On a scale of 1 to immediate non negotiable replacement, how toast is this fork?

Can it wait a few weeks of light city commute?

It's been in a crash but the evenness of the bend in the fork and the relative good condition of the wheel make me doubt, is it that bent or are some designs slightly curbed like this?

Rode it home from a friend crashing it, felt safeish but the rubbing brakes made it hard to diagnose while riding.

I’d like to press a few headsets in every now and then then. What’s my best option? Amazon/temu special, DIY press, board and mallet? Don’t want junk, but don’t need it to go to theoretical grandchildren.

Hey guys recently picked up this crankset with some surface rust, maybe you guys have some tricks or tips how I can remove the rust??

I bought these Elite carbon gravel wheels from AliExpress quite a while ago, and at the time I probably didn’t notice that they came with a Shimano ROAD HG freehub.
My bike has a Shimano GRX RX820 1x12 groupset. My DT Swiss wheelset uses a Micro Spline freehub with a Shimano 12 speed cassette, so that cassette does not fit the Elite wheel.
I want to keep both wheelsets complete, each with its own cassette, because I want to use different tire widths depending on the ride.
So I see two possible options:
Replace the Elite HG freehub body with a compatible Micro Spline freehub body, then use another Shimano 12 speed cassette.
Keep the current HG freehub and use a different brand 12 speed cassette that fits HG, but still works properly with the Shimano GRX RX820 1x12 drivetrain.
Is either option possible? And if I keep the HG freehub, which cassette brands/models would you recommend for good shifting compatibility with GRX 12 speed?
Photos attached. Thanks!
Btw i know there is too much grease on the free hub, so dont worry I removed a lot of it ;)

So I rebuild the fork on my bike periodically. Not as often as I should, but I've done it a bunch of times.

So a few weeks ago, I was way overdue, so I did a full service. Well not internal O rings but new seals no fluids etc. Cleaned it all out etc.

The lowers were all clean, new foamies installed, new seals. Foam was soaked in new oil, seals were freshly greased up. But when I went to put them on, they seemed to bind up. In a way I've never experienced before. I had to push really hard to get them on. Then I finished the reassembly and put the fork back on. It was working, but it was kind of sticky. It wasn't super plush like they usually are after a rebuild.

At this point, I figured one of the foam rings must have gotten pinched and caught between the stanchions and the bushings in the lowers.

Over time it loosened up a little bit but last night I took it apart again to fix it.

This is where things got very strange. There were some small pieces of chewed up foam rings that came out with the oil. BUT when I examined the rings themselves, they were not chewed up or mangled at all. They looked to be in basically perfect condition.

So new foam rings, new oil in the lowers, new grease, and the lowers slipped right on and now the fork feels good and plush. But I'm still not clear on exactly what happened. If pieces of foam came from the the previous service, they would have been super obvious. I removed the seals and the original foam and cleaned the insides of the lowers. I would have noticed chunks of foam sticking around in there. And yet..... last night, there they were.

Note - it may not look like it in the video, but those chunks are definitely pieces of foam. I picked them up and smooshed them and they were clearly torn up foam.

Tires too wide or is the wheel out of true? Slowly swapping parts on my first project and wider tires are rubbing on one side of the rear chain stay. To me it looks like if the wheel was centered then it would be tight, but it would fit. It has an old drum break so I’m not sure if that changes anything. Any ideas appreciated!

I have an 2019 emonda sl6 carbon frame that got beat up by the chain… I am leaning towards fixing it myself(was quoted $550 for a frame I got for $200). Any suggestions/tips/tricks? Any kits you would recommend?

The carbon fiber is squishy in a 1 cm by 1 cm spot which I have circled… this is one the right chain stay close to the bottom bracket.

I really do appreciate any advice!

Hello. I have this old canyon endurace with fulcrum wheels. I am trying to swap rotors but with the dt470s, there is no space to place the lockring on the wheel hub. The pic with the vertical rotor has enough space for the lockout and is the fulcrum wheel. The horizontal is the dt470 wheel without any locknut space.​ any help would be great, thanks.

Hey folks. I was helping a buddy with a bleed on a bike with some Hayes Nines.

The little rubber seal in the handle is hooped. There was a misunderstanding on just what “plug” needed to be removed. The whole rubber part got pulled and broke.

Additionally, dot fluid got on the pads and rotors.

It was not a good day.

I should just replace the whole setup with MT200, yeah?

My LBS had me replace my pulley wheels to try and solve a drivetrain issue (which didn’t solve it and mostly because my chain cassette and even chainrings were worn off)... Now that I have these old pulley wheels put out and cleaned, they look like they don't have any issues and I can even put these back on (or use them later). Am I wrong?

1x10 parts bin group set that should all align and feels like it wants to shift nicely but derailleur is doing some funny business and chain is a bit slack. What do I adjust? Should the thing in the last picture sort me out?

Im on an large frame 29er MTB being used as a commuter. I have had major back surgery with two 10 inch rods from a bike accident. My back doesn't like to bend

For a more comfortable ride. I'm looking to raise the handlebars about two inches and bring them closer to me for a better more upright feel. Here is a picture to describe somewhat what I'm looking for. The stuff I've found is like $150-$200 I need something more on a budget. I will also add swept handlebars later but gotta get one thing taken care of first.

