Just bought a used sl and rd m8000 off fb but just realized that the shifter doesn’t go below 8th. From the videos they just blast wd 40 into the lube port which I think this has but I’ve also heard people saying to never use wd 40 on your bike, any help would be appreciated. Did only buy both of these for 40 together so not so bummed but I’d like to fix the shifter somehow.

I use the same tyres that came with.the bike and this happened :(

My commuter bicycle is a Specialized Sirrus X 2.0 with 40mm tires (as in the picture). It doesn't feel nearly as smooth and fast as my Scott Spark mountainbike when I pedal. The Scott Spark has 2.4" knobby tires and I'm surprised it's not the other way around.

I have had the wheel hubs on the Specialized serviced just recently and the drive chain is lubed and not particularly dirty.

When I accelerate the commuter it feels kinda heavy. The two bikes weigh about the same 15kg. Where could this resistance or friction be located if not in the wheel hubs?

The commuter stands under a roof outside and I keep the MTB inside, I live near the coast.

I bought this decathlon 3-8 for my 3-6 (I think) bike, For now I've cut like 3 links with chain breaker and it's still saggy, I think it's one cog longer than the original, I didn't cut it exactly the same just in case if I screwed up but it's WAY saggy even if I put the chain on top of the bike cogs, did I route the chain properly? because the video tutorials kind of suck, I wasn't sure if I should put the chain through the front metal membrane for example but it moves when I switch gears on the left so I guess I should but it looks sketchy as fuck. Can anyone help me? I'm struggling with this chain a month now..

I've set the gears to L - 1. The chain jumps while I cycle and the resistance disappears, not sure if it's just that one cog or the routing.

Edit. Solved, the drawing on my picture helped me the most, in the videos it looks different imho

Hey everyone

So i got my first real roadbike a month and a half ago which is a canyon aeroad CF SLX 7 di2 2027 model, since then i have had 5 punctures all been due to something getting stuck in the tyre and all being on the rear tyre, i havent had any pinch flats. I am riding on Conti aero 111 26mm on the front and a GP 5000 S TR 28mm on the rear. I am a quite heavy rider being 192 cm tall and weighing 96kg. Is it common to experience this many punctures and would tubeless solve my issues as i am quite annoyed by having to fix so many roadside punctures.

Thanks in advance (just got home after puncturing yet again:(( )

I recently got a refurbished smart trainer and tried mounting my bike on it and noticed play on the connection. The trainer and my bike both uses a quick release skewers.

The trainer skewer is shown on the vid, and even after screwing it tightly, there is still play. Same results happen even if I replace the trainer skewer with the skewer on my bike.

Edit: I found the washer that came with it! Thanks!

So I am replacing the cabels and cabel housings on my bike. I haven't done this before. I wanted to ask since the old cabel is exposed part way what would stop me from just adding an extra housing segment ? Is it a bad idea or would that be fine

Hey! I am trying to fix my fork. It’s loose. I can see the bearing. There are cables running through it.
All the screws are screwed to tork including the one going down from the top. But I feel like the cap where the cables enter is not correctly on. But I can’t seem to get it on correctly…

Any ideas?

On a scale of 1 to immediate non negotiable replacement, how toast is this fork?

Can it wait a few weeks of light city commute?

It's been in a crash but the evenness of the bend in the fork and the relative good condition of the wheel make me doubt, is it that bent or are some designs slightly curbed like this?

Rode it home from a friend crashing it, felt safeish but the rubbing brakes made it hard to diagnose while riding.

My LBS had me replace my pulley wheels to try and solve a drivetrain issue (which didn’t solve it and mostly because my chain cassette and even chainrings were worn off)... Now that I have these old pulley wheels put out and cleaned, they look like they don't have any issues and I can even put these back on (or use them later). Am I wrong?

Is my cassette still in good condition? I have the feeling that it isn’t. It has around 6,000 km on it now and has been making very loud noises for the last 500 km or so. The entire drivetrain is very noisy. It’s a mechanical rattling sound.
I’ve already replaced the front chainring, replaced the pulley wheels, and I wax my chains. I have two chains and alternate between them, rewaxing each one after around 600 km. I also don’t ride in wet or muddy conditions.
Do I need to replace it now? Been thinking to swap to XX casette.

X0 Casette
X0 Derailleur
GX Chains (replace them after 2000km each)
Rival shifters + cranks

I know this is a sub about bike repairs, I’m making a new addition to my bike, so I hope this falls into the scope of the subreddit (sorry if not).

