Sound like a broken

arm control

2026 Toyota Corolla Cross.

No idea how it happened. Extremely careful with cleaning and wiper blade maintenance.

What would you guys do? It’s on the driver’s side. Hard to show more angles on camera.

Barely visible from the outside. Had to show it with light shining directly on it to make it visible for the camera.

Main question: would I make it worse trying to treat it myself or getting it treated?

How true is if I do an oil and filter change on my car transmission, can break it? I don’t know if they had made an oil change before.

Dodge Charger
2013
287719 Miles.

This is a new Daytona 3 ton jackstands, i noticed one of them at the weld has a break line not sure if its paint defect or actual weld defect. Any ideas?

When getting breaks and rotors changed, is it common practice to check the break fluid to make sure it’s good?

as you read in the title, my dad put 10w40 engine oil in the power steering fluid reservoir. i told him not to do it, but he didn’t listen and called me a non knowledgeable dumbass who doesn’t know anything about cars. i obviously know more than him, but whatever.

fast forward two minutes, and it started leaking the oil he had just put inside the reservoir. i told him it was leaking, and he said it was normal. 🤣
all the oil he put into the reservoir leaked out, and the reservoir was completely empty. the car then started making the squealing noise you normally hear when a car has no power steering fluid.

so now we have a car that’s leaking power steering fluid/oil and is basically undriveable.

my question is: was it the 10w40 he put in that caused the leak, or could it have been something else?

the car is a 2004/2005 ford focus 1.6.

i’ve already ordered the correct power steering fluid: wss-m2c204-a2.

i’ll take a picture of the leak if anyone needs to see it

This seems to have started after I got my oil change done. I know jeep fuel economy isn’t the best but it’s much worse than what it was before. I put fuel in this sucker on Sunday which brought it up to 3 quarters full now it’s at a half. A commute to and from work takes only 20km and it used about a quarter of my tank for it?? I can’t be paying $60 every 3 days to keep it above half 😬

I’m looking for some advice on how to handle an issue with a shop regarding a sub par repair on my 2021 Toyota Tundra.

I brought my truck in to have the cam tab gussets repaired due to an alignment shop bending g a couple of them. I was originally quoted ~$1300 for a full replacement, but after I dropped the truck off, the shop called to say they had the wrong parts. They suggested bending the existing bent tabs back (not all of them were bent) and back welding all of them for reinforcement instead. I authorized this modified work.

I paid ~$1,029 total: ~$800 for the welding/labor and ~$200 for an attempted alignment which they couldn't get the camber aligned stating that the driver side spindle was bent due to a prior accident.

A week later I took my truck to a different shop I have used before but is over an hour away for a second opinion. Their inspection revealed that the alignment tabs are still bent and not within spec, several tabs were melted or structurally damaged by the welding process, and the welding preparation/ lack of coating was poor, leaving significant exposed metal underneath.

The second shop confirmed that the original "repair" was ineffective and that the tabs still need to be replaced to restore function and structural integrity before they could rule out any other issue like the claimed bent spindle.

Sorry for the long back story but here are my questions, I feel that I paid for a service that was not performed correctly and, in some ways, left the truck in worse condition. I want to approach the first shop to request a refund, but I need guidance on how to go about this.

Yes I authorized the "bend and weld" method because the wrong parts were sent, do I have a case for a refund, or am I stuck because the work was "performed"?

How should I frame this conversation to be taken seriously without coming across as unreasonable?

Any advice on how to handle this would be appreciated. I have attached photos of the current state of the tabs so you can see.

Mechanic is trying to diagnose a strut related noise (noise began shortly after they installed new struts). I pointed out this strut bolt being off center and that it moves. That is, it changes position within the strut mount. I understand it rotates normally. What I’m talking about is positional play. Sometimes it’s off center (first photo) but then after a drive it’s closer to center again (second photo). Mechanic saying that’s normal but I wanted to verify that’s true?

When trying to diagnose this problem myself everything points to the strut mount but they’ve ruled it out and don’t think this nut movement is an issue.

(2012 Toyota Highlander, V6 AWD)

(Edited for clarity)

Looking for objective opinions from people who know Fords, especially Ranger/Everest owners and mechanics.
I have a Ford Ranger Wildtrak 2.0 Bi-Turbo 4x2 that I purchased in May 2024. It currently has around 19,000 km.
The truck recently had a radiator failure. Coolant leaked/sprayed around the front of the engine, including the accessory belt area. The vehicle then sat for roughly 2 months while waiting for repairs and parts.
After getting the truck back, I noticed that the crankshaft pulley/harmonic balancer (or at least what I believe is the crank pulley) now has noticeable surface rust on the front face.
My initial reaction was concern because the vehicle is relatively new and low mileage. Part of me wondered whether the pulley could have been swapped with an older used part while the vehicle was in the workshop.
On the other hand, I’ve also been told that:
coolant exposure can accelerate corrosion,
the pulley face is exposed steel,
and sitting idle for 2 months may actually promote surface rust more than regular use.
So I’m trying not to jump to conclusions.
My questions:
Is this amount/pattern of rust normal after a coolant leak and 2 months of sitting?
Does the pulley look like a relatively new part that developed surface rust, or does it look unusually old for a vehicle with only 19,000 km?
If a crank pulley/harmonic balancer had been replaced, what signs would you look for to verify that?
Has anyone here experienced a similar situation after a radiator failure?
I’m not accusing the dealership of anything. I’m just trying to understand whether what I’m seeing is normal corrosion or something worth investigating further.

