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BPCR3D kit, .458 bullet with #9 onion paper sized to .96 x 2.875 bumps it up to .462 for my martini henry.

Why not both?

So, I needed a new hand for my 1851 Navy; unfortunately, in Canada nothing is available - and nobody down south wanted to send any of their freedom up this way. This left me with one option, do it myself.

Here you can see: a link of chain, a drill bit, and piano wire. The other hand was just a little bit too short to properly index the cylinder on two of the chambers but this new one I was able to hand fit for a perfect lockup each time!

I’ve recently been lucky enough to pick up a Pedersoli Brown Bess that I wanted to share with you fellas.

Thus far I’ve only shot .732 ball which is a bit tight in a paper cartridge (using 80gr FFg with a sprinkle in the pan) but I was surprised how accurate it was for a smoothbore!
I think the next steps will be to try thinner brown paper, a smaller ball or cut some cotton patches and see how they go down.

Any advice or suggestions would be appreciated!

I was gifted this pistol by a relative who said they had no desire to look into the piece. I already have a collection of firearms but have never looked into cap and ball before, but that being said. If its free, its for me. Just trying to get help figuring out what I got because I see no caliber identifying marks. Just this ASM Black Power made in Italy stamp.

Copy of an old family photo. Any ID's on the pistol?

As an interesting aside, I also have a post war photo of this ancestor with a missing arm. Arm was lost in the civil war probably not long after this image was taken.

50 Maynard made from 50 Action Express brass.

Super undercharged at only 90gr of 2F (initially intended for use with my original M1809/39 Potsdam) but I’m honestly pretty happy with how this thing performed today. Sans the one time I put very little powder in the pan (which is why I flinched so bad on that first shot. I had just taken ten attempts to get that damn powder to ignite lol), it functioned reliably which is good enough for me. Even repeatedly hit the 50yd steel target.

I recently got a CVA single shot .45 cal pistol and cannot find anywhere to get all the stuff I need at one place. I found all I need except the black powder on midway USA but then I would have to pay a separate hazmat fee for the powder somewhere like powder valley where a pound of powder ends up going from $30 to $77 in fees. If anybody knows a good shop that ships or just a website that has real black powder and all the other stuff please let me know it would be greatly appreciated.

Update: Have found the rear of the cylinder is pretty beat up, going to take it to a gunsmith to figure out next steps.
Also, can I load Hornady XTP .454 45 acp projectiles in this thing and shoot them out of it? I have a box on hand I don't need for anything else

Hello all, I am no stranger to black powder guns, but this is my first cap and ball revolver, and had a few questions. This was given to me for free by a neighbor, his dad fired it a few times when he was a kid, that's all he knows. Its a Pietta Remington 1858 in 44 cal. Its not in great condition finish wise, but is mechanically sound.
First question: In half cock, it only lets me spin the cylinder one click, it does not spin freely. Is that normal?
Second question: I am using pyrodex P, is 20-25 grains a normal powder charge to use? I find a lot of conflicting info online

Thanks in advance

Long time gun owner, first time poster here. Looking for some advice from people who know these better than I do.

I have two unopened black powder kits that have been in storage untouched for decades:

Kit 1 — Thompson Center Hawken .50 Cal Rifle Kit

Came to me as a hand me down. Never opened, original box still sealed. The manual inside is dated 1981 so it was likely purchased around that time, though I can't confirm the exact purchase date.

Kit 2 — CVA Kentucky Pistol Kit, Model KA709, .45 Cal

Also never opened and still in original packaging.

Questions for the community on both:

What is the collector value on these kits?

Build them and shoot them, or leave them sealed?

For those who have built either — how long did each take and what skill level is required? Would I find more joy doing it with a kid or is this more like adult legos?

Is the T/C Hawken .50 cal a practical elk rifle for western hunting at reasonable muzzleloader ranges?

Thanks in advance.

I am in the VERY early thought stages of maybe...possibly...someday building out a custom black powder muzzle loading rifle. I know there are kits and parts a plenty out there to make most anything, but I am wanting to make something different. I saw a gun Jesus video talking about the accuracy of Whitworth polygonal rifling and thought that would be different. Is there any company out there that can make a barrel for the .451 Whitworth bullet? I know Pedersoli makes whole rifles, and they can be found on gun broker starting at $2000 used. But I want to build an octagon barrel rifle. So is there any company that can make a barrel to serve as the foundation of my "different" build?

This site claims to have black powder in stock and appears to clone the official GOEX products site (except with the option to buy). There are several red flags:

1. Payment with ONLY Zelle and cryptocurrency (15% off)
2. If you place an order, you get a scammy looking email that says that Zelle is "not available" and directs you to a fake cashapp site (the domain is not cashapp).
3. The follow up email is from a gmail
4. I thought that the new GOEX plant was not online yet.

Everything points to this being a scam. To clarify - I did not send them money.

Caveat emptor

Had a chance to test out and 1861 Navy build I put together from an antique 1851 Navy frame manufactured in 1855 using Uberti reproduction parts from a 1972 gun. Keeping the frame untouched meant every single part had to be hand fitted the cylinder and barrel shimmed and lock work completely redone. But I have to say it was completely worth it and the antique is spot on at 75 yds using 25 grains of 3F powder and a 380 ball. I was able to get in 24 shots and the revolver stayed incredibly clean and functional.

So now I'm starting to question.... Should I strip the blueing off the new parts and make a patina like the antique frame, or leave it as is?

Found this at the thrift store today. It has the roman numeral for 1570 on the barrel. I'm assuming it's a repro/replica but still appears to be hand made.

Waited 20 weeks for my Woodman Arms Patriot G3, 50 cal ML to come in but the frustration of trying to find BH209 is something I really don’t want to do when I’m out. They recommend using BH209 or H4198. I want to sell it and was looking for a trusted forum or website to sell it on. It’s brand new in the box, never fired.