On a scale of 1 to immediate non negotiable replacement, how toast is this fork?

Can it wait a few weeks of light city commute?

It's been in a crash but the evenness of the bend in the fork and the relative good condition of the wheel make me doubt, is it that bent or are some designs slightly curbed like this?

Rode it home from a friend crashing it, felt safeish but the rubbing brakes made it hard to diagnose while riding.

I bought these Elite carbon gravel wheels from AliExpress quite a while ago, and at the time I probably didn’t notice that they came with a Shimano ROAD HG freehub.
My bike has a Shimano GRX RX820 1x12 groupset. My DT Swiss wheelset uses a Micro Spline freehub with a Shimano 12 speed cassette, so that cassette does not fit the Elite wheel.
I want to keep both wheelsets complete, each with its own cassette, because I want to use different tire widths depending on the ride.
So I see two possible options:
Replace the Elite HG freehub body with a compatible Micro Spline freehub body, then use another Shimano 12 speed cassette.
Keep the current HG freehub and use a different brand 12 speed cassette that fits HG, but still works properly with the Shimano GRX RX820 1x12 drivetrain.
Is either option possible? And if I keep the HG freehub, which cassette brands/models would you recommend for good shifting compatibility with GRX 12 speed?
Photos attached. Thanks!
Btw i know there is too much grease on the free hub, so dont worry I removed a lot of it ;)

I’d like to press a few headsets in every now and then then. What’s my best option? Amazon/temu special, DIY press, board and mallet? Don’t want junk, but don’t need it to go to theoretical grandchildren.

I use the same tyres that came with.the bike and this happened :(

Tubeless newbie here! My rear wheel has been leaking sealant from the tire/rim interface during rides, but has been holding sufficient air despite that - until today, where it went flat. No significant air loss overnight when sitting still. Took the tire off and inspected rim tape (came with the wheels). In several places, the tape is 1-2 mm from the side wall next to the bead bed, and I wonder if that has caused the issue. Tire bead appeared to be seated. I would be really interested to hear what you guys think.

Tire: GP5000 S TR 28 mm

Tape: DT Swiss 25 mm

Sealant: Silca Ultimate w Injectable Fiber Foam

Hey everyone

So i got my first real roadbike a month and a half ago which is a canyon aeroad CF SLX 7 di2 2027 model, since then i have had 5 punctures all been due to something getting stuck in the tyre and all being on the rear tyre, i havent had any pinch flats. I am riding on Conti aero 111 26mm on the front and a GP 5000 S TR 28mm on the rear. I am a quite heavy rider being 192 cm tall and weighing 96kg. Is it common to experience this many punctures and would tubeless solve my issues as i am quite annoyed by having to fix so many roadside punctures.

Thanks in advance (just got home after puncturing yet again:(( )

I have a 2020 Trek Émonda SL 6 Disc with an Ultegra groupset that I bought used last year. Since then, I haven't been able to get the front derailleur aligned.

I set the height, then the angle, then the L screw, and everything is fine up to that point. But when I go to set the H screw, I have to turn it in so far that it pushes the whole derailleur outward, which throws off the L setting. As it is, I essentially can't use the larger chainring without the chain rubbing on the derailleur.

I've included some photos, though I'm not sure which angles are the most helpful. Let me know if you need different ones. Please help!

I feel like no matter what I do, the chain rubs on the highest or the lowest cog in the back.

Is there a middle ground I’m missing somewhere or is that just part of it?

So I rebuild the fork on my bike periodically. Not as often as I should, but I've done it a bunch of times.

So a few weeks ago, I was way overdue, so I did a full service. Well not internal O rings but new seals no fluids etc. Cleaned it all out etc.

The lowers were all clean, new foamies installed, new seals. Foam was soaked in new oil, seals were freshly greased up. But when I went to put them on, they seemed to bind up. In a way I've never experienced before. I had to push really hard to get them on. Then I finished the reassembly and put the fork back on. It was working, but it was kind of sticky. It wasn't super plush like they usually are after a rebuild.

At this point, I figured one of the foam rings must have gotten pinched and caught between the stanchions and the bushings in the lowers.

Over time it loosened up a little bit but last night I took it apart again to fix it.

This is where things got very strange. There were some small pieces of chewed up foam rings that came out with the oil. BUT when I examined the rings themselves, they were not chewed up or mangled at all. They looked to be in basically perfect condition.

So new foam rings, new oil in the lowers, new grease, and the lowers slipped right on and now the fork feels good and plush. But I'm still not clear on exactly what happened. If pieces of foam came from the the previous service, they would have been super obvious. I removed the seals and the original foam and cleaned the insides of the lowers. I would have noticed chunks of foam sticking around in there. And yet..... last night, there they were.

Note - it may not look like it in the video, but those chunks are definitely pieces of foam. I picked them up and smooshed them and they were clearly torn up foam.

Tires too wide or is the wheel out of true? Slowly swapping parts on my first project and wider tires are rubbing on one side of the rear chain stay. To me it looks like if the wheel was centered then it would be tight, but it would fit. It has an old drum break so I’m not sure if that changes anything. Any ideas appreciated!

This got damaged in a ride a couple of days ago. The chain broke, and the right side of the frame where it connects to the rear wheel got bent as shown in the photos here.

There is a spot that I first thought was broken, but the latter two images here and the feel of it seem to indicate that it's only the paint.

I'm wondering if this is fixable. I can try to bend it back, but don't know if that would be worth my while. Should I even bother, or would it be too weakened after doing so?

