(Sound on!)
4K YT version here
45 y/o, born in TW, moved to the US as a toddler. Like most TW diaspora, I had not traveled the eastern coast as much (if at all; can't recall!). I had some time between jobs this summer and decided to take a last minute trip to TW, rented a car, and drove down and up the east coast. It was a literal last minute trip; saw the tickets on a Friday and landed in TW the next Tuesday 🤣. I figured that if I didn't do this trip now, I may not be able to do it again until I'm 60+!
(Special shoutout to my wife who couldn't come but said that I shouldn't not go just because she couldn't go)
This is my first time traveling the east coast and I covered as much as reasonably possible (given the weather situation over the first week and the threat of Saudel). I could have easily used up another week and gave up on many, many hikes and exploration that I wanted to do along the east coast.
This is a short video of some of the highlights (working on cutting a longer one).
Lots of great hikes, amazing coastlines, and just breathtaking views!
AMA if you are interested in doing a similar trip; happy to share my tips, learnings, and answer any questions for folks that have wanted to do this but have doubts about how to pull it off, where to go, what to see!
Quick takes
The drive: ~6 hours straight shot from Nangang on the east side of Taipei to Taitung. We stopped for lunch and along a few spots along the way so all-in-all maybe almost 8h transit time by car, but worth it to be able to pop out along the random viewpoints along the coast. The drive is just spectacular with the clouds hanging over the ever-present mountains along the entire route. Every morning I was still in awe of the view of the cloud capped mountains.
Taroko: almost all trails are possibly permanently closed (according to one lady at the welcome center). As far as I could see, there was no work being done on the trails; all work was focused on the roadway and adding cover for some key sections. The railing hasn't even been fully replaced. The drive was still spectacular, but you should get in as early as possible (6:30) since entry and exit are timed via checkpoints. This is one of the scariest drives I've ever done; even scarier than Pike's Peak because the loose rocks and damaged infrastructure remind you that fate is not in your own hands here.
Here is the timetable for the Taroko checkpoints: https://imgur.com/a/YnhTuTt. How to read it: 6:30 - 8:00 is when you can actively drive into or out of the park. It's only one lane each way (some parts only one lane total) and there's a LOT of construction. So they fully close the roads for a few hours at a time each day. I drove in around 7 AM and then around 9:50 AM, I had to wait in an exit line or else I'd miss the 10:00 - 10:05 exit window and be stuck until 12. 3 hours inside the park seems about right to me. There is a longer hike right behind the visitor center that is accessible outside of the checkpoint.
Taitung: A nice little city; worth the drive down. Beautiful beaches and coastline along the way.
Hualien: A better "base" since 1-2 hours drive each day in either direction can take you to a lot of interesting sights. Two routes to explore: coast and valley, both with interesting sights to visit!
Jiaoxi: just north of Yilan, another good base for the north eastern coast. The geography of the coast along the northeast is totally different from the south east coast and worth the visit! Jiaoxi is very close to Taipei and has plenty of hot springs hotels. Makes access to the northeast coast points much more convenient.
Surfing: my daughter is interested in surfing so I did some scouting and asked around about the seasons for both surfing and diving. May - September are the peak seasons. The winter and spring months see bigger waves. Diving completely shuts down; surfing shops are still open, but generally cater to intermediate and advanced surfers in these months. Both said the water is cold and requires a wet suit.
Dive shops recommended Xiaoliuqiu instead for late spring.
Humidity: unlike anything I've experienced in a long time 😅. Haven't been in Taiwan in the summer since my teens; totally forgot how humid summer is. Literally every day was just soaked in sweat from hiking. Walk 100ft: shirt is wet. Sit down and eat: shirt is soaked. (Not sure how folks are eating noodle soups in 32c!) Gave up caring about it and just lived with being soaked. Bring a reusable water bottle (to cut down on plastic waste) and stay hydrated! Don't go hiking without bringing sufficient water with you; definitely had moments of regret bringing only one bottle of water!
Reminds me of...: Azores! I've visited both Terceira and Sao Miguel in the Azores and wow, it's uncanny how similar these two are. But I have to say: I prefer the way the Portuguese have their beaches set up: fresh water rinse stations at every beach, public restrooms for changing, natural pools, and lots of man-made jump points even in rocky beaches.
Tracking weather: I was in utter disbelief at some of the rain estimates for some days where it was several inches of rain. I found that most western forecasters mostly had it wrong (except for 2 days when it was literally buckets). Windy.com and Zoom Earth were the best resources and I found Windy GFS representative of my observed weather conditions for the day even as far as 3 days out.
Shoes: I regret, regret not bringing my Crocs because there's just no way to get around in the rain without getting your feet absolutely soaked and having a bad time. For summer rainy season: bring Crocs or hiking sandals and accept that your feet will get wet AF if it rains.