Two pics attached

Also is there anything with some type of suspension built into what I'm looking for that's not crazy priced either

I use the same tyres that came with.the bike and this happened :(

I've tried searching and can only find posts about synchro shift and that's not my issue

When I'm in my granny gear things are normally fine. But when I start throwing a lot of torque (e.g. really steep hill) the RD shifts into the next smallest cog. I am fairly certain this is a shift and not the chain slipping. The gear selection updates on my head unit when this happens.

Im pretty I need to adjust the L or B screw but I'm not sure which one or which way

Hey all,

I recently moved into a new apartment and there's a storage-like area outside the front door. My roommate and I swapped out the locks on the door and I can fit my bike into it like so. Is that going to be okay to store it long term? I use it about once or twice a week, but will likely use it more often after I finish tuning it up.

I'm worried that having the handlebars turned all the way inwards like that won't be great for the stem or head tube. Both wheels are quick release.

This got damaged in a ride a couple of days ago. The chain broke, and the right side of the frame where it connects to the rear wheel got bent as shown in the photos here.

There is a spot that I first thought was broken, but the latter two images here and the feel of it seem to indicate that it's only the paint.

I'm wondering if this is fixable. I can try to bend it back, but don't know if that would be worth my while. Should I even bother, or would it be too weakened after doing so?

Hey everyone, pulled my brake pads and found some severe tapered/angled wear. One edge was worn down while the rest had material left.

My Shimano Ice-Tech rotor also has some light scoring along the track. I sanded the pad flat to test, but I need to fix the root cause before putting in new pads.

A few questions:

Does this warrant immediate replacement or can I stretch it for the remainder of the season. (I sanded it down and made it flat again)

What generally causes something like this to happen as the front pads look immaculate

Has anyone seen this pad wear pattern score an Ice-Tech rotor, and did the rotor survive once new pads were installed?

Thanks for any insights!

Hey everybody.

I’ve got this bizarre clanking coming from my rear hub. I noticed it today about 30 minutes into my ride. It was only happening while pedaling. When I got off to inspect I noticed that when I pushed down on the crank, the gears would move a few degrees, engage, then would move again very slightly and make this creaking/clanking noise.

I road another 30 minutes back, and the issue seemed to fix itself.

This is the second time it has happened, and is rather loud and annoying.

Any ideas? cassette seems to be solid, is this a symptom of a failing hub?

Hello all. I wanted your opinion on my pedal clearance on my Jamis Ventura 57cm, as a noob. I was having slipping issues on my basic pedals I had, and did just put more of an mtb style in to save cost. I have not ridden with them just yet. Im not sure if I was having issues with striking, and it might just be the slippage but a few times it felt like my front toe got caught and began to be pulled under. I was gifted this bike and wanted to see your opinions on if the pedals were sitting too low or this is a typical size for road biking? I’m 5, 11” for reference. Sorry if the pics are silly, the first one with the can is the bike standing up straight.

If it is sitting too low, what are my best options?

Hey! I am trying to fix my fork. It’s loose. I can see the bearing. There are cables running through it.
All the screws are screwed to tork including the one going down from the top. But I feel like the cap where the cables enter is not correctly on. But I can’t seem to get it on correctly…

Any ideas?

Really shitty video but bike started making this noise after I changed the front derailleur cable. No chain rub on the cage. Just a crazy noise I can’t pinpoint. Any help is appreciated!

I have a Cannondale CAAD13 with a mechanical Shimano 105 11-speed drivetrain (50/34, 11-30). I recently changed the stock wheelset to a new Zipp 404 Firecrest, while keeping the same cassette.

Since the wheel change, I have a strange issue: under high load (standing and accelerating/climbing) in 50x11 only, the chain climbs off the outside of the big chainring. At normal power it runs fine. It seems to derail at the same points on the chainring each time, and there are now visible marks/damage at two areas of the big ring, roughly opposite each other.

Things the bike shop and I have already tried/checked:
- Rear derailleur adjusted several times and hanger alignment checked with an alignment tool – straight.
- Front derailleur adjusted, including setting it very close to prevent an outward drop – chain can still come off.
- Original 50T chainring replaced with a new one – no improvement.
- Chain checked – apparently fine.
- Original 105 R7000 11-30 cassette temporarily replaced with an Ultegra 11-28 – exact same problem in 50x11.
- Zipp freehub inspected and regreased – nothing obviously wrong.
- Crank/chainline moved about 2 mm outward using the existing crank spacers to improve the chainline towards the 11T cog – still drops.
- Under load I can also hear some drivetrain rubbing/rattling in several of the smaller rear cogs.

The bike worked normally before fitting the Zipp wheel. The problem appeared after the wheel change.
The chain only drops when I put substantial power through it, so it is difficult to reproduce on a workstand. Both I and the mechanic can reproduce it on the road.

At this point I’m wondering about cassette/freehub position or movement under load, chainring/spider/crank runout or flex, or something else that only appears under high torque. My next thought is to reinstall the original rear wheel as an A/B test.

What would you check next? And does the fact that it always seems to climb off at the same locations on the chainring point towards anything specific?

Tubeless newbie here! My rear wheel has been leaking sealant from the tire/rim interface during rides, but has been holding sufficient air despite that - until today, where it went flat. No significant air loss overnight when sitting still. Took the tire off and inspected rim tape (came with the wheels). In several places, the tape is 1-2 mm from the side wall next to the bead bed, and I wonder if that has caused the issue. Tire bead appeared to be seated. I would be really interested to hear what you guys think.

Tire: GP5000 S TR 28 mm

Tape: DT Swiss 25 mm

Sealant: Silca Ultimate w Injectable Fiber Foam