Hi eveyone, im looking to find a site that sells replacement hangers for my Scott addict 20 (2025) as all I find are the ones for RC or older models, what would be the reference num? is this model UDH? it has ultegra on it, thanks a lot

My LBS had me replace my pulley wheels to try and solve a drivetrain issue (which didn’t solve it and mostly because my chain cassette and even chainrings were worn off)... Now that I have these old pulley wheels put out and cleaned, they look like they don't have any issues and I can even put these back on (or use them later). Am I wrong?

Hey guys recently picked up this crankset with some surface rust, maybe you guys have some tricks or tips how I can remove the rust??

1x10 parts bin group set that should all align and feels like it wants to shift nicely but derailleur is doing some funny business and chain is a bit slack. What do I adjust? Should the thing in the last picture sort me out?

Im on an large frame 29er MTB being used as a commuter. I have had major back surgery with two 10 inch rods from a bike accident. My back doesn't like to bend

For a more comfortable ride. I'm looking to raise the handlebars about two inches and bring them closer to me for a better more upright feel. Here is a picture to describe somewhat what I'm looking for. The stuff I've found is like $150-$200 I need something more on a budget. I will also add swept handlebars later but gotta get one thing taken care of first.

Two pics attached

Also is there anything with some type of suspension built into what I'm looking for that's not crazy priced either

I’d like to press a few headsets in every now and then then. What’s my best option? Amazon/temu special, DIY press, board and mallet? Don’t want junk, but don’t need it to go to theoretical grandchildren.

Hey all,

I recently moved into a new apartment and there's a storage-like area outside the front door. My roommate and I swapped out the locks on the door and I can fit my bike into it like so. Is that going to be okay to store it long term? I use it about once or twice a week, but will likely use it more often after I finish tuning it up.

I'm worried that having the handlebars turned all the way inwards like that won't be great for the stem or head tube. Both wheels are quick release.

Hello. I have this old canyon endurace with fulcrum wheels. I am trying to swap rotors but with the dt470s, there is no space to place the lockring on the wheel hub. The pic with the vertical rotor has enough space for the lockout and is the fulcrum wheel. The horizontal is the dt470 wheel without any locknut space.​ any help would be great, thanks.

Hey everyone, pulled my brake pads and found some severe tapered/angled wear. One edge was worn down while the rest had material left.

My Shimano Ice-Tech rotor also has some light scoring along the track. I sanded the pad flat to test, but I need to fix the root cause before putting in new pads.

A few questions:

Does this warrant immediate replacement or can I stretch it for the remainder of the season. (I sanded it down and made it flat again)

What generally causes something like this to happen as the front pads look immaculate

Has anyone seen this pad wear pattern score an Ice-Tech rotor, and did the rotor survive once new pads were installed?

Thanks for any insights!

Hey everybody.

I’ve got this bizarre clanking coming from my rear hub. I noticed it today about 30 minutes into my ride. It was only happening while pedaling. When I got off to inspect I noticed that when I pushed down on the crank, the gears would move a few degrees, engage, then would move again very slightly and make this creaking/clanking noise.

I road another 30 minutes back, and the issue seemed to fix itself.

This is the second time it has happened, and is rather loud and annoying.

Any ideas? cassette seems to be solid, is this a symptom of a failing hub?

On a scale of 1 to immediate non negotiable replacement, how toast is this fork?

Can it wait a few weeks of light city commute?

It's been in a crash but the evenness of the bend in the fork and the relative good condition of the wheel make me doubt, is it that bent or are some designs slightly curbed like this?

Rode it home from a friend crashing it, felt safeish but the rubbing brakes made it hard to diagnose while riding.

Hey folks. I was helping a buddy with a bleed on a bike with some Hayes Nines.

The little rubber seal in the handle is hooped. There was a misunderstanding on just what “plug” needed to be removed. The whole rubber part got pulled and broke.

Additionally, dot fluid got on the pads and rotors.

It was not a good day.

I should just replace the whole setup with MT200, yeah?

I have an 2019 emonda sl6 carbon frame that got beat up by the chain… I am leaning towards fixing it myself(was quoted $550 for a frame I got for $200). Any suggestions/tips/tricks? Any kits you would recommend?

The carbon fiber is squishy in a 1 cm by 1 cm spot which I have circled… this is one the right chain stay close to the bottom bracket.

I really do appreciate any advice!

Backstory, running a Fred Bar on top of my stem.. With my OEM Trek compression plug, the lower half of the stem is no longer supported. So I fired up the old google machine, and tbh was surprised in the lack of "normal" cycling brands offering for 60-90mm length compression plugs.

So I grabbed a 90mm no-name cheap one to try it out, and find it really only expands from the top end...the lower end has a smaller ramp, and while it does extend a bit, it stops well before the top end does... So, I am not sure it's really doing any good this way. Or do they all act this way, really only expanding from "the top"?

