First it was stripped and followed advice to get a lug extractor now it fucking snapped no chance of getting it with a socket or anything it’s snapped all the way down what are my options. Tried drilling this shit is harder than a Mf and doesn’t go

Audi a5 b8 2.0 TDI

2018 Hyundai Sonata 2.0T, 82k miles. Honest takes appreciated.

It took two months but the dealer replaced the turbo assembly under warranty (broken shaft was pushing oil into the charge piping, fouled all 4 plugs). They also replaced the oil feed line and gaskets. They note they "replaced" the plugs, and test drove it before completion

I got it back this evening and 9 miles later it stalled at a light and wouldn't restart. Cranks, no ignition. Scanned it: cylinder 3 and 4 misfires. So I pulled the plugs. All of the plugs were fouled like the ones shown in the last picture and the Cyl 4 plug had the ground electrode smashed into the center electrode and the shell rim was covered in shiny impact marks resembling peening.

Two things bug me: their invoice never lists spark plugs as a part used (everything else is itemized), and even though their notes say oil went into the intercooler and charge piping, there's no line item for cleaning that out or checking the cylinders or system for debris.

It has been towed back to the same dealership and they will look at it in the morning.

Questions:

1. What crushes a plug electrode and peens the shell rim like this? (My intuition tells me a foreign object in in cylinder 4) What other damage can I expect?

2. Could leftover oil/debris in the charge system after a turbo failure cause it? Or is this more likely to be FOD introduced into the cylinder during the repair?

3. Should decontaminating the intercooler and charge piping have been part of this job? Would that normally be listed in the repair notes?

4. What should they do here? obviously scope the cylinder, but if there's significant scoring and damage is it unreasonable to push for replacement?

Hi everyone, i am a marine tech looking for some input from heavy truck mechanics. Basically I am getting this old crane truck to use in the yard for basically scrap value. The crane works and I am pretty confident I can get it to run and drive (the brakes might be stuck but the cat 3208 engine was recently rebuilt and the tires hold air). How crazy would it be to get it road legal in ontario? I have absolutely no clue. Thoughts?

Also how do I tell if those are split rims or dayton wheels?

Looking for objective opinions from people who know Fords, especially Ranger/Everest owners and mechanics.
I have a Ford Ranger Wildtrak 2.0 Bi-Turbo 4x2 that I purchased in May 2024. It currently has around 19,000 km.
The truck recently had a radiator failure. Coolant leaked/sprayed around the front of the engine, including the accessory belt area. The vehicle then sat for roughly 2 months while waiting for repairs and parts.
After getting the truck back, I noticed that the crankshaft pulley/harmonic balancer (or at least what I believe is the crank pulley) now has noticeable surface rust on the front face.
My initial reaction was concern because the vehicle is relatively new and low mileage. Part of me wondered whether the pulley could have been swapped with an older used part while the vehicle was in the workshop.
On the other hand, I’ve also been told that:
coolant exposure can accelerate corrosion,
the pulley face is exposed steel,
and sitting idle for 2 months may actually promote surface rust more than regular use.
So I’m trying not to jump to conclusions.
My questions:
Is this amount/pattern of rust normal after a coolant leak and 2 months of sitting?
Does the pulley look like a relatively new part that developed surface rust, or does it look unusually old for a vehicle with only 19,000 km?
If a crank pulley/harmonic balancer had been replaced, what signs would you look for to verify that?
Has anyone here experienced a similar situation after a radiator failure?
I’m not accusing the dealership of anything. I’m just trying to understand whether what I’m seeing is normal corrosion or something worth investigating further.

Car overheated on me on Friday. Pulled over for like 20-30 minutes to let it cool down. Checked my coolant levels and they were good. Car does need an oil change soon but not for another 800 miles or so. I get it changed whenever the sticker says. So I was looking up why the engine can overheat and it said a dirty radiator. I know the radiator is dirty and needs to be cleaned now. What can make it look like that though?

Do I need to go get some radiator cleaner or do I just use water and put new radiator fluid in it?