I'm looking at a 2023 Honda Accord Hybrid with 105,000 miles. Maintenance history shows 10,000 mile oil changes for most of it with two 13,000 mile intervals. It's a pretty good price because it has high miles. I know the hybrids are easier on the engine. Should I consider it or run away?

2003 Corolla which calls for Toyota red or a compatible antifreeze. Mechanic drained and filled coolant with peak Japanese antifreeze, which now contains the dexcool ingredient 2-eha. It is supposedly not compatible with Japanese cars because it can degrade silicon seals. Prestone also has 2-eha, while zerex and Toyota coolant does not have it.

Haven’t seen too much discussion of this anywhere other than bob is the oil guy. Is this something to be concerned about? Mechanic just closed his doors after 45 years, so I would have to go elsewhere and pay for another coolant flush with zerex or Toyota oem.

Renault Megane 3 GT Coupé 2011 year, 2.0 CVT. (I think it's Renault Nissan engine) So basically we had an issue with a super cold and super warm weather car that does not launch from the first attempt. (Usually around 5th).

The O2 sensor was changed but this didn't help. The computer doesn't show any errors. And once the car is finally turned on, you cannot reproduce this for a long time again. Just recently mechanics changed the temperature sensor, and after that the car started to launch but immediately turn off as well (you can see on the video). It eventually turned on normally (like from 15th attempt).

But mechanics are saying that they have no idea what this can be. Because its super random they couldn't reproduce it on their site. And they said that they checked everything else manually and everything seems normal.

Any ideas what this might be? Thanks

Hey all,

Please can anyone offer any advice, if this is in the wrong place please feel free to point me in the right direction. I’m not much of a redditer.

So I took my car (Audi A3 40TFSIe Sportback S-Tronic (UK)) to the garage on the weekend complaining about a squeak.

They were unable to recreate the noise, and I have since discovered that it only happens when the oil temp is over 80°c.

They did, however, do a full inspection of the vehicle and ruled out the possibility of it being a heat shield, brakes, exhaust. They had no idea what the cause would be.

Today, I have managed to recreate it as in the video.

If anyone could give me any advice, please let me know.

2025 4runner trd offroad nonhybrid
Fox 2.5 Performance shocks with <10k miles blew out while doing some high speed whoops on an easy trail (Peters Mill Run in VA)

Wondering how/why they failed. Fox shocks appear to be designed for exactly this sort of high speed stuff, and I wasn't pushing it that hard for very long.

Pic attached. Note the shock fluid explosion marks on t*re. Suspect improper installation or geometry with stock springs and ride height.

Fox 2.0 coilovers front providing 1" of lift over factory
Fox 2.5 (failed) rear with factory springs and factory ride height
everything else stock

Facing strange issue in my car when i am trying to reverse right side light is blinking even if not giving the signal also headlights have stopped working, what could be the probable cause.

Taking a wild guess that my Encore draining coolant is due to the metal connected to a radiator hose (?) cracking and leave the hose flying around. We're in Texas so I'm sure the consistent heat might be to blame.

This looks beyond home repair, so will I kill the engine if I drive it 5 minutes to the shop or does it need a tow? Any idea what this will run me?

B

2000 Lincoln Navigator 5.4

It was brown in the photos, but I received a grey one

Yes. It came from a Ford dealership

I recently serviced my brakes it was 90 degrees I think likely made a mistake. I ask ai… ai tells me “replace the pads with new ones.” I should’ve just asked an actual mechanic the ai is clueless. Nothing is wrong with the pads they have little to no signs of wear and haven’t Been driven beyond 10k miles on them. The problem I notice is an occasional click when I’m at a full stop when I begin to accelerate

I believe it’s maybe pad shift or some sort of problem with the pads hardware being not new is this solvable with new hardware like clips to retain it better my car only supports clips? when I ask ai like google the ai it tells me I incorrectly installed the hardware except that advice goes on deaf ears because I show it a photo of a perfectly fine brake pad ai says the fine brake needs to be replaced does anyone understand or know if I am correct and it’s down to I might need new clips to retain it so it doesn’t make any noticeable click that will hold the brake pads better or is this a normal sound caused by the piston interacting with the pad anti rattle shim. Is this caused by an anti rattle shim from piston contacting the back of the pad called the anti rattle shims? My root cause analysis points towards that the conditions of the noise happening is
1 must have just came to a complete stop,
2 must be accelerating to hear the noise after releasing brakes and 3 the sound originates from rear passenger side and doesn’t persist in any way beyond what I described. Should I consider opening my lower guide pin so I can swing open my brakes to access my brake pads remove them both and remove the hardware clips wipe everything dry with a microfiber cloth and then lightly grease the back of the pads again and reseat the hardware and install the pads. Last photo is the driver side rear the one that wasn’t touched during the service.

2015 chevy trax 75k miles

Hi everyone, i am a marine tech looking for some input from heavy truck mechanics. Basically I am getting this old crane truck to use in the yard for basically scrap value. The crane works and I am pretty confident I can get it to run and drive (the brakes might be stuck but the cat 3208 engine was recently rebuilt and the tires hold air). How crazy would it be to get it road legal in ontario? I have absolutely no clue. Thoughts?

Also how do I tell if those are split rims or dayton wheels?