I’m completely new to bikes and just got my first one as an adult back in May. I bought a pannier rack to go on the back and it seemed a bit narrow on my frame, so after lurking here for a bit I decided to bend the silver metal parts that bolt into the frame to give the brakes some extra clearance. I don’t believe there’s anything now in the way of the brakes, or anything that could damage them, but I wanted to ask - does this pannier rack setup look correct? Since I’ve never had a bike before, I’m not sure if there’s anything touching the brake mechanisms that shouldn’t be, and the pannier support bar is flush against some parts of the brakes/frame. When I engage the rear brake, the brake pad is still clamping onto the disc instantly and applying force to slow the bike down, so the actual brake seems to be working okay.

Sorry if this seems like a very simple question, I’m really new to bike ownership and this is the first hardware I’ve ever installed, so I’m scared to damage the bike/do something incorrectly 🤦🏼‍♂️ any feedback is appreciated!

I was servicing my bike today. When I stood the bike upside down, I noticed the plastic cover on the rear derailleur housing was slightly loose.

Why did this happen? Is this normal?

I am sorry for making a second post in two days. I found another good deal on a titanium frame but it also looks kinda suspicious on the photo. The owner says that he knows nothing about this frame. I have some questions: 1) what is this hole on the frame? 2) does this welding looks like it was broken and welded after? 3) how old do you think it is based on it's geometry? 4) what does these numbers on the bottom bracket mean?

The blue part got moved up and it no longer turns.

Any idea how to fix it?

Just bought these and was adjusting the cleat and as I was tightening the screws. One of them was probably over torqued. It feels secure but would it be an issue to just leave it like that? If I try to tighten it further it just rotates. Not sure what the wording/terms are sorry for my terrible explanation.

I bought these Elite carbon gravel wheels from AliExpress quite a while ago, and at the time I probably didn’t notice that they came with a Shimano ROAD HG freehub.
My bike has a Shimano GRX RX820 1x12 groupset. My DT Swiss wheelset uses a Micro Spline freehub with a Shimano 12 speed cassette, so that cassette does not fit the Elite wheel.
I want to keep both wheelsets complete, each with its own cassette, because I want to use different tire widths depending on the ride.
So I see two possible options:
Replace the Elite HG freehub body with a compatible Micro Spline freehub body, then use another Shimano 12 speed cassette.
Keep the current HG freehub and use a different brand 12 speed cassette that fits HG, but still works properly with the Shimano GRX RX820 1x12 drivetrain.
Is either option possible? And if I keep the HG freehub, which cassette brands/models would you recommend for good shifting compatibility with GRX 12 speed?
Photos attached. Thanks!
Btw i know there is too much grease on the free hub, so dont worry I removed a lot of it ;)

Tubeless newbie here! My rear wheel has been leaking sealant from the tire/rim interface during rides, but has been holding sufficient air despite that - until today, where it went flat. No significant air loss overnight when sitting still. Took the tire off and inspected rim tape (came with the wheels). In several places, the tape is 1-2 mm from the side wall next to the bead bed, and I wonder if that has caused the issue. Tire bead appeared to be seated. I would be really interested to hear what you guys think.

Tire: GP5000 S TR 28 mm

Tape: DT Swiss 25 mm

Sealant: Silca Ultimate w Injectable Fiber Foam

Hallo,

Folgendes ich habe mir im Internet Shimano-105-Scheibenbremse BR-R7170 mit ST-R7120 2x11 gekauft. Jetzt muss ich mich an die Montage machen. Prinzipiell weiß ich wie das geht. Die Bremsschläuche sind an den Sattel vormontiert. In der losen Seite sitzt ein Verbindungseinsatz. Dieser ist allerding abgedichtet. Somit würde die bremse ja kaum funktionieren wenn das öl nicht durch kommt oder?

Kennt jemand dieses Problem und was soll ich machen.

Danke und beste Grüße

Hey guys recently picked up this crankset with some surface rust, maybe you guys have some tricks or tips how I can remove the rust??

Edit: sorted 🤙

1x10 parts bin group set that should all align and feels like it wants to shift nicely but derailleur is doing some funny business and chain is a bit slack. What do I adjust? Should the thing in the last picture sort me out?

Hey all,

I recently moved into a new apartment and there's a storage-like area outside the front door. My roommate and I swapped out the locks on the door and I can fit my bike into it like so. Is that going to be okay to store it long term? I use it about once or twice a week, but will likely use it more often after I finish tuning it up.

I'm worried that having the handlebars turned all the way inwards like that won't be great for the stem or head tube. Both wheels are quick release.