Can I clean the outside of the radiator without taking my car apart? I am tool savvy but I usually do like house work and woodworking not too much mechanical work other than changing headlights

as you read in the title, my dad put 10w40 engine oil in the power steering fluid reservoir. i told him not to do it, but he didn’t listen and called me a non knowledgeable dumbass who doesn’t know anything about cars. i obviously know more than him, but whatever.

fast forward two minutes, and it started leaking the oil he had just put inside the reservoir. i told him it was leaking, and he said it was normal. 🤣
all the oil he put into the reservoir leaked out, and the reservoir was completely empty. the car then started making the squealing noise you normally hear when a car has no power steering fluid.

so now we have a car that’s leaking power steering fluid/oil and is basically undriveable.

my question is: was it the 10w40 he put in that caused the leak, or could it have been something else?

the car is a 2004/2005 ford focus 1.6.

i’ve already ordered the correct power steering fluid: wss-m2c204-a2.

i’ll take a picture of the leak if anyone needs to see it

I am very indecisive over which car to get.

For context, I have 8k in savings but don’t want to blow it all up in a car. I only want it for personal commute since my partner has a newer car and I don’t want to rely on him for it.

I have been thinking about getting one of these. Which one do you guys think would be the best option for my needs?

I really appreciate your help!

(I have the carfax on the Mazda3, but the seller for the Corolla doesn’t have one)

Help lol
2018 430i BMW grancoupe

This seems to have started after I got my oil change done. I know jeep fuel economy isn’t the best but it’s much worse than what it was before. I put fuel in this sucker on Sunday which brought it up to 3 quarters full now it’s at a half. A commute to and from work takes only 20km and it used about a quarter of my tank for it?? I can’t be paying $60 every 3 days to keep it above half 😬

1994 honda del sol 1.5l sohc motor (d15b7)

Any ideas would be appreciated. All measurements were in spec

1991 c1500, non chip car key. Locksmiths are outrageously expensive, paid $900 for keys last time felt scammed out the ass.

Anyone know a good idea to get a copy of this key?

I was worried about this right away, but this was a good offer and name brand mowers are like 10x the price...

It’s a 2018 Hyundai sonata, I noticed a terrible noise when I was making a turn and then I saw this. Hard to get a picture but I have no idea what this is someone plzzzz help

I’m looking for some advice on how to handle an issue with a shop regarding a sub par repair on my 2021 Toyota Tundra.

I brought my truck in to have the cam tab gussets repaired due to an alignment shop bending g a couple of them. I was originally quoted ~$1300 for a full replacement, but after I dropped the truck off, the shop called to say they had the wrong parts. They suggested bending the existing bent tabs back (not all of them were bent) and back welding all of them for reinforcement instead. I authorized this modified work.

I paid ~$1,029 total: ~$800 for the welding/labor and ~$200 for an attempted alignment which they couldn't get the camber aligned stating that the driver side spindle was bent due to a prior accident.

A week later I took my truck to a different shop I have used before but is over an hour away for a second opinion. Their inspection revealed that the alignment tabs are still bent and not within spec, several tabs were melted or structurally damaged by the welding process, and the welding preparation/ lack of coating was poor, leaving significant exposed metal underneath.

The second shop confirmed that the original "repair" was ineffective and that the tabs still need to be replaced to restore function and structural integrity before they could rule out any other issue like the claimed bent spindle.

Sorry for the long back story but here are my questions, I feel that I paid for a service that was not performed correctly and, in some ways, left the truck in worse condition. I want to approach the first shop to request a refund, but I need guidance on how to go about this.

Yes I authorized the "bend and weld" method because the wrong parts were sent, do I have a case for a refund, or am I stuck because the work was "performed"?

How should I frame this conversation to be taken seriously without coming across as unreasonable?

Any advice on how to handle this would be appreciated. I have attached photos of the current state of the tabs so you can see.

Nissan dealership refusing to change cylinder head gasket. Opting to replace the whole engine instead.

Brought my Altima in for a misfire and they informed me that the head gasket is leaking into cylinder 4 causing the misfire.

The car has never overheated and I did not notice any white cloud of smoke pouring out the exhaust.

However, they pressure tested and borescoped, which led them to quote me 11980 dollars for a long block.

