i am currently working on the ryobi battery charger, the plug box part that connects to the wall was dropped, i fixed a couple traces but one piece of the fork has a lot of melted plastic on it, I'm wondering how do i remove the plastic from it (pic 4).

If not the case then on pics 5 - 7 i was wondering if i could take a bit of the 10A 125V cord to replace it as a plug that way its easier to test/use if it works properly, i do have a couple other power cords around with different ratings.

Hello! I am currently looking for tools that i can use to start my journey in repairing electronics. I will mainly use the tools to repair broken phones and I was thinking I need a multimeter and a soldering iron. I already own a set of precision bits (attached photo) that I bought on a very thin budget. I am asking you guys if there is anything else I would need beside what I have mentioned and I would be grateful if you could give me a budget friendly recommendation(considering that these would be my first and also main tools). Thank you!

Bought an old music centre and decided to clean the sliders. But I can’t disconnect the ribbon cables since they’re glued to the board. Is there anything I can do or is this a lost cause?

My Westinghouse tv started looking like this out of no where, no falls or bumps or anything. Is it cooked or can I save it?

Edit: the zebra print was from the previous scene, it holds on to some parts of the image for a bit after sudden transitions

I have a Kenneth Cole KCI00206 smart watch that I left uncharged for months and can no longer get it to charge.

- I have tried charging it for hours utilizing various amp rated usb a power blocks attached to the factory magnetic charging cable.

- I have cleaned the watch’s magnetic charging contacts and the charger’s contacts with isopropyl alcohol.

- I have tried cycling it charging for 5-10 mins then removing power for a bit to try and jumpstart the battery.

At this point I think the battery may be dead but I’m having trouble opening the watch to try and replace the battery. I removed the 4 screws on the back but there is no pry area and it is not a twist off back. Is it possible it’s glued? Any tips on removing the backing or other charging ideas?

Thanks.

The lens won't move not even when I try to move it by hand and the mechanism is stuck in one position. There is a lens error on the screen, no image, and no sound. Please help me find instructions on how to disassemble the lens, and share your experience repairing one. I would be very grateful

Тhank you.

I’m a beginner at this, I started a week ago. I am working on two controllers for practice and having problems. No matter what guide I look at I’m having a tough time removing the motor and the joystick out.

I have an old ps4 here the hard drive has some damage to the connection area, I’m not trying to force it to go in, in the last photo you can see how far it goes before stopping, Is there anyway to fix this? Or just get a new drive?

Truck operations remote control took a hit and stopped working. I can't see any physical, apparent damage

A customer ran over(!) the remote control i use for operating the winch, extending flatbed, etc on my vehicle transport truck.

It is a rugged outdoors remote and doesnt have any apparent damage, but it doesn't work now.

I tried doing the basics; checking everything visually, measuring power/batteries, contact points etc. but to no effect

It seems to be dead. No green indicator light when pressing "Start" etc.

Can anyone see something i dont?

Any suggestions or help appreciated

Hello all,

I’m trying to repair the backlight on an old fish finder LCD. The northstar explorer 657, I just boat an old boat and the first time I use it the fish finder broke...

The LCD itself appears to be working. If I shine a flashlight very close to the screen, I can see the text/graphics.

The original backlight uses CCFL tubes around the light guide/diffuser, as shown in the photos.

I haven’t diagnosed the exact fault though. I don’t have a CCFL tester, so I don’t know if the problem is:

- the CCFL tubes,

- the inverter/CCFL driver,

- a connector/wiring issue,

- or something else in the backlight circuit.

I’m also not sure how to safely test the inverter.

Instead of troubleshooting the original system, I’m considering bypassing the CCFL backlight completely and installing LEDs around/along the existing light guide.

My idea is to power the LEDs independently from a small USB power bank and route the cable outside through one of the existing screw holes, without modifying the fish finder’s main electronics.

Would there be any problem doing this regardless of whether the original fault is the CCFL tubes, inverter, connector, or something else? Could I simply leave the original CCFL/inverter system disconnected or unused?

I was also thinking about adding a small dimmer in case the LEDs are too bright or create visible hotspots/lines through the diffuser, but dimming is not essential if I can choose the right LEDs and brightness.

What type of LED strip/LEDs would you recommend for something like this?

Photos attached showing the LCD, CCFL tubes and light guide. I am not a professional.

Thank you.

Acer Chromebook R753T, screen is doing this. I replaced the video cable, yet this is still happening. Anyone knows why?

Hi guys!

I am currently repairing the power supply of my Yamaha Electone B-75 organ and need help selecting a modern replacement for the power regulator transistor.

The original transistor is a 2SA490, but they are no longer manufactured and sourcing a second hand replacement is not really feasible for me. I have two potential replacements but i thought it would be best to ask more experienced people here before i select the replacement. I have attached an image of the circuit diagram and the original transistor aswell as linking the relevant datasheets. All help will be greatly appreciated :)

Original 2SA490:

https://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/pdf/91464/TOSHIBA/2SA490.html

The first replacement is the TIP32C:

https://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/pdf/556838/STMICROELECTRONICS/TIP32C.html

The second is the BD242C:

https://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/pdf/866463/ISC/BD242C.html

for some reason it won't work when it's not connected to the mouse i charged it reset it and everything and it still won't work, i need a fix!!

A friend uses several Blumat Digital sensors in his garden. While his older units lasted years, a few new ones failed after just two weeks. The manufacturer replaced them, and he gave me the defective units to see if they could be fixed.

Initially, I assumed it was just a dead battery, but replacing it didn't work. Here is how the repair went:

1. Disassembly & Diagnosis

I opened the outer housing by removing the 3 back screws.

Even with a fresh battery, the display remained completely blank. I removed the remaining 4 screws on the inner frame to access the circuit board.

2. Identifying the Defective Part

Lifting the foam cover on the PCB revealed a blown SMD component. It turned out to be a failed capacitor. A standard 104 ceramic capacitor (100nF) works as a suitable replacement (a least that's what Ai said).

I picked up a few at a local electronics shop for a couple of Euros.

3. Repair

1. Scraped off the protective coating around the damaged SMD component and desoldered it.
2. Traced the circuit with a multimeter to verify the connections.
3. The original traces tied directly to GND and RST, providing solid pads to solder the new through-hole ceramic capacitor into place.

Result

After reassembling the housing and reinserting the battery, the screen turned back on immediately.

If you have a broken Blumat Digital unit with a blank screen, it might just be this capacitor rather than a total loss. A fix is also a lot cheaper than a new unit (50 cents vs 45€)

TL;DR: Blumat sensor died after 2 weeks due to a blown SMD capacitor. Replaced it with a 100nF (104) ceramic capacitor and it works again.

I have a 20ish year old La-Z-Boy recliner with massage features that is no longer working properly. I can occasionally get the motors to turn on, but can't control it with the remote. As it is now, the lights on the remote flash when power is connected but then becomes unresponsive. I have tested the wires/pins on the board with a multimeter and the voltage and continuity seems to be working as expected (I think, I'm new to this). I'm not really sure what to look at next.

I have a rotrics dexarm

It has been sitting collecting dust for few years and I have decided to use it today.

While I was trying turn on the lazer module the module started smoking and I thought that it was burnt

So I want to fix it and I cant find a teardown not a replacement part of the item can some one help me fix this

Like if they have a tear down so I can figure out how to fix it

Does anyone have any knowledge on these players or know how to fix?

My old mp3 kicked the bucket i need either help repairing it or a guy/girl who knows how to, i am able to ship it and pay the fee online if anyone has a reputable place...i know its a long shot but i dont wanna lose this device.