I know.. this is HORRIBLE. Noticed a bad shake at 35+MPH. I have parked the truck until I fix this. I got under and noticed cv boots are shot and so are the tie rods and sway link bushings. Would these alone cause a shake in this condition? Also, anything else you see worth replacing while I’m at it?

Per the title, I suspect warped front brake rotors on my car but the pads still have plenty of thickness left so I'd prefer to keep the pads and replace just the rotors.

Would the warped rotors have caused any kind of deformation on the pads that could adversely affect the new rotors?

Or would the pads quickly form to the shape of the new rotors and be fine?

2017 Toyota Rav 4​

Two years ago, I didn’t even know how to do my own oil.

My 2011 Hyundai Tucson recently developed a major brake fluid leak coming from the rear driver's side. It seems to be coming from the connection point between the brake hose and the caliper (at least I think that's what it is - it's the end that's not going to the brake line). I figured the nut connecting them needed to be tightened, but when I try, it sort of seems to crumble. The hose itself doesn't show any signs of damage, and is not leaking any fluid. I'm not very familiar with cars so my apologies if this is a stupid question, but do I need to replace the whole hose, the nut, or the connector piece, or something else? Any tips for how to get the rusty nut off? I was just trying with a normal adjustable wrench.

Secondary (but related) question: since this leak, the parking brake light remains on even when the brake is lifted. Will this be fixed by fixing the leak?

Thanks in advance!

Currently running 5w40, but car has started to smoke a lot when under pressure. For example when driving fast/high RPM-s. When driving “slow” normal city driving, I don’t really notice it smoking at all, when I floor it a few times, the car starts to smoke like crazy when stopped at a red light.

Thinking about trying out 5w50 as a bandaid until I get this piece of shit fixed, does anyone have any experience with running such a thick oil in an M57? Engine has around 395k km-s on it.

Also if anyone has an idea what the cause of the car burning oil could be? Personally thinking turbo, but the turbo itself looks quite clean, when examined from the outside, haven’t got around to removing it completely and examining it.

Ok Reddit I need some help. I’m looking at possibly purchasing a 2008 ford f-250 5.4 I think gas truck that lived part of its life in Alaska and the other half in Oregon - I went to check it out today and the underneath looked like this….

Overall the truck ran well, handled fine and seemed decent but this is my area of concern. Is it severe? Is it unsafe? Is it repairable? Is it worth it? What can I do to maintenance it?

Im going back Thursday to discuss financing and stuff so I have some time to think and investigate but when I go back is there anything more I should look for before making my decision fully?

Thanks in advance!

So I’ve been looking at this 03 gts eclipse and I’ve wanted one for a while but it needs a valve cover gasket cap replacement i think is what it’s called. I test drove it and it runs and the interior is super clean and no dash or leather cracks with 58k miles on it for $5,500 cash. The bumper is kinda dinged up a bit though. The carfax looks very good it was well maintained and the timing belt was replaced at a dealership not too long ago. I know fixing this would require getting the intake manifold off to be able to replace the cap and that it’s kinda tedious. So my question is would I be able to do it by myself? I’m not very experienced with working on cars but am an electrician and have access to tools and could get some if I didn’t have something I needed. I really want the car but wouldn’t be able to pay a mechanic almost 2 grand right now so it would just sit in my driveway. It would end up being my daily if it works out and I’m fine with working on it for a week if I need to but just really don’t want to mess it up so let me know your thoughts.

2013 Toyota Venza v6

Car makes like a vibration sound when accelerating at a steady speed at 45mph and 50mph. If I increase or decrease the pressure I’m applying to the pedal at all.. the sound stops. I cannot mimic the sound in park or at a stop. If I’m just gunning it from stop to go it does not happen at all. Only at a steady pace. Any ideas?

I do not have a check engine light on nor does the car act any different. Just the sound has increased from only occurring at 45mph to also at 50mph.

I got it to happen twice in this video.

it looks like it's gone to me.

01 toyota camry

Went in for an oil change and they inspected the vehicle. They shared the rear shocks are bad and tires are cupping. Wanted to get a second opinion to see how serious it is in the photos they shared.

