where I don’t know what else to do. I really love this car and I’m willing to keep it for the long run. I’ve made it to be everything that I’ve ever wanted and I’ve been trying so hard to keep it running correctly, please help me and keeping my baby alive and healthy. I’m more than willing to communicate about any questions or concerns!

Thank you all!

Long time DIY-er who has worked as a mechanic assistant and has worked on their car multiple times as a hobby.

I’m giving up trying to figure out where this leak is for my AC. I bought the vacuum, refrigerant, Black light, etc and today, not sure if it was me being hungry, the water sprinklers turning on randomly and drenching my work space, or the southern heat, but decided to get it worked on by someone else.

After years of working on my car, replacing my AC over 3 times, I think I’m finally going to the mechanic. It’s a little embarrassing that I’ve given up, but I’m tired.

Totally relate to mechanics who just want a car that runs.

Was driving down the interstate going 60 when I heard loud noise and truck started shaking violently, pulled it into a hotel parking lot and am waiting for a tow, where do I go from here?

Edit: I mean is it worth fixing

My girl has a 2011 Chevy Malibu LT (2.4 L) and she sent me this video with the car making this noise

What is this noise??

I have taken my car to 3 different mechanics and no one can seem to tell me what this noise is or they don’t hear it on test drives. It most frequently happens when driving 35 to 55 mph and when coasting. Noise goes away when braking. Seems to appear most often on bumpy roads/speed bumps. Just put new guide pins in, pads and rotors are all less than 6 months old, and michelin tires only have 30k miles on them and are wearing evenly. Tires have been balanced and alignment is good. I appreciate any ideas or thoughts. TYIA

ETA: I believe it’s a 2.5L turbo

Looking for some advice. My prius has 185k miles and it was having rough starts that would even out after about 5 seconds. After a week it threw a code for a cylinder 2 misfire, i noticed i had lost anout half the coolant in the reservoir as well. I replaced the spark plugs and ignition coils and the code went away. I also refilled my coolant. It started fine, drove smoother, better mpg. However after 2 weeks it shook bad at start up then the code came back. I've had it sitting for a couple of weeks until I could run a boroscope in. I noticed that it also lost about an inch of coolant from the reservoir. I dont see any obvious leaks under the vehicle. I was wondering if anyone could give me an idea of what may be going on. Sorry the photos aren't super clear.

Hey all,

My wife drives a 2011 Hyundai Sonata(auto, 285,000km), engine replaced in 2017 with a used one. It's on it's last legs now, but I am trying to keep it going as long as possible.

She went to get an oil change without prior issues. Once she turned it on after the oil change, the CEL started flashing and the tech used his scanner and pulled a couple o2 and knock sensor codes.

He tried to clear them so she could go, but they did not clear and she drove home(about 3km). Car made it home okay, but she has anxiety with car stuff and I can't get a full picture of what happened. I am trying to save some money here, can anyone provide me with suggestions on what this could be, or anything I can try before I take it in?

It starts fine, no weird noises. I checked the oil cap, gas cap etc, but I can't get under to see if they spilled oil on a sensor.

I know this is probably a dumb question but I want to go have a go at it before I spend any more money on it. Thanks in advance

Recently bought a CVT (auto) 2012 2.0i premium impreza wagon. on the way home the radiator blew out. Went to Oreillys for a replacement, the replacement has two fittings for trans cooling lines. the broken radiator i removed does not have those fittings. After searching around the transmission i could not find any plugged cooling lines coming from the trans. Does this car have a separate cooling system for the trans? Did the previous owner really just have the trans uncooled? Any advice/ support would go a long way im seriously stuck. my ai is giving me all sorts of opposing answers. thanks.

Hi I have been looking for the canister purge valve for a while and so far I was told it’s under the brake reservoir area and it requires me to remove the battery here’s the thing the brake reservoir is on my passenger side and my battery is on my driver side 🤦‍♂️ I found a video showing where the tube leading to it is but unfortunately I can’t distinguish where the valve is I also cannot distinguish how I would go about putting a new one in so now I’m forced to either find someone smart enough to find it and I’m unsure if my photos will help in any way due to the fact everyone on the matter is talking about the 3.0l and not the 3.7l unfortunately it appears it’s below the dash tucked below the firewall metal portion their is one video of the guy finding the tube but he doesn’t at any point show how you access the purge control valve so far the most I’ve been able to do is find the tube that leads to it, I can stick an endoscope in and to my surprise it’s under that metal firewall tucked in their but I can’t for the life of me find it. Unfortunately everyone who’s a subject master in this subject doesn’t know either this appears to be the sort of job you have to take apart the entire undercarriage just to install this $20 part and asking ai doesn’t work ai doesn’t appear to know either because it’s going off the more popular 3.0 model

I have a 2009 Lexus GX 470 with 212k miles and recently got a P0420 code. A shop told me I need a new catalytic converter and said I would probably fail emissions when the time comes.
I went and got my emissions test today and passed. My numbers were:
HC: 0.0651 g/mi, limit 0.6000
CO: 1.0579 g/mi, limit 15.0000
NOx: 0.1019 g/mi, limit 1.5000
So I was well under the limit on everything.
My question is, does how far under the emissions limit you are tell you anything about how healthy or worn out the catalytic converter is?
Basically, can a catalytic converter be partially degraded enough to trigger P0420 but still produce numbers this good and pass emissions?
The cats are original, so I’m trying to figure out if I should actually replace the Bank 1 catalytic converter or have the O2/A/F sensors and catalyst efficiency properly diagnosed first.
Anyone with experience with GX 470s or Toyota/Lexus emissions diagnostics have any thoughts?