When asked why, they told me the cylinders were warped.
How did they determine this if all they did was a borescope? I’m no car mechanic but that seems odd to me.

They also informed me that they will not dismantle the engine and that it would just be more cost effective to just replace the engine.

So, I guess my question. Any other reliable brand cars out there that I wouldn’t have to worry about issues like this? Might honestly find me an old Honda civic. They seem reliable.

TIA

2018 Crv 1.5l 120k
This car is new to me and I’m not familiar with the engine. I’m more accustomed to working on 90s American engines.

Was on highway car started to make a few sckreeching noises randomly like a belt. Noises stopped and turned into slight knocking. Pulled over to this knocking/chatter.

RPM dependent.
Oil was just changed the week before with proper filter and weight.
No check engine codes. Pulled all the ignition one at a time, noise did not lighten.

Ran VTC test on diagnostic tool. VTC test FAILED. but this does not sound like a failing VTC gear.

Can someone identify this?

TOYOTA COROLLA 2000
Power steering pulley has some side to side wobble when car is running. When I turn my steeringwheel in park the noise goes away but once I take load off the steeringwheel it continues… already replaced tensioner pulley (thought this was the culprit bearing) and belt (I thought it was slapping)

I have a 2010 Hyundai Accent with a 5-speed manual transmission.

Recently I’ve been having trouble getting it into reverse. When I pull up the reverse lockout and move the shifter as far left as I can, it usually won’t move into the reverse gate. If I push the shifter forward, it goes into 1st instead.

This isn’t something it has always done — reverse used to work normally.

The strange part is that sometimes reverse does work. When it finally does, I can hear/feel a mechanical sound from around the transmission/gearbox area, almost like something inside suddenly moved into position. After that I can actually select reverse.

I attached a video showing exactly what the shifter is doing.

All the other gears seem to be selectable normally.

Does this sound more like a problem with the shift/select cable or its adjustment, the reverse lockout/shifter mechanism, or something in the transmission-side selector itself?

Is there anything specific I should check before assuming there’s an internal transmission problem?

So I recently got into accident trying replace everything I mostly have everything and I need new lines for my A/C condenser but idk where I could find them there like black metal lining and idk what there specifically called ive looked everywhere how to find them or fix them specifically or any at all cause idk if there separate to the condenser itself or not

P.s its the the line that goes out of the picture it is one that broke on the condenser you can see it go hit out of it everything else is fine but idk whwre find that piece specifically

2010 Subaru Forester with 230,000 mi. Aside from the P0420 code lighting up my dashboard all the time, the vehicle runs great, generally rust free. I have owned this car for 16 years and have done most of the work to the vehicle including timing belt, radiator, alternator, and driveshafts. It's a great around town kid-shuttling vehicle, and soon to be a drivers-ed car.

Even replacing the cat myself, the wholesale cost of an OEM cat for this PZEV vehicle is $3400 (JUST FOR THE PART). Walker cat's are obviously cheaper, but I have noticed that once people go that path, they end up having to replace converters over and over.

Given the cost of OEM cat's, do you all just live with the P0420 codes? What would you do? These converter prices have gotten so bad, i'm surprised they havent suspended emissions testing. It would seem like a death sentence to most old cars for no really good reason. $3400 is more the the blue book value of the car.

I don't really have photos but need some advice. I have a coolant leak the hoses are completely fine. It only leaks when the engine is on could this be a worn water pump seal? Im still new to fixing my truck up so any advice is helpful.

It is also a 2003 Chevy Silverado 5.3

Hi there, I bought a 2013 honda jazz I-VTEC S 1.2 petrol the other day. 1 hour into driving it away after buying it from a private seller, the engine management light came on.

I asked someone to scan it, and the P0172 code came up.

So I thought I'd try and replace the MAF sensor. however I'm getting conflicting ideas.

AI is saying this model does not have a MAF sensor, rather a MAP sensor

While euro car parts and other sites show compatible MAF sensors for my registration

Any ideas what I should do?

My truck does this from time to time, will eventually stop on it's own. I've had my battery checked and charged fully. I've pulled the cluster and reflowed all the solder points as well.

Thoughts?