2018 VW TIGUAN SEL

I got a 2013 Scion frs bought as is from dealer was working mechanically fine before this issue no weird noises I did oil change spark plugs first week I had it so I planned to take care of it but the other day when I went to start it I got no crank no start, checked battery all good everything on dash turns on started inspecting fuses and found “efi ctrl” was popping I began tea searching and quickly found it’s beyond my skill level so I took it in.

For the mechanics/techs out there how long does something like this take to find? Last update I got was this morning and the mechanic is going through the wiring diagram for it does that seem about right? I’ve been screwed over from a bad shop in the past and hope this goes good but I know electrical could be very annoying to deal with. I took it here through some others in my area please let me know if got anything thank you guys

I bought these fancy led tail lights. A little sketch because the manual is in broken English, app all in mandarin. They have these big ass resistors and they must not have been seated in their casing properly because they’re melting the plastic and smoking. Not really sure what to do about this.

I drive a 2015 Scion FR-S.
Tail Lights:

This is intermittent but seems to happen more during the hotter months, like right now. Lately it has been a daily issue, even when the car is shaded. It starts with the door locks, they don’t respond when pressing the handle to unlock. Putting the key next to the door handle solves this.

The car then won’t start because it doesn’t sense the key. Putting the key on the start button occasionally works, but rarely. If you sit there for a while it will magically work… sometimes it’s fifteen seconds, sometimes it’s several minutes.

When this issue is happening, remote start doesn’t even work. We’ve tried replacing the batteries and also switched to the spare fob, neither resolves the problem.

What could cause this? Is it just a heat issue, or is something failing?

Hi all, just chasing some advise. I was on my way to work this morning when all of a sudden the vehicle went into limp mode. I got it home, did the pedal dance to get the code stored, found code P1272. I have removed the SCV, which people are saying is a common cause. I tested resistance to be 2.6ohms which seems to be a bit above max resistance reading. Before I bite the bullet and to ensure I’m not firing up the parts cannon, what other checks are recommended or is that high resistance in the SCV enough to warrant replacement? Cheers

Honda odyssey 2022 exl. Passenger sliding door got backed into it while fully opened. Please see pics. Its working but looks like not in alignment. Thank you.

Hay everyone.
Here is my 2001 ram 1500 with the 5.9 magnum engine. I swapped the automatic transmission for a Manuel nv3500. Before the swap it ran perfect now it’s running poorly. I swapped out the crank position sensor for the Manuel one as the flywheel is different to the automatic flex plate.

The only codes I found are for the transmission not being there. Let me know if you need more information or have any idea what it could be.

Hi! So my car trembles a bit when I am in DRIVE but my foot is on the brake, at a stop sign or stop light. Does not happen when I am actively driving.
Trembles a few seconds then stops, does not do it everytime I drive, sometimes it does it the whole drive, every 10 seconds or so.
2018 nissan sentra

Changed my lower torque strut 7 months ago. Changed my transmission a year ago.
Is it my upper torque strut? engine mount? something else?
TYIA!

Could use some advice rq. My 2015 chevy (126k milage) recently showed a check engine light, did notice some more noise when accelerating and funny feeling when changing gears. I went to my mechanic today and he said a P0420 code popped ip and another one I didn't write down but there was mention of fluid. He just said he can't help and to take it to Chevy. So before I do that, any suggestions on what ti check beforehand or what concerns I should bring up to the dealership?

Driving back from the mechanics I did have the car stop on me as I was turning into my driveway. Had to turn it off and start it again. Any comment would be much appreciated

Hello, after replacing my intake manifold gaskets on my 2003 Nissan xterra I, put everything back together and started the truck. It had some difficulty started but eventually fired up and I heard a pinging/knocking sound, I turned it off immediately.
Took everything back apart and on my way back down I found a small chunk of metal in the upper intake, manifold. I sent a bore scope down into both the intake and spark plug holes of each cylinder and found metal debris in cylinder 5.

My question is should I pull the heads and try to get the metal out? Or should I let a professional try and see if the cylinder is toast?

I am in need of a new car and am unsure of what brand or model is the most reliable nowadays. I’d like to spend under $25,000 but that’s not a hard cap for the right deal and to ensure reliability. I’d like the car to be as “bullet proof” as possible so I can drive the car for 15+ years as long as I do proper maintenance. What new cars are the most reliable? I have heard many good things about Toyotas but with most of their engines having turbos, I worry that will cause reliability issues down the road.