Howdy y'all,
I've had some struggles this year on this vehicle. Oil consumption (a little more than 1qt/1000mi), and a reoccurring cylinder 3 misfire. We replaced sparkplugs and ignition coils after the first round of misfires, which fixed it for a few months, had cylinder 3 fail again, swapped the new coil for one of the old ones and I am having issues with the same cylinder again.

I don't know if this is a plug/ignition coil issue, or if I'm trying to fix the wrong part of the problem.

We're at about 101,000mi, I got it at 82,000 and do regular oil changes.

I'm about to swap the coil again to see if that will tide it over, but what else should I be looking into on this now?

2001 Lexus Es300. I was driving home and I was stopped at a red light when the RPMs kept bouncing up and down from 0. It did it a couple times and then it did it a lot faster, then the battery and oil pressure light popped on and I shut the car off. Turned it back on and now its running fine but im worried to drive it. No codes. What could be the issue?

Two years ago, I didn’t even know how to do an oil change. 😭

would this amount of play be concerning. all gears go in smoothly but noticed the input shaft has a little bit of play, i’m also being pretty firm to get this play. also was no fluid in the trans at the time of this recording. let me know if there’s anything i should be concerned with before throwing it in. thank you.

Filmed the best i could while’s keeping my eyes on the road, hear this noise on decel ( especially while braking ) on my passenger side only with my window open. Anythint will help thanks

I have a 05 Toyota matrix 1zz-fe.
There is a fair amount of cranks case pressure (you can feel it really puffing if you take the oil cap off)
I’ve replaced the pvc valve and tested compression. Factory compression was 210psi and a minimum if 145psi I believe. My lowest was 190 with most at 200.

What else can cause it or what else could I check here?

Hi everyone,

I'm looking for some advice regarding a frustrating issue with my 2009 Renault Megane III 1.5 dCi (110 HP, Siemens/Continental fuel system). No warning lights or "Check Injection" messages on the dashboard.

The Symptoms:

• Total loss of throttle from a stop: When trying to accelerate from a standstill, if I press the gas pedal to the floor, absolutely nothing happens. The RPM stays around idle, and the engine feels like it's bogging down.
• Releasing the pedal helps: The car only starts moving and responding if I partially release the gas pedal.
• Jerky RPM drop: When I rev the engine and let off the gas, the RPM doesn't drop smoothly to idle; it drops in a jerky, stuttering way.
• Delay: There is a noticeable 2-3 second delay in throttle response when accelerating.

(Note: I just had the clutch and dual-mass flywheel replaced 2 weeks ago, but this throttle issue started exactly 1 day BEFORE the clutch replacement, so it's likely unrelated).

What I've done/checked so far:

• EGR Valve: I removed the EGR valve and the metal conduit. It was completely clogged with thick, hard carbon. I cleaned it thoroughly, it's mechanically spotless and moves freely now. However, I haven't done a software adaptation/relearn yet. Is it possible the electronic part of the EGR got fried from struggling with the carbon?
• Vacuum Solenoid: Replaced the turbo boost control valve (vacuum solenoid) – no change.
• Brake Switch: I tried pulling the brake pedal up with my foot while accelerating to rule out the brake override system – didn't help.

Could this be a faulty fuel pressure regulator (IMV valve) on the high-pressure pump? Or maybe the anti-shudder valve (throttle body) is broken? Has anyone experienced these exact symptoms?

Any ideas or suggestions for what to check on live diagnostics would be greatly appreciated!

I have a 2005 Honda accord that is overheating already replaced the radiator,fans, water pump, and thermostat and is still overheating what else could it be?

​Hey everyone,

​I'm getting ready to change the gear oil on my 2018 Corolla LE 6-speed manual.

​Living in Puerto Rico, it’s almost impossible to find the factory-recommended Toyota 75W (GL-4) fluid locally. Ordering it online with shipping to PR is either ridiculously expensive or restricted.

​I was able to get Red Line MT-90 (75W-90 GL-4).

​Before I pour it in, I wanted to ask:

​Has anyone here used Red Line MT-90 in their 11th-gen / 12th-gen 6-speed manual Corollas?

​Since I live in a hot year-round climate (Puerto Rico), does the slightly thicker 75W-90 cause any notchiness when shifting, or does it feel better than the thin OEM 75W once warmed up?

​Any issues with synchro feel over long-term use?

​Appreciate any advice or personal experience!

Took my car for An alignment and they said my front driver side strut belong to a Honda pilot. I checked what I ordered and I ordered the correct part. I’m gonna have my buddy take a look at the actual part number her installed on my car and make sure it’s the right one. But is it even possible to install a honda pilot strut onto a 2018 Honda civic ext 1.5L?