Hey! I am trying to fix my fork. It’s loose. I can see the bearing. There are cables running through it.
All the screws are screwed to tork including the one going down from the top. But I feel like the cap where the cables enter is not correctly on. But I can’t seem to get it on correctly…

Any ideas?

Sorry for the poor video. Did I route the chain through the derailleur wrong? Chain too short?

I have an 2019 emonda sl6 carbon frame that got beat up by the chain… I am leaning towards fixing it myself(was quoted $550 for a frame I got for $200). Any suggestions/tips/tricks? Any kits you would recommend?

The carbon fiber is squishy in a 1 cm by 1 cm spot which I have circled… this is one the right chain stay close to the bottom bracket.

I really do appreciate any advice!

Hi all,

Dirt has damaged my bearings and the hub. I want to replace the hub, however I can't figure out how to remove the hub. I followed the basic steps to removed the cassette, disc, hub axle, bearings, etc. However for the hub and the shiny part that is damaged I can't figure out how to remove it. With the screwdriver I pointed out the part that has been damaged/pitted.

The hub seems to be a Shimano WH-RS171 complete Axle Thru.

Is it even possible to remove this hub? Do I have to hammer it out? Or is there a more subtle way of removing it?

Edit: it looks like I meant the bearing cup, it has a small dent and on the non drive side it cannot be replaced :(

Is my cassette still in good condition? I have the feeling that it isn’t. It has around 6,000 km on it now and has been making very loud noises for the last 500 km or so. The entire drivetrain is very noisy. It’s a mechanical rattling sound.
I’ve already replaced the front chainring, replaced the pulley wheels, and I wax my chains. I have two chains and alternate between them, rewaxing each one after around 600 km. I also don’t ride in wet or muddy conditions.
Do I need to replace it now? Been thinking to swap to XX casette.

X0 Casette
X0 Derailleur
GX Chains (replace them after 2000km each)
Rival shifters + cranks

Hey guys recently picked up this crankset with some surface rust, maybe you guys have some tricks or tips how I can remove the rust??

Hello. I have this old canyon endurace with fulcrum wheels. I am trying to swap rotors but with the dt470s, there is no space to place the lockring on the wheel hub. The pic with the vertical rotor has enough space for the lockout and is the fulcrum wheel. The horizontal is the dt470 wheel without any locknut space.​ any help would be great, thanks.

Hey folks. I was helping a buddy with a bleed on a bike with some Hayes Nines.

The little rubber seal in the handle is hooped. There was a misunderstanding on just what “plug” needed to be removed. The whole rubber part got pulled and broke.

Additionally, dot fluid got on the pads and rotors.

It was not a good day.

I should just replace the whole setup with MT200, yeah?

I've tried searching and can only find posts about synchro shift and that's not my issue

When I'm in my granny gear things are normally fine. But when I start throwing a lot of torque (e.g. really steep hill) the RD shifts into the next smallest cog. I am fairly certain this is a shift and not the chain slipping. The gear selection updates on my head unit when this happens.

Im pretty I need to adjust the L or B screw but I'm not sure which one or which way

Really shitty video but bike started making this noise after I changed the front derailleur cable. No chain rub on the cage. Just a crazy noise I can’t pinpoint. Any help is appreciated!

Was given this bike - super stoked until i realized the front fork is stuck. Anyway to fix this?

I have an old (2010) Specialized Rockhopper that I’m slowly converting into more of a gravel/adventure bike.

The fork is a Rockshox Dart 3 that has 80mm of travel, has never been serviced, and honestly doesn’t work too well.

I’m considering either replacing it with a newer air fork (Rockshox Recon, Manitou Markhor), or saving money and weight and go rigid instead.

Rigid forks that would work seem pretty rare, all I’ve found so far is the Steel Surly Krampus or Carbon Ritchey WCS. Does anyone have any leads on other forks that would work?

On the other hand, is the ~2.5+ lbs of weight savings even worth giving up the suspension for mainly road/gravel/smooth singletrack riding? My rigid 29er fatbike feels more plush, but it has 4.8” tires to help with that.

Pertinent specs:
1-1/8” threadless straight headset
9x100mm QR axle
Axle to Crown 484mm
Post-Mount disc brake
160mm disc brake diameter

Thought I was a total hero for getting GP5000S TRs onto my new deep carbon rims at home, without tire levers. Now I’m wondering if I’m an idiot and screwed!

I mounted the tires by placing my feet inside the rim, while sat down. Pull tire with hands and hold rim away with the feet on the opposite inside. Fairly easy to get the tire on. Excellent!

Except that I can’t get my disc brakes to stop rubbing occasionally as they go around. For both wheels it’s a very slight rub, twice per rotation. Enough on the rear to slow the wheel more than desired. The front is more a light brush, but it’s an annoying sound on both wheels.

I “measured” my wheels trueness using a credit card against the rim. Eyeballing it, the back rim is out by about 1mm (might be slightly more or less, I tried about 10x to measure it but couldn’t keep it steady). Weirdly the front rim I mounted/dismounted/remounted a tire whereas the rear I only mounted it, yet it seems the back is slightly worse.

1. is it possible or likely that I “pulled” my rims out of true?
2. is it fixable if that’s what happened?
3. should I just try to align the callipers with a business card as a disc/calliper spacer rather than get the rims trued?

edit: rotors installed after installing tires/cassette and weren’t touched