I did find Pro offers a 50 (or 58mm, depending on the listing) long plug, and Cane Creek offers a 46mm (net 38) one. I suppose I don't actually need 90mm, as my stem plus Fred bar is 56mm total, with a 1mm spacer in between. So like a 50-60 would be plenty?, I was thinking of the Pro, although tbh it looks just like the no name one I bought off Amazon, since no local dealer carries something like this it seems :(

Any suggestions for other brand? I saw the Specialized also but it appears the lower part doesn't actually provide any support at all, it's just a filler

Just bought a used sl and rd m8000 off fb but just realized that the shifter doesn’t go below 8th. From the videos they just blast wd 40 into the lube port which I think this has but I’ve also heard people saying to never use wd 40 on your bike, any help would be appreciated. Did only buy both of these for 40 together so not so bummed but I’d like to fix the shifter somehow.

Got a salsa journeyer flat bar. I’m routing the brake lines for the first time and I routed the rear brake on the same side as the lever (right) but there’s port holes on the left. I assumed that was for the dropper or a FD.

I got the whole thing built and bled but for some reason the lines look off. as in they never cross eachother in front of the headtube. I then looked at all my bikes with external routing and they all cross.

Obviously it still brakes fine. I just thought it looked weird since it was the first time doing it myself and wondering if there’s any obvious safety issues by not routing it on the left exit port across the headtube into the right lever.

and for clarification for my setup:

Left lever/front brake: empty port on left downtube port exit. Front brake line runs straight into fork.

right lever/rear brake. hydraulic line on right downtube port exit and routes to rear brake.

Shifting is all wireless so no need for shift cables. Might run a cable dropper in the future.

So I rebuild the fork on my bike periodically. Not as often as I should, but I've done it a bunch of times.

So a few weeks ago, I was way overdue, so I did a full service. Well not internal O rings but new seals no fluids etc. Cleaned it all out etc.

The lowers were all clean, new foamies installed, new seals. Foam was soaked in new oil, seals were freshly greased up. But when I went to put them on, they seemed to bind up. In a way I've never experienced before. I had to push really hard to get them on. Then I finished the reassembly and put the fork back on. It was working, but it was kind of sticky. It wasn't super plush like they usually are after a rebuild.

At this point, I figured one of the foam rings must have gotten pinched and caught between the stanchions and the bushings in the lowers.

Over time it loosened up a little bit but last night I took it apart again to fix it.

This is where things got very strange. There were some small pieces of chewed up foam rings that came out with the oil. BUT when I examined the rings themselves, they were not chewed up or mangled at all. They looked to be in basically perfect condition.

So new foam rings, new oil in the lowers, new grease, and the lowers slipped right on and now the fork feels good and plush. But I'm still not clear on exactly what happened. If pieces of foam came from the the previous service, they would have been super obvious. I removed the seals and the original foam and cleaned the insides of the lowers. I would have noticed chunks of foam sticking around in there. And yet..... last night, there they were.

Note - it may not look like it in the video, but those chunks are definitely pieces of foam. I picked them up and smooshed them and they were clearly torn up foam.

I've tried searching and can only find posts about synchro shift and that's not my issue

When I'm in my granny gear things are normally fine. But when I start throwing a lot of torque (e.g. really steep hill) the RD shifts into the next smallest cog. I am fairly certain this is a shift and not the chain slipping. The gear selection updates on my head unit when this happens.

Im pretty I need to adjust the L or B screw but I'm not sure which one or which way

Tires too wide or is the wheel out of true? Slowly swapping parts on my first project and wider tires are rubbing on one side of the rear chain stay. To me it looks like if the wheel was centered then it would be tight, but it would fit. It has an old drum break so I’m not sure if that changes anything. Any ideas appreciated!

I have coke (and other liquids), and a cheap ultrasonic cleaner.

Edit: the spots are corrosion pits.

The blue part got moved up and it no longer turns.

Any idea how to fix it?

Really shitty video but bike started making this noise after I changed the front derailleur cable. No chain rub on the cage. Just a crazy noise I can’t pinpoint. Any help is appreciated!

Have this Trek 720 multitrack 3x8, crankset is FC-TY30 (48/38/28T) and cassette is 8s up to 30T. Rear spacing is 135mm.

I'm looking at the shimano compatibility chart for the rear and thinking to upgrade the rear derailleur to M5120 and pair it with a cassette M4100-10 (11-42T) and put the right rear 10s shifter and the chain.

For the chainline, I tried to find out what the chainline for the FC-TY30 is, and got the result of 47.5mm but I'm not 100% sure.

Whereas, the new cranksets out there that would pair with this rear drive, they all seem to be 48.8mm and 50mm.

Can I use the existing crankset FC-TY30 with the new rear parts for the rear drive but use only two of the chainrings the smallest one 28T and the one in the middle 38T?

According to Fox, my 34 mm Float shock needs 20 wt oil on the air side bath, and 4 wt oil on the damper side bath. So going through my supplies, I see that I have plenty of Fox 20 wt Oil and a quart of Fox 5 wt oil. Is this close enough? What's the harm in using 5 wt oil where Fox specs 4 wt oil?

I’m trying to service this mech but every time I try to install the cage, the spring comes out of the cage holder and loses tension. any advice on how to install?

I’ve been following this video:

https://youtu.be/q6ZiRa-YfwQ?is=_fbC8__EoHIT2fGZ

but he doesn’t have the same problems I do. Any help would be great.