r/AdvancedKnitting • u/michiopurl • 1d ago
Tech Questions Modifying circular yoke sweater for men's shoulders?
I'm planning on starting work on this "October day sweater", which has a gorgeous lace leaf motif in a bottom-up circular yoke construction. The problem is the pattern is written for women's proportions, and I have broader shoulders and no bust. I know that circular yoke sweaters can be fiddly to get the fit right, and as I haven't made anything with this sort of construction yet I want to be cautious to make sure it will fit (especially because between knitting an admittedly simple lace motif and using mohair, I'm really not looking forward to frogging it if I have any sizing/fit issues).
Without giving away too much info about this paid pattern, the relevant stuff about the construction is:
- Overall, it's knit bottom up, starting as three straight tubes with no shaping and then the underarm stitches are put on scrap yarn as it is joined into one tube. Then it's knit straight for a little bit and then you start on decreases and short rows to shape the shoulders into the neckline.
- When the sleeves and body are joined together, it is symmetrical and there is the same amount of stitches for the front body as the back.
- It uses two simple square charts for the lace, just repeating one chart all the way across the body and sleeves and then the other. The charts are mirror images of each other, to make the leaves tile nicely.
- Once you join the body into the sleeves, you done one full repeat of one chart to knit it straight for a little bit, then one repeat of a modified version of the second chart with extra decreases in it, to make the chart be wedge-shaped instead of square to achieve the circular yoke shaping.
- Finally there are some short rows and a bit more circular yoke shaping.
My concern is that the original pattern probably doesn't make allowances for broader shoulders, so I'll need to modify it. I don't have a great understanding of circular yoke sweaters so far, but I'm planning on changing it by simply adding one extra repeat of the original lace chart after joining the sleeves to the body, to effectively add a couple inches of knitting it straight before starting the yoke shaping. I've also seen recommendations online about having the back body be wider than the front when joining the sleeves to the body (that is, moving the sleeves closer towards the front), but I'm not sure I want to do that with this pattern because it'd make the lace charts not line up so I'd need to modify the lace as well.
As a really simple illustration, the pattern as written makes something like this:
/––––––\
|––––––|
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(with the first line being the circular yoke, the second line being the straight tube section right after it, and the third and fourth lines being the body and sleeves), and I'm thinking of modifying it to be like this:
/––––––\
|––––––|
|––––––|
|-|––|-|
|-|––|-|
What do you all think? Is this a good plan or should I think it through a bit more or make more complicated changes? Or just say screw it and do way more positive ease than the pattern calls for?